Rabbit troubles (the furry kind)

So it appears some critters have claimed my car as home. I live in the country. I've replaced the wires to my MAP about 4 times already. All DIY at this point. Rabbits seem to favor the red and white wires. And ignore the teal-ish one. And otherwise enjoy hanging on my engine block at night or when the weather is not too kind.

Is there anyway to discourage this activity. I'm currently unemployed and only end up driving once a week at most. And it gets old quick to have to rewire the missing components every time I go to start the car. Unfortunately my replacement wire of sort is also red. Them rabbits love that wire. Fortunately that appears to be all that they've taken an interest in at the moment. Baring a mouse that made a nest in my trunk one time. He didn't stick around after the 110F summers.

Hopefully the rabbits lose interest, or otherwise die of copper poisoning. Not that I have anything against rabbits, my big dog loves them (for dinner). But where there's fur, there's eventually snakes looking for food. And it's probably only a matter of time until they lose interest in the wires and start sampling the rest of the buffet. Suggestions?

On two occasions, the rabbits were still on the engine block when I popped the hood. Two different rabbits so far. The first one was full sized and darted. The second was about 2/3rd size and coward in the corner until prodded. (I had started the car and moved it before popping the hood).

hmmmmm...... usually the beasts that chew on my cars are porcupines....... big ugly destructive things that are killing my trees if they are not killing the cars..... so I have no problem killing them.

But who wants to kill cute little bunnywabbits? I don't. :)

So try a repellant. You can make your own.

http://www.buzzle.com/articles/homemade-rabbit-repellent.html

Rodent replents should do the trick and dont put it on your engine. FOR THE LOVE OF THE SUPER TOILET DONT PUT IT NEAR THE AIR INTAKE!!!!!

Now that the weather has niced up, they haven't been back. (yet). I'm keeping the electrical kit in the car either way. The last one chewed it down low enough that I had to use those screw caps to rejoin it. And I had to double up the bridging wires to get it thick enough to use the small ones. Better odds of not needing to do an immediate repair if they only chew one wire. No new chewing since the caps went on. So far so good, I guess I've trained the two main yard rabbits not to go there now. Or the dog supplemented his dietary needs when I wasn't looking. Or when the broadband guy left the access door to under the trailer open they had relocated and I locked them under when I closed it. Or who knows.

It looks like they got extra hungry after that cold snap. And it's no longer DIY fixable. Anyone know where I can buy the map sensor connector with some wire left on it? There doesn't appear to be too many, if any semi-local junkyards for some reason.

The wire is basically nibbled down to the inner metal thing that crimps to the wire. I was thinking that I could just get some of those (pre-crimp) at radio shack, but one of them isn't coming out and it looks like it sent a sliver of metal through the casing so it's NOT going to come out. The car doesn't run / barely runs without all three map sensor wires connected. So I'm DOA until I get a part or take less than reverseable actions.

Why do they design cars that can't function if ONE sensor is offline?

Anyone know a good recipe for rabbit stew?

I called the dealership today, and it looks like that part of the wiring is part of the entire wiring for the entire engine, at a cost of $1,250 to replace the whole kit. I guess I'm DIY-ing or exploring the used market. Worst case, I guess I solder wire directly to the sensor.

I called the dealership today, and it looks like that part of the wiring is part of the entire wiring for the entire engine, at a cost of $1,250 to replace the whole kit. I guess I'm DIY-ing or exploring the used market. Worst case, I guess I solder wire directly to the sensor.

On the wiring it can be spliced in if not ate up to or into sensor.
A little time and solder gun and solder and heat shrinking tubing and sealer and tape will do the job for a few bucks.

I always solder wire splices and use heat shrink tubing and sealer on splices.
Also good auto insurance with low dectuable comp will cover things like rabbit damage plus wind and hail and running over deer and theft and vandlisum and even road hazards glass breakage.

On the rabbits the young one are good fried and old ones make good rabbit stew.
Just ask your dog how rabbits dinners taste.

Or good extermators usually have a cure for rabbits hunger pains.
We live in the country and have lot of pest problems from ants flees to coons and mice and all kinds of spiders and bugs.
We have 3 dogs plus the neighbor 2 dogs that like rabbits lunches.
But every once in a while I see one out back hopping around.

Good luck

PS
Our extermator for a small fee ever mo. takes care of 99 pecent of our pest problem.

I live in the country, cow country. No chance of extermination. They chewed up to the connector to the map sensor. And the prongs don't pull out to rewire. At least not all of them. One prong pierced the casing trying to pull it out, so replacement is needed. It is mainly when it gets cold that they hop and on and get nib-illy. Good call on the insurance, but knowing how much mine sucks, even though I do have comprehensive coverage, it's not above the insurer to triple my insurance rates. They done it before when I moved. Plus that whole paying city rates for a city you don't live within 50 miles of, because they don't have data on your city. I perish the thought of having to pay for that part every year in increased rates. I'll be adding armor to the rigging this time when a part is procured.

I live in the country, cow country. No chance of extermination. They chewed up to the connector to the map sensor. And the prongs don't pull out to rewire. At least not all of them. One prong pierced the casing trying to pull it out, so replacement is needed. It is mainly when it gets cold that they hop and on and get nib-illy. Good call on the insurance, but knowing how much mine sucks, even though I do have comprehensive coverage, it's not above the insurer to triple my insurance rates. They done it before when I moved. Plus that whole paying city rates for a city you don't live within 50 miles of, because they don't have data on your city. I perish the thought of having to pay for that part every year in increased rates. I'll be adding armor to the rigging this time when a part is procured.

call the big city scrap yard to get a connector that fits. splice this into the wire harness . use wire loom covering . place grease over the wires then cover with the loom ..I have some very thick grease, black color , never any problem they do not like this stuff..

The issue is that none of the big city yards want to disconnect that part from the entire engine. As it's is part of the engine. And apparently the Aveo is the safest car ever as none of the big city yards seem to have one. '05 or otherwise. Auto insurance might be a route, but $500 deductable doesn't make it much better than $1,250 for the part.

At this point, $60 for the sensor and soldering directly to it, might be the ONLY semi-cheap option, outside of DIY-ing a connector from an IDE cable or something. Option 2 might be using a different MAP sensor that has a harness + connector option on the cheap. I guess my rose colored glasses about chevy has been shattered at this point. Of course all of my other glasses for most of the other brands were shattered long ago. I guess my next car is a motor cycle.

The issue is that none of the big city yards want to disconnect that part from the entire engine. As it's is part of the engine. And apparently the Aveo is the safest car ever as none of the big city yards seem to have one. '05 or otherwise. Auto insurance might be a route, but $500 deductable doesn't make it much better than $1,250 for the part.

At this point, $60 for the sensor and soldering directly to it, might be the ONLY semi-cheap option, outside of DIY-ing a connector from an IDE cable or something. Option 2 might be using a different MAP sensor that has a harness + connector option on the cheap. I guess my rose colored glasses about chevy has been shattered at this point. Of course all of my other glasses for most of the other brands were shattered long ago. I guess my next car is a motor cycle.

map connector is usually specific to engine/yr. has keys to prevent working elsewere.

here in ice/snow country you can get a smashed up vehicle front end total and take what you want..this time of year up here is getting close to going to the yard with the parts list ..

I wouldn't try a different type sensor..the new/used connector you might be able to adjust for fit..

you could try radio shack for pins that would work with the sensor. solder/heat shrink the pins to engine harness..then connect..

Well it doesn't normally snow here. Although it did this year. The salvage yards seem to be primarily in the big cities except the closest big city (so that's a 200 mile round trip minimum just to browse). Of the 60+ places called yesterday, only one of those had Aveos, 3x of them, but all were selling the entire engine as a whole, with buyers already lined up. And most cars in serviceable shape find their way to Mexico in this area. All I technically need is part of the harness. Surely there's a tester or other apparatus that doesn't cost $1,250 that can be parted out.

I've been thinking about going the radio shack pin route (it exists and is < 30 miles round trip). The old connector is kind of toast, one of the pins is literally stuck in it, and of course it's the one with no wire to be spliced. And according to research the ground wire, and the first one to be devoured by rabbits. Basically end of the line for the old connector. Outside of micro-drilling it out or some such thing (don't have those tools). For that matter I don't think I have a soldering iron that works at the moment. Although I have most everything else for basic electronic work. Having suffered the rabbit jihad for that past two winters at least. I had thought that the splice caps that probably look like mushrooms to rabbits had solved it, but I guess it was just summer where the shelter of the engine block wasn't as inviting. Most of the critter habitat out here is man made. Minimal if any trees and bushes. And unfortunately my car qualifies as habitat.

radio shack will have the equipment to do all this.

we have rabbits here in the warmer months. usually the rats/chipmunks chew on the oak tree nuts..place nuts on intake for roasting then come back later for dinner. I got to blow down the engine compartment.

Well it doesn't normally snow here. Although it did this year. The salvage yards seem to be primarily in the big cities except the closest big city (so that's a 200 mile round trip minimum just to browse). Of the 60+ places called yesterday, only one of those had Aveos, 3x of them, but all were selling the entire engine as a whole, with buyers already lined up. And most cars in serviceable shape find their way to Mexico in this area. All I technically need is part of the harness. Surely there's a tester or other apparatus that doesn't cost $1,250 that can be parted out.

I've been thinking about going the radio shack pin route (it exists and is < 30 miles round trip). The old connector is kind of toast, one of the pins is literally stuck in it, and of course it's the one with no wire to be spliced. And according to research the ground wire, and the first one to be devoured by rabbits. Basically end of the line for the old connector. Outside of micro-drilling it out or some such thing (don't have those tools). For that matter I don't think I have a soldering iron that works at the moment. Although I have most everything else for basic electronic work. Having suffered the rabbit jihad for that past two winters at least. I had thought that the splice caps that probably look like mushrooms to rabbits had solved it, but I guess it was just summer where the shelter of the engine block wasn't as inviting. Most of the critter habitat out here is man made. Minimal if any trees and bushes. And unfortunately my car qualifies as habitat.

If just a problem at the plugin a quick wire around it and you will be set to go.

Well, this critter has all but moved in on my engine block. Fixed it, drove to Houston for a day. Came back, and less than 24 hours later, he chewed right through the fix. And he's getting a bit slow on the draw about scattering when I open the hood.

Anyway, this is what I rigged up for my car. All parts from radio shack. Although I got the wire a while back at home depot. Not that it matters, the rabbit finds it tasty. Even the shrink wrap. I put some yellow splice things on the wire tonight. Drilling out the center with a wizard tool (walmart dremmel). Hopefully that proves to be some form of armor.

http://home.earthlink.net/~shadow_7/car_fix.gif

Good enough to get me to the Mardi Gras in Galveston from 210 miles out. And back (~422 miles round trip). I was kind of worried about it falling off with 70mph winds at freeway speeds. But it held. And probably running better than my car did off the show room floor. A little research on MAP sensor testing and soldering, and apparently a bad map sensor can lead to engine surging. Which was a trait, when first started, i.e. cold. But doesn't seem to be an issue now with this wiring configuration.

Also the clock seemed to blink off, and then on, and reset to 1:00 with the previous rigging. The 2nd of 3 wires was only partially chewed, even though the one in front of and the one behind it was fully chewed. But it was exposed and corroded, and currently snipped to pull the original harness connector. With 3x fresh wires, kind of scary good / working. I've been averaging ~ 32mpg, maybe a hair less since having to splice things. With the current soldered / crimped wiring as pictured. I'm expecting at least 34mpg when I top off the tank after said trip. And that's with 150+ miles on the old configuration / tank of gas. Maybe even more than that.

Fixed again (and again.. and again.. and...). And quasi armor plated this time. No rabbit on board this morning.

http://home.earthlink.net/~shadow_7/car_actual.gif

Maybe I'll get out to the HW store today and top off the tank for post fix specs and other supplies. Suffice to say, then when the sensor is fully connected the car has most of it's new car pep again. When I step on the gas, it goes. And it seems to shift more logically too (more so than when I first got it). 3 little wires doing all that? Plus the clock not going twilight zone when fully connected. I'm not liking the flimsy crimp things meant for computer connections. But it seems to work and holds, at least on the short term. The thick wire (16 guage?) seems to provide most of the staying power / structure. Two pre-made spares in the glove box now. And still 4 tips to make more.

I hosed one of the first 3 as the solder got up into the crimp part. Lessons learned. And the middle one currently installed has a tiny bit in the crimp part which is why it kind of sticks out further. Now to find a way to adapter-ize them so I can lock them in there. Somehow tape doesn't seem like a good ideal. And I currently have to slide them on one by one, without the possibility to put the plastic hose cover over them as it'll knock them off. I was worried that the wind at freeway speeds would have knocked them off, but that doesn't seem to be an issue.

Good enough to somehow make it to Houston and back, but since adding those yellow splitters (hollow out) to the first wire, I've had them come off while driving twice now. Parking at BK and it stalls out which makes steering and braking interesting. Virtually no turn radius without power. And the engine is quiet enough when running that it's hard to tell that it's stopped running (in the city). And today was I came to a red light after getting off the freeway. Stalled out. Kind of drifted up into the drive of a service station and kind of out of the road, while I took the 30 seconds to reclamp the wires. So I'll be making a clamp mount type thing I guess to hold them in place. I guess the other armor plating has too high of a wind profile. But it seems a lot more like summer now (89F today) and the rabbit has found cooler lodging than my engine block for the past week or so. But I'm still checking daily with rabbit grabber thingy (old man tool) before driving off.

Good enough to somehow make it to Houston and back, but since adding those yellow splitters (hollow out) to the first wire, I've had them come off while driving twice now. Parking at BK and it stalls out which makes steering and braking interesting. Virtually no turn radius without power. And the engine is quiet enough when running that it's hard to tell that it's stopped running (in the city). And today was I came to a red light after getting off the freeway. Stalled out. Kind of drifted up into the drive of a service station and kind of out of the road, while I took the 30 seconds to reclamp the wires. So I'll be making a clamp mount type thing I guess to hold them in place. I guess the other armor plating has too high of a wind profile. But it seems a lot more like summer now (89F today) and the rabbit has found cooler lodging than my engine block for the past week or so. But I'm still checking daily with rabbit grabber thingy (old man tool) before driving off.
Walmart sells connectors that have a tapered bar in the center and screw ends. You cut off the insulation after the screw cap is on the wire. Push the wire over the tapered bar then screw the cap on it won't pull apart. Buy the ones with silicon or use a tube and coat the ends. This keeps out mud and moisture. If your not going to solder them use these. They will hand pulsed loads like a coil wire.