Originally Posted by MPWR
1- No. Inspect the body and sand off mold lines and any other imperfections. Lightly sanding all surfaces will help the primer (and therefore paint) adhere. Once the body is inspected/corrected/sanded, wash it with water and dish soap. Let it dry, and it is ready for primer.
2- Primer should be sanded as necessary. In truth it is the make or break step in painting- the step that takes the most time and effort. I typically will spray 3-6 sessions of primer over the course of several days, sanding with fine paper in between. When priming is done, the body is smooth, consistent, and without flaws. If the primer is right, painting is easy- almost like an afterthought. If primer is not done right, there's nothing you can do with paint, clearcoat, or decals to correct it.
3- No. The paint does not need to be sanded or polished unless there is a flaw that needs to be corrected (like a piece of debris has got caught in the paint). If this happens, gently sand out the debris, then apply more paint. Paint should be sprayed on in many light coats instead of one or two heavy wet coats. I typically spray 4-8 coats, leaving an hour or two to dry and inspect in between spraying. Once the paint is fully opaque, you're done with paint. Applying more won't give you any more depth. If you are spraying a metallic or pearl color, the last coat should be a light, even mist coat, and it must not be sanded.
3.5- Give it a day or so, then decal it. Give it another day, and then start clear coating. Do the clear coat just like painting (above). It is critical if using lacquer clear that the first several layers be fine, light mistcoats. Be slow and patient, or you may dissolve the paint and decals under it. (I usually spray 6-10 coats, an hour or two or more in between).
4- Let it dry a week, then polish it with Tamiya compounds and a soft cloth. Once you're done and happy with it, carnuba wax is a great option.
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