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Originally Posted by Mr Plumb
My only question that got me thinking, shouldn't you clear, polish then apply decals then clear over them again? Doesn't tat eliminate silvering?
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Like Steve says, decals need to be applied to a gloss surface. If the paint is sufficiently smooth/glossy, go ahead and apply the decals. If not then a couple layers of clear can be applied first to make that gloss surface.
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Originally Posted by thijs37
i would like to make a small addition
Remove the mold lines with at least grid 600 or 800 and from that point on smoothen these area's by doubling the grid number! so from 600 you go on to 1200 and then on to 2000 or 2500...after that point sanded areas are smooth enough to prime and paint
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You can do this if you want- but if you're using a good filling primer (such as Tamiya grey/white, or Mr Surfacer, or just about any automotive product) it isn't necessary. When preparing a plastic body for primer, I will generally use 400 or 600, and occasionally 320 if a lot of correction is required. But I don't use anything finer than 600, and spraying primer over a surface sanded only with 400 would be perfectly fine. Making a perfect smooth surface for paint is the job of the primer- let it do its job. Spraying primer on a slightly roughened plastic surface helps the primer bond to the plastic.