95 rs clutch promlems
95 rs clutch promlems
11-26-2009, 08:46 AM
At first I thought it may be a faulty seal around the cap cause my radiator cap was blowing water out, so I thought this might be the same. I can pour fluid in the canister and in a few days it's empty. There is no leaks that I can see but the fluid is going somewhere.
Could it be a bad Master cylinder?
11-26-2009, 10:02 AM
So the clutch goes soft after a couple days and you're losing coolant? The 2 don't tie together at all.
For the clutch, the master and slaves go bad after a while. If it's not leaking anywhere, it could be one of those. Check inside the car to see if there's an fluid on the rug by the pedal and firewall. Lastly, check the hose at the clutch fluid reservoir that comes off the bottom of it. My hose became brittle a couple years back and got a very tiny hole in it.
It's a good idea to replace the master/slave when they get old anyways.
11-26-2009, 10:18 AM
You deffinately have a leak somewhere. It must be very small otherwise you wouldn't be losing any fluid. Take the boot off the slave cylinder and check for leaks there. Also check inside the car like Dave said, these are where most start to leak. I would go ahead and replace both if you can afford it. I would also replace the rubber line, I got a nice SS one for about 20$. You can buy rebuid kits for both the master and slave cylinder which will save you some cash.
11-26-2009, 01:23 PM
Thanx for the replys.
Later today IM going to check all. I bought the car as a junk car and have been rebuilding it. Just weeding out all the problems.
11-26-2009, 01:32 PM
Found it. There is fluid all over the fire wall above the clutch pedal. So that means I have to replace the whole thing? Hose, master, slave etc?
11-26-2009, 01:55 PM
Just the Master cylinder needs replaced if there's fluid inside the car near the pedal.
If you want a slightly stiffer pedal, then go w/ a SS clutch line that connects at the slave but it's not a necessity.
11-26-2009, 06:53 PM
Just the master is bad, I would go ahead and replace it all while you in there. The car is almost 15yrs old, the slave cylinder will fail in the near future. I think you can rebuilt it for like 12$.
11-27-2009, 04:29 AM
When I redid all of mine last year, I found out that NAPA had the best prices for the master and slave. Plus there a lot easier to deal with.
11-27-2009, 09:05 AM
Ya IM going to go ahead and replace it all. Is rebuilding it pretty ez? What price am I looking at if I don't rebuild? I found one on ebay brand new for $41.95. I would call but everything is closed cause of holiday.
11-27-2009, 06:02 PM
Sounds about right, you probably could replace the slave and master cylinder for about 80$. I have never rebuilt any of these parts but the slave cylinder comes apart easily but not so sure on the master. It shouldn't be to hard tho.
11-27-2009, 06:47 PM
I would just buy new, too much of a hassle to rebuild especially if it's inexpensive to just replace.
11-28-2009, 03:43 PM
K thanx. Just going to buy and be done with it. :)
12-07-2009, 05:35 PM
K ran into a problem. The new master cylinder is not pumping fluid at all. When I put the and old one side by side, the rod in the old one was alot shorter.
I can screw the end that goes to the clutch pedal as far as it will go and it still wont pump. I know this is the right master cylinder but why is the rod so much longer than the old one? It didn't look like the old one was cut. There about a full inch difference. With the old MC it only took like 2 minutes to get the clutch pedal to tighten up. I been pumping on new one for 10 minutes. It wont even bleed.
12-07-2009, 07:42 PM
Can you swap the rod from the old one and make the new one work? I had to use the rod from my old slave cylinder to make the new one work. Any pics?
12-08-2009, 03:45 AM
I'll take some pics today. Have to take the new off again. I looked to if i could swap them, but i have no clue in how to do it. Scared IM going to mess something up. Think I can just cut the rod to match the old one and go with it?
12-08-2009, 08:39 AM
Think I can just cut the rod to match the old one and go with it?
Is the rod bottoming out because it's longer? I would make it so it's the same as the old one but I don't know if they made it longer for a good reason. If the one you bought is a rebuild then it should be the exact same as your old one and there for cutting the the rod will do the trick.
12-08-2009, 09:18 AM
It not a rebuild. My buddy said the rod being longer is no biggy. He said it is sometime hell to bleed them. I have tried it with leaving the bleeder open. I can here air coming out the bleeder, so does it just take some time? Man brakes are so much ezer.
12-08-2009, 11:03 AM
If you leave the bleeder open, does fluid come out immediately? I found it easier when bleeding the clutch to use a small water bottle with a hole in the top big enough to put a vac line through. Connect one end to the bleeder and the other put into the bottle, in the bottle put enough fluid in it to submerge the end of the line. I don't know if this is how you do it but it's a bitch if you try to do it the normal way as you do with brakes. Just keep turning the bleeder like usual until no more air bubbles come out of the vac line in the bottle. Use a clear bottle so you can see clearly. This works best for me, lots of trial and error.
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