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		<title>Automotive Forums .com Car Chat - Grand Prix</title>
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		<language>en</language>
		<lastBuildDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 22:35:25 GMT</lastBuildDate>
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			<title>Automotive Forums .com Car Chat - Grand Prix</title>
			<link>http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin</link>
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		<item>
			<title>Need Speaker</title>
			<link>http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970822&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 08:37:18 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I have an '01 Grand Prix SE and I can barely hear the right rear speaker.  The sound is so low, I can hardly hear it when I put my ear to it with only that speaker dialed in with the fade and balance.  
 
Does anyone know what would be the cheapest method of replacing the speaker?
 
Thanks]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have an '01 Grand Prix SE and I can barely hear the right rear speaker.  The sound is so low, I can hardly hear it when I put my ear to it with only that speaker dialed in with the fade and balance.  <br />
 <br />
Does anyone know what would be the cheapest method of replacing the speaker?<br />
 <br />
Thanks</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=386">Grand Prix</category>
			<dc:creator>lance_kidd</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970822</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Dumb Defroster Question</title>
			<link>http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970807&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 02:29:45 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Ok, this is going to sound really dumb, but I seriously have no clue how this works.  I heard that when you turn on your defroster, the A/C is on to dehumidify the air.  Is that true?  How does the air stay hot if the A/C is running too?  This concept is completely losing me, so if someone can explain it in small four-letter words (just kidding) that would be great.  :screwy:</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Ok, this is going to sound really dumb, but I seriously have no clue how this works.  I heard that when you turn on your defroster, the A/C is on to dehumidify the air.  Is that true?  How does the air stay hot if the A/C is running too?  This concept is completely losing me, so if someone can explain it in small four-letter words (just kidding) that would be great.  :screwy:</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=386">Grand Prix</category>
			<dc:creator>00GTP4ME</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970807</guid>
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			<title>DIC not working properly, a few other things</title>
			<link>http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970790&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 23:41:06 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I signed up for this forum so I could search it, but for some reason when I write "DIC" in the keyword, it comes up with zero results, even though I see a thread title with "DIC" in it on the very first page here. 

The DIC in a 98 Grand Prix GT I'm helping to sell is flashing zeroes in every category. This happened directly after the ignition switch was replaced. I keep finding references online that they are related but haven't found out how yet, or how I could fix it. 

The ABS light went on as well as the traction control off light. I checked for codes from the obd, none were displayed, but I didn't know if those would store or code there or not. 

Also at the same time the radio display went out. It still works on the HUD, but I saw someone mention that searching online that they might be related. 

Unrelated, the SRS Airbag light has been on in this car for 10 years. It's been checked out more than once and was found the airbag system was fine. Is this a common thing?

Thanks for your help]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I signed up for this forum so I could search it, but for some reason when I write &quot;DIC&quot; in the keyword, it comes up with zero results, even though I see a thread title with &quot;DIC&quot; in it on the very first page here. <br />
<br />
The DIC in a 98 Grand Prix GT I'm helping to sell is flashing zeroes in every category. This happened directly after the ignition switch was replaced. I keep finding references online that they are related but haven't found out how yet, or how I could fix it. <br />
<br />
The ABS light went on as well as the traction control off light. I checked for codes from the obd, none were displayed, but I didn't know if those would store or code there or not. <br />
<br />
Also at the same time the radio display went out. It still works on the HUD, but I saw someone mention that searching online that they might be related. <br />
<br />
Unrelated, the SRS Airbag light has been on in this car for 10 years. It's been checked out more than once and was found the airbag system was fine. Is this a common thing?<br />
<br />
Thanks for your help</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=386">Grand Prix</category>
			<dc:creator>AspenSTi</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970790</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>92 gp pass rear caliper</title>
			<link>http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970756&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 14:25:21 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[my passagner side rear brake caliper wont work. i bought a new caliper , bleed it right. and there is no change in the brake pedal postion to stop the car. the bolts were hard to get in the holes but i did not strip[ them out though. i checked that.

anyone know what it might be.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>my passagner side rear brake caliper wont work. i bought a new caliper , bleed it right. and there is no change in the brake pedal postion to stop the car. the bolts were hard to get in the holes but i did not strip[ them out though. i checked that.<br />
<br />
anyone know what it might be.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=386">Grand Prix</category>
			<dc:creator>napoleankjj2006</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970756</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>headlight/fog lights</title>
			<link>http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970710&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 21:11:54 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>theres a guy who lives by me and he.s got those blueish/whiteish... they look more blue to me but anyways i asked him where he got them and he,s beening a d@#k and wont tell... and the fogs match the headlights   any clue where he my of got them and they are bright and not blinding bright but lights up the road very good...........PSif anybody in here lives in mich let me know</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>theres a guy who lives by me and he.s got those blueish/whiteish... they look more blue to me but anyways i asked him where he got them and he,s beening a d@#k and wont tell... and the fogs match the headlights   any clue where he my of got them and they are bright and not blinding bright but lights up the road very good...........PSif anybody in here lives in mich let me know</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=386">Grand Prix</category>
			<dc:creator>all power</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970710</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[HID's and stock headlight housings]]></title>
			<link>http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970695&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 18:27:25 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I was reading a thread on another forum by a guy who says he is SAE certified in gaseous discharge lighting, and headlight design.  He said that the HID bulbs are longer and because of that, the "arc" isn't refected in the reflectors correctly and it ruins the headlight beam. 
 
Those of you who have put real HID's in your stock headlight housings, have you noticed any problems with that?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I was reading a thread on another forum by a guy who says he is SAE certified in gaseous discharge lighting, and headlight design.  He said that the HID bulbs are longer and because of that, the &quot;arc&quot; isn't refected in the reflectors correctly and it ruins the headlight beam. <br />
 <br />
Those of you who have put real HID's in your stock headlight housings, have you noticed any problems with that?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=386">Grand Prix</category>
			<dc:creator>00GTP4ME</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970695</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>2000 GP With Very Bad Shuttering</title>
			<link>http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970649&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 01:36:05 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hey all. I have a 2000 GP with 3.1 engine. When the car is first cranked up, it runs perfect. As soon as it gets warmed up, it shutters between all shifts as long as you have the gas pedal pushed down at low speeds and low rpm. Give it more gas and the shutter stops. It's also started the shuttering while driving at speed between 55 and 65 mph. And it does it really bad while going up a hill unless you give it alot of gas. The exhaust seems to have a little bit of a " putter " effect when you put your hand in front of the exhaust pipe, sorta like a miss. I don't know what to do with it. Anyone have an idea that could help me? Also has new intake and head gaskets and held pressure fine on a test. thanks!]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hey all. I have a 2000 GP with 3.1 engine. When the car is first cranked up, it runs perfect. As soon as it gets warmed up, it shutters between all shifts as long as you have the gas pedal pushed down at low speeds and low rpm. Give it more gas and the shutter stops. It's also started the shuttering while driving at speed between 55 and 65 mph. And it does it really bad while going up a hill unless you give it alot of gas. The exhaust seems to have a little bit of a &quot; putter &quot; effect when you put your hand in front of the exhaust pipe, sorta like a miss. I don't know what to do with it. Anyone have an idea that could help me? Also has new intake and head gaskets and held pressure fine on a test. thanks!</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=386">Grand Prix</category>
			<dc:creator>dedhowy</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970649</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Gm part # confirmation</title>
			<link>http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970646&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 01:07:57 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hey guys,

I want to perform a tune-up on my 109k 2000 Grand Prix GT and found decent prices at the follow link, so I just wanted to confirm these were the correct part numbers.  Would anyone know?  Thanks in advance.</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hey guys,<br />
<br />
I want to perform a tune-up on my 109k 2000 Grand Prix GT and found decent prices at the follow link, so I just wanted to confirm these were the correct part numbers.  Would anyone know?  Thanks in advance.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=386">Grand Prix</category>
			<dc:creator>msusscle83</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970646</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Brakes Recommendations</title>
			<link>http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970639&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 17 Nov 2009 22:44:48 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi All,
 
One of the things that amazed me about this car when I first bought it was the braking.  This thing stopped on a dime.  I did noticed that the rotors would warp a little though.
Well the day came when the rotors and pads needed to be replaced.  So to try and get around the warping, I went and got some drilled and slotted rotors....off of....ebay (I know, I know.) :shakehead
They sure looked cool when I first put them on, but then my braking distance about doubled.  My Jeeps stops WAY better than my car does and my Jeep has crappy brakes.
Well that was a few years ago and the time to replace these things will be coming up soon.  So I have a couple questions.  First, the rotors:
 
Should I get regular solid cast rotors like I had before or should I get higher quality drilled and/or slotted rotors from somewhere else?
 
On the pads, the best stopping I had was when I was using ceramic pads on regular rotors.  The only problem was the the rotors wore down fairly quickly and would get rather hot.  I like the look of drilled/slotted rotors, but heard that you have to use soft pads on those kinds of rotors.  I know I have soft pads on right now (they came with the rotors), and they are wearing fine with no warping to the rotors, but I also have no stopping! :uhoh:
 
The bottom line is that I want the best stopping power I can get without my rotors warping after a few weeks.  Any suggestions?
 
Thanks!
:jump3:</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi All,<br />
 <br />
One of the things that amazed me about this car when I first bought it was the braking.  This thing stopped on a dime.  I did noticed that the rotors would warp a little though.<br />
Well the day came when the rotors and pads needed to be replaced.  So to try and get around the warping, I went and got some drilled and slotted rotors....off of....ebay (I know, I know.) :shakehead<br />
They sure looked cool when I first put them on, but then my braking distance about doubled.  My Jeeps stops <i>WAY</i> better than my car does and my Jeep has crappy brakes.<br />
Well that was a few years ago and the time to replace these things will be coming up soon.  So I have a couple questions.  First, the rotors:<br />
 <br />
Should I get regular solid cast rotors like I had before or should I get higher quality drilled and/or slotted rotors from somewhere else?<br />
 <br />
On the pads, the best stopping I had was when I was using ceramic pads on regular rotors.  The only problem was the the rotors wore down fairly quickly and would get rather hot.  I like the look of drilled/slotted rotors, but heard that you have to use soft pads on those kinds of rotors.  I know I have soft pads on right now (they came with the rotors), and they are wearing fine with no warping to the rotors, but I also have no stopping! :uhoh:<br />
 <br />
The bottom line is that I want the best stopping power I can get without my rotors warping after a few weeks.  Any suggestions?<br />
 <br />
Thanks!<br />
:jump3:</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=386">Grand Prix</category>
			<dc:creator>00GTP4ME</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970639</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>DIC and AC problems</title>
			<link>http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970498&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 16 Nov 2009 01:10:37 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi folks.  I have a 1997 Grand Prix GTP.  Today my DIC went off for a few seconds and when it did my AC would quit working.  This happened 4 or 5 time today it usually only lasts for around 10 or 20 seconds.  I also noticed a clicking noise from under the dash one time whitch might not have anything to do with this since it was only once.  I have read that the ignition swtich can cause all kinds of in dash problems could this be the case or maybe something else?  Thanks for any advice or poinions
 
Justin</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi folks.  I have a 1997 Grand Prix GTP.  Today my DIC went off for a few seconds and when it did my AC would quit working.  This happened 4 or 5 time today it usually only lasts for around 10 or 20 seconds.  I also noticed a clicking noise from under the dash one time whitch might not have anything to do with this since it was only once.  I have read that the ignition swtich can cause all kinds of in dash problems could this be the case or maybe something else?  Thanks for any advice or poinions<br />
 <br />
Justin</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=386">Grand Prix</category>
			<dc:creator>gtp3.8</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970498</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>90 grand prix brake pedal stays down</title>
			<link>http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970496&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:45:09 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>:banghead:I have a 90 grand prix and the brake pedal wont return to the original position when i hit the brakes! the brakes work fine otherwise but i have a bunji cord wrapped around the brake pedal to the steering colum so i dont have to lift the pedal with my foot to shut the brake lights off!do you know what i need to fix this or how hard it is to fix?any info would be greatly apreciated!!:banghead:</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>:banghead:I have a 90 grand prix and the brake pedal wont return to the original position when i hit the brakes! the brakes work fine otherwise but i have a bunji cord wrapped around the brake pedal to the steering colum so i dont have to lift the pedal with my foot to shut the brake lights off!do you know what i need to fix this or how hard it is to fix?any info would be greatly apreciated!!:banghead:</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=386">Grand Prix</category>
			<dc:creator>thunderbirdsc</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970496</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>02 gas guage</title>
			<link>http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970489&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 15 Nov 2009 23:20:53 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>have 02 gt gas guage reads full whenever its moving. at stop sign for a minute it appears to work correctly</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>have 02 gt gas guage reads full whenever its moving. at stop sign for a minute it appears to work correctly</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=386">Grand Prix</category>
			<dc:creator>razx4</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970489</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Instrument cluster Kph or Mph</title>
			<link>http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970449&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 15 Nov 2009 05:57:04 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I found car dealer that sells cheap good cars but they are being brought down from Canada.  This means the speedo is in Kph.  Is it possible to simply buy an inst cluster in Mph from ebay and replace.  Will there be any problem with the function of anything on the vehicle.  I understand the miles might not match and the cluster screws will show being tampered with, but we are talking about a 2500 dollar car and I only care about it working correctly.</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I found car dealer that sells cheap good cars but they are being brought down from Canada.  This means the speedo is in Kph.  Is it possible to simply buy an inst cluster in Mph from ebay and replace.  Will there be any problem with the function of anything on the vehicle.  I understand the miles might not match and the cluster screws will show being tampered with, but we are talking about a 2500 dollar car and I only care about it working correctly.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=386">Grand Prix</category>
			<dc:creator>Ralph50</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970449</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>hard shifting into reverse from park????</title>
			<link>http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970399&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 14 Nov 2009 21:20:26 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I have a 1999 grand prix gtp with 75,000 miles on it.   I am having an issue with the transmission....It shifts great while driving, but when shifting from park to reverse or neutral to reverse it really shifts hard and the engine moves alot.   Shifting into drive does not clunk as badly as reverse.
 
I rotated the radiator support bushings at the top of the engine but the engine still wants to move alot during the reverse shifts.
 
Would it be a bad motor mount or transmission mount?   Would it be from having too high line pressure inside the transmission?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have a 1999 grand prix gtp with 75,000 miles on it.   I am having an issue with the transmission....It shifts great while driving, but when shifting from park to reverse or neutral to reverse it really shifts hard and the engine moves alot.   Shifting into drive does not clunk as badly as reverse.<br />
 <br />
I rotated the radiator support bushings at the top of the engine but the engine still wants to move alot during the reverse shifts.<br />
 <br />
Would it be a bad motor mount or transmission mount?   Would it be from having too high line pressure inside the transmission?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=386">Grand Prix</category>
			<dc:creator>vader99</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970399</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>fix for hesitation/stutter intermittently</title>
			<link>http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970379&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 14 Nov 2009 18:18:51 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Anyone here have an 04+ GP with Series III engine?  I've got 106k on my 05 GT, and have this intermittent problem where i'll start the car, and go to drive it but it has no power and surges with light pedal input, and bogs down when you get on it.  Turn the car off, restart, and it works fine.  This happens like every 10th start, doesn't matter if its a cold or warm start.  I've been digging around the net trying to find others with this issue, but it doesn't seem there are many cars of this vintage to get high miles on them yet.  I've found a few reported issues and people blaming the transmission, PCM, traction control etc... but no exact fix.

I think I may have found the culprit though.  I believe it is a problem with the "drive by wire" throttle system.  Its as though the PCM is not getting the correct throttle info when this happens (no check engine lights though).  Has anyone ever replaced their gas pedal assembly?  Its basically the pedal attached to some sort of electronic potentiometer box and looks like an easy part to replace.  I saw there was a TSB somewhere (not sure of the number) that stated a similiar issue and the dealer was to replace the gas pedal assembly or throttle body to fix.  My gas pedal has always been rather stiff as well which leads me to believe it could be the source of the problem.  Also sometimes it will start and it will take very little throttle input and the car flies, most of the time it drives with what i would call normal response and then sometimes i get the no power/stumble issue (kinda like when traction control turns on where it surges the engine).  I've removed and cleaned my TB, and all sensors are clean as well.

Trouble is finding a gas pedal assembly for a drive by wire car (malibu, G6, grand prix) is not easy to do used.  And then there is the issue of a junkyard car also having the same problem.  I'd like to find one and disassemble the electronic component and see if it needs to be cleaned or if resistance can be measured from the input like a TPS.  Anyone attempted this or is this a fools folley?  I can't find one locally and they are $50+ on ebay used so its alot of out of pocket to test this hunch.  I don't wanna take mine apart because its my daily driver.  Let me know what you think, thanks!]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Anyone here have an 04+ GP with Series III engine?  I've got 106k on my 05 GT, and have this intermittent problem where i'll start the car, and go to drive it but it has no power and surges with light pedal input, and bogs down when you get on it.  Turn the car off, restart, and it works fine.  This happens like every 10th start, doesn't matter if its a cold or warm start.  I've been digging around the net trying to find others with this issue, but it doesn't seem there are many cars of this vintage to get high miles on them yet.  I've found a few reported issues and people blaming the transmission, PCM, traction control etc... but no exact fix.<br />
<br />
I think I may have found the culprit though.  I believe it is a problem with the &quot;drive by wire&quot; throttle system.  Its as though the PCM is not getting the correct throttle info when this happens (no check engine lights though).  Has anyone ever replaced their gas pedal assembly?  Its basically the pedal attached to some sort of electronic potentiometer box and looks like an easy part to replace.  I saw there was a TSB somewhere (not sure of the number) that stated a similiar issue and the dealer was to replace the gas pedal assembly or throttle body to fix.  My gas pedal has always been rather stiff as well which leads me to believe it could be the source of the problem.  Also sometimes it will start and it will take very little throttle input and the car flies, most of the time it drives with what i would call normal response and then sometimes i get the no power/stumble issue (kinda like when traction control turns on where it surges the engine).  I've removed and cleaned my TB, and all sensors are clean as well.<br />
<br />
Trouble is finding a gas pedal assembly for a drive by wire car (malibu, G6, grand prix) is not easy to do used.  And then there is the issue of a junkyard car also having the same problem.  I'd like to find one and disassemble the electronic component and see if it needs to be cleaned or if resistance can be measured from the input like a TPS.  Anyone attempted this or is this a fools folley?  I can't find one locally and they are $50+ on ebay used so its alot of out of pocket to test this hunch.  I don't wanna take mine apart because its my daily driver.  Let me know what you think, thanks!</div>

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