The R Bearing is on.
Next comes the 3rd Gear, its Needle Bearings, the 3rd Gear synchronizer, then the Synchronizer Sleeve and Hub Assembly.
As you can see from the photo of my workbench right now, I have kept the Shaft's
components on a rope in order as they came off the Shafts.
I wiped the Input Shaft off with a clean rag and put a few drops of Motor Oil on the section where the 3rd Gear
Needle Bearings go and slid the Needle Bearings over the slot.
Then I gently slid the 3rd Gear over the bearings.
I took the new Synchronizer Ring out of the box (they are each of a different diameter) and compared
the new one with the old one.
I noticed that they are not exactly identical ! Same everywhere except for the tiny teeth shown in the photos.
I would hope this slight difference is not important.....
Here is a side view - see the little teeth on the old one - not on the new ring.
I am contacting the E-Bay seller and asking about the anomaly...
I put some motor oil on the 3rd Gear sloped ring area and slid the new ring on.
Next comes the High Speed Sleeve and Hub Assembly.
Here is where
I slowed way down and
studied this particular part and compared it
with the previous photographs.
This part has two different sides ! It is not symmetrical.....
Plus, I don't have the
Special Tool" the manual calls for to push it on the Input Shaft....
Time to
Adapt, Improvise....Overcome!
Notice from some previous photos that the "Hub" has a longer central flange and a
shorter one.
Here are some photos from the Disassembly.
If you study it closely, you will notice that the shorter flange was on top away from
the 3rd Gear and that the Sleeve's flat side was also away from the 3rd Gear.
So...I will push the unit onto the Input Shaft with the Longer Hub Flange toward the 3rd Gear and the Sleeve's flat side away from the 3rd Gear.
This picture shows the flange is toward the 3rd Gear (Sleeve removed to show the Hub).
So - I reassembled the
High Speed Hub & Sleeve Assembly (HSH&SA) as per the above photo's "directionality"
and
somewhat gently "Tapped" it onto the Input Shaft's Splines with my trusty, rusty Ball Pien Hammer and a piece of
ABS water pipe coupler to push on the Hub without disturbing the Sleeve.
Well...that came to a rather quick end. As the HSH&SA goes on, it gets progressively
harder and harder to move it.
So I had to find another "Special Tool"... My Garage turned up a 1.25 inch electrical
conduit pipe which I cut to 5.5 inches long and flattened one end with a grinder
and file.
Using this pipe, I was able to pound the HSH&SA down until the Circlip slot was available.
Took quite a bit of pounding - the HSH&SA goes down the splines with some difficulty.
This "Special Tool" business is killing me (already spent way too
much money on Special Tools to do this job ! Actually - I have !)
A six inch piece of 1 inch water pipe would probably do the job also - don't have one...
NOTE !
As the High Speed Sleeve and Hub Assembly is going down the splines, at some point you have to
rotate the Brass Synchronizer Ring up into the High Speed Sleeve and Hub Assembly where those "Slots"
in the synchronizer fit the Keys in the Sleeve, (Photo above) and
hold it there with your hand while
tapping the High Speed Sleeve and Hub Assembly downward -
or else you'll damage the Brass Sync ring !
Got that ?! Manual - page 7A - 24 top of page.
Then Keep tapping until the High Speed Sleeve and Hub Assembly is seated.
"Tap" harder and harder as the Hub goes down the Splines - more friction.
It is seated when the "Circlip" slot is uncovered and the Circlip can be inserted.
I could have used the Gear Puller in reverse, but my threaded rod wasn't long enough.
Warning -
do not pick up the Input Shaft by holding onto the HSH&SA....
It will come apart throwing the 3 "Keys" all over the place !
I speak from experience...I spent 30 minutes trying to find one of the "Keys" on
my workbench area floor.
You don't want to do that !
The 3rd Gear must rotate freely when done.... Whew !
"....Lot of 'splainin', Loocy!" (remember Rickie Ricardo - I Love Lucy?)
The Circlip was put back on and the 4th Gear, its Needle Bearings (oiled)
and the 4th Gear synchronizer were put in place.
The L Ball Bearing Race (6206) was placed on the Shaft and was
pulled on with
the Gear and Bearing Puller using some 30 inch 3/8 inch threaded rod in order to
get the length required.
The 5th Gear Spacer was pulled on in the same manner with the Gear & Bearing Puller. No problem.
The Countershaft is next....
DoctorBill