View Single Post
Old 07-25-2004, 08:37 PM   #1
AF Enthusiast
CamaroSSBoy346's Avatar
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Richmond, Virginia
Posts: 3,661
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Send a message via AIM to CamaroSSBoy346
Exclamation HOW TO: Make Subframe Connectors

So i was sitting in my garage wondering what i could do to my Mustang, then i started flipping pages in my Muscle Mustang And Fast Ford Magazine when i saw an add for SubFrame Connectors. I figured i could try to build them.

Subframe Connectors will work with just about every rear wheel drive car, as long as it doesnt have a ladder style frame. This will work on Mustangs, Camaro's, Datsun's, as long as its a uni-body with a front and rear subframe.

The point of Subframe Connectors are to add more strength to the chassis, to avoid it from twisting in dragracing and even drifting.

So here the how-to...

Start out with sprue from a tree. It should be long, straight and smooth.

It also helps to have one of these baby's around. Makes life a shit load easier. I guess 200 grit sand paper would work too.

Start out by sanding it so it will come out like a square, so start of on 1 side, the keep flipping it over.

By countinously flipping it over it should start to make a square pipe

If you used a power sande, their will be tiny of melted pieces scattered among the bar. Sand on a 200 grit paper to remove it. BTW If you use the power sander, be careful where you hold it, the plastic becomes VERY hot. I learned the hard way.

When you finished this is what it should look like.

After it has been smoothed out cut the end to be shaped like a wedge, and sand that portion smooth. Also sand the ends so they will fit snugly in the subframes.

Once is been smoothed, you gotta make some bolt holes. All my pin vice bits broke, so i was left to do this the ghetto way.

The cap of this brand superglue has an extremely sharp tip. Pierce the plastic with the needle 4 times. 2 at each end.

Once the needle holes are made, widen it with your knife

Then notch out the rear subframe so the subframe connecter will fit in. The near frame rail has been notched and the far one hasnt.

heres the finished project.

NOTE: The following subframe's have been built for the AMT 1988 Mustang GT. The front subframe is virtually flat, that is why i had to put that angled cut on the end. You may not have to do that for other kits. If the front subframe is NOT flat, skip the angled cut, and do a notch cut on the front-like the back.
2002 F150 SuperCab FX4 6" Fabtech, 3" BL, Detroit locker, Edge tuned, Yukon 4.56s, 37" Nittos, Harley lights, Depo fogs, 8K HIDs, Powerstop brakes
1992 Lincoln Mark VII LSC 302 H.O, A9L ECU swap, 65mm TB, 73mm Granetelli MAF, FRPP 30lb injectors, Walbro 255, MSD ignition, Powerdyne BD11 supercharger, Efans, T-5 swap w/ FRPP flywheel, Ram HDX clutch and adjustable Steeda clutch quadrant, 4.10 gears, Nitto NT555R radials
2000 OBS Tahoe Z71 6k HIDs, 33" Goodyears. 280k mile daily beater

Last edited by CamaroSSBoy346; 07-25-2004 at 09:54 PM.
CamaroSSBoy346 is offline   Reply With Quote