Here is a list of problems I have compiled. Please feel free to add to the list or correct my list.
Problem #1 brakes:
I believe the problem is with the caliper. It has two large pistons and applies a lot more force to the brake pads and rotors. I found that replacing the rotors with Bendex suv rotors will help extend the life of the rotor. The Bendex pads last forever, I've had the same pads and rotors for over 45K on my YJ running 33 inch tires. Try the Bendex
Problem #2 recalls:
Hey, guess what? You can check for recalls and stuff on the Jeep website:
http://www.jeep.com/webselfservice/...rm%28%27R%27%29
You enter the last 8 digits of your VIN and it will tell you if the work has been performed.
Problem #3 Death Wobble:
shake uncontrollably while hitting bumps!
http://www.kevinsjeepparts.com/techa...athwobble.html
Problem #4 crank but won't start
check engine light does not come on , starts after check engine light comes on .. most likely computer chip, or CPS
your problem is not the Camshaft Position sensor, if it was the camshaft Position Sensor, it wouldn't crank at all. but it could be the Crankshaft Position Sensor(CPS).
PCM - PowerTrain Control Module (aka: ECU, ECM) - Computer
CPS - CrankShaft Position Sensor
- one way to determine a bad CPS, is when the CHECK ENGINE light DOES NOT come on, pull one of the wires off of a plug and hold it close to something metal (bolt) and have someone crank the engine while you look for spark - NO SPARK, Also check to see if the fuel Pump is kicking on, take gas cap off, Place you ear next to the filler neck, have someone turn the key to the ON position and listen closely for the fuel pump to kick on (whirring sound).
NO FUEL PUMP and NO SPARK = Bad CPS, it could also be the PCM but like I mentioned about most likely the CPS they are prone to go bad causing these and numerous other problems. If you would like the test for the CPS email me.
The PCM is located in the Engine Compartment on the Passenger Side firewall (behind the Coolant reserve bottle - on 5.2L/5.9L engines, not sure about 4.0L).
the CPS - on 4.0L is located on the driver side of the Transmission Bellhousing. On 5.2L/5.9L it is located on the Passenger Side Engine block right behind the right Exhaust manifold.
Problem #5 fuel pump/regulator
Sounds like either the Ignition Coil and/or Fuel Pump is overheating and shutting down (usually takes 10-15 minutes before will allow to restart). Next time it happens Check to see if the Fuel Pump is kicking on when you turn the key to the ON Position. It will be hard to hear, I can barely hear mine, I have to have the cap off and hold my ear against the filler hole and have someone turn the key to the ON position. If the Fuel Pump is coming on, then check for spark. these are known to OVERHEAT and SHUTDOWN, I had my Ignition Coil overheat when I had a bad wire which was arcing real bad and I was f&*kin around in the snow and it shutdown on me. replaced the ignition coil 3 times before I found the bad wire, which I already knew about but didn't think that would cause the problem.
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Sounds like the fuel pressure regulator maybe going bad and gas is returning to tank. When you try to start it has to reprime the fuel line and fuel rail before it starts. try turning the key on and wait 30-45 seconds then try starting. If it starts then the fuel pressure is leaking.
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I don't thinks it's a fuel problem but check this, turn the key to the ON position and and wait like 5 seconds, then do it again (this will prime the fuel lines) then try to start the jeep if it still doesn't start then it's not a fuel problem.
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HAVE YOU CHECKED THE FUEL PUMP PRESSURE WITH A GAUGE. WHEN MINE WENT OUT YOU COULD DRIVE ALL YOU WANTED BUT TRY TO PUT IN PASSING GEAR COMPLETE BOG OUT, LIFT OFF BACK TO NORMAL JUST A THOUGHT DALE
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If it is CamShaft position Sensor (under the distributor cap) this has a magnet that gets dislodged and sometimes causes this problem it won't start at all.
Problem #6 crankshaft sensor
symptoms:
When you are driving it will suddenly lose power like it is not getting fuel when you press the gas pedal. It will spit and sputter a bit and then run again. Sometimes it works fine and other times it runs horrible, or car will not start sometimes.
If you're replacing one and there isn't a piece of paper on end of replacement then no adjustment or gap needed. If there is a piece of paper on the end, don't remove it unless directions tell you to. It will come off when you start jeep.
well, I took the bull by the tail and faced the situation, but first I had to be smarter than the CPS,
I tied a long string to the disconnected cannon plug , in the engine compartment ,used a long extension , with a universal swivel attachment for the socket on a ratchet , removed the CPS bolt, tied another string on the old CPS end along with the new cannon plug
and pulled it thru over the bell housing into the engine compartment , otherwise it would have been very difficult to install any other way ...and glad thats over
Problem#7 – won't accelerate
I have a 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee that loses power after being driven a couple hours...It continues to run but, it doesn't accelerate when given gas. If I turn it off for 5 to 10 minutes..... it will start and drive as normal. While looking at the message board it appears that the tps throttle position sensor or the crankshaft sensor could be the problem. Where are these sensors located? I changed the TPS and it solved my problem it is on the left side of the throttle body under the air box, real simple to change.
Problem #8 Not shifting gears
Could be a governor valve sticking, Transmission output sensor, maybe a TPS or a front band adjustment, TV cable
O/D light comes on when starting car won't shift – computer problem
won't shift out low gear - ?
TV Cable—is pedal getting easier to push?
Governor transducer and solenoid
intermittently- transmission output sensor
Problem#9- TPS
After a few hours on the turnpike it would buck and kick and I could not drive any faster then 55 mph.
The TPS is located on the throttle body at the end of the throttle shaft. By monitoring the output voltage from the TPS, the PCM can determine fuel delivery based on throttle valve angle (Driver Demand). A broken or loosen throttle position sensor can cause intermittent bursts of fuel from the injectors and an unstable idle b/c of the PCM thinks the throttle is moving.
Problem #10 IAC motor
I have a 1995 Grand Cherokee with exactly the same problem. I just got home after stalling in a busy intersection for 20 min. The car has been in the garage and they were unable to find any problems. They cleaned the throttle body and the car worked fine for a couple of weeks
would agree it sounds like an IAC problem , b/c it only seems to do this when the throttle plates are closed, when the throttle is closed, the IAC opens to allow air to by-pass the throttle plates into the engine to keep it running.
try this to determine if the IAC is bad, start engine, place in gear (drive, Reverse), turn A/C on, and operate the power steering pump (turn wheel slightly right or left). the rpms should increase slightly or remain steady, if it drops or stumbles then the IAC is definitely bad and need to be replaced.
Problem #11 Air conditioning
check for leaks in hoses usually evaporator leak can either recharge it every summer or replace evaporator
Problem #12 Power windows
If it does not operate at all no noises and neither switch operates the window, then u will need to replace the Motor (regulator)
I just put a bid on e-bay - $43 for the motor and regulator.
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I had the same problems with my windows and it was in the black ground wire in the drivers door it controls all the windows,I just spliced into it and grounded it to the door with a screw and short wire and that fixed the windows now they all work. hope this helps some one.
on a warm to hot day the power windows wont work ( none of them ) ! I had a problem like this in my 93 GC Laredo... the kick panel on the drivers side there are wires in there that go thru the door on the drivers side, i had to take off that kick panel and check for crimped or cut wires, i did find some and i haven't had the problem since. check that out, quick easy fix for us.
Problem #13 Alarm
you have 3 "door lock solenoids" at each key entry. As long as ONE of them work you can manually disable alarm. If they ALL wear out and you lose infrared remote, you're screwed!
Easiest is to purchase another remote(Ebay @$40) and program with below instructions:
1. Put key in ignition. Leave in off.
2. Open driver door, leave open throughout.
3. Manually push door lock button to "lock" position, not using electric
door locks, just manually push lock button.
4. Turn ignition to "run" position.
5. Within 20 seconds, hold lock button on remote till remote LED flashes
twice and electric door locks cycle on /off.
6. Within 20 seconds, push manual door lock back to "lock" position and
press "lock" button on 2nd remote till it flashes twice and locks cycle
again.
7. Turn ignition key to "off" position within 20 seconds.
Up to four transmitters may be programmed to each receiver.
Security Alarm System if factory should set with the RKE!
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If it doesn't work, you may have bad ecm module(like me)
to disable manually. use key on either front door or back tailgate as follows:
turn key twice quickly to left and then once to right to manually disable security system. This assumes any of the 3 door switch solenoids work(all mine wore out)
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An alarm set that can't be reset can cause car to stall after 20 minutes driving for anti-theft reasons. To reset alarm push both buttons at once.
Valet mode. 2 ways to get into or out of this is....With a door open, press number one on the remote, then number 2, then number one again. The other way is right after you shut the car off, press and release the valet button that's usually under your dash.