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93' Not starting
01-13-2010, 01:20 AM
93' Ford Escort LX 1.9 Auto
How it started/symptoms:
I've had a long hard day with little sleep so later this may change some when I get a chance to look at it again. I woke up this morning and when I attempted to start it sounded like the starter was staying engaged, so I aborted, twice, it was in the twenties BTW, stranger things have happened I suppose, on the third attempt nothing happened though, there was a relay clicking on the firewall ( apparently the A/C Relay? WTH? Maybe it was the WOT cut out? ) and the fan comes on breifly when ignition is on ( can't recall if that's normal, since it's rubbing a little today ).
What I've done/found/replaced/screwed up so far/tested & results:
I replaced the relay and the one next to it on the bracket attached to the passenger side out of a 96' ( Looks like it was the A/C and WOT cut out, didn't know as some parts folks were telling me it had a "remote solenoid on the firewall", WTH they were cheap enough though. ), I also replaced the BTN under the drivers seat because I apparently made a serious error probing that first relay ( A/C? ) and the BTN began to make an awful clicking sound even with the key off ( still don't know WTH a BTN is, so please enlighten me if you do ), I checked all of the fuses and they appear to be fine, vehicle still doesn't start normal, however I can bump the starter with a wire and the vehicle will start and run, though it does surge a little at first all appears to be OK, well for a 93' Escort that is. The surging is an ongoing intermittent issue which I have already paid Ford too much money to NOT fix.
Request for assistance:
Any ideal why it will not start just using the key and what I should do from here to get it fixed? Obviously I could easily add a momentary switch to start, but I'd like to resolve it in another manner if I can do so reasonably ( without having to pull the steering as I don't have a puller ATM, but I can/have taken the casing off without doing so before, though it wasn't real easy. ) and in a reasonably short period of time. I'd like to check the ignition switch but I'm not sure what I should be expecting, so if you can provide that information it surely will be useful.
01-13-2010, 11:01 PM
My initial guess is a bad ignition switch.
If you have the know-how... disconnect the ignition switch and use some jumpers to start the car. If it works normally then replace the switch.
If you don't have the know-how... don't attempt it or you might fry something.
01-13-2010, 11:10 PM
I agree with mightymoose. Since the starter wouldn't shut down and it jumps good with a hot wire to the solenoid Its indicative of a bad switch. The relays you mention are the AC and starter relay on the passenger side of the firewall. The starter relay is closest to the fender. It can be jumped with a paper clip. I don't know what a BTN is either. The ignition switch could be the fault of the other things you mention since the main power source for many components go through it. Many 93 Escorts have been plagued with bad starter switches. If you go to the dealer he will want to sell you the whole thing for $123. You can get just the ignition switch at your parts jobber for about $23.
01-14-2010, 06:30 AM
It does sound like a bad contact at the ignition switch but bear in mind that it could also be the transmission range sensor/switch (allows the vehicle to start only when in park or neutral).
If you do fit a separate Start switch even just as a temporary measure then be sure to leave the old wire attached to the solenoid 'S' terminal (that's the thinnest wire out of the three which attach to the starter/solenoid assembly) because if it's removed then the cooling fan circuit will no longer operate - the coil of the cooling fan power relay completes its path to ground via that lead and then via the windings of the starter motor - there's no problem in adding a separate Start switch just so long as the old wire remains in place.
I don't have wiring diagrams for the '93 but these are for the '95, which I believe should be the same as yours. Not shown on this diagram but I think the black/dark blue wire changes to black/yellow as it enters the transmission range switch:
'95 1.9L starter wiring diagram - pt.1 (http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x64/Selectron/Escort/95-starter-01.png)
'95 1.9L starter wiring diagram - pt.2 (http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x64/Selectron/Escort/95-starter-02.png)
01-14-2010, 03:51 PM
OK, the results are in, I couldn't find in information in the Hanyes manual so once again I had to risk shorting other components ( Gee, thanks Hanyes! ), sadly the above wasn't any help with that either since it only shows one wire coming out of the switch, just as the Hanyes, there are seven wires.
Anyway, when I disconnected the top connecter for the ignition switch I was able to determine +12V, everything else showed as -12V, which is what makes things nerve racking, so I cross my toes while I shorted the +12v ( Blue/Red ) with the Black/White and I got nothing, when I shorted it with the Red/Black the starter turns.
So, based on that information we have an ignition switch problem here.
I found this part to be cheapest and in stock at Pep-Boys $23.99, Napa had one they could order for $24.49 and one in stock for $54.99, the rest where between $52 and $54 ( Advance, Autozone and O'reilly's ) and you can forget about Advance Auto's price matching, now they are saying the part has to have the same warranty, be of the same quality ( value vs. premium, etc. ) I went through this with them when I tried to get them to match Napa's lowest price.
BTW, good reply on that switch ideal Selectron, had I went that way I probably would have jumped it at the ignition switch unless the wires sorted somewhere, but that's valuable information for anyone that may have to do so because of a short they can't locate.
Thank you all for the replies.
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