Hey guys i just got my 96 lx auto back today and i need to put in an alternator.

I'm thinking of pulling one from one of the new escorts in the junkyard.
Do you know if the 96-99 escorts uses the exact same alternator?..
And i noticed 2 bolts holding the alternator. Are those the only 2 thats mounting the alternator?

All of them have a 2 bolt mounting. The part number for 96 is 3507-16-11. The part number for 97's and above are 3508-16-11. Clearly there is some difference between the two. If I were you I would pull the alternator and take it to the bonepile and match it up to what they have. If it physically looks the same and has the same wiring I would say it would work on your car. Your alternator is 75 amp and the later one's are 93 amps. This may be the only difference. I can see no reason why a later alternator wouldn't work on your car.

All of them have a 2 bolt mounting. The part number for 96 is 3507-16-11. The part number for 97's and above are 3508-16-11. Clearly there is some difference between the two. If I were you I would pull the alternator and take it to the bonepile and match it up to what they have. If it physically looks the same and has the same wiring I would say it would work on your car. Your alternator is 75 amp and the later one's are 93 amps. This may be the only difference. I can see no reason why a later alternator wouldn't work on your car.

Oh ic so if it matches up physically there wouldn’t be a problem internally such as the different amp ratings correct?

Right you are. If it looks the same as what you have it will probably work for you. Ford isn't going to go to the trouble or expense of changing alternators between model years. When you go to the boneyard take your old alternator with you. If you need to get to the yard with your car just ask them if you can take it out and compare it with what you have before you purchase it. I think it will work out for you. A higher amperage alternator should work if everything else is the same.

Right you are. If it looks the same as what you have it will probably work for you. Ford isn't going to go to the trouble or expense of changing alternators between model years. When you go to the boneyard take your old alternator with you. If you need to get to the yard with your car just ask them if you can take it out and compare it with what you have before you purchase it. I think it will work out for you. A higher amperage alternator should work if everything else is the same.


thanks man..i'll check it out at the bone yard this weekend...

After nearly 240k I think mine is finally starting to go. Noticed my engine was idling low a couple of nights ago. So I opened up the dome light, turned it on, connected my volt meter to it and was reading 12.75 volts. (battery is 12.75v) Revved up the engine and it resumed the normal 13.75 - 14.9 volts. Since I don't do a whole lot of short trips I'll leave it in there just to see how many more years it'll last. :devil:

hey guys i just been to the junk yard today and it looks like the 97 up alternators are very different, well they at least have different mounting points lol...

I ended up getting one from a 96 for $42. Hopefully this one well work.

Guys how do i make space to take out the alternator? there's the power steering hoses and the heater hose on top thats in the way.
To get the junk yard one out i just cut those hoses, but i dont want to cut these lol.

Chris do this to remove the alternator.

1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
2. Remove the drive belt.
3. Unbolt the A/C hose bracket from the alternator bracket. Move the bracket out of the way.
4. Disconnect the electrical connections.
5. Remove the lower mounting bolt.
6. Remove the upper mounting bolt.
7. Unbolt the Power Steering reservoir and move it to one side.
8. Pry the alternator loose from the bracket then lift it out. Hold it by the pulley and GENTLY pry it loose then lift it away from the engine.

Make sure you stick with the same numbers on the alt case , look for the same motorcraft numbers if possible , check the amps too , you may need to change the pulley

thanks you guys for the suggestions..i'll work on it this weekend:licka:

I didnt want to remove the power steering reservoir, so... I removed the headlamp instead. This involves first removing the grille, then the turn signal, finally the headlamp assembly. The alternator comes out via the hole where the headlight was, and even then requires some rotating and maneuvering to do it. I had already done the steps listed by DaveEscort 97, except for #7.
I also like to replace the pulleys for the tensioner and the idler when I replace a serpentine belt. My Escorts are a 91, 92, & a 94, all LX's bought 'well used' & "as is", and I had no way of knowing if those pulleys had ever been replaced.
While the headlamp assembly was out, I dismantled it so I could soak the headlamp adjusters in penetrating oil, then to lube them. I did this to both headlamps on all 3 cars. Four of the six were 'stuck' when I started.

hey guys thanks for the help.

I changed my alternator over the weekend and it was as easy as an oil change. lol
I think i got lucky finding a rebuilt alternator in the bone yard..

hey guys..maybe its random but..the battery dash light symbal lighted up yesterday coming home from work..but only for a few mins then went away..could something be up?

If it came on I'm sure there is a reason. Make sure the connections are tight. A loose wire can make the light come on.

I just installed brass battery connectors and everything seems snug so lets see how this week goes rite

For mid-ninetees years, there is a single white wire that connects to the alternator in addition to the bolt-on wire and multi-wire harness. This single wire attaches via mini-harness. I've seen corrosion on that harness's contacts cause false battery lights.

Be sure to use a volt meter (safer at the battery) and verify that you're receiving good, steady charging voltage at the battery. You can test for a steady consistent output at the alternator as well, but there are a number of precautions you would need to follow.

I didnt want to remove the power steering reservoir, so... I removed the headlamp instead. This involves first removing the grille, then the turn signal, finally the headlamp assembly. The alternator comes out via the hole where the headlight was, and even then requires some rotating and maneuvering to do it. I had already done the steps listed by DaveEscort 97, except for #7.
I also like to replace the pulleys for the tensioner and the idler when I replace a serpentine belt. My Escorts are a 91, 92, & a 94, all LX's bought 'well used' & "as is", and I had no way of knowing if those pulleys had ever been replaced.
While the headlamp assembly was out, I dismantled it so I could soak the headlamp adjusters in penetrating oil, then to lube them. I did this to both headlamps on all 3 cars. Four of the six were 'stuck' when I started.

I once removed my driver-side headlight because the deflector (not reflector) or blind had fallen off it's mount inside. THe vibration noise it was making was annoying.

Anyway during the removal I discovered how brittle the grill and signal lamp mounting plastics had become. To others who may try this, keep some stiff wire around to use in place of broken parts.

Honestly it was very easy with the power steering push aside..it literally took me 30 seconds to get the alternator out ..

How would one test out the battery and alternator are there different voltages to look for?

hey guys..i tried the alternator for the week and a couple days before going into work, it could not start, so I got a boost and it started up again. After that i charged the battery and it was running good until this morning when it was slow to start. It looks like some how the power is draining or the power from the alternator is not reaching the battery.

I'm thinking of trying this out. It can test the alternator as well..What do you guys think?
http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/BatteryChargersAccessories/BatteryChargers/PRD~0111577P/NASCAR%2BAdvantage%2BBattery%2BCharger%2Bwith%2BEx press%2BStart.jsp


Please let me know

Certain auto-parts stores here test alternators for free. Either way a simple volt-meter would do. 1-2 volts over battery voltage will suffice. Test alternator at idle, 2k RPM and 3k RPM. Save your money.

Most junkyards will exchange bad parts for free. It's just a matter of whether it's worth the hassle in that, you're risking getting another bad part. (if it's bad)

From personal experiences it's usually not good to get complex mechanical parts from the JY if it can be avoided. Depending upon the failure point, similar can be said of some electrical parts for vehicles.

Certain auto-parts stores here test alternators for free. Either way a simple volt-meter would do. 1-2 volts over battery voltage will suffice. Test alternator at idle, 2k RPM and 3k RPM. Save your money.

Most junkyards will exchange bad parts for free. It's just a matter of whether it's worth the hassle in that, you're risking getting another bad part. (if it's bad)

From personal experiences it's usually not good to get complex mechanical parts from the JY if it can be avoided. Depending upon the failure point, similar can be said of some electrical parts for vehicles.

I came accross this link on how to test. Would this be good to do in your opinions?

http://www3.telus.net/chemelec/Projects/Alternator/Alternator.htm

After nearly 240k I think mine is finally starting to go. Noticed my engine was idling low a couple of nights ago. So I opened up the dome light, turned it on, connected my volt meter to it and was reading 12.75 volts. (battery is 12.75v) Revved up the engine and it resumed the normal 13.75 - 14.9 volts. Since I don't do a whole lot of short trips I'll leave it in there just to see how many more years it'll last. :devil:

You may just be needing a new set of brushes in your old alternator. I'm still using the original alternator on my '88 Pony with over 501K miles and all I've done is replaced the brushes in it one time. If it's the brushes you can pick up a new set for probably about $5. instead of $100-$200 for a new alternator.

Thanks for the tip FordMan! I was surprised to see how much alternator prices have increased over the years. (or maybe I'm wrong on that ?)

Thanks for the tip FordMan! I was surprised to see how much alternator prices have increased over the years. (or maybe I'm wrong on that ?)

yea even one for the boneyard is $50 bucks..and you lucky if it even works...