Passlock or something more?

I have checked the battery and all fuses. The car will not start. It will crank but dies as soon as i release the key. The security light on the dash does come on when the key is turned on but it goes off after about 3 or 4 seconds.
I have tried the relearn sequence and cant get it to crank.

In addition I have other things that do not work
interior light
Remote key-less entry
Remote trunk release
Button inside car to release trunk


However things like these do work:
Electric seats
Head lights
Brake lights
turn signals
flashers

I have read all the threads but do not know what info would apply to me. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
jim

the ignition switch may be bad or someone tampered with it. HERE IS THE FIX!!! STICK YOUR KEY IN IGNITION IN ON POSITION. THIS MAY TAKE 30 MINS THE SECURITY LIGHT WILL STOP FLASHING. turn off car then start. happen top me i google for hours bought a book and so on. anyways i figured it out on my own. i ended up replacing my ignition switch. find a scrap yard look for a malabu monte carlo grandam find the same key set up make sure you have the real key no copies. also to let you know if you get a copy if its not dead nuts it destrys your ignition switch. dealership wanted 400 + instalation fees. i spent a total of 8 dollars. go to a scrap yard. take out raido then on then take out the insterment cluster youll see 3 screws remove them. bty the key has to be in it in on posistion ignition switch is set up this way so you cant just jump in a car and swap ignition switch to steel it. the cord in back will release. then you have it. if you only want the lock cylinder then you need to crank to on then you will notice a small button press it slide out cylinder. i hope everyone who reads this post has success.

hi,
Thanks for the reply. I tried that before i started this thread and it doesn't work. My security light does not blink. It comes on and goes off after a few seconds when i try to crank it.

replace the ignition switch im 98% sure its your issue.

Possibly the ignition switch, but I would lean more towards a fuel pump or clogged fuel filter.
Can you hear the fuel pump run for a few seconds after the key is turned to "run"?
What engine do you have?
I agree with you that this doen't sound like a passlock issue, since the security light would continue to flash if passlock was disabling the fuel injectors.

I have the 2.4 in it. It has 54,000 miles on it.
The previous owner had installed a new cd player in it. There have been no other modifications to the car.


The pump runs when the switch is turned to on. When the key is in on position there are no lights in the dash except service engine soon. Once i try to crank it, it will turn over but dies after i release the key. Security light goes out in a few seconds and does not blink.

How would the fuel pump or a clogged filter cause the interior light, door locks, trunk release and key-less entry to stop working? THis all happened at the same time it wouldn't crank.

Double check ALL fuses. If they are all OK then you need to check the ign. and acc. wires. There are 4 total. white and pink are ignition. Orange and brown are acc.

double checked all fuses still will not stay cranked, where do i check the ing and acc wires. I have pulled radio and instrument cluster and have access to switch. I don't want' to cut any wires until I get it cranked...other options for checking pass lock system

How would the fuel pump or a clogged filter cause the interior light, door locks, trunk release and key-less entry to stop working? THis all happened at the same time it wouldn't crank.

Of course it wouldn't! :smile: I didn't know all the symptoms started at the same time.

There really isn't any way to check passlock. Passlock has nothing to do with the interior lights or trunk release, I don't think you have a passlock problem.

I would also start checking grounds, maybe there is a common ground for the truck and interior items.

OK guys...I have replaced the ignition. Still same problem.
Im going to summarize so you don't have to go back and reread anything.
Security light does NOT flash
It lights up but goes out after a couple seconds
car will crank but not run once i release the key
the remote will not lock/unlock doors or open the trunk
it will not set off panic button either
the interior light does not come on when the doors open.
headlights work as do power windows
i can hear the fuel pump come on when i turn the switch.

Here's some obvious suggestions, before you go and spend a lot more money:
Check the interior light bulb.
Try a different remote, and a new remote battery. Sorry, I don't mean to imply that you are dumb by these ideas, but the remote/light issue could be unrelated to the starting issue.

Crank it, then remove a spark plug, check for fuel on the end. If it is dry, remove another. If both dry, either the injectors aren't opening (which could be passlock related), or there is a blockage somewhere.

If the plug is wet, test for spark by grounding the plug on the block and cranking the engine while watching the end of the plug. Of course you will want to let the fuel dry first!

It can be that there are multiple causes for your probs. Only way to eliminate fuel pump pressure as a problem is to borrow/buy a fuel pressure gauge and test fuel pressure. Even though you hear fuel pump run for a few seconds when you turn key-on, it may not be making pressure high enough (should be > 47 psi). Mine (3.4L v6) runs at 57 psi since I replaced the fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator at ~130,000miles. You could also check the fuel-pressure regulator, take off the vacuum line to it and see if there is gas in vaccum line; if so FPR is bad.
Also, aleros are known to have drainage problems where rainwater or condenstation flows down onto body-control module (BCM) which could be affecting the trunk/lights/doorlocks etc. BCM is under dash on passenger's side; check connectors for water/corrosion, sometimes just cleaning up connectors can fix it. If you have sunroof this is common problem.

Here's some more info, hope it helps:

Check battery in the remote, should be a CR2032, for 3.0 volts. If you have other/spare remote, does that one still work?

And, you could try remote keyless entry programming:
Transmitter Programming
Important

Once the remote control door lock (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/##)receiver enters the programming/diagnostic mode, the programming of the first transmitter erases all previous transmitter programming information. You must then program all of the transmitters.

Up to 4 transmitters may be programmed.

To program the transmitters, perform the following procedure while seated in the vehicle driver's seat:

1. Close all the vehicle doors.
2. Remove the ignition key from the ignition lock cylinder.
3. Press and hold unlock on the door lock switch.

Important
To successfully enter the keyless entry (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/##)programming/diagnostic mode, steps 4 through 6 must be completed within 25 seconds of pressing the door unlock switch.

4. While holding the door lock switch in the unlock position, insert and remove the ignition key twice. Do not rotate the ignition lock cylinder.
5. Insert the ignition key a third time leaving the key in the ignition lock cylinder. The ignition must remain in the LOCK position for the rest of the procedure.
6. Release the door lock switch. The chime will sound three chimes to signal that transmitter programming/diagnostic mode is active.
7. Press and hold the lock and unlock buttons at the same time on the keyless entry transmitter for approximately 4 seconds. The chime will sound two times to signal that the transmitter has been programmed successfully.
8. Repeat step 7 for the rest of the transmitters (for a total of 4 transmitters).
9. To exit the transmitter programming/diagnostic mode perform either of the following:
Remove the ignition key from the ignition switch, or
Turn the ignition switch to the RUN position.

A few years ago, my remote quit working, it turned out that the metal clip which held the battery in place had a broken solder joint. I re-soldered it twice, then ended up getting a couple new ones, and re-programming per procedure above. Hope this helps.

I've had that same battery clip solder joint fail on 3 of my remotes, it's just a bad design.
The fuel pressure regulator is about $70, I think. Autozone or any auto parts store will have it, and it isn't that hard to change. Definitely pull the line from the top and see if you smell/see gas, as skeeter123 said.

Well, you are now at the point where you'll need to have it hooked up to a computer/scanner to "see" what the ECM is doing.

Where I'm at the Autozones and AdvanceAuto stores will loan you a scanner to use in their parking lot. Note that low or no fuel pressure will not set a code.

yes