99 Windstar 3.8L Replacing Intake Manifold Gaskets

I have coolant in the oil which has formed deposits of goop in parts of the engine. I’ve read a number of the threads on this forum and others (great info!) and I’m hoping the problem is leaks in the lower intake manifold gaskets. I’ve pulled the upper intake manifold (plenum), the intake manifold spacer, and the lower intake manifold. The gaskets appear okay – no obvious tears, deterioration, etc. – but it certainly appears that coolant is getting past the gaskets. Some of the long bolts have rusted threads at points where they sit down in the heads. I plan to do a thorough cleaning, replace the gaskets and seals, put everything back together and hope that fixes my problem. I have some questions and would appreciate advice:

1. There was oil/coolant goop in the housing below the lower intake manifold (where the balance shaft is) and on the bottom of the oil cap and the PCV valve. I’m going to pull the valve covers and see what it looks like under them. The goop is very thick in some places, milky in others. The thick stuff I can wipe off, but what’s a good way to really get all of it out of the engine?
2. Do I need to replace the isolator bolts that bolt the spacer to the lower intake manifold? I believe they are the newer ones identified in TSB 03-16-1 because they have the green not black sleeves. Note: I’ll be checking the front valve cover when I pull it to see if it’s the newer one identified in TSB 03-16-1.
3. Do I need to replace the 6 port seals on the bottom of the spacer that mate to the lower intake manifold?
4. Should I replace the water bypass tube while I’ve got the manifold off?
5. Should I go with OEM or is aftermarket okay? If I need isolator bolts I doubt my local parts store will have them. Any recommendations for a good online parts store?
6. The fuel injector ports were surrounded by dirt/oil mix; I cleaned as best I could before pulling the injectors, but I'm certain that dirt got down into the cylinders. How do I clean this out?

Note: I realize the coolant in the oil may have created problems that will result in other failures eventually (like rod bearings), but I’m willing to take the risk. I think I found the problem fairly early and worst case I’m willing to replace the engine if it comes to that.

Thanks!

Your '99 is a bit different from my '96, I have my lower intake manifold gasket pictures posted.....in the pictures that the link in my signature takes you to.

I would buy genuine OEM FORD/Motorcraft gaskets....
I would also replace the coolant bypass tube.

You need to use a torque wrench to tighten the lower intake manifold bolts.....to the specified tightness......I do not know the torque spec. for your '99.
I would use a BEAM type torque wrench.......it is INCH/POUNDS.......so get a IN/LB beam style torque wrench.....NOT Ft/LBs.
I would not use a "clicker" style wrench for this low torque.
You can re-use the lower intake manifold bolts.

Do NOT use any metal tooling to scrape the alluminum surfaces where the lower intake manifold gaskets are to seat.
Metal tooling will leave little scratches in the soft alluminum.......and cause leaks.
Use nylon or wood tooling.......

Avoid getting any junk (solvents, particles, etc on down into the intake passages.
You can use shopt towels.....stuffed into the intake passeges while cleaning......to keep things from going on down to the intake valves.

On my '96, as I show in my pictures.....the call for a SMALL dap of SENSOR SAFE sealant at the corners where the end seals meet the lower intake manifold gaskets.

Do NOT add any goo or sealant to the lower intake manifold gasket surfaces.....they are to be DRY fitted.

If you have not had the TSB for the isolator bolts for the upper intake manifold.....then you will need to buy new isolator bolts.

Once you get everything back together......BEFORE you start the motor.....Change the motor oil AND oil filter.
When you lifted the lower intake manifold off.......when you broke the seal......coolant ran down into the crankcase.......and you MUST drain that out and install new motor oil before trying to start the motor.......or coolant will be drawn up into the oil pump...and through the motor.....instead of oil......and not good things will happen.

Before inserting the fuel injectors into the motor.....I would put some clean motor oil on your finger....and wipe it onto the "O" ring gaskets on each injector.
This will help to get them into the motor without binding....etc.

As for any dirt that fell down......you might try using a very small wand on a vaccum cleaner......but don't spray anything down there...as it will not help.

Visit the website for the TSB that I list in my "General Windstar Information" listing.
It will show you about the TSB...and how to identify if things have been done or not.
On a '99.....I believe that if the front valve cover is BLACK......you will need to replace it......the replacement valve cover is unpainted.....SILVER.....unless someone got ambitious and painted it.
However....they show you how to look down into the PCV valve hole and identify if it is the new or old style.

As I have a '96, I am not up on the upper intake manifold on your '99......it is MUCH different from the big, single part, upper intake manifold on my '96.

The gaskets appear okay – no obvious tears, deterioration, etc. – but it certainly appears that coolant is getting past the gaskets. I have never seen a defect, for sure, in these gaskets and seals either ... but they were there somewhere.Some of the long bolts have rusted threads at points where they sit down in the heads. Not unusual ... some of the bolts end in coolant passages. Be sure to use sealant on these bolts going back togetherI plan to do a thorough cleaning, replace the gaskets and seals, put everything back together and hope that fixes my problem. I have some questions and would appreciate advice:

1. There was oil/coolant goop in the housing below the lower intake manifold (where the balance shaft is) and on the bottom of the oil cap and the PCV valve. I’m going to pull the valve covers and see what it looks like under them. The goop is very thick in some places, milky in others. The thick stuff I can wipe off, but what’s a good way to really get all of it out of the engine?The oil can tolerate some amount of coolant and still be a good lubricant. But you could try two engine oil change-outs. The first with "cheap" oil ... drive a few hundred miles ... and then change to the "good" stuff.
2. Do I need to replace the isolator bolts that bolt the spacer to the lower intake manifold? I believe they are the newer ones identified in TSB 03-16-1 because they have the green not black sleeves. NO, but you could smear on a little RTV. Note: I’ll be checking the front valve cover when I pull it to see if it’s the newer one identified in TSB 03-16-1.I wouldn't bother.
3. Do I need to replace the 6 port seals on the bottom of the spacer that mate to the lower intake manifold?NO.
4. Should I replace the water bypass tube while I’ve got the manifold off?It could wait.
5. Should I go with OEM or is aftermarket okay? If I need isolator bolts I doubt my local parts store will have them. Any recommendations for a good online parts store?
6. The fuel injector ports were surrounded by dirt/oil mix; I cleaned as best I could before pulling the injectors, but I'm certain that dirt got down into the cylinders. How do I clean this out?Shame! You could rig up a small dia tube or hose and reach down in there and blast with compressed air! Don't worry too much ... it will probably pass throw OK

Note: I realize the coolant in the oil may have created problems that will result in other failures eventually (like rod bearings), but I’m willing to take the risk. I think I found the problem fairly early and worst case I’m willing to replace the engine if it comes to that.I agree!

Thanks!

Keep in mind that the coolant could have passed thru the front engine cover gasket. Be sure to follow shop manual for installing lower manifold gaskets and seals .... 4 daubs of RTV are needed. As already noted, be carefull not to overtorque the bolts and screws ... they all get approx. 7.1 ftlbs/84inlbs, IIRC. Best to locate a 1/4" beam torque wrench.

Good luck!

wiswind, 12Ounce,

Thanks for the good info and advice! I think I'm ready to tackle this as soon as I get the parts. I've done a fair amount of auto work in my years, but never any engine work. I've viewed a lot of threads in this forum and your posts in them have given me a lot of good info.

wiswind, thanks for your General Windstar Information thread - very informative!

wiswind, 12Ounce,

Thanks for the good info and advice! I think I'm ready to tackle this as soon as I get the parts. I've done a fair amount of auto work in my years, but never any engine work. I've viewed a lot of threads in this forum and your posts in them have given me a lot of good info.

wiswind, thanks for your General Windstar Information thread - very informative!

Give my pictures a look.....might be a little different.....but should be similar as far as the lower intake manifold gasket........

Here are 2 photos of my problem.
I found this link here on Automotive Forums http://leckemby.net/windstar/windstar01.html
I am thinking this is the problem I have with my 99 Ford Windstar.

That looks like coolant leaking from the metal water bypass tube at the 90-degree bend as it goes into the intake. You can't see it now, but follow those exact instructions you referenced, and when you lift up the lower plastic plenum shell you'll see the pipe with the hole in it. Some have welded it, but most just replace it. It's about $32 online or $65-$70 at the dealer.

Motorcraft part # KM4386.

https://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-KM4386-Bypass-Hose/dp/B000C5FOXG/?tag=scubacat-20

It's an easy job to do. I had the same problem before, and replaced the gasket. I bought the part from ebay. Just search and sort by price.
You can get a ford oem service manual for that. It tells everything, step by step.