Battery draw, battery kill switch


ned032002
03-09-2010, 05:04 PM
I've had a battery draw that I can not figure out since I bought the car. I've gone through 2 alternators and 3 batteries. I'm considering just installing a battery kill switch on the negative terminal. Is this a good idea or not? Will I have issues with the ECU if I do this?

Something like this seems like it would work on the negative terminal
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Engine-Kill-Battery-Cutoff-Switch-for-Hot-Rods-NEW_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem53e01a64adQQitemZ36 0242111661QQptZRaceQ5fCarQ5fParts

ned032002
03-09-2010, 10:35 PM
Also, front turn signals aren't working!!??? I am stumped with this turn signal issue. I have rear signals no problem but front signals aren't blinking. I changed the bulbs, checked the relay (its clicking), and I wiggled the signal switch/lever to see if there was something loose or not making connection and nothing changed. When I push the hazards button, it clicks and I still get no front lights. I don't know what to do.

david-b
03-09-2010, 10:45 PM
Kill switch will kill all power to the ECU, making it need to reprogram itself each time you add power and start it up then. I'm not sure with DSMLink how that works then, but on stock, it goes back to a 'factory setting' where its a very conservative tune. When driving, it adjusts fuel and timing for your atmosphere conditions (ie altitude). Again, not sure with DSMLink if that all gets saved on the chip or what. Have you checked each circuit with a voltmeter to see what's pulling when off?

Check the voltage at the bulbs and see if power is at least flowing to them. Seems like it's not, but just check it out. I would also follow the loom that goes from the signals and see if at some point its damaged or cut. I'm trying to remember how on my car how they're laid out, but there may even be a connector connecting them to the main harness somewhere that may just be not connected.

ned032002
03-09-2010, 11:32 PM
Your my boy b!!

I went out and thought what the hell, lets test the wires at the bulb. Checked it....nothing...thought hey maybe bad ground....nope...? Thought hey lets try scrapping the connector and then restested with the test light...blink...blink...blink. So it turns out that all the wire connections at the bulbs were corroded to the point where they no longer made contact. The plugs are in 2 pieces, where they connect electronically is where they were corroded. Well anyways, I've got turn signals now!!!

Also, with Link v3 there's a memory chip built in so all ECU data is saved. So unhooking the battery has no effect on the ECU in my case.

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