97 escort, 2.0 soch timing belt


taunop
12-30-2009, 12:27 PM
Hi
got a problem with my timing belt.

Its broken and I have bough a new one but I am in touble of replacing it. From what I have seen , it looks like I will have to remove the other belt and maybe even the crankshaft pulley.
The manual says that for installation , when I am done with positioning the belt, I should install the crankshaft pulley, but it never says to remove it. ( I assume I will have to remove it, right?) Am i going to need any special tool for this?

It says to rotate the engine twice, but that piece of steel is strong like rock, cant move it an inch with hands. In a video about valve adjustments they rotate the engine but dont show how. The mechanic was using a wrench. In which pulley do I use this wrench?

The most important, the alignment:
I am not sure if some circle in the Cylinder head gear has the mark properly set. There is a circle in it. Is it the mark?

If i remove the crankshaft pulley, how do I put it back in the same position that it was? Remember that the belt was broken and the engine parts are not aligned any more.


The car has been in parking lot for 1 week now, and I had to buy the belt walking in snow for 1 hour. My only jewel is broken. 180.000 miles in it.

A thousands thanks in advance.

Intuit
12-30-2009, 03:55 PM
Some advice would be to put the damper bolt for the crankshaft back on using an air tool. Made the mistake of not using one several years back and had the damper bolt begin to back-off after many thousands of miles. Had to buy a new damper because the key in the crankshaft carved it up like a thanksgiving day turkey.

As for your assumptions, I assume they're correct. ;)

After verifying the directional turn of the engine several, several times, I got the damper bolt off using the starter motor. Had positioned the torque bar up against a block of wood and kept all body-parts out of the way incase it slipped. (of course push-held the socket onto the bolt though)

You may keep finding that your timing is off the mark by one tooth once you snug things up and even before you turn it over. To counter, you may have to intentionaly set your timing off a tooth before snugging things up. The "backside" of the belt going straight from the cam to the crank is what you'll want to make sure has zero slack.

That torque bar, socket and damper bolt by the way, will also be handy for turning the engine over manually.

If you don't do this kind of work regularly, it may help to have a "spotter" with you... that is someone who is experienced. Don't let him/er do all the work though. After all, teach a man to fish...

Davescort97
12-30-2009, 07:10 PM
Try this step by step procedure:

1. Disconnect the negative battery termial.
2. Remove the accessory drive belt. Remove the drivebelt tensioner center bolt and remove the tensioner.
3. Remove the timing belt cover. It will be necessary to remove the engine mount to remove the timing belt cover. Support the engine under the oil pan with a jack and block of wood and remove the upper left hand engine mount.
4. Use a socket and breaker bar on the cranskshaft damer bolt and rotate the engine clockwise until the timing mark on the camshaft pullley is aligned with the one on the cylinder head and the crankshaft pulley mark is aligned with the Top Dead Center mark on the oil pump housing.
5. Loosen the belt tensioner bolt, pry the tensioner to one side and retighten the bolt to hold the tensioner in place.
6. Remove the spark plugs.
7. Jack up the front end and place it under jack stands. Remove the splash shield from the passenger side of the vehicle.
8. Hold the crankshaft pulley from turning with a strap wrench and remove the crankshaft dampener bolt, then remove the crankshaft pulley.
9. Remove the timing belt. Both sqare and round teeth belts have been used on this particular model. Make sure the replacement belt is the same.

Installation:

1. Starting at the crankshaft install a new belt in a counterclockwise direction ofer the pulleys. Be sure to keep the belt span from the crankshaft to the camshaft tight while installing it over the remaining pulleys.
2. Loosen the belt tensioner attatching bolt so the tensioner snaps into place against the belt.
3. Install the crankshaft damper and bolt and torque it to 74 lbs./ ft.
4. Rotate the crankshaft 2 complete revolutions clockwise and stop on the second revolution at the point where the crankshaft sprocket teturns to the TDC position. Verify that the camshaft sprocket is also at TDC. If it isn't the belt has jumped a tooth and will have to be recentered.
5. Tighten the tensioner bolt.
The remainder of installlation is the reverse of the removal steps.

Put the crankshaft pulley bolt back into the crankshaft to rotate the engine 2 complete turns to verify accuracy of crank to camshaft.

You won't need any specail tools to remove the cranshaft pulley. It is held in positon with a half-moon key. Once the bolt is out just wiggle it back and forth until it comes off.

Put the crankshaft pulley bolt into the crank to turn the engine over 2 complete turns to verify accuracy of the timing.

There is a notch on the camhaft pulley that aligns with a notch in the head. Use this to put the camshaft in time with the crank pulley.

12Ounce
12-31-2009, 11:25 AM
Also you can buy a Haynes for this model ... that covers belt replacement very well. Yes, the crank pulley has to come off. It is keyed to the crankshaft ... so it will only go back on correctly.

Loosen the plugs to make rotating the crank easier ... don't drop crap into the engine. After the plugs are loosened ... rotate the crank using a wrench. If it won't rotate ... you may have cyl head damage .... very common on this model.

taunop
12-31-2009, 04:06 PM
Thank you guys for the quick replies.
It hasn't been so warm in here for a while. I tried to fix the car but run into something weird.
When I was trying to rotate the Camshaft, the think would move for a while than would move instantly by itself as if it was pushed by a spring, so I didn't have full control of it and couldn't leave it at any position that i wanted.
I didn't remove the spark plugs though.
I uploaded a video on youtube, if you could check how the socket ranch is moving when i release it. Is it supposed to behave like that?

Another thing, at the end of the video is what a close view of the camshaft.
I focus it into a circle mark in the gear. Is it the mark that I am supposed to align? If so, when i tried to put it up, it would stay because of the first reason.

Could you please tell me whats wrong with it?
By the way, when i wanted to start the car , it just would work, that's how it broke. It drove me to where I wanted and next starting ..... kaput, maybe this might be useful.

link

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MYHvwvkpf7g

12Ounce
12-31-2009, 05:44 PM
Thank you guys for the quick replies.
..... Is it supposed to behave like that?.....
I don't even have to look ...YES! ... the camshaft is supposed to act that way. Your are correct ... it is because of springs ... in the lifters, pushing against the cam lobes.
Could you please tell me whats wrong with it?Perhaps nothing but the belt ... have you turned the crankshaft over yet?
By the way, when i wanted to start the car , it just would work, that's how it broke. It drove me to where I wanted and next starting ..... kaput, maybe this might be useful.I'm not sure I understand what you're saying here.

link

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MYHvwvkpf7g

Good luck!

taunop
12-31-2009, 05:57 PM
Thats what is wrong with the car, the timing belt.
I went to school in the morning and when done went for some shopping. The car would start initially( when done with school) , however, after a few tries, it did work. Next time it was started it was over( at shopping). I took the belt of the camshaft and its threads are all broken, so yes its the belt. Oh and when i would start it, the belt wouldn't move at all as well.


How am I supposed to do the engine alignment if I cant get it to stop when and where I want? I also tried to move the crankshaft and it was acting the same.

12Ounce
12-31-2009, 06:21 PM
...... so yes its the belt.....Well, it may be more than the belt ... I hope not!

How am I supposed to do the engine alignment if I cant get it to stop when and where I want? Once the new belt is on ... this will not be such an issue. Trust me.

I also tried to move the crankshaft and it was acting the same.This comment catches my attention .... are you saying you tried to rotate the crankshaft, but it would act as though a spring was stopping the rotation??

Are the spark plugs loose???

Please answer both questions.

taunop
12-31-2009, 06:27 PM
The spark plugs are not loose. I haven't opened them yet. I believe the crankshaft was acting slightly similar, like being blocked by springs, i believe :confused:. I wasnt holding it with anything and I have taken the drive belt out.

about engine alignment.
If I put the timing belt between the 2 gears, ( the belt has "teeth" in it), how the heck can the gears move separately from each other , without spoiling the belt?

Intuit
12-31-2009, 08:03 PM
Compression stroke. Removing the spark plugs would alleviate that; though shouldn't be necessary.

Probably not an issue with automatic shifts but with my manual shift 1.9L, found it helpful to give the spring on the tensioner pulley a bit of assist before locking it into place. Otherwise the belt stretches fairly quickly.

12Ounce
12-31-2009, 09:22 PM
The spark plugs are not loose. I haven't opened them yet.

I can wait .....

AzTumbleweed
01-01-2010, 08:51 AM
Compression stroke. Removing the spark plugs would alleviate that; though shouldn't be necessary.

Probably not an issue with automatic shifts but with my manual shift 1.9L, found it helpful to give the spring on the tensioner pulley a bit of assist before locking it into place. Otherwise the belt stretches fairly quickly. I agree. The compression is moving the crankshaft pulley.:2cents:

taunop
01-01-2010, 11:14 AM
Thank you all for telling me about the plugs.

First observation: Its freeeezing horribly out there.
Second thing: The plugs have no metal tip left on them,except one of them which seemed left untouched as if it was brand new. I have changed them this summer, about 6 months ago at most. The plugs were way more tight than I have ever tightned them, and i mean really tight.

About the crankshaft, it wasnt like spring , but when rotating about 1/2 to 2/3 rotation was harder than the rest. I dont mean hard hard, but i could feel a slight change in force while doing a full rotation.

some more info:
the car stalls, and it gives me these codes:
0172
303
304
1405
I changed EGR valve 2-3 years ago but didnt see much difference. The old one was full of coal. I dont know how to check for vacuum in the lines. I have a vacuum pump though.

Some more questions:
About the spark plugs. What does that mean for the engine and my car? How bad is it? What to do to fix the problem so it doesn't happen again, if it is fixable at all.

About the engine:
How can I make the camshaft stay where I want it to stay? If I put the belt in there, the camshaft wont move separately of the crankshaft, since they are connected together. If it moves, the belt will be ruined.

Thank you guys for your time.

12Ounce
01-01-2010, 07:45 PM
.......Second thing: The plugs have no metal tip left on them,except one of them which seemed left untouched as if it was brand new. I have changed them this summer, about 6 months ago at most. The plugs were way more tight than I have ever tightned them, and i mean really tight....


Don't rush to put the plugs back in .... wait until the belt is in place and the timing is correct. Without the plugs, the crank and cam should be easier to deal with as you try to get the belt in place.

I'm assuming the crank is fairly easy to rotate around without the plugs??? Yes, there will be certain portions of the crank circle of rotation that resist turning. Remember, the pistons moved together in pairs ... two up, two down ... they all get to the half-travel position at the same time ... this is when the crank is most difficult to move because of poor "mechanical advantage" when the pistons are in mid-position. Nothing to worry about.

Wait until you get the engine running to worry about codes. Get the codes reread then.

When you put the plugs back in, use anti-sieze on the threads. The tips of some plugs broke off because they were over-torqued and the bodies stretched. They only need about 7-1/2 ftlbs of torque.... I can twist more than that on a scewdriver handle!! Use a 1/4" torque wrench if you can find one .... or be very gentle when screwing the plugs back in.

12Ounce
01-01-2010, 07:52 PM
.....
How can I make the camshaft stay where I want it to stay? If I put the belt in there, the camshaft wont move separately of the crankshaft, since they are connected together. If it moves, the belt will be ruined.
.

HuH! Why are you still worrying about a non-problem?

You install the belt ... you try to get it "just so". Then you check it ... if its wrong, off a tooth or so, you loosen the belt and try again! It ain't no big deal. Just make sure its correct before you leave it.

taunop
01-01-2010, 08:02 PM
I will try to fix it tomorrow than, hopefully and keep in mind the way to install the belt as well. Is it possible to look at the video and tell if the round notch is the one that is supposed to be used for alignment ? Its the last 10 sec I think.

thank you so much.

Intuit
01-02-2010, 01:24 AM
some more info:
the car stalls, and it gives me these codes:
0172
303
304
1405
I changed EGR valve 2-3 years ago but didnt see much difference. The old one was full of coal. I dont know how to check for vacuum in the lines. I have a vacuum pump though.
At ~190k, my EGR orifice was clogged as well. Simply cleaned it up and reinstalled it. Didn't have any noticeable running issues as a result of it being clogged; as per mechanic, EGR is only introduced at higher speeds anyway.

Also discovered a number of centimeters of dry-rotted hose at the charcoal evap cannister. That was a vacuum leak.

Some more questions:
About the spark plugs. What does that mean for the engine and my car? How bad is it? What to do to fix the problem so it doesn't happen again, if it is fixable at all.
Though not nearly so severely, had noticed that the plugs wear unevenly in mine as well. But it's not the wear that should cause concern so much as their color/condition. Mine have always appeared to be perfectly fine; which indicated normal combustion/running and excellent engine health. The odd numbered cylinders 1 and 3 seemed to place *very* little wear on the plugs while the even numbered like to run them down a bit. Now I simply check my plugs 1 to 2 times a year and rotate them; even cylinders to odd and vice-versa. The most worn plug gets swapped with the least worn plug. That way I get a smoother running engine and good life and out of the entire set

taunop
01-03-2010, 01:30 PM
I managed to pull the pulley from crankshaft but I am having serious troubles with the belt placement.
When I took the old belt which was quite loose compared to this one , was hard ad now I have to put the new one.
It is very tight and in addition to that I have to align the engine as well. Do you guys have any tips or secrets in doing this?

Intuit
01-03-2010, 03:25 PM
You have to lock the tensioner pulley in the release position. There should be plenty of slack for sliding the belt over the pulleys before releasing the tensioner. Recall the tip I mentioned at the beginning of the thread... <<You may keep finding that your timing is off the mark by one tooth once you snug things up and even before you turn it over. To counter, you may have to intentionaly set your timing off a tooth before snugging things up. The "backside" of the belt going straight from the cam to the crank is what you'll want to make sure has zero slack.>>

Intuit
01-03-2010, 03:29 PM
Check your waterpump pulley by making sure it isn't able to rock off it's axis. Worn bearings will allow it to rock which may cause accelerated t-belt wear. If you are able to rock the pull then the waterpump must be replaced as well.

ckkhiller
01-03-2010, 03:30 PM
can't figure out how to start a thread. anyways, my 02 camaro broke down. the ignition lights all flash like when you start the car, then all gauges except oil pressure dies. i was fine with that but eventually the car started to miss and i had no fuel pressure. i changed the pumps, drove for approximately 100 miles and it started symptom #1 and then no fuel pressure again. does anybody know what is going on? If i wires the fuel pump in will the car run?

12Ounce
01-03-2010, 05:11 PM
Taunop, what are you using as a written text? Haynes? Chilton? Ford shop manual? Print-out from AutoZone.com?

I think all of those texts show placing the tensioner in the "back" position, and inserting a small pin (small Allen wrench, nail, etc.) in a small hole to hold it there ... while the belt is installed. The pin is then pulled ... and the belt snaps tight.

My 'puter is acting up ... so I cannot view the video you mentioned. But the timing is very staight forward ... assuming you have any text mentioned above. One tip I would add: Make a timing mark on the outside edge of the crank pulley to match the one provided on the inside edge. I use Wite-Out. It makes the work go faster.

Tightening the crank bolt can be a problem ... or holding the pulley can be a problem. Best to drop the oil pan and wedge something between crank-throw and crank-case. But that's too much effort just now. Some folks try to pinch a large screwdriver in the flywheel teeth. Do not do anything to damage the area where the belt runs on the pulley. About 100 footlbs needed, if I remember. Loc-tite on threads also.

taunop
01-03-2010, 05:20 PM
I have Chilton manual, and the autozone, which seem to be identical. I read the thing about using pin in the pulley, but doesnt seem to help much. the tensioner goes back to its place.

I am trying to hold it with a wrench but its pain in the neck to work in that tight place. Why do u need to loose the bold in the tensioner? i loosened it and tightened it again, dont see any difference. Am i doing sth wrong?

rhandwor
01-03-2010, 08:53 PM
Parts stores sometimes give you the wrong belt. Count the teeth and make sure its the correct belt. The tensioner you have to put in a vise and compress then use something like a small allen wrench after the belt is installed correctly pull out the allen wrench. Their is a small hole to put the allen wrench into. Some times you have to roll the cam counter clock wise about a tooth then when pushing on the belt to put on the tensioner it pulls the gear into the proper position.

12Ounce
01-04-2010, 12:53 PM
..... about using pin in the pulley, but doesnt seem to help much. the tensioner goes back to its place.....



It takes a bit of fishing around ... Maybe you are forcing the tensioner too far back! I don't remember it being too difficult ... and I don't remember the bit about the bolt. Seems like I remember using an Allen wrench to pull the tensioner back, while using a very small Allen wrench to insert into hole. No big deal that I remember .... but then, I ain't doing it now!

Intuit
01-05-2010, 01:04 PM
Doesn't sound like the SOHC 2.0 engine is similar to the 1.9 but with my own 1.9, was able to place a deep socket against waterpump pulley's base (not the pulley itself!) then apply a crowbar to the socket which then pushed on the base (and the pulley) all the way back; where I was then able to retighten the bolt to lock it in the release position.

Why they might've changed the waterpump pulley design to prevent it from locking in the open position, I don't know. Doesn't sound reasonable.

rhandwor
01-05-2010, 01:18 PM
I have Chilton manual, and the autozone, which seem to be identical. I read the thing about using pin in the pulley, but doesnt seem to help much. the tensioner goes back to its place.

I am trying to hold it with a wrench but its pain in the neck to work in that tight place. Why do u need to loose the bold in the tensioner? i loosened it and tightened it again, dont see any difference. Am i doing sth wrong?
The tensioner is hydraulic you have to press the shaft in so the pin or small Allen wrench goes into the hole in the tensioner and into the shaft. This holds the pin in the tensioner so you can install the belt. Then when you pull the pin the tensioner tightens the belt.
I just remove the tensioner put it into a vise and tighten until the holes line up install a small drill bit or Allen wrench I then reinstall the tensioner.

taunop
01-06-2010, 08:06 AM
Thank you all guys for giving tips and helping me out. My problem was just the tensioner, I wasn't putting it at the right place coz the tool i was using would get stuck so ... no going to its right place.

A tip for those having issues with the tensioner:

Unscrew the whole bold that is keeping it there. Use a pair of pliers to put it in the lock position and than plug the pin or whatever in the hole. From there screw it back to the engine, insert the belt. ( once you unscrew it, it might take a few sec to figure out was is going but it is really easy, oh and when u put the tensioner back to the engine , the pin hole should be up)

Keep also in mind the leave a tooth off for the crankshaft like it was said earlier in this thread and it should be no problem.

About pulling the serpentine belt wheel from crankshaft, you can use a flat metal bar and have it stuck in the gears of the crankshaft, and then unfasten the bolt. Hold the bar so it isnt displaced while you try to unfasten the bolt. Shoudldnt be that hard.I tried with stretch wrench, and it didnt help me.

Sereno011
11-13-2011, 09:39 AM
I have another question about the tensioner. Whether the bolt is loose or torqued down it still moves freely (under spring tension) using the allen wrench, acting similar to the serpentine belt tensioner. I've done plenty of TB before and the bolt would always lock the pulley into a fixed position. Is this normal operation or am I missing something? I have read the manuals but they are vague on this aspect.

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