After replacing the cam shaft sync in my 2004 freestar and searching on the internet for all different ways to do it. I decided I would post here just in case someone runs into the same situation.
the fact is most people will tell you, you must have cycl 1 at TDC before doing anything. Obviously those people do not own a 2004 freestar as good luck getting to it. second they will tell you to use the tool, well that is great if you can get to TDC which i couldn't. Finally i ventured out to the garage bond and determined to get this thing fixed. I had the dreaded squeal and then occassionally it would die on me. order the new part on line, paid overnight shipping total was 80 bucks, and it did included the alignment tool (which i never used).
First thing i did was disconnect the battery, drained the radiator (broke the plug by the way) and then disconnected the serp belt. I then began to disconnect the power steering pump as it would be in the way once you get the sync partialy out due to the great desgin of this engine. removing the power steering pump was difficult as two of the bolts (4 total) are behind the pump and you can not see them. Eventually i figured out a 10mm wrench one that actually ratchets was perfect but still took forever. Then it was on to disconnecting two coolant hoses in the way (hence the need to drain the radiator). One of the bolts is in front of the powersteering pump (close to the sync sensor) the other is directly behind the power steering pump back right bolt (hence removing the ps pump first). I had a difficult time getting the front hard coolant pipe out of its location, but a block of wood and a pry bar assisted and eventually got it.
Now it was on to the sensor and sync. before doing anything i marked the body of the sensor, it is hard to see where the old body meets the engine but you will see a bolt holding a washer, and the washer is holding the sync in place. I marked it so when i put the new one in it would be in the same place. i used the little hole on the front of the body as my place to mark it. then i removed the actual sensor (2 small bolts either 5 or 5.5 mm). sensor came of easy and now i could see inside the sync and there is a little tab in there that circles around which is what the sensor reads, have seen it called a blade, finger. etc. I marked the exact location of where that was sitting (mark it good) and finally i took off the bolt holding the sync.
To my surprise the sync did not take a lot of effort getting loose i simply gave it a little tug, however, there is a rod at the end of the sync, which does not come with the new one. and it is impossible to get the whole unit out because of the angle and the length of the sync with the rod it hits the underside of the body. I put a vice grip on the rod, so it would not fall into the engine and be lost and used another set of pliers to disconnect it from the sync. left the rod there, threw away the old sync. By the way my gears looked fine, it was inside the body that i could feel it grabbing and making noise, must be a bushing or something inside. I then reconnected the old rod to the new sync and lined up the body of the new sync with my mark and then held the tab in the correct place (see note below) and it slipped right in. Button everything up in reverse, curse ford for putting those bolts what in the back and you are good to go
Note on the tab, although i marked mine before pulling it out it shifted as soon as i started pulling out, probably about 1/8 of a turn. When i put the new one in, i shifted the new one 1/8 to match and when i dropped it in, if fell right into place of where my mark would have been on the old one. lucky maybe, but works, in face seem to have more HP now.
I was frustrated with the right way to do and no one giving me a work around which is why i posted here, just hope this helps someone. by the way i am not a mechanic, rather a sales person who is going through money issues and didn't want to pay to have the work done. Good luck message me with any question.