Help! car audio question

I'm just getting into setting up some audio in my car. I don't know a whole lot just yet, but i'm learning. I already have a Pioneer deck. MOSFET 50X4. I was looking at a......Visonik Amplifier

500 watts RMS x 2 at 4 ohms
700 watts RMS x 2 at 2 ohms
1300 watts RMS x 1 bridged output at 4 ohms
stereo or bridged mono output
4-ohm stable in bridged mode
Tri-Way capable
requires 4-gauge power and ground leads plus a 150-amp fuse and fuse holder — wiring and hardware not included with amplifier
variable 35-250 Hz low-pass and high-pass crossovers, 12 dB/octave
variable bass boost (0-12 dB)
variable phase control (0° to 180°)
preamp- and speaker-level inputs
preamp outputs
cooling fan
wired remote control
19-1/2"W x 3-3/16"H x 11-11/16"D
2-year warranty

Then I am thing about buying 2 12's off a friend. They are Audiobahn Subs. On the font of the box they are in says 800w. The question that is bothering me is, Getting the amp and the subs the right thing?
Any help will be thanked.

How much is the amp? It looks like a Class A/B amp. Which is more of a strain on our electrical system than a Class D amp.

The specs look alright, just make sure your sub will be compatible impedance wise to get the most out of the amp. (basically that leaves you with getting either 2 svc 2ohm subs or 2 dvc 4 ohm subs)

Also look at Ultamate Digitalis 1300... It is a good amp also that is very inexpensive.

WOW ... a 1300 watt amp with a 150 amp fuse .......

funny huh... depending on the class of the amp it is possible (on a full draw)

no, it should be a 50-60 amp fuse for that size amplifier .... only a pure class A would draw that kind of power - but they really don't exist.

WOW ... a 1300 watt amp with a 150 amp fuse .......
Is this good or bad? Again i'm just getting to learn about this stuff.

just seems a little high ........ but it doesn't really matter, if there is a short circuit - I am sure the fuse will blow, even one 2 or 3 times what it should be.

those fuses only blow when twice the rated current goes through them... I dunno my MTX 500D had a 75 amp fuse and could put out near 1K in power (got it rated at some 900 watts)... And my 225R puts out 800 watts of power at 15V @ 1 Ohm, all on 2 30 amp fuses...


The fact that the name is Visonik (Which I could have sworn was a susidiary of Audiobahn) is the part that is causing concern. No one say's anything about the BD1500's 150 amp fuse requirement.

I didn't know that amp had a fuse that big either.

Originally posted by PaulD
I didn't know that amp had a fuse that big either.

the MTX or the Orion? The MTX was underrated, the Orion HCCA series amps are considered cheater amps... They usually put out twice the power they are rated at, due to their high current design.


But yup. If you look at MTX's lineup this year they actually name the amps more accurately. the 6500 is now the 801. The name of the amps mirrors the power output...

Orion (now DEI) has dropped the HCCA line... I personally think that was a mistake but what do I know...

just seems a little high ........ but it doesn't really matter, if there is a short circuit - I am sure the fuse will blow, even one 2 or 3 times what it should be.
Ok, How can I make sure that I don't have a short circuit? BTW will adding this Amplifier mess the electronical devices up on my car? I'm probably going to buy the 2 Audiobahn 12's allready in a box. The front of the box says 800W. The reason I'm thinking of the Visonik AMP is b/c I think for being able to get 1600 Watts Max out of it for the price is a good deal. Thats if It is bridged of course. Maybe 1300 Watts will be too much for these speakers.

http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S-rnX5HobwEQk/ProdView.asp?s=0&cc=01&c=3&g=110&I=028V3909++

this is what im looking at..

I would worry more about your alternator and your battery than i would your subs... the subs are cheaper to replace than the alt and or battery is.