Our Community is 705,000 Strong. Join Us.


mysterious wire and won't fire


Pages : [1] 2

dragontrlr
02-02-2010, 01:11 PM
i set about the task of replacing the head gaskets, intake gaskets and exhaust gaskets on a 1989 dodge 318. in a van with my limited mechanical skills this took about 2 million years and 2 pounds of flesh. i have finally had the time to get everything back together. now the engine ran great prior to the dismantle. substantial foaming in radiator and water in oil but no smoke and smooth running. when i was removing all of the wiring from the top of the engine particularly the throttle body wiring there had been some mods. during all of the work one of the mod wires broke. on the back of the throttle body what i believe is the fuel injector electrical connector. a 4 wire connector. the top wire being green second a light brown/tan third off white bottom green. now here is the mystery, in the brown/tan second wire someone has splice in a wire (green) and run it by itself across the engine to the drivers side up under the dash panel. now i didnt install this wire nor did it touch it, but during the work at hand somehow that wire broke off from something under the dash. i pulled the wire cover under the steering wheel and did not see anything obvious where it broke away from. so now i go to start the engine and it wont start. it backfires excessively. when i turn the key on i hear what i believe to be the fuel pump pressuring up breifly and then silence. when i crank it it backfires and does not give any indication of wanting to start(unless it sits with the key on for a few minutes and i crank again) when i do shut the key off the TPS stutters 2-3 times. now here is the other problem. i think the plug wires are on wrong. they match the firing order/wire positions in an online diagram but i failed to mark the wires and when i reinstalled the cap i had to move the wires around to get them to fit again. (i matched to the firing order) but i believe this wiring position to be off. how can i figure out where to put the wires? and should it matter?

alloro
02-02-2010, 02:11 PM
The tan wire off the injector runs to the PCM and is the negative pulse signal wire. The only reasons I know of to tap into that wire is for an alarm, a remote starter, or a tachometer. If you have any of those, then that's what the wire is for. If you don't have any of those, then the wire could've been there from a previous installation of one that someone has since removed but left the wire in place...unattached.

alloro
02-02-2010, 02:18 PM
how can i figure out where to put the wires? and should it matter?

Yes, it matters very much. Looking down from the back of the engine, the #1 plug wire should be at about the 1:00 to 2:00 position. The cylinders are front to back on the driver's side 1,3,5,7 and front to back on the passenger's side 2,4,6,8. The firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 going clockwise around the distributor.

dragontrlr
02-02-2010, 03:05 PM
okay as far as green wire. no there is no alarm,tach etc. and i see no signs of ever having been any of the sort. so i will ignore this for a minute and get back to it later, as far as the plug wires, yes thank you for confirming cyl location and firing order. i did use that. however, i found this instruction to late mind you but ..........See Figures 1 and 2

To avoid confusion, remove and tag the spark plug wires one at a time, for replacement.

If a distributor is not keyed for installation with only one orientation, it could have been removed previously and rewired. The resultant wiring would hold the correct firing order, but could change the relative placement of the plug towers in relation to the engine. For this reason, it is imperative that you label all wires before disconnecting any of them. Also, before removal, compare the current wiring with the accompanying illustrations. If the current wiring does not match, make notes to reflect how your engine is wired.
.....................

so if this has happened or what ever may be the case. how would i find #1? during an internet search i came across a forum post from 2 years ago in another site that said something about TDC mark and a timing tab? lining these up would set the rotor at a certain point and that would be wire position #1 on the distributor. however, i cannot decipher what TDC and a timing tab are. if i simply keep the wires in the same order and move them around the cap one position at a time will they eventually line up as they should? if i do this i only have to move them a max of 7 times and crank it 7 times right????? thanks for your prompt responses

alloro
02-02-2010, 03:20 PM
TDC=Top Dead Center, or in other words, when the #1 cylinder is at it's topmost position during the compression stroke. You can find the timing marks down on the front pulley and front cover of the engine. What the instructions meant was if you rotate the engine until the line on the front pulley lined up with the TDC mark on the front timing cover, the rotor in the distributor should be pointing at the #1 plug wire/tower of the distributor cap. Mind you, at TDC the rotor can actually point at the #1 or the #6 wires since the distributor rotes once for every two engine rotations. This of course leaves you with a 50/50 chance of getting it right. There is a way to be sure, but it's much quicker and easier to just try the two wire combinations.

dragontrlr
02-02-2010, 04:05 PM
okay i think i got the wires right. crank engine and it turns over, catches for a second(doesn't actually run but the crank over speeds up) and starves out. tried cranking a few times and with same result. however, a little back fire action and a nice flame up out of the throttle body (not an explosion but like lighting a gas grill and there is a propane build up and you get the big flame for a second. also engine made a strange rumble sound after the flame went out. i hear the fuel pump run for a second when i turn the key on and there is fuel at the two hoses when i disconnect them that drips out. should they be under pressure? back to the mysterious wire?

alloro
02-02-2010, 05:12 PM
a little back fire action and a nice flame up out of the throttle body

If that's happening then the wires are not correct. A backfire is the result of a plug firing while a valve is still open. This means the plug is being fired at an incorrect time.

dragontrlr
02-02-2010, 06:09 PM
okay, i cant disagree with that, it seemed that the wires in this position it sounded better turning over and attempted to run. so i read your definition about the TDC and all. where on the front of the engine would i find this tab, and where on the pulley. i see looking down at the front of the engine some type of tube on the top left of the main crank pulley but i cant see in it. there also appears to be a tube exactly the same on the under side. is there any other mechanical way to line things up to find #1? also would my theory of moving the wires around the cap and cranking it work?

alloro
02-02-2010, 07:46 PM
okay, i cant disagree with that

You could, but you'd be wrong. :iceslolan
Yes you can keep shifting the wires around the distributor like you suggested. The danger in that, as you've already experienced, is backfire and flames.

As for the timing marks, you'd be looking for something like in this picture.
https://w05.dealerconnect.chrysler.com/service/mds2002/serviceInfo/en_US/800128a9.gif

dragontrlr
02-02-2010, 08:12 PM
mans gotta build fire you know. thanks for the pic, i will head out to the garage in the AM and try and get this set right. now just to double check this picture looks like a surpentine style set up. i figure its the same for my mulitiple v belts?

alloro
02-03-2010, 10:02 AM
this picture looks like a serpentine style set up. i figure its the same for my multiple v belts?

Yeah sorry, I should've specified that this is a generic picture just to give you an idea of what you're looking for.

dragontrlr
02-03-2010, 01:14 PM
well i have looked and looked. i do not see anything anywhere on that engine that has TDC stamped. on the bottom of the engine i see a scale that has marks including 10 and 20. this is lined up with a 2" long tube i referred to earlier. the pulley in question shown in the picture has stamped wedges in it (4 of them 1/4 each) these wedges only stamped in the front half of the pulley not a complete alignment mark as pictured.

dragontrlr
02-03-2010, 02:07 PM
okay after pulling the smog pump and the hydro steering pump and bracket i was able to find something to work with. plug wires are now i believe lined up. (i had them lined up right despite the back fire) and yes i did check to make sure that was #1 and not #6. when i reversed them no firing at all. so i have to guess fuel starving. you indicated that the tan wire was a negative pulse wire to the ECM. what if they had to bypass for some reason i.e. tan wire got cut somewhere so they spliced in. where is the ECM or what does it look like?

alloro
02-03-2010, 05:15 PM
The PCM should be mounted in the engine compartment to the firewall near the dipstick and the wiper motor.

Here's one on eBay, just so you can see what it looks like.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350235009794&crlp=1_263602_263622&ff4=263602_263622&viewitem=&guid=69c2bf1f1240a0b582e226a2fff2a0d7&rvr_id=&ua=WVI7&itemid=350235009794

dragontrlr
02-03-2010, 06:24 PM
okay i see that in the engine compartment. so green wire is not bypassing anything to get to that. engine turns over, after a few cranks if you will, engine fires. immediately dies as if cut off the minute it fires. inorder to get it to fire again you have to turn it over a few times. is there any way to test the wires at the tbi body? found some instructions at autozone but i have no idea what wires are what color. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?chapterTitle=Throttle+Body+ Injection+System&partName=Fuel+System&pageId=0900c15280077638&partId=0900c1528007761f
just seems odd that after reassemble it has fuel delivery problem and i have a stray wire broken right at fuel delivery wires. i did find another broken rigged wire. it is a tan with brown stripe, it appears to come from the throttle position sensor and has been cut? inside the wiring harness right there it looks like two of the same color wires have been twisted together. this is not something new although i cannot decide if all three wires were connected and one broke loose from the other two or if this splice is a bypass. i cant believe this is any of the cause i have to believe this is a fuel delivery issue. pressure builds up engine fires pressure instantly lost. when engine fires/dies it cuts straight out it doesnt cough out

alloro
02-03-2010, 06:54 PM
You don't happen to have one of those white ballast resistors bolted to the firewall, do you?

alloro
02-03-2010, 07:00 PM
engine turns over, after a few cranks if you will, engine fires. immediately dies as if cut off the minute it fires.

Can you keep it running by spraying short quick bursts of carb cleaner or starting fluid into the throttle body?

dragontrlr
02-03-2010, 07:10 PM
You don't happen to have one of those white ballast resistors bolted to the firewall, do you?

who knows. what is a white ballast resistor? (in a 1989 van nothing is white anymore):iceslolan:iceslolan:sarcasmsign:

battery dead from me cranking over and over. currently charging so i will attempt to get it to continue to "run" with fluids/other in the AM when it is charged.

dragontrlr
02-03-2010, 07:31 PM
okay looked up the resistor on autozone, so i know what one looks like. have no idea where it would be but i looked under hood at every inch of firewall that i can see flashlight and all i see no part that looks like a rectangular ceramic box with two wires. additionally i searched under the dash on the drivers side thru all those wires and i see nothing there as well.

alloro
02-04-2010, 09:42 AM
i looked under hood at every inch of firewall

If it's not there on the firewall then you don't have one. I was just double checking to be sure.

dragontrlr
02-04-2010, 10:48 AM
okay, start engine it catches i spray wd-40 it fires. i stop it goes back to just cranking. tried several times same thing everytime. also no backfiring anymore. did that code check thing it came back 12, 24, 55. i know 12 is battery, and 55 is end of codes. so it initially gets fuel, it has spark, it appears the wires are in the right spot, just starves itself during cranking.

alloro
02-04-2010, 11:05 AM
start engine it catches i spray wd-40 it fires.

Okay, don't do that anymore...WD-40 is an oil and you're risking damage to your catalytic converter by burning it. Only use carb cleaner or starting fluid.

Well at least we've established that the ignition is working and your problem is fuel delivery. Also, that code 24 indicates a problem with the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor). A problem with the TPS can effect fuel delivery. Were any of the three wires to the TPS also modified or cut in any way?

dragontrlr
02-04-2010, 11:22 AM
yes as i stated earlier it appeared that the brown/tan stripe wire had been cut? and in the harness these two wires were twisted together and soldered.

alloro
02-04-2010, 11:51 AM
There is no brown or tan wire going to the TPS. You should have an OR/DB, BK/LB, and a VT. The OR/DB is the signal wire, BK/LB is negative, and the VT is positive.

I find it odd that these twisted/soldered pair of wires are the same colors as the fuel injector wire that was tapped into.

dragontrlr
02-04-2010, 12:46 PM
There is no brown or tan wire going to the TPS. You should have an OR/DB, BK/LB, and a VT. The OR/DB is the signal wire, BK/LB is negative, and the VT is positive.

I find it odd that these twisted/soldered pair of wires are the same colors as the fuel injector wire that was tapped into.

no the twisted wire is not the same color as the tan wire tapped into. the splice that bypasses the TPS is brown/white stripe. there is a plug in harness just above the TPS the brown/white wire comes out of here and is twisted into the wire in the main harness.

tps wires from front to back. black/bl stripe, green, brown/white stripe cut

top plug above TPS brown/white stripe spliced, orange/blue stripe black blue stripe

dragontrlr
02-04-2010, 12:49 PM
so based on your colors the two plugs are in backwards or reversed. when i flip them the engine cranks better(races longer during crank) does not actually start and run, did however blow back flame thru the TBI

dragontrlr
02-04-2010, 01:18 PM
lost post. swapped wires to match your colors, engine finally did start, idle ran up for a second and then settled down. new codes are 12,13,42,55. have not put load on engine yet but when idle settles down idle is smooth and throttle is responsive.

alloro
02-04-2010, 03:28 PM
So it's running all on it's own now?

That code 13 has to do with the MAP sensor which is probably the other plug you just swapped with. I would disconnect the battery for 10 minutes to clear out the codes, then run it and see if the codes return.

dragontrlr
02-04-2010, 04:06 PM
yes for now it appears to be running all on its own now. like i said the idle jumps and takes a while to settle, and i have the check engine , maint req lights staying on permanently now which is new. i am going to pull it out of the garage and see if it works under a load and also to get the temp up. this whole project started because i had that crazy foaming coming out of the radiator if you will recall, so i need to see if we are all fixed up on that. as far as the 13 code. i didnt have that code when i had the wires hooked up backward and it is now the connector that had the cut wire. the good news is it starts and that much has been sorted out with your help, but i want to know what fool makes two of the same electrical connector and puts them right next to each other and doesnt color coordinate them so idiots like me can so easily hook them up backwards. why a black plug for a grey map sensor and a grey plug for a black TPS???? anyway enough of that frustration. could the mystery wire have bypassed something to prevent the maint light from coming on?

alloro
02-04-2010, 04:11 PM
could the mystery wire have bypassed something to prevent the maint light from coming on?

Unfortunately I don't know.

dragontrlr
02-04-2010, 04:16 PM
well its running for now regardless so thanks for the help cross fingers that all else was repaired

dragontrlr
02-10-2010, 07:22 PM
ha. the engine only fooled me. it will start when cold and idle but not in gear, as it warms up the idle settles down and will actually idle in and out of gear. as engine gets hot back to no longer idling in gear and when finally when engine is hot will not start.

all thru this process engine is hard start but once cranked idles smooth.

checked all wires. checked map sensor it tests out. tested injectors they test. tested coil 12.8 when running, tested dist voltage 8.9v. EGR functions.

fault codes change each time i start engine and sometimes shows no codes at all except 12,55

tested TPS 5.0v on main .96-3.78 on secondary as throttle sweeps.

engine acts like it is starved for fuel during starting and acts like it is flooding when running.

when i look down in TBI i see an awful lot of fuel spraying.

alloro
02-10-2010, 08:03 PM
ha. the engine only fooled me. it will start when cold and idle but not in gear, as it warms up the idle settles down and will actually idle in and out of gear. as engine gets hot back to no longer idling in gear and when finally when engine is hot will not start.

Those symptoms point to a defective coolant temperature sensor, so you might want to test it, or at least inspect the wiring going to it. It's a 2-wire sensor screwed into the top of the intake manifold next to the t-stat housing.

When cold (50-80 degrees) the ohms should be 10,800-17,900. When hot (180-200 degrees) the ohms should be 1,170-820. It's in a difficult spot, so it's easier to test if you take it out and use cold water and a heat gun to vary the temperature.

dragontrlr
02-10-2010, 08:10 PM
Those symptoms point to a defective coolant temperature sensor, so you might want to test it, or at least inspect the wiring going to it. It's a 2-wire sensor screwed into the top of the intake manifold next to the t-stat housing.

When cold (50-80 degrees) the ohms should be 10,800-17,900. When hot (180-200 degrees) the ohms should be 1,170-820. It's in a difficult spot, so it's easier to test if you take it out and use cold water and a heat gun to vary the temperature.

just to verify. there is that kind of jump in the resistance? 10k down to 1k? i know exactly where the sensor in question is so i will test it tommorow morning.

alloro
02-10-2010, 08:26 PM
that kind of jump in the resistance?

It's not a jump, it's gradual, the hotter the tip of the sensor gets, the lower the resistance across it's two terminals. If the sensor, it's connector, or the wiring is defective and the resistance is always high, then the PCM thinks the engine is cold and richens the mixture, just like a choke on an older carburetor engine. This is fine when the engine is cold, but as it warms up the mixture needs to lean out but doesn't if the resistance doesn't change.

dragontrlr
02-10-2010, 09:25 PM
i assumed it was a sweeping change but i wanted to double check that you didnt have a typo sweeping from 10k down to 1k.

dragontrlr
02-11-2010, 01:30 PM
engine fired up and idled in gear again. backed it out to work on it. once hot just wont run in gear and has trouble idling in park.

pulled temp unit. 13k cold 1100 hot. around 6k while heating it up. 4.97v at sensor wires with key in run position.

so that scraps that theory. i will say this. when it does crank the idle races up and slowly settles down. idle seems a little high with air cleaner off. if i block off the vacuum hose that goes to the air cleaner body the idle drops down.

the computer codes say TPS and the engine acts like it is either the TPS or the AIS motor. but the wires to the TPS check out good and the voltage is good to the sensor.
the back signal voltage ranges smoothly

alloro
02-11-2010, 02:47 PM
Boy oh boy do I wish you were close to me. This is really starting to test my patience. Don't take that wrong, it's nothing to do with you, it's just that all of this back and forth is so slow sometimes. If I could get my hands on it, that engine would be screaming in no time flat.

Anyways...I think it might be time to reinvestigate the possibility that the spark plug wires are not correct on the distributor cap. When looking straight down at the distributor from the back of the engine.

What o' clock position is the #1 plug wire in?
Then in what order are the rest of them going clockwise, starting at the #1?

dragontrlr
02-11-2010, 03:26 PM
the #1 is in the 12 oclock positon, actually to be technical i would say 2 min to 12. then clockwise and i checked twice 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2

alloro
02-11-2010, 04:15 PM
Indulge me and move them all one tower to the right and see if the engine runs better.

dragontrlr
02-11-2010, 04:48 PM
no engine would not crank at all

alloro
02-11-2010, 05:16 PM
no engine would not crank at all

Explain please... The engine doesn't turn at all, or does it turn and stop?
Is the battery run down again?

What about if you move all of the spark plug wires 4 towers to the right (180 degrees) instead of just one on the distributor cap...does the engine start?

dragontrlr
02-11-2010, 05:25 PM
i have a ton of fuel spray on these injectors. at idle the inside of the TBI is soaked, did i say soaked? soaked and there is a spray not a mist. as i open throttle it increases. when butterflies are closed they are "sheeted" with fuel.

every time it stalls if i sit with the key off count to 20 it cranks back up. if i dont wait after it stalls it is hard to crank.

checked all 8 plugs all dry and black. 5,7 starting to turn brown. before repairs plugs were all brown.
if i pull off the delivery hose and turn the key on i get a dollap of fuel. i say dollap because it doesnt shoot across the room, but way more than a little trickle of fuel.

if i disconnect the return line and turn the key, fuel will shoot out about 4 inches and stop.

dragontrlr
02-11-2010, 05:34 PM
Explain please... The engine doesn't turn at all, or does it turn and stop?
Is the battery run down again?

What about if you move all of the spark plug wires 4 towers to the right (180 degrees) instead of just one on the distributor cap...does the engine start?

okay engine turns over but i mean no start, no attempt no backfire nothing just engine turning over.

battery is run down at moment and on charger, if i move all 4 positions that would put #1 at #6. i have been there before. but will it again.

no no crank when switched.

back to my original engine cranks up. idles but wont idle in gear

alloro
02-11-2010, 05:46 PM
battery is run down at moment and on charger, if i move all 4 positions that would put #1 at #6. i have been there before. but will it again.

no no crank when switched.

Your answer is confusing to me. If the battery has to charge then how could you have done the 4 tower switch and written both of these remarks in the same post?

alloro
02-11-2010, 05:49 PM
i have a ton of fuel spray on these injectors.

All the more reason to verify the spark plug wires and timing are correct. Excessive fuel is a sign that the spark timing is retarded.

When you pulled the heads, you didn't change the timing chain and gears did you?

dragontrlr
02-11-2010, 05:52 PM
had battery on quick charge and installed tested your wire before i finished reply.

dragontrlr
02-11-2010, 05:55 PM
All the more reason to verify the spark plug wires and timing are correct. Excessive fuel is a sign that the spark timing is retarded.

When you pulled the heads, you didn't change the timing chain and gears did you?

no did not touch timing chain. did not remove dist.

the extra fuel is coming from the injectors not necessarily accumulating.

i will tell you this. when i lined up mark on pulley with the 0 mark ( mine doesnt say TDC) the rotor does not line up perfectly with the wire tower.

alloro
02-11-2010, 06:01 PM
when i lined up mark on pulley with the 0 mark ( mine doesnt say TDC) the rotor does not line up perfectly with the wire tower.

It should.

dragontrlr
02-11-2010, 06:15 PM
It should.

it should say TDC instead of 0 or it should line up perfectly. if it should line up perfectly and nothing on the timing end has been touched how do i get them to line up? the cap is fixed in it can only be installed on one spot.

engine cranks up just wont run in load. but i pulled one wire at a time from cap and nothing changes in engine sound. pull two at a time engine coughs. the spark from wire to cap is a little more orange than blue. the contact where the spark meets the wire and cap are blue/white. put that 1/2" spark is not.

i checked the voltage to the hall effect. 8.97v on one wire and 5v on the other.

dragontrlr
02-11-2010, 06:54 PM
if i loosen the dist and turn it clockwise a few degrees to wheget the rotor and #1 to line up, when engine is sitting at the zero mark on the pulley, engine wont crank, as i turn the engine over and slowly turn the dist counterclockwise back to the original position it cranks up. once running if i turn dist back clockwise engine bogs down.

tried lining up again and starting over at zero mark but battery now dead and on charger.

alloro
02-11-2010, 09:05 PM
There is something so odd going on here...
Do you have a compression tester? If so, spot check a couple of the cylinders and see what you're getting for PSI readings.

alloro
02-11-2010, 09:16 PM
it should say TDC instead of 0 or it should line up perfectly.

The mark on the pulley should line up perfectly with zero.

dragontrlr
02-11-2010, 09:55 PM
mark lines up perfectly with zero and is not exactly on the location for #1. unfortunately i do not have a compression tester. a funny thing happened that i have never recalled hearing before, when i was looking at the spark directly at the plug on #1 obviously the plug was out and i was cranking over. engine fired and the "woofing" sound startled me. i just never had an engine actually start with a plug out. it didnt spray anything nor did it bark or flame.

question about these injectors. should they be tapping/pulsing or constant spray? should i be able to hear them. any reason why there would be two different style injectors for this vehicle? i have an extra TBI and i pulled the injectors from it just to swap out with the ones in the van and they are different.(every part of the TBI is identical but the injectors/openings)

alloro
02-12-2010, 10:09 AM
Since your distributor is pointing to 12:00 instead of 1:00 to 2:00 when the pulley mark is at zero there's a chance the timing chain jumped a couple of teeth. It's also possible someone removed the distributor drive gear at some point and installed it wrong. A compression test would confirm this issue one way or the other. With initially having tried to run the engine with the plug wires in the wrong locations, the backfiring could've caused the timing chain to jump if it is worn enough.

As to the injectors, perhaps they're just different manufacturers.

dragontrlr
02-12-2010, 10:57 AM
the wires were like this prior to the gasket repairs. if you recall i didnt mark them and had to go thru all the hassle earlier in the post to get them right. i have also read in other forums that others have had their wires be in different positions as well. and the autozone repair online talks about it being a problem with some distributors not lining up at certain point

both sets of injectors are bosch. and they one set is longer than the other. anyway
i am without timing light and dont know what the timing is for this van so i have to figure out how to reset the dist.

will see if i can find a way to borrow compression tester from someone.

is there any way to test the pulse of a injector? i have tested the resistance to the ECM and ASD both good. i have tested voltage from ASD good for about 2 seconds, but how do i test to see if the injectors are actually receiving a pulse signal instead of a constant voltage.

dragontrlr
02-12-2010, 11:22 AM
the wires were like this prior to the gasket repairs. if you recall i didnt mark them and had to go thru all the hassle earlier in the post to get them right. i have also read in other forums that others have had their wires be in different positions as well. and the autozone repair online talks about it being a problem with some distributors not lining up at certain point

both sets of injectors are bosch. and they one set is longer than the other. anyway
i am without timing light and dont know what the timing is for this van so i have to figure out how to reset the dist.

will see if i can find a way to borrow compression tester from someone.

is there any way to test the pulse of a injector? i have tested the resistance to the ECM and ASD both good. i have tested voltage from ASD good for about 2 seconds, but how do i test to see if the injectors are actually receiving a pulse signal instead of a constant voltage.

alloro
02-12-2010, 11:27 AM
how do i test to see if the injectors are actually receiving a pulse signal instead of a constant voltage.

Some of the more moderate to expensive scan tools will give a readout of the injector pulse widths. Other than that, you will need an oscilloscope. The pulse is too fast (3-4 ms at idle) for a volt meter to read it.

dragontrlr
02-12-2010, 11:49 AM
i personally think this is fuel related but for one second lets back up and look at spark.

i have 8.94 volts going to dist. i dont know how to test the hall effect to see if its dropping to 0 and all. but visual inspection shows al wires free of damage, cracks etc. the sensor itself is spotless, the brass colored cup with the the tabs in the dist is spotless an corrosion free. when running i get 12+volts at terminal on coil. but lets say spark is weak and not burning the fuel instead of the theory of too much fuel getting to engine

alloro
02-12-2010, 02:44 PM
lets say spark is weak and not burning the fuel instead of the theory of too much fuel getting to engine

If you suspect the coil, take it off and bring it to the auto parts store for testing.

Add your comment to this topic!