http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin en Sat, 21 Nov 2009 12:29:27 GMT vBulletin 60 http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/images/misc/rss.jpg http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970813&goto=newpost Fri, 20 Nov 2009 03:57:57 GMT So I recently replaced my intake gasket. When I was putting everything back together, I was inspecting my PCV valve and noticed it didn't make any noise like it's supposed to, I tapped it with my hand a few times and the rattler inside was working again. After I got my truck started, I noticed that when in gear, and even sometimes in Park, you can hear the PCV rattling, loudly. I changed it for a new one and still makes the rattling. I know my Catalytic converter needs to be replaced (said the local shop). I don't know if this is what can be causing the rattling. This is for a 98 Blazer with a 4.3 V6 4x4. Any help? ]]> Blazer 85sskid http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970813 http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970808&goto=newpost Fri, 20 Nov 2009 02:34:04 GMT Ok, so I was driving in rain the other day and I came to a red light. I wanted to pass the car next to me so I thought I'd trow my 98 Blazer in 4hi to get a little more traction. It worked fine and then I put it back in 2wd. After all that, as I was coming to a complete stop, I got this weird vibrating/grinding noise from somewhere in the front end (i think). It started as soon as I'd get on the brake, slowed down as my speed decreased and continue until i was almost to a crawl. I hadn't used the 4x4 in a while either (I thought I'd mention it in case it has anything to do with this). Anyone have a clue? ]]> Blazer 85sskid http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970808 http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970668&goto=newpost Wed, 18 Nov 2009 11:19:53 GMT I am experiencing major lifter tapping when the engine is cold but completely goes away when it is warmed up. I believe I may have caused the problem buy not changing my oil every 3 mo/3000 miles last spring. Could this be an indication of too thick of sludge oil in the bottom of the oil pan? Do I need to remove the oil pan and clean the screen? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I am experiencing major lifter tapping when the engine is cold but completely goes away when it is warmed up. I believe I may have caused the problem buy not changing my oil every 3 mo/3000 miles last spring. Could this be an indication of too thick of sludge oil in the bottom of the oil pan? Do I need to remove the oil pan and clean the screen? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. ]]> Blazer bandit7862 http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970668 http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970619&goto=newpost Tue, 17 Nov 2009 17:49:42 GMT Hey all, I have a 98 blazer, 4.3L, 4wd with 95000 miles. The indicator lights in the 4wd push button control panel go on and off intermittantly. When the lights are on everything works just fine. When the lights are out I am unable to do anything with the 4wd. Has anyone else experienced this problem? Thanks, Harry Hey all,
I have a 98 blazer, 4.3L, 4wd with 95000 miles. The indicator lights in the 4wd push button control panel go on and off intermittantly. When the lights are on everything works just fine. When the lights are out I am unable to do anything with the 4wd. Has anyone else experienced this problem?

Thanks, Harry ]]> Blazer harry73 http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970619 http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970614&goto=newpost Tue, 17 Nov 2009 16:46:48 GMT hey guys i posted earlier on what fluid to put in my transfer case i got some good input theonly problem im having is that i dont know what transfer case i have in my 02 4x4 blazer as it has been replaced anyway i can tell looks like there was some kind of sticker on it at one point but its gone im trying to determine wether to use autotrackII or dex i want to change the fluid in my transfer and diffs before snow hits i know my diffs take 80w90 gear oil i just dont know what to use in my transfer it has dex in it now but id like to have whats best for my truck as ive had the whole drivetrain except the front dif replaced new transfer case, transmission and rear dif any info would be great like i said i dont know what transfercase i have as it has been replaced how can i find out wich one i have thanks Dave hey guys i posted earlier on what fluid to put in my transfer case i got some good input theonly problem im having is that i dont know what transfer case i have in my 02 4x4 blazer as it has been replaced anyway i can tell looks like there was some kind of sticker on it at one point but its gone im trying to determine wether to use autotrackII or dex i want to change the fluid in my transfer and diffs before snow hits i know my diffs take 80w90 gear oil i just dont know what to use in my transfer it has dex in it now but id like to have whats best for my truck as ive had the whole drivetrain except the front dif replaced new transfer case, transmission and rear dif any info would be great like i said i dont know what transfercase i have as it has been replaced how can i find out wich one i have
thanks
Dave ]]> Blazer 91goldbomb http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970614 http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970504&goto=newpost Mon, 16 Nov 2009 02:55:14 GMT I have a 93 Jimmy 4.3 with an tick that won't seem to go away. It cannot hear it at high or low idle (even if it is accelerated with the brake on) but it is obvious under load or accelerating. It is louder when cold and quiets down dramatically when it warms to operating temp. It has 172,000 miles on it and runs very well. The only issue before the noise is that it blows smoke at every startup. Burns very little oil. I have intended to replace the seals but haven't gotten to it yet.

The ticking start about 6 weeks ago. I thought it might be the usual sticky lifter issue so I tried some additives. Eventually I ran Seafoam through the system. Then some MMM. Didn't resolve it.

I used a stethoscope and thought I heard clicking under the passenger side rocker cover. I removed the cover, rocker arms, and pushrods. Found one pushrod bent so I replaced it. Put it back together and it rain quiet.....for a day. So it is either something else causing the tick or I bent the pushrod again.

I waited til it got louder but could not hear it under the valve covers or anywhere else. Pulled both covers this time, checked the torque on the rockers, checked all the parts.... no obvious problems. Used a "check" I read about for lifters (pushing the pushrod into the lifter feeling for sponginess.... all solid). The new pushrod from last time is fine.

This is the first time I have had both covers off and I took some pics. The passenger side is much darker that the driver's side. Not that obvious on the pics but it I has the same kind of difference you would see under the intake when the FPR has leaked but the nut kit side is OK.

Any help on where to go to find and fix the tick? Also, any ideas on what would cause one side of the engine to so much darker/lighter than the other side?

The pics:
For some reason I am not able to upload these pics even though they are each less than the limit and no reason given for the failure. ]]> Blazer Licklog http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970504 http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970361&goto=newpost Sat, 14 Nov 2009 14:08:43 GMT I thought my blazer had a bad fuel pump because when i turn the key i wouldnt hear the pump. My girlfriend was driving it and it was still running with it finally died. It was bucking and wouldnt get up there in full rpms I told her to pull over incase she blew it up. Well when i got there it wouldnt start at all. A couple of days later it started and idled fine i could rev it up then it bucked a couple times like it didnt have enough fuel and died for the last time. Well yesterday I put a pump in it thinking it was the problem and low and behold .. same thing. Not fuel in the lines and no sounds of the pump running. I swapped the relay out for another one and still didnt work. I have no clue whats wrong with this p.o.s. Please help so I can get this thing going. I have an aftermarket car starter in it which was working fine and still does. I turned it off thinking it was the problem but its still not starting. I thought my blazer had a bad fuel pump because when i turn the key i wouldnt hear the pump. My girlfriend was driving it and it was still running with it finally died. It was bucking and wouldnt get up there in full rpms I told her to pull over incase she blew it up. Well when i got there it wouldnt start at all. A couple of days later it started and idled fine i could rev it up then it bucked a couple times like it didnt have enough fuel and died for the last time. Well yesterday I put a pump in it thinking it was the problem and low and behold .. same thing. Not fuel in the lines and no sounds of the pump running. I swapped the relay out for another one and still didnt work. I have no clue whats wrong with this p.o.s. Please help so I can get this thing going. I have an aftermarket car starter in it which was working fine and still does. I turned it off thinking it was the problem but its still not starting. ]]> Blazer pdieni http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970361 http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=969932&goto=newpost Mon, 09 Nov 2009 00:02:38 GMT Lets see if I can explain this. Engine runs fine, but the dash board lights and head lights flicker, battery is dead after 12-16 hours of sitting. Battery and alternator tested fine at auto shop. I placed an Ammeter between the (-) terminal on the battery and the (-) cable. I expected for there to be a parasitic draw, but I do not know what the tolerable range is. When the ignition is just turned off, I get a reading that fluctuates between 1.5-2 amps. After about 30 seconds it drops to 0.95 amp. I know that 0.05 amp is drawn by some aftermarket accessories, they are tied into the 30A aux post in the main fuse box under the hood. I have traced the rest to a 50A fuse under the hood labeled INT BAT. Am I headed in the right direction chasing this stuff down, or has anybody else encountered this problem? Lets see if I can explain this. Engine runs fine, but the dash board lights and head lights flicker, battery is dead after 12-16 hours of sitting. Battery and alternator tested fine at auto shop. I placed an Ammeter between the (-) terminal on the battery and the (-) cable. I expected for there to be a parasitic draw, but I do not know what the tolerable range is. When the ignition is just turned off, I get a reading that fluctuates between 1.5-2 amps. After about 30 seconds it drops to 0.95 amp. I know that 0.05 amp is drawn by some aftermarket accessories, they are tied into the 30A aux post in the main fuse box under the hood. I have traced the rest to a 50A fuse under the hood labeled INT BAT. Am I headed in the right direction chasing this stuff down, or has anybody else encountered this problem? ]]> Blazer airboss20 http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=969932 http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=969924&goto=newpost Sun, 08 Nov 2009 22:30:48 GMT ok i have a 97 Blazer 4X4 4.3L. with a P1870. I've heard that i need to replace the valve body, so i pulled it off today and looked at it. i was also told to look at the plate to make sure that one of the balls aren't stuck, and they weren't. The plate has a bit of wear on one hole but nothing to bad. The valve body.....well what can i say. I don't know what i'm looking for but the its made of aluminum and i don't see nothing wrong with it. Can someone PLEASE tell me what i'm looking for. thanks ]]> Blazer mansopoor http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=969924 http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=969911&goto=newpost Sun, 08 Nov 2009 18:44:18 GMT Thanks for looking at this, I have a '96 chevy blazer 4x4 4.3. My ecm batt fuse starting blowing every now and again, I went directly to thinking it was a short some where. I have checked the most common areas for shorts (Moving parts and what not), but have not found any shorts. I am looking into the fuel pump and front diff issues as well. Anyways so the ecm batt fuse stopped popping and now the ECM fuse has blown over and over again, any ideas what to do? Is there a battery for the ecm? Any help on this would be appreciated, thanks all. ]]> Blazer CBBlazer http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=969911 http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=969625&goto=newpost Thu, 05 Nov 2009 02:55:58 GMT My wife's 99 Blazer 2wd for some time has had a loose steering wheel. Since I took it into the shop, while the mechanic had it up on the lift, I took advantage and looked at all the tie rods and linkage. They all seemed nice and tight to me. It may be a dumb question to ask, but is it possible that the steering wheel itself needs to be tightened to the column??? Forgive me, but I had to ask. Just didn't know if something as simple as that could be a possibility instead of looking at diagnosing the underbelly of the car. Anything to keep me from doing any more dirty work than is necessary......:screwy: ]]> Blazer Tinkerin_wit_tools http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=969625 http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=969349&goto=newpost Sun, 01 Nov 2009 21:05:07 GMT I have a 1992 S-10 Blazer, A/C works good except when I accelerate the air stops coming out of the dash vents, instead it comes out the defrost, now if I take my foot off the gas it comes back to the dash vents it even comes out of the floor vents when I accelerate. Any ideas what it could be? Thanks Joe I have a 1992 S-10 Blazer, A/C works good except when I accelerate the air stops coming out of the dash vents, instead it comes out the defrost, now if I take my foot off the gas it comes back to the dash vents it even comes out of the floor vents when I accelerate. Any ideas what it could be?
Thanks
Joe ]]> Blazer joeyd50 http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=969349 http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=969298&goto=newpost Sun, 01 Nov 2009 02:03:38 GMT To tell you all the truth, I am not sure what is wrong with my wife's SUV. It is a 99 Blazer 2wd. I always seem to hit a brick wall with it, because I got more of a feel for my own vehicle. Since I don't drive it much, and it has happened to me only twice, I will try my best to explain. About a month ago, you could hear her brakes squeal, so I was going to put aside some time to replace the pads and check them this weekend, which is what I did. Sometimes when you have the car stopped, then accelerate, it seems to have some sort of hesitation. Someone at my job said that sometimes older calipers stick and since they won't let off the rotor, the car has trouble moving. No codes came up within the last month, so I took off the front wheels, and yes, I found uneven pad wear on the driver side front. I assumed that the caliper needed to be replaced and did just that. Tires went back on, just got back from test drive and they did that "mystery hesitation" once on the way back home. I am still a novice, and have replaced some items on her engine, mine, and at least did my brakes. What should I check now? I am truly helpless, and the last thing I want is my wife's car to break down on the side of the road since she transports our son to and from daycare daily. Thank you so much for any response, but hopefully they will be numerous and soon, before I loose all my hair. :runaround: ]]> Blazer Tinkerin_wit_tools http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=969298 http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=968922&goto=newpost Tue, 27 Oct 2009 01:15:35 GMT I had this problem until someone told me how to reset the system. It worked great and I didn't have to pull the underside of the dash apart, here is what worked for me;

Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
Remove the RDO BATT fuse for 10 seconds.
Reinstall the RDO BATT fuse.
Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
Ensure that the air mix door actuator cycles through the hot and cold range.

Full air through the defrosters now. ]]> Blazer spanico http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=968922 http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=968840&goto=newpost Mon, 26 Oct 2009 03:13:32 GMT Hello all,

Been looking on here for a couple weeks, ever since buying a 98 4 door blazer. Lots of good information here.

My heater is stuck on, and the climate control doesn't do anything. Researched a bunch of posts on here and thought it was the actuator motor. Got to it the other night and it appears fine. Gears are not cracked, and the climate control makes the gears spin.

Figured I'd try to move the blend door by hand before I put the actuator back on. Can't budge it. I believe I should be able to open/close the door by hand, and it shouldn't be difficult to move. Anyone know?

I'm told the heater core was replaced right before I bought it. I'm wondering if something was installed wrong and has the door stuck. Looks like I'll be getting up close and personal with the dash removal proceedure!:biggrin: ]]> Blazer emingin http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=968840