http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin Ask technical questions about cars. Do you know how a car engine works? en Sat, 21 Nov 2009 11:00:42 GMT vBulletin 60 http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/images/misc/rss.jpg http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970827&goto=newpost Fri, 20 Nov 2009 12:13:17 GMT Interesting that the Prius now uses the higher efficiency Atkins 4 stroke cycle - thanks Toyota - at least you are trying to extend the life of the old IC engine by improving efficiency.

Have any seen the MECXIC engine cycle which takes this idea a step further ?

I fear our old friend the IC engine's days are numbered unless we come up with something clever and damned soon on the efficiency/consumption/pollution war.

Plug-in Lithium power and terminal boredom awaits us all...... ]]> Engineering/Technical David Mason http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970827 http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970698&goto=newpost Wed, 18 Nov 2009 18:46:02 GMT I've found pictures of an interesting repair manual software. Does someone know the name of this software and where I can get it?

I found the picture below at the www.2carpros.com website.

What interesting in this software is that it show all cars and model, not only a particular make, such the 96-99 ford service manual.

There's the picture:


]]> Engineering/Technical serge_saati http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970698 http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970688&goto=newpost Wed, 18 Nov 2009 16:51:39 GMT I also posted this in the Corolla section.

I have a '96 Toyota Corolla that needs a new cylinder head (4AFE). The head that came from my engine has an egr port under the #4 intake port that feeds the egr through a passage in the intake manifold. All the junkyard heads around here do not have the egr port on the head. Is there a way around this?

If it helps, according to a manual for the 4AFE engine (in a Celica), I have a California emissions exhaust manifold. I'm assuming that is why my egr design is different. ]]> Engineering/Technical vgames33 http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970688 http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970459&goto=newpost Sun, 15 Nov 2009 15:25:53 GMT Anybody familiar with the brand "Husky Springs?" They cost a little less on Rockauto.com when compared to the MOOG and AC Delco application that I need. I'm familiar with the the 2 latter names but not with the products themselves to say one is better than the other other.

thanks ]]> Engineering/Technical moliva1568 http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970459 http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970403&goto=newpost Sat, 14 Nov 2009 22:12:54 GMT Hey everybody. First off, I gotta say that I'm here for help. Not to be told I'm crazy or stupid or any shit like that. My project is a 1999 isuzu amigo. I am in the process of turning it into a show truck. I'm stupid, I'm crazy, their are so many Better cars to work with out there etc. Yeah. I've heard it all. Which is why I came to this site. I'm hoping somebody here can just tell me the facts that I'm looking for. If you don't have somethig productive to say, then please just don't comment on this. With that said I'm looking for somebody to tell me where to het started performance wise on this. So far I have cold air intake and an n1 exhaust. I am planning to run a turbo setup. I know I need custom headers and all that kinda shit. Low compresion pistons and everything like that. And their are almost no agtermarket pats out there for these
SUVs so I know the money it's gonna take to do this. I know I'm gonna have to have close to everything custom made. That's another part of my question. If anybody knows an like machine shops or anything in jersey let me know. I'm basically just asking for somebody to tell me where to start. I really just need stuff like the best turbos for my purpose and all that kinda crap. Any help is appreciated. But guys like I said if you're just gonna criticize me for my project ora anything then please just don't say nothin. I just came here for help. Thanks
Chris. ]]> Engineering/Technical IsuzuFire http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970403 http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970252&goto=newpost Thu, 12 Nov 2009 23:31:38 GMT I want to coat a piece of metal with paint so it doesnt rust. It is a random piece of metal i found in my house and it is going to be used to secure a piece inside my headlight. The area that the piece of metal will be touching gets very hot (too hot to touch without burning off your skin). If i use a rust paint on the piece of metal, will the rust paint burn up and cause fumes or not? Does any paint work as rust protection or does it have to be a rust paint? If i used a high heat primer on the piece of metal, would this also stop rust? I want to coat a piece of metal with paint so it doesnt rust. It is a random piece of metal i found in my house and it is going to be used to secure a piece inside my headlight. The area that the piece of metal will be touching gets very hot (too hot to touch without burning off your skin). If i use a rust paint on the piece of metal, will the rust paint burn up and cause fumes or not?

Does any paint work as rust protection or does it have to be a rust paint? If i used a high heat primer on the piece of metal, would this also stop rust? ]]> Engineering/Technical h3llfir3 http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970252 http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970151&goto=newpost Wed, 11 Nov 2009 17:49:02 GMT So on my 91 corolla has gotten louder. I did some searching and found that the exhuast, where it connects with the exhuast manifold which is held on by two peg bolts has rusted. There is an inch or two wide hole. Thats what has made the car sound louder and like its farting. The car feels like it hasn't got the power it had before. It could be cause as it farts it just feels more sluggish than it already is. Does the exhuast need a certain compression amount like the engine on the inside needs to make the engine run at its best? I plan on getting a new exhuast put on. Be nice if I could weld. ]]> Engineering/Technical HeWhoKillz http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970151 http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970134&goto=newpost Wed, 11 Nov 2009 11:19:07 GMT hi guys
I read something interesting yesterday(atleast to me) that lateral weight transfer can occur in a car due to drive torque from driveshaft to axle which causes axle to rotate. I found it strange that how drive torque in differential which rotates axle and thus wheels, can transfer laterally loads.Can u tell me how it occurs? ]]> Engineering/Technical Ris91 http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970134 http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=969986&goto=newpost Mon, 09 Nov 2009 18:35:38 GMT Back to the 93 sentra 1.6 5 speed engine swap. How does one reinstall the drive axles? I tried pushing them in but they refuse to go in. The have the ring at the end around them. Does it need a hit from a hammer or will that hurt the bearings inside? Is there a special way of doing this? Does one go in before another? There isn't alot left to do with the car accept some hoses and alternator. The air conditioner never worked so I want to simply remove it from the car. The power steering will be a pain to get back in just as it was getting off. But the engine is in the car and all wiring has been switched over. ]]> Engineering/Technical HeWhoKillz http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=969986 http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=969919&goto=newpost Sun, 08 Nov 2009 21:11:13 GMT Before i go exploring and potentially break something, i thought i'd check here. How do fender skirts usually attach and how would i remove them to take off the wheel? is it something that has to come off completely or can be attached but moved outward to access the wheel? This would be for the Catalina. Thanks ]]> Engineering/Technical moliva1568 http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=969919 http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=969842&goto=newpost Sat, 07 Nov 2009 19:11:02 GMT Am looking for some sort of small gravel scraper/grader or scoop that can be pulled by an auto with a trailer hitch. What forum should we post this question ? Am looking for some sort of small gravel scraper/grader or scoop that can be pulled by an auto with a trailer hitch.

What forum should we post this question ? ]]> Engineering/Technical akm http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=969842 http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=969652&goto=newpost Thu, 05 Nov 2009 14:16:30 GMT i have to replace the existing dual exhaust on the catalina. taking into consideration the length, how much would be reasonable? 1 place quoted me 750 from manifold back with flowmasters. another place was 500 from mufflers back with generic mufflers. what do you think? Mozilla/4.0 (compatible; MSIE 6.0; Windows CE; IEMobile 8.12; MSIEMobile 6.0) VZW:SCH-i910 PPC 240x400 i have to replace the existing dual exhaust on the catalina. taking into consideration the length, how much would be reasonable? 1 place quoted me 750 from manifold back with flowmasters. another place was 500 from mufflers back with generic mufflers. what do you think?
Mozilla/4.0 (compatible; MSIE 6.0; Windows CE; IEMobile 8.12; MSIEMobile 6.0) VZW:SCH-i910 PPC 240x400 ]]> Engineering/Technical moliva1568 http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=969652 http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=969644&goto=newpost Thu, 05 Nov 2009 09:55:38 GMT Hi,

I am working on the dynamic modeling of formula 1 cars in simulink at the moment, and I have an issue with inputs so I was wondering if anyone could help.
Basically, I need the slip angles (kappa and alpha) as inputs to my tyre model, I'm guessing the best method would be to use a signal input varying between -1 and 1 (rad). I've been playing around with all kinds of source blocks (eg sinusoidal, step or even 'from workspace' inputting the values as an array or structure), but nothing really does what I want, so I guess it all boils down to me not fully understanding how to set the properties of the input signal correctly. I want to basically restrict it to one period (in the case of a sinusoidal type input), and want the values to go from -1 to 1. Do any of you guys have experience with this type of modeling? I'm starting to get really frustrated, becasue I know my equations are correct and so are my input values on paper, I'm just getting ridiculous outputs that are completely nonsensical because I'm having this input issue.
Any help or tips would be very much appreciated. ]]> Engineering/Technical lucia http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=969644 http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=969497&goto=newpost Tue, 03 Nov 2009 17:36:52 GMT hi when we see torque vs rpm graphs then the rpm there is engine rpm but what about torque..........is it the torque at wheels or torque at engine flywheel????? Yesterday i saw graphs relating tractive force and speed..............so this tractive force is on wheels and speed is of the vehicle so we can say rpm at wheels....................so how can tractive force at wheels reduce with increase in rpm of wheels hi
when we see torque vs rpm graphs then the rpm there is engine rpm but what about torque..........is it the torque at wheels or torque at engine flywheel?????

Yesterday i saw graphs relating tractive force and speed..............so this tractive force is on wheels and speed is of the vehicle so we can say rpm at wheels....................so how can tractive force at wheels reduce with increase in rpm of wheels ]]> Engineering/Technical Ris91 http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=969497 http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=969475&goto=newpost Tue, 03 Nov 2009 05:54:04 GMT We receive questions about vehicle storage regularly, especially in the fall. I would like to start the definitive vehicle storage thread in this forum to save members from having to re-post the information every few months.

Proper preparation can make a big difference in the preservation of any vehicle. Anyone can park a car, but if it's not stored properly, significant, costly damage can accumulate. Often, it's worthwhile to do a little work now to save big headaches in the future.

So here are some tips, in priority order; with (imo) the most important tips coming first. Not everyone does all these preparations, but I have been storing vehicles, often for several years at a time, since I was a kid in the mid-1970's, so I have a good idea of the damage that might happen and how to avoid it.

1.Fuel System Add some fuel stabilizer to the gas tank and fill the tank. Drive the car for a couple of miles so the stabilizer can make its way through the fuel line. The stabilizer stops the gas from decomposing, and the full tank minimizes the airspace in the tank, so rust-forming condensation does not appear.

If you are going to store a car for more than a year, it's best to drain the tank and make sure it's dry and well vented. If the car is carbureted, run the engine until the carb is dry.

2. Battery. Remove the battery and store it in a cool or cold place. If you can't remove it, then disconnect the negative terminal. Either way, it's best to give the battery a few hours of low-amp trickle charge every month or two. I have been told by an Exide representative that batteries last longer when cold. If fully charged, the best place for it is in your freezer. But I just leave it in an unheated garage.

3.Engine Change the engine oil and filter. Used engine oil, even if it's not that old, usually has acids and contaminants that can slowly etch or damage smooth engine surfaces, like bearing journals, lifters, etc. After the change, run the engine for few minutes to let the fresh oil circulate.

Use an engine oil fogger on the engine if you live in a damp climate and/or if you expect to store the car for a long time. This coats the valves and cylinder walls in an oil film which reduces rust build-up.

There really is no need to periodically start an engine in storage, if it's been properly prepped. Imo, the effects of a cold start and condensation generated by combustion is probably more harmful than simply leaving it alone. However, I have several vehicles that have been in storage for many years. About once a year, I put in a battery and fuel, start them up and let them run until fully warm. When they cool down, I drain the carb and prep them for storage again.

4. Brakes If the brake system has not been flushed in a few years, do it now (unless you have DOT 5 fluid). Drain the master cylinder and add fresh fluid. Bleed all the brake lines until fresh fluid comes out. If your brake rotors are really nice, carefully give them a coat of WD-40, but avoid contaminating the pads. Remember to clean off the WD-40 with a spray can of brake cleaner before driving.

5. Coolant. Check the coolant strength (specific gravity). If the cooling system has not been serviced in recent years, do it now. A periodic flush and fill is part of proper vehicle maintenance. Check the owners manual for the recommended frequency. Personally, I think that aluminum blocks and/or heads require this service every 2 -3 years.

6. Cleaning Wash the outside of the car. Hose off the wheelwells and any place underneath where dirt has collected. Vacuum the inside, because dirt can attract and hold condensation. Clean all hard upholstery surfaces (vinyl, leather etc) with Armor-All or similar preservative product. Remove all floor mats and store separately, as they can hold condensation on the carpet/floor.

A Gore-Tex cover is nice, but not necessary. Avoid impervious, plastic covers, as they hold condensation. A coat of wax is nice on all chrome and on the body,if you have older technology paint, like acrylic lacquer. It's not important for newer paints, though.

7. Suspension and Tires I like to raise the car on jackstands or blocks so the tires are off the ground and the suspension droops. Again, this is not required for winter storage, but is a nice touch for longer storage periods. Inflate the tires to recommended specifications. A coating of Armor-All on the tire sidewalls helps preserve their appearance.

8. Pests. Get some mouse traps. Bait them with peanut butter and place them underneath the car, with a couple more inside. Check them occasionally. Sticky mouse pads are good too. Avoid mouse poisons, since you will end up finding the dead mice in the headliner, under the seats etc.

Don't use mothballs, either. They stink up the car and don't work very well.

Personally, animals have caused more storage damage to my cars over the years than everything else put together. Hopefully, you will not have to deal with rats or porcupines, as I have on occasion. If they are present, use the appropriate traps.

9. Rust. If your car has any bare metal / rusty spots underneath, get a spray can of aerosol grease/undercoating/paint etc. and give them a quick blast, or have the car professionally undersprayed with an oily rustproofing material.

10. Storage Buildings. Hopefully, you have a nice place to store the car. Ideally, the building should be wood or concrete. Steel garages are okay, but suffer from more severe temperature fluctuations unless they are insulated. They tend to get quite warm in the daytime sun, then cool down quickly at night, which promotes condensation.

An impervious floor is important, be it concrete, asphalt, brick or wood. But if you have to store it on a dirt surface (either inside or outdoors), spread a large sheet of plastic on the ground first, then drive on it. This reduces the effects of condensation. If you must park in a barn, avoid the lower level of any hay barn (a.k.a. 'ramp barn'). The stone walls, dirt floors and dampness are trouble. The upper level, with good ventilation and a wood floor are preferable.

11. Outdoor Storage. Obviously, outside storage is not ideal, but can be a reasonable choice. I stored a 1967 Continental outside for 13 years with minimal damage, thanks to good preparation, periodic maintenance, a well ventilated, relatively dry space, with a plastic mat on the ground, and a good car cover. If you do so, avoid a windy location and make sure your cover is strapped down so it does not move. A cover that moves in the wind can damage paint.

So, hopefully your car will survive the storage period in pristine shape. and ready for the road in the spring.

Trouble! I have seen some terrible things happen due to improper storage. For example, one friend stored his 1960 Rolls-Royce for 5 years in a barn, Unfortunately, it was in the lower level, with stone walls and a dirt floor. It was a good looking and good running car when it went in, but he did no prep.

When it came out of storage, it was heavily damaged. The Rolls V8 (first year) was seized solid from rust. The brakes were worthless piles of rust, with no salvageable parts. The classic aluminum body (final year for the style) was dusty with corrosion and pitting. Most fasteners in the engine compartment and undercarriage were seized with rust. The tires were severely damaged from sitting flat on the ground. The chrome and nickel plate was rusty in areas. The wool-and-leather interior was a split-level mouse condo. All the soft materials were chewed/cracked, stained etc beyond use. The real burled-walnut trim was de-laminating.

Suffice to say, after pricing out some new parts ($2000 for a master cylinder!!!) it was clear that improper storage had tuned a $10k car into an unusable pile of scrap metal.

But I'm sure we all can do better:) Feel free to add your tips, too. ]]> Engineering/Technical MagicRat http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=969475