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Originally Posted by LSCRX
I did some research befor i built my car. Like you, i was looking into turbo. I decided to go ls because i want to build an all motor car, but back to you. Since your dad has a machine shop it should be pretty damn easy to do. Take the CRV block, install the b18 crank, rods, and pistons on stock parts you should be able to boost about 20psi. The b18 has a shotrer stroke so it revs faster and higher than the stokc b20. Also if you use tha b16a head it has a lower c/r that the b20 head so you can squeez a little more boost out of it. Ive heard the CRV-TECH is kinda of a tricky swap. You have to run oil lines and do some machine work to the block. As far as cams, crower.com has some cams thats for turbo apps.
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First off, it's spelled CR-Vtec.....NOT CRV-TECH. Remember, VTECH = A company that makes phones, Vtec = Variable Valve Timing Electronic Lift Control, a technology Honda incorporates into many of their Motors. There is a difference there. Remember, It's VTEC....NOT VTECH!!
Okay, secondly, When you put a Vtec head on the B20 Block, there isn't a lot of piston to vavle clearence. The Vtec heads have larger 33mm Intake valves vs the B20's 31 mm vavles. When Dyno tuning, contact will occur between the pistons and vavles if the cam is advanced much more than 4 degree's. It's adviceable to not advance the timing of the Intake Cam at all. Also, with the B20's, the B20B (97-98 CRV) is the low compression one (8.8:1). The B20Z (99-01 CRV) has a much higher c/r (I've seen both 9.6:1 for the JDM SMX and 10.2:1 for the 99+CRV listed). I won't mention anything else, as boosted331 covered some other problems. Also, with cams, if you run larger lift and duration aftermark cams on a CR-Vtec, this piston's vavle pockets should be modified and the piston to vavle clearence checked before the head is final and attached onto the block. Now, as for boosting a CR-Vtec, the B20 sleeves have been know to crack under the high compression caused by boost. If you think you are going to run 20psi on stock B20 sleeves, you are going to have nasty cracks and a messed up block. Now re-sleeve it and close the deck, and your good to go with that. But to say change out pistons, rods, crank, and you can get 20psi is nuts. There is NO WAY IN HELL the B20 sleeves will hold up under 20psi of boost...period. The LS block can handle more boost stock than the CRV block (the LS can handle 12psi on stock internals, more than the other motors, where 8psi is usually the limit). Even then, NO HONDA BLOCK can handle 20psi stock, end of story. Even with the pistons and rods swapped out. If you want to run 20psi, you have to re-sleeve the block and/or close the deck. Running 20psi without doing that is pure engine suicide, especially where the sleeve are concerned. You'll have one mess of a motor by the time you are done, and will be having to spend a hell of a lot more money than doing it right to begin with.