Aftermarket Security System?

Has anyone installed an aftermarket security system in a 97-03 Grand Prix? If so, how'd it go, what system do you have and what advice would you give to a first-timer?

I have an Avital system in my 2003 Monte Carlo... I would not recommend doing it yourself if you are inexperienced, however.
Mozilla/5.0 (iPhone; U; CPU iPhone OS 3_1_3 like Mac OS X; en-us) AppleWebKit/528.18 (KHTML, like Gecko) Version/4.0 Mobile/7E18 Safari/528.16

Aftermarket alarms are a pain to put in, often times don't interface correctly with the stock door locks and alarm/disarm system, and are as easily disabled as if not more so than the stock security system.

Really only good thing about it is some 2-way ones come with a remote that vibrates and makes a sound if the alarm is triggered. I put a crimestopper fortress fs80 touch screen remote starter in my g/f's car for her birthday in october. (I was half tempted to wrap the remotes up into a little ring box to make it look like an enguagement ring, but thought that might have been mean). The worst part was getting the alarm to interface correctly with the stock system. PITA, but I think I got it. We ended up not using the siren that came with the system because I find them annoying. We just made it arm and disarm the stock system.

I will see if I can get a video of her car on here soon for you guys to see.

Matt, what did you have to do to get the car to start?

Did that ondemand write-up help at all?

Very helpful info, thank you! I am getting a 2-way system that has a factory alarm arm/disarm.

Tim, they were able to reset the alarm and once they did it would start fine. Your provided info proved extremely helpful as the girl at the dealership was completely clueless. They put it all back together and I picked it up only to find the fog light switch, the climate control and the DIC all have burned out lights now.

The alarm system showed up today and it looks legit. I also ordered a microwave sensor for some additional fun. :evillol: I've been hearing pretty consistently that these are a PITA so I'm going to have it installed at a stereo/alarm place. Hopefully all goes well.

When I had a Chrysler field service van and had an alarm installed. The place that installed the alarm burned up the bcm. Then they tried to pawn off as that the way it came in. I had to have the company attorney contact them. And they paid for a new bcm. So make sure where ever you take it that they what they are doing.

Sounds good to me! The bulbs aren't too hard to replace, I have a write-up in tips and maintenance on how to replace the fog light switch bulb.

For the DIC, you can try this.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=336441&highlight=dic

And I am pretty sure that the climate controll bulbs will need to be de-soldered and new ones soldered in. I had a portion of my HVAC bulbs burn out last night. What is weird with GM lighting, you can sometimes smack in the are of the burn out bulb and it will light back up, and last for a long time. Don't ask me why this works, but mine came back on after a good whack.

Yours are probably burnt out because of the shock they took from someone jumping in and ripping at stuff.

Question for you. My exhaust rotted out (love the MN salty roads), the resonator has a nickel size hole in it, makes my car sound crappy. Do you have aftermarket exhaust? I was thinking about doing 2.5 inch engine back, with a cat of course, and then split off after the cat to dual mufflers (probably a stock sound), and I was looking for some tips like yours. What type are they?

Yes the climate control bulbs are soldered in just use some solder wick to remove the solder. Which you can get at the local radio shack. Use LEDs will for the most part will not burn out just rember to use a 1K dropping resistor if you do use the LEDS.

When I had a Chrysler field service van and had an alarm installed. The place that installed the alarm burned up the bcm. Then they tried to pawn off as that the way it came in. I had to have the company attorney contact them. And the paid for a new bcm. So make sure where ever you take it that they what they are doing.

That's exactly what I'm afraid of and no matter where you go, you run that risk. I have a guy in mind, and before I give him the keys I'm going to interview him and find out exactly what his experience his. I really really want this done right the first time.

Sounds good to me! The bulbs aren't too hard to replace, I have a write-up in tips and maintenance on how to replace the fog light switch bulb.

For the DIC, you can try this.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=336441&highlight=dic

And I am pretty sure that the climate controll bulbs will need to be de-soldered and new ones soldered in. I had a portion of my HVAC bulbs burn out last night. What is weird with GM lighting, you can sometimes smack in the are of the burn out bulb and it will light back up, and last for a long time. Don't ask me why this works, but mine came back on after a good whack.

Yours are probably burnt out because of the shock they took from someone jumping in and ripping at stuff.

Question for you. My exhaust rotted out (love the MN salty roads), the resonator has a nickel size hole in it, makes my car sound crappy. Do you have aftermarket exhaust? I was thinking about doing 2.5 inch engine back, with a cat of course, and then split off after the cat to dual mufflers (probably a stock sound), and I was looking for some tips like yours. What type are they?

I love what you did with the LED's on the switch, that is just cool. Heck, I'll ship mine up to you, have you do the LED swap and then send it back! :p You know, if you just collected factory switches and sold them as "LED upgraded," I'd bet you'd turn some kind of a profit from losers like me! :iceslolan

I should be hearing back from the insurance tomorrow as to what they're going to do. I've already contacted Morad and if the insurance falls through, I won't be set back too horribly. And if I get lucky and they just replace it all for me, then all the better.

As for the exhaust I went with 2.5" stainless pipe - cat back with resonator delete and I have been really pleased with it. I wish I would've done the U-bend delete at the time, but I didn't really know about it when I did the exhaust.
My mufflers are just cheapies I got off ebay. They're stainless steel dual tipped Otto mufflers and while they're obviously nothing to brag about, I really have no complaints with them. They sound and look good despite the fact I have done a horrible job of keeping them clean and polished.
You remember how I put those vents in my bumper? Well one of my "some day" projects when I get a garage is to make a whole new bumper where I will get a Corvette muffler and tips and have them come up through the middle of the bumper. So just imagine the little slots in the rear bumper being moved to the center and combined to one big slot where the four tips would be. It might be a little much so I'm going to have my sis do some photoshopping before I actually start any work on it to make sure it doesn't look stupid.

That's exactly what I'm afraid of and no matter where you go, you run that risk. I have a guy in mind, and before I give him the keys I'm going to interview him and find out exactly what his experience his. I really really want this done right the first time.



I love what you did with the LED's on the switch, that is just cool. Heck, I'll ship mine up to you, have you do the LED swap and then send it back! :p You know, if you just collected factory switches and sold them as "LED upgraded," I'd bet you'd turn some kind of a profit from losers like me! :iceslolan

I should be hearing back from the insurance tomorrow as to what they're going to do. I've already contacted Morad and if the insurance falls through, I won't be set back too horribly. And if I get lucky and they just replace it all for me, then all the better.

As for the exhaust I went with 2.5" stainless pipe - cat back with resonator delete and I have been really pleased with it. I wish I would've done the U-bend delete at the time, but I didn't really know about it when I did the exhaust.
My mufflers are just cheapies I got off ebay. They're stainless steel dual tipped Otto mufflers and while they're obviously nothing to brag about, I really have no complaints with them. They sound and look good despite the fact I have done a horrible job of keeping them clean and polished.
You remember how I put those vents in my bumper? Well one of my "some day" projects when I get a garage is to make a whole new bumper where I will get a Corvette muffler and tips and have them come up through the middle of the bumper. So just imagine the little slots in the rear bumper being moved to the center and combined to one big slot where the four tips would be. It might be a little much so I'm going to have my sis do some photoshopping before I actually start any work on it to make sure it doesn't look stupid.

If only I had the time to work on things like LED conversions, LOL! All my time is spent on keeping my things together and running good. I am sure you could handle it! Heck you installed your sound system!

Thanks for the info on the exhaust. I like the look of the dual tips and was just curious what you had since my stock exhaust has seen its better days (the norm for a 10 yr olf car in MN I guess)

Good luck on the quest for a reputable remote start installer. I would stay away from best buy. They have teenager losers like me working there and just want to get the cars in and out as quick as possibe. I could recommend a place around here where three brothers own it and do all their own work. Very good quality work done.

Old Skool Kustoms http://www.unionspeedandstyle.com/Union_Speed_%26_Style/Icons.html

If only I had the time to work on things like LED conversions, LOL! All my time is spent on keeping my things together and running good. I am sure you could handle it! Heck you installed your sound system!

Thanks for the info on the exhaust. I like the look of the dual tips and was just curious what you had since my stock exhaust has seen its better days (the norm for a 10 yr olf car in MN I guess)

Good luck on the quest for a reputable remote start installer. I would stay away from best buy. They have teenager losers like me working there and just want to get the cars in and out as quick as possibe. I could recommend a place around here where three brothers own it and do all their own work. Very good quality work done.

Old Skool Kustoms http://www.unionspeedandstyle.com/Union_Speed_%26_Style/Icons.html

:lol: Yeah, well your write-up was pretty good, I'm sure I could figure it out. I just need to get a soldering iron first. :uhoh:
I actually didn't install my sound system. I paid for that to be put in. :disappoin

I actually checked out Best Buy and I agree with you. They were ridiculously overpriced as well. The place I have my eye on is run by just one guy and he's a little older so my hope is that he has been doing this for a while. I'm going to go talk to him once my microwave sensor gets here.

:lol: I just need to get a soldering iron first. :uhoh:
I actually didn't install my sound system. I paid for that to be put in. :disappoin

I actually checked out Best Buy and I agree with you. They were ridiculously overpriced as well. The place I have my eye on is run by just one guy and he's a little older so my hope is that he has been doing this for a while. I'm going to go talk to him once my microwave sensor gets here.

I did worked at bad buy in the geek squad. Let me tell you, if you want your computer to run properly don't bring it there. You will end up having to buy a new computer. The kids that they get to work there have no clue what so ever. The prices are outrageous, to test memory modules it is $70.00 per stick memory.

I did worked at bad buy in the geek squad. Let me tell you, if you want your computer to run properly don't bring it there. You will end up having to buy a new computer. The kids that they get to work there have no clue what so ever. The prices are outrageous, to test memory modules it is $70.00 per stick memory.

Yeah, Best Buy is a joke.

....to test memory modules it is $70.00 per stick memory.

Yikes, I could just buy a new one for that!

Yikes, I could just buy a new one for that!


Psch! Or two or three! :shakehead

Well I just heard back from the insurance company and they're not going to touch the fog-light, DIC, or climate control lights because the dealership said that they didn't think the issue was related to my dash being torn apart. On one hand I can see their point because I have no clue how you could prove something like that, but on the other, I just find it a little beyond a coincidence that all of those things would just go out at once simply because of the age of the car. Oh well.

Regardless, I'm definitely going to attempt to repair the fog-light switch and DIC because those look simple enough. As for the climate control lights, can anyone give me any details as to how to do that? I know it was mentioned that those bulbs had to be soldered. Can anyone tell me what bulbs I'd need, can LED's be used, and any other helpful hints/suggestions?

Thank you so much.

I had a friend that was having memory issues. When I worked there it was free. He called bad buy and told him it would be $70 each stick of memory. So he just bought 2 sticks for $100. So he saved $40. The memory had free shipping.

Yes you can LED's for the bulbs for the climate control head. The only thing is that the LED has polarity. So you need to know the polarity of the bulbs that you are replacing with LEDS. Also you need a 1k ohm dropping resistor to limit current going to the led. Off of the top of my head, I can't remember what was the positive buss on the climate control head. If you can't find the solder wick I have some that I could send out to you.

How do you make the current go through the resistor before it gets to the LED? I'm picturing a circuit board with two little holes for the positive/negative LED/bulb wires. Do you just stick the bulb AND the resistor in the same two holes (bulb negative and resistor negative in one hole and bulb positive and resisitor positive in the other)? That would be parallel wiring, right? Sorry, I'm not very electrical savvy.

If you can't find the solder wick I have some that I could send out to you.

That's very kind of you! My father-in-law used to be a VCR repair man so I know he has some. Thank you though!

How do you make the current go through the resistor before it gets to the LED? I'm picturing a circuit board with two little holes for the positive/negative LED/bulb wires. Do you just stick the bulb AND the resistor in the same two holes (bulb negative and resistor negative in one hole and bulb positive and resisitor positive in the other)? That would be parallel wiring, right? Sorry, I'm not very electrical savvy.

The resistor is connected to one lead of the LED. I will see if I can find a diagram and post it for you.

The resistor is connected to one lead of the LED. I will see if I can find a diagram and post it for you.

Ok. I tried to look really carefully at Tim's post here:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=925884

And I couldn't really tell how he had them in there. So you connect one side of the resistor to one side of the LED and then the opposite sides of each are what is connected to the circuit?


Sorry for the tangents everyone. I always do that. For now on, I'll just name my threads, Another Matt Thread.

The LED can be damaged by relatively low reverse voltages. The diagram below shows how the LED package is marked for polarity. Connect the resistor to postive lead and solder the resistor lead to the plus lead of the LED. The Minus lead is the ground and the plus lead goes to the + lead of the climate control head. Hope that this clears up on how to use the LEDs.
http://www.otherpower.com/images/led_dwg.JPG http://www.otherpower.com/images/led_symbol.JPG

The resistor is connected to one lead of the LED. I will see if I can find a diagram and post it for you.

It would be a series connection. The current goes through one of the two components and then through the other. So they are daisy chained. It does not matter which order, but the polarity is important. Connect the 1K resistor to the positive terminal of your battery, then try connecting the LED from the resistor to ground. If it does not light, reverse the LED. When it lights, solder the resistor and LED together. Now you just need to find the positive source in the circuit where you want the LED to go. You connect the 1K resistor to it and the other end of the LED to ground.

Ah, ok. To cement that I understand, I drew this up. Is this correct?

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll90/Mattman_2000/Car%20Pics/LEDDiagram.gif

It would be a series connection. The current goes through one of the two components and then through the other. So they are daisy chained. It does not matter which order, but the polarity is important. Connect the 1K resistor to the positive terminal of your battery, then try connecting the LED from the resistor to ground. If it does not light, reverse the LED. When it lights, solder the resistor and LED together. Now you just need to find the positive source in the circuit where you want the LED to go. You connect the 1K resistor to it and the other end of the LED to ground.

But the way the climate control head is laid out, you have to use 1k resistor on all of the installed LEDS. That is how I re-lamped the climate control head in my 97 GP.

But the way the climate control head is laid out, you have to use 1k resistor on all of the installed LEDS. That is how I re-lamped the climate control head in my 97 GP.

Oh really? You put in all LED's on your climate control?

Ah, ok. To cement that I understand, I drew this up. Is this correct?

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll90/Mattman_2000/Car%20Pics/LEDDiagram.gif

That is perfect!!!!:smile:

That is perfect!!!!:smile:


Woo Hoo! :iceslolan Thank you so much for your help, I really appreciate it! Sorry I'm slow. :runaround:

When you did your climate control, you totally should have taken pics and posted a write-up. That would've been awesome. Do you recall how many bulbs were required? What color did you use? If I want it to look factory, should I just use white LEDs?

No problem. I fixed the climate control head before I was a member here. I found this site because I had a hub speed sensor problem and a coolant level sensor. Otherwise I would have taken pictures.

Also the LED colors that you can get is red, green, yellow, blue, and white. When I did mine I used red but I am thinking about changing the color to white or blue. Have not decided yet what colot I want to use.

One thing to consider is there is a red filter built into the climate controll unit, so if You swap the bulbs to say a blue LED, they light output from the unit will be purple in color.

So if I replaced all bulbs with white LED's, I'd still have a stock look, right?

correct!

Ordered the LED's and the security system goes in Saturday! :) The deck showed up as well as the wiring harness and dash-kit. Subs, amp, antenna adapter are on their way! I'm reborn! :lol:

Must be nice to have warm weather. Sounds nice. So what manufacture did you buy. Who did you buy the stereo stuff from.

I got everything new off eBay. I got a Sony deck, a Pyramid amp, kicker subs, and a Carvox security system. The security system I'm getting is the exact same as the Python 990, but it just has a different brand name on the transmitter. It looks the exact same.

Do these 1K resistors have to be rated for a certain wattage?

Since the current draw is minimal you can use 1/4 watt or less. The 1/4 watt resistors are easy to find. But you can use higher wattage. All the stereo stuff is good.

Cool thanks.