Please help!! I love my car!! fast
jackjo
10-26-2009, 09:28 AM
I have a 1982 Malibu that is my baby. She's got a 3.8 liter 229 with a 2 barrel carb. All of the sudden, the engine starts backfiring through the carb and sputtering while I'm driving. The engine idles rough, reving up and down. So, I replaced the spark plugs, wires cap and rotor. Being sure not to get the wires crossed. I changed the oil, oxygen sensor, air filter, fuel filter and the fuel pump. By now I'm pretty tired. So I give it a try...... Still the exact same problem. Oh, did I mention the engine continues to run for like 5 minutes after I turn off the key? She sure wants to run !! Oh and when I get to like gear 2 or 3 of the automatic transmission, the engine boggs down and run really low in gear. Like when you shift from 1st to 4th gear in a manual.
Any ways, I decide to go all out and check the timing chain. Sure had a lot of slack in it. Very loose. This has to be it!! Nope.......still sounds like a helicopter.......poor girl. Someone help her please!
and i send pic in the (link removed by Moderator)
thank you
Any ways, I decide to go all out and check the timing chain. Sure had a lot of slack in it. Very loose. This has to be it!! Nope.......still sounds like a helicopter.......poor girl. Someone help her please!
and i send pic in the (link removed by Moderator)
thank you
jveik
10-28-2009, 10:19 PM
dieseling after the key is shut off is possibly a spark timing problem. if i remember right, overheating can cause this too. if it does this, put your foot on the brake and put it in gear and it should be enough to kill the engine. the whole backfiring thing sounds errily similiar to a problem i once had where i had a few wiped cam lobes. it should be a flat tappet hydraulic cam and therefore regular non-synthetic oil is not good enough for this type of cam anymore, because all the good stuff isnt in there anymore. i add comp cams break-in lube to some valvoline 10-40 on my hot rod because it has all the zinc and stuff that flat tappet cams need to keep from being damaged.
silicon212
10-29-2009, 12:41 AM
The symptoms smack of a flattened cam lobe or two or 5. That's my guess - replace the cam and lifters and it should all work out fine. As jveik said, make sure you use the proper oil and follow the proper break-in procedures. Use Valvoline racing oil, or Rotella-T 15w40 diesel engine oil and don't use anything else. INCLUDING synthetics.
manicmechanix
10-29-2009, 01:37 AM
What is that link in your post? Anyway I'm thinking you have carburetor problems. Usually diesiling happens when the idle is set too high and the mixture is too lean. Maybe you have a vaccuum leak. the carb probably needs cleaned and adjusted or overhauled.
MrPbody
10-29-2009, 07:38 AM
A compression test or "leak down" test is called for, to determine EXACTLY what the condition of the engine is.
Those early '80s GM cars were notorious for "carbon buildup" on the pistons. THAT can also cause dieseling. Too low an octane can, as well. I doubt the latter is the issue, as the 229 is designed for 87 octane.
To rid yourself of the carbon, Chevy told us to get the engine "warm". While running off-idle (about 2,000), pour ATF (trans fluid) down the throat of the carb (SLOWLY) until the engine "dies". Let it sit for an hour or so. Fire it up and keep it running. Once the smoke has "cleared", the carbon will be gone. Fixed more than one this way...
The only way ignition timing can cause dieseling, is if it's too far "retarded", causing excessive heat in the engine. In and of itself, timing is "out of the loop" when the ignition switch is "off".
FWIW
Jim
Those early '80s GM cars were notorious for "carbon buildup" on the pistons. THAT can also cause dieseling. Too low an octane can, as well. I doubt the latter is the issue, as the 229 is designed for 87 octane.
To rid yourself of the carbon, Chevy told us to get the engine "warm". While running off-idle (about 2,000), pour ATF (trans fluid) down the throat of the carb (SLOWLY) until the engine "dies". Let it sit for an hour or so. Fire it up and keep it running. Once the smoke has "cleared", the carbon will be gone. Fixed more than one this way...
The only way ignition timing can cause dieseling, is if it's too far "retarded", causing excessive heat in the engine. In and of itself, timing is "out of the loop" when the ignition switch is "off".
FWIW
Jim
Blt2Lst
10-29-2009, 10:48 AM
To rid yourself of the carbon, Chevy told us to get the engine "warm". While running off-idle (about 2,000), pour ATF (trans fluid) down the throat of the carb (SLOWLY) until the engine "dies". Let it sit for an hour or so.
What about GM top engine cleaner?
What about GM top engine cleaner?
MrPbody
10-29-2009, 01:39 PM
Don't know about it. Is it for the purpose of removing carbon build-up? Or is it a "conditioner" for the fuel?
Jim
Jim
Blt2Lst
10-29-2009, 01:47 PM
Don't know about it. Is it for the purpose of removing carbon build-up?
Jim
Yes it is for removing carbon build up and is used as you describe above with the ATF.
You do have to get at the dealer.
However, if the ATF works the same, why not use it, probably cheaper than the GM stuff is.
Jim
Yes it is for removing carbon build up and is used as you describe above with the ATF.
You do have to get at the dealer.
However, if the ATF works the same, why not use it, probably cheaper than the GM stuff is.
j cAT
11-05-2009, 07:41 PM
this vehicle has the defective emission control system in it...the charcoal cannister has a control diaphram..when this ruptures fuel surges into the intake by way of this vapor control system defective...make sure all vacuum lines don't smell like fuel or just leaks out fuel...
if this is the case after repairs are made GM top engine cleaner used to remove carbon [follow directions] is recommended then change oil and spark plugs...
excessive carbon will cause the engine to run on after shut down..
another issue is the EGR valve on these stick open very easy ,,and if old the power head [spring] is weak which is why..
if this is the case after repairs are made GM top engine cleaner used to remove carbon [follow directions] is recommended then change oil and spark plugs...
excessive carbon will cause the engine to run on after shut down..
another issue is the EGR valve on these stick open very easy ,,and if old the power head [spring] is weak which is why..
NY_SouthernComfort
11-14-2009, 07:39 AM
Hey Guys,
Look at what was written..... All this is is SPAM. I've seen this on other site's. Look at the link... What the heck does clothes have to do with a timing chain?
ITS "SPAM"
Look at what was written..... All this is is SPAM. I've seen this on other site's. Look at the link... What the heck does clothes have to do with a timing chain?
ITS "SPAM"
manicmechanix
11-14-2009, 04:03 PM
Yeah I wondered what the heck was up with that link. Oh well I guess there's still some good info in this thread for anyone in a similar situation.
MagicRat
11-15-2009, 11:07 AM
Hey Guys,
Look at what was written..... All this is is SPAM. I've seen this on other site's. Look at the link... What the heck does clothes have to do with a timing chain?
ITS "SPAM"
Thanks for the "heads up".
If or when you see spam again, just click on the "Report Post" link at the top right of the post in question. This alerts mods to the problem much quicker than making a complaint in the body of the thread.
Look at what was written..... All this is is SPAM. I've seen this on other site's. Look at the link... What the heck does clothes have to do with a timing chain?
ITS "SPAM"
Thanks for the "heads up".
If or when you see spam again, just click on the "Report Post" link at the top right of the post in question. This alerts mods to the problem much quicker than making a complaint in the body of the thread.
Torch
11-15-2009, 08:37 PM
Sounds to me like you are having several problems...
1 - The engine keeps running for five minutes... I'm assuming that you mean trying to run and bucking back forth surging and sputtering instead of shutting down, the carb is supposed to have an anti-diesel solenoid in it that shuts off the fuel flow to the carb when you turn off the ignition, where this is I'm not sure check your manual and verify that this is working correctly or replace it if needed.
Letting the engine diesel is never a good thing, you can end up breaking motor mounts or cause your crankshaft to break.
2 - Bogging down when coming out of first gear... something is preventing the engine from making power or is grossly over using the power that it is making, you have already replaced everything regarding the ignition system so its time to look else where.
2a - Pull all of your spark plugs and keep track of which cylinders they came out of, do they all look normal or are they badly fouled? Or are one or two badly fouled while the rest look fine?
2b - While all of the spark plugs are out disconnect the power to the ignition coil and do a compression test on all of the cylinders, consult your manual on whether or not you should do this with the carb's throttle plates blocked open or not (usually it is), your manual should also tell you what PSI is acceptable for the compression test.
2c - Remove your catalytic converter and verify that it is not plugged up inside, this is a common problem that causes car engines to bog down and stall or gradually loose power shortly after the engine has been started.
2d - Do a fuel pressure test right at the carb's fuel fitting, your manual should tell you what is acceptable, since you have a carb it should be something around 6psi.
3 - Back firing up the carb throat can only occur when the intake valves are open, and since they are being opened you should not have any flat lobes on your camshaft or collapsed lifters, this should be some kind of timing issue that is causing the spark plugs to fire when the intake valves are open. Do you have a stock ignition system or some kind of high energy after market ignition system?
4 - Follow the test procedures in your manual and verify that all of the emissions equipment is working correctly, is sounds like something is causing the timing to go way out of whack from where it is supposed to be.
5 - Listen to and smell your exhaust pipe when the engine is running normally and then listen to it again when the engine is malfunctioning, do you hear any odd noises and does the smell change, do you suddenly smell a lot more gas, oil, or anti-freeze? Does the exhaust also stay invisible or does it turn black, blue or white?
My final piece of advice (I give this advice to everyone) is not to throw parts at a car until you have a pretty good idea of what is wrong, in the end it will save you a lot of time, money, and frustration.
1 - The engine keeps running for five minutes... I'm assuming that you mean trying to run and bucking back forth surging and sputtering instead of shutting down, the carb is supposed to have an anti-diesel solenoid in it that shuts off the fuel flow to the carb when you turn off the ignition, where this is I'm not sure check your manual and verify that this is working correctly or replace it if needed.
Letting the engine diesel is never a good thing, you can end up breaking motor mounts or cause your crankshaft to break.
2 - Bogging down when coming out of first gear... something is preventing the engine from making power or is grossly over using the power that it is making, you have already replaced everything regarding the ignition system so its time to look else where.
2a - Pull all of your spark plugs and keep track of which cylinders they came out of, do they all look normal or are they badly fouled? Or are one or two badly fouled while the rest look fine?
2b - While all of the spark plugs are out disconnect the power to the ignition coil and do a compression test on all of the cylinders, consult your manual on whether or not you should do this with the carb's throttle plates blocked open or not (usually it is), your manual should also tell you what PSI is acceptable for the compression test.
2c - Remove your catalytic converter and verify that it is not plugged up inside, this is a common problem that causes car engines to bog down and stall or gradually loose power shortly after the engine has been started.
2d - Do a fuel pressure test right at the carb's fuel fitting, your manual should tell you what is acceptable, since you have a carb it should be something around 6psi.
3 - Back firing up the carb throat can only occur when the intake valves are open, and since they are being opened you should not have any flat lobes on your camshaft or collapsed lifters, this should be some kind of timing issue that is causing the spark plugs to fire when the intake valves are open. Do you have a stock ignition system or some kind of high energy after market ignition system?
4 - Follow the test procedures in your manual and verify that all of the emissions equipment is working correctly, is sounds like something is causing the timing to go way out of whack from where it is supposed to be.
5 - Listen to and smell your exhaust pipe when the engine is running normally and then listen to it again when the engine is malfunctioning, do you hear any odd noises and does the smell change, do you suddenly smell a lot more gas, oil, or anti-freeze? Does the exhaust also stay invisible or does it turn black, blue or white?
My final piece of advice (I give this advice to everyone) is not to throw parts at a car until you have a pretty good idea of what is wrong, in the end it will save you a lot of time, money, and frustration.
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