Photo-Etched parts by different makes

Hi guys

I recently purchased a Fujimi Ferrari F40 Taisan:

http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10066199

I've never really used etched parts before, but I would like to begin using them and thought the F40 would be a good start.

My question is, can you use photo-etched parts for the same car (F40) but where they state they are made for a certain manufacture for the kit?

I'm really interested in purchasing this etched part from hiroboy.com:
http://www.hiroboy.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=2463

It says its designed for the Tamiya version of the F40, but I figured since the Fujimi is set to the same scale it would still work ok?

Is it worth trying out or am I asking for trouble, lol :grinyes:

I would be wary of using a p/e set designed for another manufacturer's product as that set was designed using the Tamiya kit as a base model. Although the scale is the same, the proportions will vary, therefore, you may find that a lot of the parts on the p/e fret will not fit on the Fujimi kit. You may end up wasting your money and being left with something that is not quite 100%.

I would be wary of using a p/e set designed for another manufacturer's product as that set was designed using the Tamiya kit as a base model. Although the scale is the same, the proportions will vary, therefore, you may find that a lot of the parts on the p/e fret will not fit on the Fujimi kit. You may end up wasting your money and being left with something that is not quite 100%.
I would agree with that.
Some of the more generic parts will probably be usable such as wipers or seatbelts (if they are included) but other parts eg. grilles and meshes may well not fit easily/at all.

It's best to use a p/e set designed for a particular kit (and even they sometimes don't fit very well LOL). On the other hand, if you don't mind risking 15-20 bucks and are really keen to have some particular parts - why not give it a go?

Thanks for the replies guys

Confirms my doubts.... If I find it any cheaper I might give it a shot....

Failing that, I could save it and buy the Tamiya F40 kit which the p/e was designed for... its a different colour scheme so it will be different.

Photoetch can certainly add fun and complication to a build- but how much actual detail value it adds to a 1/24 kit is highly variable and subjective. PE parts are easy for a designer to make, but difficult to make well and truly useful- so a PE set nearly always has a number of parts that aren't necessary even for the kit it was designed for. Often a part will look better in injected plastic than it will in etched metal, and replacing the original kit part is actually a step backwards. Of course as the builder you get to decide what looks best and what is most fun for you. ;) But don't ever assume that because a PE part exists that it is the best solution for representing a component, or that it is necessary for a good build.

There is probably very little PE that the Fujimi kit really needs- I would say the grille mesh for the front and rear would be the most necessary for a 'real F40' look, but I have no idea if these would fit (you'd have to figure some way to get tail lights to fit also). PE logo scripts and seatbelt hardware can be nice (or they can be a real b!tch). The shifter gate would probably fit and look pretty good. Oil cooler and intercooler grilles will probably not fit. I would certainly sooner use sheet styrene for diffuser fins and spoiler lip (they will look as good and will be much easier to work with and paint). Pedals would work, but I'm not sure they'd look better than the kit parts covered with foil or painted aluminum. Brake rotors will probably not fit- but then etched nickel silver never looks like cast iron to me anyways.

I would guess you could probably find use for half or so of the parts. Personally I might use 25% or so if I were doing that build. Of course, whether it would be 13 quid worth of fun for you is yours to decide.

MPWR, interesting viewpoint.

I guess I naturally assumed a model kit + etched parts = BETTER always.

To be honest I am more interested in using it for the grills anyway, not too bothered about the other parts.

The Taisan kit includes a sheet of mesh and templates for the front and rear grills, so you don't need any PE for those.

I love photo-etch. It allows us to recreate objects in scale that look amazing. However, I think there is a growing trend in the aftermarket to fill these frets with "junk" that no one in their right mind would use on a model in the hopes that we consumers will purchase this stuff by the pound (i.e. bigger fret = bigger price).

I've begun looking at every single part on a photo-etch sheet BEFORE I buy it visualizing using it on the model. In doing this exercise I've begun to notice about 50% useless junk on many frets. Whats worse, often parts that would look better in photo-etch than plastic are missing entirely!

Take a look at some of the Studio 27 frets for the Fujimi EM stuff for example. There are, of course, brake rotor surfaces which make the already thick plastic part look totally ridiculous yet there are never any steering wheel centers. The fret for the Fujimi BB512 and Hasagawa TR are really hilarious. 2-D photo-etch parts to represent the distributor and ignition wires. Man, give me a break.

The Taisan kit includes a sheet of mesh and templates for the front and rear grills, so you don't need any PE for those.

Awesome! - Thanks for letting me know! :iceslolan

ello.
had a quick look at your modelling blog and just though you should know;
you shouldn't have filled in the lines on the rear wing/spoiler.

On the real car, the rear wing is adjustable and those lines are the edges of the moveable part.