93 Escort Intake Gasket 1.9 engine


Marnav1
12-16-2009, 05:14 PM
Hello all. Getting ready to do this gasket soon for a friend. Looks pretty easy, any tips or things to watch out for? I like to ask those who have done one before. Thanks in advance. :licka:

12Ounce
12-16-2009, 09:06 PM
Make sure you have a plan for the EGR tube and EGR valve. If you plan to remove the tube ... make sure you have a wrench to fit the nut. I have a shorten wrench that I use just for this task ... shortened to get some work clearance. Use WD40, and time, to help loosen nuts. (I remember those nuts to be 7/8" ... but don't hold me to it.)

The dipstick tube can be a pain ... have a plan for it. If not too difficult to remove from block ... I would.

I believe the fuel rail and injectors must be removed. If so, do some cleaning first ... so no dirt drops in. Use twisted bits of paper to plug the injector holes if needed. Remove the injectors and blast the injector inlets with brake cleaner. Don't overdo it!

I would have a couple of new manifold bolts and nuts on hand ... you can count on some of the old bolts to be messed up. Use anti-sieze as you go back together.

denisond3
12-16-2009, 09:11 PM
Prior post is all good advice, and here's mine...
I presume you know that the engine head has two openings into the water jacket, which that intake manifold gasket needs to seal up. There may be a good bit of corrosion on the manifold opposite these openings, and it needs to be scraped off to make a flat surface. I like to smear a thin layer of some RTV gasket maker (UltraBlack for instance) onto the head around the openings, and a similar thin coating on the manifold or the back side of the gasket. This helps to seal the water from oozing out and making the corrosion worse. On the rest of the gasket I use a -very- thin smear of the gasket maker; not enough to get squeezed into the intake ports.
If any of the studs came unscrewed instead of the nuts backing off of the studs, I would advise getting the nuts 'off' & all studs installed; and put the nuts on them after the manifold. Otherwise you wont really know if you are properly torquing the nut onto the stud, or if the stud has just bottomed in the threaded hole in the head.
Make CERTAIN the cam position sensor is installed in the head before you put the manifold on.
I dont know when they moved the dipstick to where it sticks up between the 2nd/3rd intake tubes. I know the 92's had the dipstick emerging over near the passenger side strut tower, and in 94 it was coming up through the center of the manifold. If yours has the 'centered' position for the dispstick; I like to install the manifold, the clip that holds the dipstick, and torque it all up...then to install the disptick tube. I also use Ultra Black around its lower end to stop oil seepage.
I forget whether the nuts on the studs are 12mm or 13mm - but I used a deep socket, and an extension about 6" long. This lets me reach the nuts from behind the manifold tubes, and from above the engine.
I have rebuilt three 1.9L engines, and each time had the intake manifold assembled, with the injectors and fuel rail in it when I installed the manifold. I dont know that it makes much difference to do it differently though.

And anytime you are putting an intake manifold on, make sure the air tubes are clean inside, free of any metallic dirt, and that the throttle body is not gunked up with a thick coating of crud.

P.S. Getting the fuel line connections loose from the fuel rail might be the most time consuming. I use the little plastic tools that slip over the fittings, and then pull down on the bottom part of the fitting, under the place where they plug into the fuel rail. Dont expect them to just slip off. Even though its just the friction of O-rings inside the metal piping of the fuel rail, it still takes some force to bring the fuel lines down.
Be sure to cover all of the openings into the fuel lines and the fuel rail. I use little plastic bags and rubber bands to keep the dirt out.

Marnav1
12-16-2009, 10:25 PM
Where is the EGR tube? I didn't see anything like that, it wasn't mentioned in two different online manuals. Funny how they forget those things. :grinyes:

12Ounce
12-17-2009, 09:32 AM
Unless someone has removed it ... there should be a metal tube (about 3/4" dia.) running from the exhaust manifold ... across the tranny ... to the EGR valve, which is mounted on the intake manifold.

??

(Now I remember those nuts to be about 1 1/8". Its great to get old!)

Marnav1
12-17-2009, 10:15 AM
Okay, thanks all! :loser:

denisond3
12-17-2009, 11:58 AM
Not ALL 2nd gen. Escort 1.9L LX's have an EGR valve & EGR tubing. I know because I have a 92 LX wagon that never had an EGR setup - (its been in the family since new). I also have a 94 Escort LX wagon that does have EGR. Depending on when your car was made, its possible it doesnt have EGR. If so, its one less thing to have to undo and reconnect on the intake manifold.
It also means the original manifold may not have the EGR system, and your replacement manifold might. Or vice versa.
If the engine's exhaust system has the EGR tube, then the replacement manifold would either need to have one or you would need to plug up the fitting on the exhaust system -
and........
1. If they have emissions testing where you live, I think car would fail the test without the EGR working; and 2. The Service Engine Light may keep coming on, since the ECC expects results at the O2 sensor when it opens the EGR valve. The ECC computer has to match the stuff under the hood.

I also have an (early) 91 Escort LX sedan that has the EGR valve and tube, but the EGR tube runs straight down behind the engine and connects into the exhaust pipe downstream of the catalytic converter. !

When I needed to unscrew that EGR tube flare nut, I used a 6 point 1-1/8" box-end wrench, that I had modified. I first ground away enough of the 'box' so it would fit over the EGR tube, then heated the neck of the wrench (with an acetylene torch) enough to bend it up at 90 degrees.
A equally good solution would be to buy a 1-1/8" crowfoot wrench, of the 'flare nut' kind, and of 6 point design, not 12 point. But check the wrench size needed, as Im not sure what size it was either.
And of course to spray the parts with penetrating oil to get it unscrewed, and coat the threads with an antisieze compound when re-installing it.

Intuit
12-17-2009, 08:21 PM
Fuel line decoupler tool is the name folks are searching for. I also did all of my intake + exhaust, etcetera, removal and installation while the head was off the vehicle. Much much easier that way.

For my own '94 LX 1.9, never had to remove the dipstick tube. For me it wasn't just the headgasket, but there were tiny (barely noticeable) cracks running from exhaust valve to the exhaust header. Photos here --> http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=6065877&postcount=14

Regardless of whether you see any cracks, make sure you find a good shop with a good reputation that will pressure-test their own work. (check with the racing crowds) My Brother built his own racer and recommended a local CarQuest, so that's where I had my own serviced some 50k ago.

I don't know whether the the valve seat problem applies to our heads as well, (mine has been good thus far,) but might drop a mention to the shop that's doing the rebuild.

I didn't bother removing the actual EGR tube. Instead, I disconnected the tube at the exhaust header then took it off with the entire EGR valve.

My EGR valve was *completely* clogged. Cleaned that out and also the IAC valve just to be safe. (not specifically recommending it but used a little Castrol trans fluid as a light lube on the IAC - being aware that a heavier lubricant or too much would collect grime)

Intuit
12-17-2009, 08:28 PM
Parrot-nosed pliars were able to twist that broken head bolt stud, out.

mightymoose_22
12-18-2009, 02:53 AM
As was mentioned above, be aware that removing the intake manifold will spill coolant into your engine if you don't drain the coolant first. Drain the coolant from the block, not from the radiator. There is a plug toward the front of the engine and behind the exhaust manifold.
If you spill coolant into the engine you will just be making a lot more work for yourself. Be prepared to deal with it.

12Ounce
12-18-2009, 11:32 AM
I thought the 1.9 intake was "dry" ... may be wrong, often am.

Intuit
12-18-2009, 03:16 PM
Denisond mentioned that "the head has two openings in the water jacket". That was my observation as well. Not quite sure of the purpose for that. There are no coolant passages on or in the intake manifold itself.

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