the oil ring it made up of 3 pieces, thats why they show 15 rings. you have 2 thin rings for top and bottom and a spacer ring to hold them apart. the compression rings will have a bevel or dot on them so you know what side goes up. box will say on that. for spacing check your book or look on box for recomended gap location. if you use a brush for top of pistons use a brass one gentyl. i usually use a old ring on its side to scrape off th worst stuff and then end to clean the ring grooves, you have to make sure you get out any build up thats behind the old ring or you can break new one installing it. also check piston over well for any cracks in the skirt. the bead hone will break the glaze on the cyl walls so new rings break in. the correct way is to have a 45 degree cross hatch pattern. you move drill up and down as it turns. bead hone will not make it round, they have a bar home that will do same job but its mostly used for new rebored holes, if use on stock cyls can sometimes make taper worse in cyl. did you check to see if you had any ridge at top of cyl? after you home cyl walls make sure you wash them out very well and clean crank off as well, to assemble coat rings with oil before putting rings compressor on. once ring compressor is on put rod end of bearing in rod and lube well with motor oil or break in lube. notch or dot on piston goes to belt end of engine. put your hoses on end of rod bolts and using wood end of hammer to tap piston into bore. if it doesn't go in easily take it out and make sure none of the rings are sticking out from bottom of compressor. you have to hold it down as you tap the piston in. also make sure you do not mix up rod caps, they are machined to fit only 1 rod, also observe what way the cap was on and take it off the same way, if they are not numbered mark the top of each piston as you remove it so you know what hole it goes back into