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Old 10-07-2012, 10:19 AM   #4
CheeseHead1
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Re: 2000 Ford Windstar - no heat - actuator

sitiakab, thanks for the great procedure and instructions above!

I just did this remove/replace on our 2002 Ford Windstar LX 3.8L. All of the instructions above were accurate for my vehicle, including fastener sizes. Here's some additional comments below.

I had read in another post someone recommended setting the temperature controls to cold before starting the remove/replace procedure. Maybe this helps with the alignment process once you insert the new piece. I did this, don't know if it actually helped - as the vehicle was blowing cold in front no matter what the temperature was selected before I started the job.

I don't recall ever hearing a clicking sound when mine failed. I just started getting no heat in front and hearing a quiet rhythmic thumping sound. The thumps were about one per second, every 5th or 6th thump would be slightly louder. So something like: thump thump thump thump THUMP thump thump thump thump thump THUMP.

I bought the replacement part at a local Auto Zone for $36, they actually had one in stock.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sitiakab View Post
+ Remove the plastic shroud from the very bottom area. This will be removed with the hinged storage bin intact. Mine had four small screws with plastic plugs, with stripped threads, so I just pried the screws and plugs out together with a small screwdriver. Mine had a small auxiliary electrical outlet which was easily unplugged. Set the shroud outside out of the way.
On the 2002 LX, you probably don't need to remove this (unless you drop a bolt). One of the bolts that holds the actuator slipped out of my fingers, and so I did need to remove mine to look for the bolt.

Also, the plastic screws in the plugs probably are not stripped. It looked to me like they only make contact when the plug is being squeezed. So if you pull back slightly on the plastic, it will compress the two prongs of the plug, then you can back the screw out slightly, then you can pop out the plug.

I was unable to disconnect the electrical outlet. But was able to slide the shroud back far enough to get access and visibility that I needed to look for the bolt.

It turned out the bolt had slipped out of my fingers and wedged itself next to the actuator. The threads were pointing down and I was able to see the bolt from the bottom, after removing the bottom plasttic shroud. Then I was able to push the bolt up a little and it fell, then I was able to retrieve it.

Quote:
Remove the radio using a pair of the special clip hooks.
I definitely recommend the special clip hooks. Insert them about 1 inch and angle a tiny bit towards the outside of the radio (so the handles you are hold are actually angling a tiny bit toward each other). You should feel them click into position inside the radio. Then push the two handles apart with firm steady pressure, at the same time pulling toward you slightly. The radio should release and slide toward you. When you have it out, practice the same motion and you can see the small release movement on the left and right side of the radio.

Quote:
I think one of the key tools for this job is a very long ¼” ratchet extension of at least 12” in length.
For the top-left bolt I I used a 1/4" drive, 1/4" u-joint socket, and two extensions (probably 9" put together). It was easy to see but you have to get on it at an angle, the radio bracket is in the way. I was turning the rachet a little inside the console.

For the bottom-left bolt I used a long 12" extension, rachet was outside the console. This one you can get to straight on.

For the right-side bolt it was the hardest to see and access. I think you could get to it straight on, but when you had the socket and extension in there, you couldn't see the bolt any more. I think I used the 1/4" drive, 9" extension and turned the rachet inside the console. That's the one I dropped.

Quote:
+ You will need to make sure the male “D” shaft on the new actuator is in the correct position so it will slide into the “D” shaped female opening before you try to install it. Mine was not. In order to get the shaft into the proper position, I temporarily reconnected the battery and turned the ignition key to on (no need to start engine). I connected the new actuator to the wiring harness, and held the unit in my hand. When I slid the heat control slider back and forth between hot and cold, I was able to see the male shaft slowly rotate. I put the control slider into the cold position; made sure the shaft rotated and then stopped, and then turned the key off.
The area inside the console was cramped and there was not much extra length on the wiring to the actuator. I was unable to twist the actuator with the wiring connected. So I had to first put the actuator in the hole with the male shaft D-shaped end at the top and facing me. Twist the wire to connect it to the new actuator. Rotate the male shaft as described above to align, using key in ignition and heat control slider to cold. Use the old actuator as a guide, place the old one in the same orientation as a reference so you can see where the D shaped end should be. 4 o'clock was correct for me in that orientation (shaft at the top and pointing toward me so I could see it).

Then unplug. Remove actuator from the console hole. Then slide the actuator back into the console hole, now pointing in the opposite direction and aligned so you can re-install it. Reconnect the plug.

I got the bottom-left bolt started first, both because it was the easiest to access and also because the top-right is supported by a post. So then the actuator was fairly secure for me to work on inserting the other two bolts - which were both more challenging as outlined above.

Having a small flashlight was a big help during this project. Auto Zone sells a nice one with 3 LEDs, it takes 3 AAA batteries and is around $6.

Looking at this uTube video was also very helpful to me before trying this project:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2tN2nZjjw_M
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