BNaylor....that is a great guide for the tensioner; I would like to add to it though if that is permissable. Not only should you either replace the elbows that feed the water through or replace just the O-rings, but you also need to replace the O-rings on the heater hose fittings. They are compressed inside those fittings and do get a little crush syndrome going on after extended amount of time. When you replace the fittings or rings it is not necessary to lube the fittings going back in. They will slide right into the housing. There are three 15mm bolts that the alternator uses for attachments as well as three 15mm bolts for the tensioner. Two of the tensioner's bolts are right in front by the pulley and the third is toward the firewall on the far left side of the tensioner. Another tip that I found that makes it easier is if you remove the two 10mm nuts holding the coolant overflow tank on top of the strut tower and lift the tank up and out of the way. You don't need to disconnect any hoses for it to clear out of your way, that will leave the belt area wide open. The two heater hose fitting are held onto the tensioner housing by 10mm bolts through a small flange. I did not need to pry on any of these items they pulled clear with a small amount of effort. The fat elbow goes in the opening closest to the engine, the other elbow that is equal size on either end goes in the outboard hole. When you place the new unit in place, start a bolt in the center hole and start the threads, while doing this line up the elbows in the respective holes. When all is lined up push the fitting into the holes and start the other two bolts. Tighten in a cross pattern and the housing is secure. When you replace the belt, it is best to start at the crank pulley and feed it around the Air Cond. Compressor and up and over the water pump. Once you relieve tension on the tensioner, the last pulley to slip the belt over should be the alternator, it all goes to together easy that way. Now just replace the coolant tank, fill her up with coolant and test her out. Take the time and get the O-rings and/or new fittings...it would truly suck to do all that and leave a worn 10 cent O-ring in there only to have it seep coolant all over your nice work. Going by the above mentioned guide I completed the job first time in 35 minutes, piece of cake. Thanks BN,
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