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Old 02-26-2005, 09:58 PM   #1
-Sk8er6811-
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Tutorial: How to make a "fiberglass" sub case

As I was building my blazer I knew I needed a huge ass sound system, so I figured I wold make a tutorial while I went. Ok here we go...

First you will need some materials, most you can find around your house. You will need...
1. Scissors
2. Baking clay (scupley magic works good, preferably blue, will explain later)
3. Subs/tvs or what ever you want to put into the system
4. X-Acto knife
5. Cardboard from a model box so it is relatively thin
6. Krazy glue
7. some type of wire, I used a braided one so the insulation didn’t melt
8. Wire cutters
9. Bondo Glazing Putty

Step 1: For this truck I had to tuck the wheels to get the height I was looking for, so I had to build a rough frame from some styrene and cardboard.


Step 2: trace out a peace that will cap the whole area you want to put the system, in this case it was the whole trunk space. After you have it traced onto cardboard, use your scissors and cut it out. The next part is to trace a piece out, where you don’t want the subs to go, in this case I could trace the floor area due to the vertical side walls I'm using.



Step 3: Trace the peace you just made onto the "cap" you made before and cut off the edges.


Step 4: After you have done that make a piece that will cover the sides, in this case the vertical walls.
Tip: Once the pieces are done a good idea to help get the subs out is to poke holes where the subs will go, so it is easy to remove the subs we are going to put in it. Now glue the two pieces together in a "L" shape.




Step 5: This is where you will use the wire and wire cutters. Take the wire and make "frame" for a sub to sit in, so when we go to flush mount the subs it will give you something to work off of. After they are made, cut and glue them where you want the subs to go.





Step 6: This is where you would add whatever else you would like to add, because adding anything after the next step will be harder to get a smooth transition. I opted to build boxes for 2 tvs and a rough frame for some reverse mount to sit on.

Step 7: This is the fun part, we can use clay! Though this is a fun part, it is a very important part of the final outcome. Apply the clay and smooth everything together, don't leave any cardboard exposed, except where the pieces mount. By doing this it will give the paint a continuous look because it was paint on the same medium, in this case clay.




Here is a shot after i test fitted all the pieces:


Step 8: After all the clay work is done, it is time to bake the pieces. If you used any plastic for the frame remove it at this point, it will either shrink or melt, therefore deforming the sub case. Make sure you read the package of clay for baking instructions. For Sculpey Magic I baked it 15 minutes for every 1/8th of an inch, but different clays will vary in baking time. Make sure you go by what they say, so it doesn’t burn up, and you’ll have to start from scratch.
Note: Paper/Cardboard will start to burn at 375 degrees Fahrenheit this is why Sculpey is a good way to go.

Step 9: After you have baked it you have 1 of 2 options. You can sand out low spots in the clay (blue clay shows low spots extremely well when sanded), or you can putty and sand down. I did both so I knew where to putty.

Step 10: After the putty has dried (if you opted to) sand smooth and primer to fill in any pores in the cardboard if any came through during sanding. Then paint the color you want. If you are flocking it you
don’t have to primer it, just paint it the color you are going to flock it.



Hope this has helped you guys, and motivate people to build some crazy unique systems.
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