I ran a short jumper wire directly from the main (battery lead) starter connector to the (starter relay) connector, again, both there on the new starter. I also unscrewed the Ignition Switch from under the dash. I placed a medium-sized flat head screw driver into the Ignition Switch (where the key would normally engage it) and turned it on. The car started immediately and ran smoothly. After doing that I assumed I had a faulty Ignition Switch. I replaced it and tried starting it, however, it just clicked and again would not crank at the starter and start the engine; just the usual quiet-click sound. Bear in mind, I've already replaced the Starter Relay. At this point, I am assuming I have a wiring short somewhere; some type of faulty wiring between the (new) Ignition Switch and the (new) 30A and 40A fusible links within the Engine Compartment Fuse Box. I'm assuming it's a problem somewhere near the kick-panel fuse box there on the Drivers side. Will check to see where I definitely have power within that circuit, and where it dead-ends. I had assumed, also, that the smaller (click-on) connector at the Starter had a damaged wire and/or bad connection. I looked at that earlier today and there is nothing wrong with that (black) wire and the click-on connector is clean; almost like-new. I'm wondering, also, if there is a hidden in-line / low-amperage fuse along that black igniton wire as it heads over to the Starter Relay. One way or another, I don't have connectivity on the Relay side of the Starter. Lastly, I have no dashboard lights. Only the AirBag light comes on when attempting to start the vehicle.