Crank Sensor - some other tactics

Here are just a few thought starters on how I changed my crank sensor in the 2000 GTP.

First, I currently have no access to air tools, this repair was done roadside...albeit in front of my house, I have no concrete slab or garage to work in. I was a little leery of using the starter motor to break the balancer bolt loose (as listed in the tips section), I could envision trashed starter and worse yet trashed flexplate. Plus that didn't solve the issue of how to retorque the bolt.

So having to use hand tools, I needed some way to restrain the crankshaft to oppose the bolt torque whilst loosening and tightening the balancer bolt.

So I designed the tool made from scrap steel, 4-1/2" OD x 2" thru hole at center (cut with holesaw). Drill 3pc x 5/16" dia thru holes on a 1-11/16" radius bolt circle, 120 degrees apart. Weld the handle, originally 6" long but later came out to be around 8" for bracing on the front cradle structure. The part is 1/2" thick but could easily have been 3/8" and still worked. I had to remove the oil filter, next tool might have a bend in the handle but I didn't worry too much.

Bolts are the usual 1/4-28s and you need a couple lengths, in my case 2", 2-1/2" and 3". Grade 5s are fine I got them at Homme Dee.

I bought a needle-thrust-bearing balancer puller & installer from Summit Racing, decent tool except for one flaw. First its shaft is also 3/4-16 so no adapters needed. Pulled the balancer quite easily. However the threaded shaft is not long enough to get it back together, I could have used a piece of 3/4-16 threaded rod, but alas none was available and so I substituted the original bolt.

As far as the bolt itself, it is either 7/8" or 15/16" (forget already). I used a long-handle ratchet sticking up next to the accessory drive and a tubular cheater-pipe to get some extra leverage. The bolt was on good-n-tite and I tried to put it back that way too...again lack of proper tools leaves something to be desired on the original torque-plus-angle strategy. Having to do it over again I'd probably paint or scribe a witness mark before doing anything and attempt to exceed this slightly upon retorquing.

All was well and I am back running again. Enjoy....C-H

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An excellent way around a tough problem. This may help others who have the same issue to resolve the same issue. Thanks for the post!

Agreed! Nice idea and good concept. Maybe make one with different bolt positions for different applications? Can I buy one???

Give me a couple months to get my shop built and I'll make up an extra part. Probably about 6 mos before I'm functional again but we are about to carve up the topsoil starting next week.