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people do it both ways...i believe that you had too but i also knwo there are people who havent. sorry to burst your bubble...
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Meh, whatever... If you ever do a TT conversion you will find out... And you didn't burst my bubble...
So after this bit of mis-information I decided to go look at the first post of this thread and "critique".
#1. Before you do ANYTHING to the car, disconnect and remove the battery. Once you jack the car up, place the car on solid jackstands in the correct locations (see service manual for locations).
#2. Do not install your intercooler plumbing and A/C condenser before installing the engine/transmission. The risk of damage to them is very great while lowering the engine/tranny unit back into place.
#3. Change out as much of the rubber hoses that are a total pain in the A$$ when the engine is in place BEFORE you install it. If you are keeping EGR, replace it with new, and clean the connecting pipes out thoroughly. Replace the PCV's. All of this maintenance is simple with the motor on the stand.
#4. You are going to need the OEM recirc valves or aftermarket BOV's. These were not on the list. The turbos absolutely have to have these.
#5. If you replace the engine mounts, replace the transmission mount.
#6. Drain the oil out of the transmission BEFORE unbolting it from the engine. Unless you like having a couple of quarts of oil on you, on the floor, and all around you. Ignore this point if you love the smell of oilsorb clay and ATF or gear lube, or have an excess amount of shop rags you need to use.
#7. Before you install the new motor, disconnect the steering shaft at the u-joint. The driver's side turbo will thank you.
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i heard a while back that the N/A transmission wasn't a good idea if you plan on making some decent power with the TT engine, but Z specialist shops (like Z1 motorsports) say they have never seen anything that would confirm that the N/A transmission is weaker and they do indeed use the N/A transmission when doing a swap.
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That is because they are the same unit except for the bellhousing size and the output shaft diameter. All of the internal are exactly the same.
That should do it for now. Not that I am trying to "burst your bubble"
, but I HATE mis-information, especially the kind that could get somebody hurt...