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		<title>Automotive Forums .com Car Chat - Escort</title>
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			<title>Automotive Forums .com Car Chat - Escort</title>
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		<item>
			<title>Is This an Escort?</title>
			<link>http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970998&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 22 Nov 2009 22:26:53 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>http://www.flickr.com/photos/us_army_rolling_along/4125482247/</description>
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			<category domain="http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=791">Escort</category>
			<dc:creator>AzTumbleweed</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970998</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>New Air Intake Filter</title>
			<link>http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970994&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 22 Nov 2009 21:32:26 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hey guys i have a 96 lx

I finally found a Performance cone air filter. But its 3" in diameter, well this fit on the escort hose with a MAF adapter?

I heard there could be problems and power loss putting more then a 2.5" filter on. Is this true?

Link:   http://www.toucanindustries.com/index.php?src=directory&view=products&submenu=Ractive&category=Performance%20Air%20Filters&query=%28category.eq.Performance%20Air%20Filters%29.and.%28category.eq.Performance%20Air%20Filters%29&refno=57920&srctype=products_detail

Thanks,

Chris]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hey guys i have a 96 lx<br />
<br />
I finally found a Performance cone air filter. But its 3&quot; in diameter, well this fit on the escort hose with a MAF adapter?<br />
<br />
I heard there could be problems and power loss putting more then a 2.5&quot; filter on. Is this true?<br />
<br />
Link:   <a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.toucanindustries.com/index.php?src=directory&amp;view=products&amp;submenu=Ractive&amp;category=Performance%20Air%20Filters&amp;query=%28category.eq.Performance%20Air%20Filters%29.and.%28category.eq.Performance%20Air%20Filters%29&amp;refno=57920&amp;srctype=products_detail" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://www.toucanindustries.com/inde...roducts_detail</a><br />
<br />
Thanks,<br />
<br />
Chris</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=791">Escort</category>
			<dc:creator>chrisanthony</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970994</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>98 Escort zx2 horn and park light problems</title>
			<link>http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970899&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 21 Nov 2009 05:20:32 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi my daughter has a 98 ford Escort zx2, when she starts it the horn start to honk and the park light start to flash it like the car has a security system in it but as far as I know it doesn't there is no command start in it either. Does any body any idea what would cause this?

Thank Meck46]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi my daughter has a 98 ford Escort zx2, when she starts it the horn start to honk and the park light start to flash it like the car has a security system in it but as far as I know it doesn't there is no command start in it either. Does any body any idea what would cause this?<br />
<br />
Thank Meck46</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=791">Escort</category>
			<dc:creator>Meck46</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970899</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Transmission Noise?</title>
			<link>http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970653&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 03:34:31 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hey, I have a 1998 Escort Zx2 with the manual transmission. When I push the clutch in with the car in gear I get this vibration sounding squeak. If i move to neutral it slows down and goes away. It does not do it at all in gear with the motor connected(coasting, accelerating, cruising) It also does not do it at a standstill regardless of gear position. It seems to only do it when the gears are engaged on the input shaft with the axles turning and the clutch pushed in.

Does this sound like an input shaft bearing? 

Thanks, 

Mark</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hey, I have a 1998 Escort Zx2 with the manual transmission. When I push the clutch in with the car in gear I get this vibration sounding squeak. If i move to neutral it slows down and goes away. It does not do it at all in gear with the motor connected(coasting, accelerating, cruising) It also does not do it at a standstill regardless of gear position. It seems to only do it when the gears are engaged on the input shaft with the axles turning and the clutch pushed in.<br />
<br />
Does this sound like an input shaft bearing? <br />
<br />
Thanks, <br />
<br />
Mark</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=791">Escort</category>
			<dc:creator>Markb873</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970653</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>1994 Escort 1.9l no heat</title>
			<link>http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970635&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 17 Nov 2009 21:30:15 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I have a 1994 ford escort that blows cold air - no heat. Could it be anything other than the heater core being clogged? I have heard that the core can become air-locked - if that is the case, how can I repair it? Any other areas to check?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have a 1994 ford escort that blows cold air - no heat. Could it be anything other than the heater core being clogged? I have heard that the core can become air-locked - if that is the case, how can I repair it? Any other areas to check?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=791">Escort</category>
			<dc:creator>Profg</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970635</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Tie Rods</title>
			<link>http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970315&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 13 Nov 2009 21:16:04 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>hey guysi have a 96 lx
 
I noticed my tie rods are going bad and in need of replacement.
I saw some nice ones on a 97 escort in the bone yard are they all the same?.
Can someone tell me step by step on how to replace them?
 
 
Thanks,
 
Chris</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>hey guysi have a 96 lx<br />
 <br />
I noticed my tie rods are going bad and in need of replacement.<br />
I saw some nice ones on a 97 escort in the bone yard are they all the same?.<br />
Can someone tell me step by step on how to replace them?<br />
 <br />
 <br />
Thanks,<br />
 <br />
Chris</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=791">Escort</category>
			<dc:creator>chrisanthony</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970315</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>TIPS: Things you can do for your 91-96 Escort LX</title>
			<link>http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970076&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 10 Nov 2009 18:49:34 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hey guys

The purpose of this tip thread is to provide Escort Lx owner’s info on cheap and easy ways to mod there beauties. I’ve seen threads for the Escort GT but this one is especially for the Lx owners.

*Please feel free to add any more suggestions or tips.*


1) Remove air silencer and cut most of the bottom of the air filter case. Drill a couple more holes at the bottom where the silencer used to be. This well give you a nice roar beneath your hood and people see an extra horse power or two.

2) Installiridium or plantum spark plugs. This well give you an extra boost of accerleration.

</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><font color="black"><font face="Verdana">Hey guys</font></font><br />
<br />
<font color="black"><font face="Verdana">The purpose of this tip thread is to provide Escort Lx owner’s info on cheap and easy ways to mod there beauties. I’ve seen threads for the Escort GT but this one is especially for the Lx owners.</font></font><br />
<br />
<font color="black"><font face="Verdana"><b>Please feel free to add any more suggestions or tips.</b></font></font><br />
<br />
<br />
<font color="black"><font face="Verdana">1) Remove air silencer and cut most of the bottom of the air filter case. Drill a couple more holes at the bottom where the silencer used to be. This well give you a nice roar beneath your hood and people see an extra horse power or two.</font></font><br />
<br />
<font color="black"><font face="Verdana">2) Install</font></font><font color="black"><font face="Verdana">iridium or plantum spark plugs. This well give you an extra boost of accerleration.</font></font><br />
<br />
</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=791">Escort</category>
			<dc:creator>chrisanthony</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970076</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>TIP:  Fix those doorjam switches // no dome light...</title>
			<link>http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970047&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 10 Nov 2009 06:20:59 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[How to *permanently* repair door jam switches...

'94 LX ~238k

Ever open up the door and find that the dome light won't come on ?  Do you have to play with the door jam switch to get the dome light to activate ?  Have you cleaned it up only to run into the same problem again within a number of months ?

NUTSHELL:  The permanent solution is to securely attach a ball of solder to the mating contact surfaces for the switch.


Tools needed:
Good 40W soldering iron. (http://www.google.com/images?q=soldering+iron&sourceid=opera&num=0&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8)
Good quality Radioshack Silver Bearing Solder. (http://www.google.com/images?hl=en&safe=off&sa=1&q=radioshack+silver+bearing+solder&aq=f&oq=&aqi=&start=0)
Phillips Head screw driver. (http://www.google.com/images?hl=en&safe=off&sa=1&q=radioshack+silver+bearing+solder&aq=f&oq=&aqi=&start=0)
Good Metal File (http://www.google.com/images?q=metal+file&sourceid=opera&num=0&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8) Tool
Four large Paper Clamps (http://www.google.com/images?hl=en&safe=off&sa=1&q=paper+clamps&aq=f&oq=&aqi=&start=0)
Needle nosed vice grips. (http://www.google.com/images?q=needle+nose+vice+grips&sourceid=opera&num=0&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8)
Roughly 30 minutes to do all four (or two in some cases) door jam switches.

1)  Use the phillips screwdriver to remove each doorjam switch.
2)  Pull enough wire out to securely attach the paper clamp then disconnect wire harness from switch.  WARNING:  It is super important that you not allow the wire to fall back into the hole.
3)  Use the metal file tool or flathead screwdriver to clean the four contact surfaces to a nice copper-colored finish. With exception to the stem, doesn't matter if you file down the plastic to get at the metal surfaces.
4)  Secure your switch in the circuit open position in preparation for soldering.  (vice grips)
5)  Being very careful *not to melt or distort* the plastics, use the tinned soldering iron (http://www.ehow.com/how_2216649_tin-soldering-iron.html) to heat directly adjacent to one of the four mating surfaces then apply solder.  Repeat the remaining three allowing adequate time for cooling so as to avoid distorting, damaging or melting the plastics.  Note that Cold solder joints will break.
6)  Reinstall switches in reverse of removal.

In the end, you should have two sturdy solder balls on either side of the stem, plus the grounding pad on the base coated with solder.  It may also be necessary to clean the part of the metal base that makes contact with the mounting screw.  This is how the switch grounds itself for proper operation.  Poor contact at the screw will also result in malfunction.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>How to *permanently* repair door jam switches...<br />
<br />
'94 LX ~238k<br />
<br />
Ever open up the door and find that the dome light won't come on ?  Do you have to play with the door jam switch to get the dome light to activate ?  Have you cleaned it up only to run into the same problem <i>again</i> within a number of months ?<br />
<br />
NUTSHELL:  The permanent solution is to securely attach a ball of solder to the mating contact surfaces for the switch.<br />
<br />
<br />
Tools needed:<br />
<a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.google.com/images?q=soldering+iron&amp;sourceid=opera&amp;num=0&amp;ie=utf-8&amp;oe=utf-8" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">Good 40W soldering iron.</a><br />
<a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.google.com/images?hl=en&amp;safe=off&amp;sa=1&amp;q=radioshack+silver+bearing+solder&amp;aq=f&amp;oq=&amp;aqi=&amp;start=0" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">Good quality Radioshack Silver Bearing Solder.</a><br />
<a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.google.com/images?hl=en&amp;safe=off&amp;sa=1&amp;q=radioshack+silver+bearing+solder&amp;aq=f&amp;oq=&amp;aqi=&amp;start=0" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">Phillips Head screw driver.</a><br />
Good <a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.google.com/images?q=metal+file&amp;sourceid=opera&amp;num=0&amp;ie=utf-8&amp;oe=utf-8" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">Metal File</a> Tool<br />
Four large <a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.google.com/images?hl=en&amp;safe=off&amp;sa=1&amp;q=paper+clamps&amp;aq=f&amp;oq=&amp;aqi=&amp;start=0" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">Paper Clamps</a><br />
<a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.google.com/images?q=needle+nose+vice+grips&amp;sourceid=opera&amp;num=0&amp;ie=utf-8&amp;oe=utf-8" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">Needle nosed vice grips.</a><br />
Roughly 30 minutes to do all four (or two in some cases) door jam switches.<br />
<br />
1)  Use the phillips screwdriver to remove each doorjam switch.<br />
2)  Pull enough wire out to securely attach the paper clamp then disconnect wire harness from switch.  <i>WARNING:  It is super important that you not allow the wire to fall back into the hole.</i><br />
3)  Use the metal file tool or flathead screwdriver to clean the four contact surfaces to a nice copper-colored finish. With exception to the stem, doesn't matter if you file down the plastic to get at the metal surfaces.<br />
4)  Secure your switch in the circuit open position in preparation for soldering.  (vice grips)<br />
5)  <i>Being very careful <b>not to melt or distort</b> the plastics</i>, use the <a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.ehow.com/how_2216649_tin-soldering-iron.html" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">tinned soldering iron</a> to heat directly adjacent to one of the four mating surfaces then apply solder.  Repeat the remaining three allowing adequate time for cooling so as to avoid distorting, damaging or melting the plastics.  Note that Cold solder joints will break.<br />
6)  Reinstall switches in reverse of removal.<br />
<br />
In the end, you should have two sturdy solder balls on either side of the stem, plus the grounding pad on the base coated with solder.  It may also be necessary to clean the part of the metal base that makes contact with the mounting screw.  This is how the switch grounds itself for proper operation.  Poor contact at the screw will also result in malfunction.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=791">Escort</category>
			<dc:creator>Intuit</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970047</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>TIP:  Smell When Run Heat on FULL...</title>
			<link>http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970041&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 10 Nov 2009 04:25:13 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA['94 LX currently ~238k

This problem first appeared about two years ago when it was really frigid out.

For awhile, thought I was breathing the exhaust fumes of those cars in front of me.  But after about a week or two eventually caught on to the pattern that the strength of the smell was tied to running the blower on full.  

*QUESTION:*  What was the smell ?
*ANSWER:*  Burning plastic.

*QUESTION: * What was the source of the smell ?
*ANSWER: * The small and large plastic wire harnesses for the blower motor.

*SUPPOSITION:* The motor was pulling enough amperage to burn-up the plastic wire harnesses so it must be bad right ?  
*ANSWER:*  *Nope.*  



*QUESTION:*  So what caused the plastic on the wire harness to burn up ?
*CAUSE:*  The contacts on the wire harness and those on the resistor assembly were severely corroded.  (rusted in fact)




The motor is in fact, good.  The bearings are good and turns easily, even when heated.  Replacing the motor only provided temporary relief.  


*RESOLUTION:*  To resolve the problem, the metal contacts need to be replaced.  Cleaning them up will be just as temporary.  Ordinarily they should not corrode in that manner.  The alloy used in manufacturing them is defective.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>'94 LX currently ~238k<br />
<br />
This problem first appeared about two years ago when it was really frigid out.<br />
<br />
For awhile, thought I was breathing the exhaust fumes of those cars in front of me.  But after about a week or two eventually caught on to the pattern that the strength of the smell was tied to running the blower on full.  <br />
<br />
<b>QUESTION:</b>  What was the smell ?<br />
<b>ANSWER:</b>  Burning plastic.<br />
<br />
<b>QUESTION: </b> What was the source of the smell ?<br />
<b>ANSWER: </b> The small and large plastic wire harnesses for the blower motor.<br />
<br />
<b>SUPPOSITION:</b> The motor was pulling enough amperage to burn-up the plastic wire harnesses so it must be bad right ?  <br />
<b>ANSWER:</b>  <b><font color="Red">Nope.</font></b>  <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>QUESTION:</b>  So what caused the plastic on the wire harness to burn up ?<br />
<font color="Red"><b>CAUSE:</b></font>  The contacts on the wire harness and those on the resistor assembly were severely corroded.  (rusted in fact)<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
The motor is in fact, good.  The bearings are good and turns easily, even when heated.  Replacing the motor only provided <i>temporary</i> relief.  <br />
<br />
<br />
<b>RESOLUTION:</b>  To resolve the problem, the metal contacts need to be replaced.  Cleaning them up will be just as temporary.  Ordinarily they should not corrode in that manner.  The alloy used in manufacturing them is <i>defective</i>.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=791">Escort</category>
			<dc:creator>Intuit</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970041</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Weird coolant color</title>
			<link>http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970014&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 09 Nov 2009 23:25:11 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hey guys

I have a 96 escort lx auto

Right after driving home from work, i noticed the coolants color has changed to a sandy tan color. Is it supposed to be like that?..i remember it being green the last time i checked a couple weeks ago.

Thanks,

chris</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hey guys<br />
<br />
I have a 96 escort lx auto<br />
<br />
Right after driving home from work, i noticed the coolants color has changed to a sandy tan color. Is it supposed to be like that?..i remember it being green the last time i checked a couple weeks ago.<br />
<br />
Thanks,<br />
<br />
chris</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=791">Escort</category>
			<dc:creator>chrisanthony</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970014</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Alternator</title>
			<link>http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=969846&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 07 Nov 2009 20:03:45 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hey guys i just got my 96 lx auto back today and i need to put in an alternator.

I'm thinking of pulling one from one of the new escorts in the junkyard.
Do you know if the 96-99 escorts uses the exact same alternator?..
And i noticed 2 bolts holding the alternator. Are those the only 2 thats mounting the alternator?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hey guys i just got my 96 lx auto back today and i need to put in an alternator.<br />
<br />
I'm thinking of pulling one from one of the new escorts in the junkyard.<br />
Do you know if the 96-99 escorts uses the exact same alternator?..<br />
And i noticed 2 bolts holding the alternator. Are those the only 2 thats mounting the alternator?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=791">Escort</category>
			<dc:creator>chrisanthony</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=969846</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>99 escort Head Gasket trouble</title>
			<link>http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=969814&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 07 Nov 2009 05:17:13 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hey everyone, I'm hoping you could give me some advice with a head-gasket issue. My 99 escort appears to have blown a head gasket for the second time in two months, and I'm not sure what to do.

About two months ago, my head gasket started leaking...started my car one morning and blew a large cloud of steam behind me. When I took it to the mechanic, he said it clearly was overheated, and said it could only get that way with no water. It had indeed ran a bit low and overheated at least a month prior, but I hadn't had problems since then(was during the summer), though I didn't think it got hot enough to damage it since I shut it off as soon as I noticed it and hadn't driven far. I asked the mechanic if the damage could have taken a while to finally show up. He said, flatly, no; it would show immediately. Well, that didn't make much sense cause I hadn't noticed it overheat or be without water right before the problem showed up. Anyways, I got it fixed, and he assured me everything checked out as working(fan comes on, thermostat was new, no leaks visible...).

Well, a few days ago I had the same problem. Took it back to the mechanic and he says it again has clearly been hot(apparently by how the oil looks). Now, it most definitely hasn't been without water. I've been checking it constantly(almost in a paranoid manner, given I just spent a small fortune to repair it). Indeed, it still had water when I checked it after I noticed the problems again. Also, I have never noticed the heat-gauge going out of the normal range.  I'm kind-of in a bind now. The mechanic maintains that everything checked out ok prior to releasing it back to me, so it isn't his fault....I find it hard to believe I blew two head gaskets in two months, and they're not related incidences.

So, what do you think? Am I doing something wrong, is it just bad luck, or did the mechanic miss something?  The mechanic *has* offered to split the labor cost to repair it, but unfortunately that's not a great decrease in the bill(especially since I don't really have it). I still don't know what caused this to happen, so am reluctant to pay to repair it, if it may happen yet again.


Have any ideas or thoughts about this? I'd greatly appreciate any advice you have. Thanks]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hey everyone, I'm hoping you could give me some advice with a head-gasket issue. My 99 escort appears to have blown a head gasket for the second time in two months, and I'm not sure what to do.<br />
<br />
About two months ago, my head gasket started leaking...started my car one morning and blew a large cloud of steam behind me. When I took it to the mechanic, he said it clearly was overheated, and said it could only get that way with no water. It had indeed ran a bit low and overheated at least a month prior, but I hadn't had problems since then(was during the summer), though I didn't think it got hot enough to damage it since I shut it off as soon as I noticed it and hadn't driven far. I asked the mechanic if the damage could have taken a while to finally show up. He said, flatly, no; it would show immediately. Well, that didn't make much sense cause I hadn't noticed it overheat or be without water right before the problem showed up. Anyways, I got it fixed, and he assured me everything checked out as working(fan comes on, thermostat was new, no leaks visible...).<br />
<br />
Well, a few days ago I had the same problem. Took it back to the mechanic and he says it again has clearly been hot(apparently by how the oil looks). Now, it most definitely hasn't been without water. I've been checking it constantly(almost in a paranoid manner, given I just spent a small fortune to repair it). Indeed, it still had water when I checked it after I noticed the problems again. Also, I have never noticed the heat-gauge going out of the normal range.  I'm kind-of in a bind now. The mechanic maintains that everything checked out ok prior to releasing it back to me, so it isn't his fault....I find it hard to believe I blew two head gaskets in two months, and they're not related incidences.<br />
<br />
So, what do you think? Am I doing something wrong, is it just bad luck, or did the mechanic miss something?  The mechanic *has* offered to split the labor cost to repair it, but unfortunately that's not a great decrease in the bill(especially since I don't really have it). I still don't know what caused this to happen, so am reluctant to pay to repair it, if it may happen yet again.<br />
<br />
<br />
Have any ideas or thoughts about this? I'd greatly appreciate any advice you have. Thanks</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=791">Escort</category>
			<dc:creator>plwww</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=969814</guid>
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			<title>97 Starter removal</title>
			<link>http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=969344&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 01 Nov 2009 18:49:29 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>:crying: I need to change the starter again in the Escort. I had a certain shop do it last winter. They went through 3 starters before one worked. During the summer it to started to act up on cool misty mornings. And now when the tempt get below freezing it does not want to work. This shop had just changed ownership prior to the repairs. I think they cheaped out the parts. 
 Anyways I bought a new starter with insulated spade connector and extra wire. 
 The problem is how to remove it. 
 The manual say you take it out from the top. Well on my car there is no such room to get buy the intake manifold. Also the 3rd bolt is not visible from underneath. It seems I need to remove the Battery and the box to get at the bolts. Can anyone verify this is what I need to do. I want to change it before it gets too cold and snow on the ground here. 
 It looks like it can be removed from underneath once unbolted. 
 HELP!:crying:</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>:crying: I need to change the starter again in the Escort. I had a certain shop do it last winter. They went through 3 starters before one worked. During the summer it to started to act up on cool misty mornings. And now when the tempt get below freezing it does not want to work. This shop had just changed ownership prior to the repairs. I think they cheaped out the parts. <br />
 Anyways I bought a new starter with insulated spade connector and extra wire. <br />
 The problem is how to remove it. <br />
 The manual say you take it out from the top. Well on my car there is no such room to get buy the intake manifold. Also the 3rd bolt is not visible from underneath. It seems I need to remove the Battery and the box to get at the bolts. Can anyone verify this is what I need to do. I want to change it before it gets too cold and snow on the ground here. <br />
 It looks like it can be removed from underneath once unbolted. <br />
 HELP!:crying:</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=791">Escort</category>
			<dc:creator>gpw</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=969344</guid>
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			<title>99 escort emergency brake adjustment</title>
			<link>http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=969303&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 01 Nov 2009 02:55:40 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[So after draining my bank account for 4 new tires and a cat converter for my adorable little car.... I still failed the inspection for a safety violation- 

The E-Brake/ Parking brake.

My father jacked up the car but couldn't find the adjustment.

Does anyone know where the adjust it? Is it relatively easy to get to?

We'd like to just be able to try to maybe tighten it and hopefully fix it before needing to take it to a garage.

If anyone could help it, you would be my hero!]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>So after draining my bank account for 4 new tires and a cat converter for my adorable little car.... I still failed the inspection for a safety violation- <br />
<br />
The E-Brake/ Parking brake.<br />
<br />
My father jacked up the car but couldn't find the adjustment.<br />
<br />
Does anyone know where the adjust it? Is it relatively easy to get to?<br />
<br />
We'd like to just be able to try to maybe tighten it and hopefully fix it before needing to take it to a garage.<br />
<br />
If anyone could help it, you would be my hero!</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=791">Escort</category>
			<dc:creator>nessavig</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=969303</guid>
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			<title>Wrongway Escort</title>
			<link>http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=969276&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 31 Oct 2009 20:57:06 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Image: http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2576/4061325889_76312a294a_b.jpg </description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2576/4061325889_76312a294a_b.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=791">Escort</category>
			<dc:creator>AzTumbleweed</dc:creator>
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