Ned's 91 GSX

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10-11-2009, 02:06 PM
I should have started this thread a while ago but I'm Ned and I own a 91 Eclipse GSX AWD as I'm sure you already know. Well this winter I plan to do some more moddifing basically to support what I already have plus some additions. We'll if your interested in a full mod list just check out my cardomain, link is at the bottom in my signature.

My winter plans are to replace the stock pump w/ a Walbro 255 and also rewire the pump. My one question about doing this is, I have an amp in the trunk already w/ a 12v lead from the battery to supply it's power. My question is, to rewire the pump you need to run a new lead wire to the pump, can I just use the same lead the amp uses? Would it be dangerous for amp and fuel pump running off the same 12v wire?

I'm also planning on a FMIC w/ the short route piping. With this I will also need to get a slim fan so what fan would you guys suggest without spending a fortune but still getting what I need. Considering a NX kit to spray nitrous on the intercooler, haven't exactly decided on this or not.

I have a dump tube that I'm thinking about installing, I keep talking myself out of it because I'm worried about how loud it will be. I've been having problems w/ keeping the downpipe nuts tight, they keep losing up after about a week of driving. I only drive about 30 minutes total a day and after a week you'd think the downpipe had come completely detached it's so loud.

I also need to take the FIAV block off plate back out because when shes cold she doesn't want to idle at all. I still have the idle surge that I can't seem to be able to figure out, been dealing with that for 2 years now.

Going to paint the car in the spring, not sure on a color yet. I'm thinking maybe gunmetal on the bottom and paint the spoiler, roof, and hood all black. Another color idea is burnt orange on the bottom and black the same as the idea above. If I do go w/ black I don't want it to be stupid glossy. I'm not sure exactly what I want but I have plenty of time to think about it.

Last but definitely not least I need a damn good tune done to her. I heard of a guy up in Rochester that deals a lot w/ DSMLink so I may take it to him after I the above mods done. I really need to get the surge taken care of first then I will move to the next mods.

I didn't get any new pics this year except for a few random pics but next year I will make it happen. Any suggestions please reply, I welcome all thoughts.

10-11-2009, 04:43 PM
Just started tearing it apart to get the FIAV out and just kinda get things cleaned up before I do the FMIC and what not. I did a boost leak test and there were no leaks so I guess my search continues w/ operation idle surge.

I pulled the TB off of course to get the plate off and so I decided to test the ISC/IAC motor to see if were bad or not. I put this one in hoping it would cure my issue but I never tested to make sure it was good. Well according to the Vfaq, there are 6 pins on the ISC motor. It says that that each coil should have a resistance between 28-33 ohms. I tested it the way it said to and these were my results:
1-2 > 30 ohms
2-3 > 55 ohms
4-5 > 30 ohms
5-6 > 30 ohms

So it looks like the "2-3" coil is bad. Need a new ISC!!

10-11-2009, 07:34 PM
Having an issue getting the inside bolt on the o2 housing off. Any suggestions?

10-11-2009, 11:15 PM
The the fuel pump you can use the power wire from your amp. I ran mine this way for about a year with no issues. Make sure to wire up a relay on it so its not on all the time.

10-12-2009, 09:41 PM
I was going to rewire w/ a relay like the vfaq says, I actually bought an installation kit off ebay that provides all that is needed to do it. I thought I would be able to use that wire but I didn't want the bass to hit and reduce the juice going to the fuel pump but in reality that shouldn't make a difference because no matter what hot wire I tap into the volts will be the same. Thanks for clearing that up, it wouldn't have made much sense running 2 wires so that makes things easier.

Any ideas on the o2 housing? I think if I lower the alternator I might be able to get to it then. Any thoughts?

Edit: VICTORY!! Got the O2 housing off, looks like I need a little bit of modifing to get the dump tube to work, as of right now it's blowing straight into the cross member below it. Got quite a bit pulled off today on my day off, here's a couple pics.

Got Radiator, fans, dump tube, and j pipe off and disconnected. My next steps are to get the bumper off and the vacuum lines cleaned up, going for the vacuum line removal. Makin it happen as often as possible.

Also need to get a 2g TB elbow in the future, it's not pressing right now but later in the future I will need it.

10-20-2009, 01:56 AM
Looks good, I need to do some winter cleaning as well but no money. I wouldnt recommend a nitrous intercooler sprayer, you will get far more gains running meth injection for the same price. I used a u joint and some skinny hands to get at that bolt on the vackside of the o2 housing. If you do go dump tube let me know how it it becasue IVe been debating that as well especially becasue i Have wicked boost creep with the CAT out but love the exhaust without the cat soooo much.

10-20-2009, 02:31 AM
I won't be driving it for a long time, at least for a few months so. I don't have a lot of money so that's why it's going to take me all winter to get what I want done. Stuff like the Vacuum line removal is going to cost me under $10 and even replacing the o rings in the power steering banjo bolt is only going to cost me under a dollar so stuff this that I can't wait to get done. I need to get an elbow welded onto the dump tube to make it vent properly other wise I'm going to have too much heat in the engine bay.

See in this pic how the dump is going straight into the crossmember below? Thats where I'm going to get an elbow welded on so it follows the curve of the downpipe.

10-20-2009, 01:12 PM
So I want to get the vacuum removal done today but having an issue figuring out what each of the items are in the this picture.
Here is what I'm trying to do



See in the top right corner of the first picture where it shows the Fuel pressure solenoid and the Evaporative emission purge solenoid. On the car there are 3 "things" in that corner of the car. In the Chiltons book it kinda looks like 4 things. So I can't figure out what is what, can anyone specify what is what? Thor, this might be your que...your a 1st gen guy.
I'm going to guess that the FP solenoid is all the way to the right but not positive about that.

10-21-2009, 07:59 AM
Figured the above issue out. I have a new question, what should I do w/ the large vacuum line on top of the charcoal canister? I probably shouldn't just plug it but should I hook it back up to the intake or will that create unfavorable conditions? Help

10-21-2009, 08:42 AM
I just ripped mine out completely. No sense in just plugging it and leaving it there if it can be taken out. Unless there is a sensor in it for 1g's?... Either way your gonna get a CEL from it.

10-21-2009, 09:02 PM
I'm good to go I think, I narrowed it down by process of elimination.

Going to try and get the fuel pump rewired this weekend.

10-21-2009, 09:11 PM
Figured it out by process of elimination.

Going to try and get the fuel pump rewired this weekend. I still need to get the Walbro 255 but I can at lease get it started.

vanilla gorilla
10-22-2009, 12:48 AM
Cant you like, delete out the CEL's with DSMlink, so that, they wont come back on. For things such as emissions delete.

10-22-2009, 09:48 PM
That's what I'm hoping. I'm going to look into it once I get the car all back together which won't be for a long time.

11-01-2009, 06:37 PM
Made some progress on the car today...very little but enough to say so anyway.

Ran the 12V lead wire from the battery to the fuel pump for the rewire. I've been soaking the piss out of the fuel line connection and the nuts that hold the sending unit in place. I'm pulling out that sending unit and installing a different sending unit w/ the walbro 255 installed in it. Check out how bad the original sending unit looks like...not sure how it's going to go w/ getting it out. Here's a few pics to showing progress.

Take note of the black wire in this picture, it's not even connected anymore. It was so corroded that it just kinda fell off. No worries the other sending unit will replace this anyway.

11-03-2009, 12:54 PM
Alright well I have a big problem now. I'm pulling the sending unit out now and I managed to get the fuel line off by cutting the line at the connection and putting a socket on the fitting. I had to use a breaker bar to break it loose thou.

Here's the problem, the nuts that hold the sending unit onto the tank are all corroded to the point where I can't put a socket or wrench on them.

What do I do in this situation?

I need help asap, I want to get this done today.

11-03-2009, 01:52 PM
Wow thats nasty as hell. Try takin off some of that corrosion with a wire brush and maybe use some vice grips. I would recommend cleaning that up very well before putting it back and replacing the nuts if you can. Good luck man

11-03-2009, 02:52 PM
I've decided that I'm going to dremel off the corroded nuts (lol that sounds funny).

My buddy has a dremel that I'm going to buy off him, he wants $30 and he's never used it before. He's bringing it by in a little while so I will update once I give it a shot. There's not that much there to cut off so it shouldn't take long. Also there's no gas leaking from the fuel line so I don't have to worry to much about that.

Edit: 9:28 pm still waiting on the dremel, hopefully soon I can get this done...

11-10-2009, 07:39 PM
Well finally got out there and just got it done. I got the dremel on sunday night so I started cutting the nuts and studs off that night. I blew through like 6 cut off discs and decided to get something a little bit more durable. I bought some reinforced discs on monday and did some more cutting last night. I also drilled the new holes through the sending unit where the new self tapping bolts would go. I cleaned up what was left of the nuts and I was able to use my finger nails and pull the sending unit up and out. I thought I was going to need a small pry bar but I managed with the claws of life. Well any way since I had the other sending unit all ready to go I just put a ton of rtv on it and put it in place. There was enough of the studs left that all I did was drop it in place where the holes lined up. I was kind of afraid to use a drill around the gas fumes because of the sparks you sometimes get in the internals of the drill itself. I tried to put the self tappers in by hand but I got no where doing that so I just winged it and used the drill. I just used it to get the bolts started then I tightened them by hand. It may look like a hack job but I really didn't have many other options with the tight quarters I was working in. I'm just hoping that it seals properly that's my only concern. I just have to finish up the rewire with the 2 wires left to connect and reinstall the cover plate and I'm done with all this shinanigans. I hope to get the rewire completed tonight so a couple more pics maybe later. I guess I can add the rewired 255 to my mod list if theres any more room.

Got 2 pics:



vanilla gorilla
11-10-2009, 09:01 PM
Looks way better than before. In the before picture why is it all wet looking? Was it leaking fuel?

11-10-2009, 10:45 PM
No it wasn't leaking fuel I had just soaked the piss out of it with some deep creep. I did that 2x a day for a week before starting the job. Its a totally different sending unit btw. I have to get some electrical tape then I will have the rewire complete and that project will be done. More pics to come in the next or so.

11-12-2009, 12:17 AM
Didn't realize I was out of female wire connectors so didn't finish it up yet. Got the relay mounted in it's final location and the wires ready to connect to the relay. I used regular wire connectors but also used that tubing you put over the wire then torch it until they tighten up to the wire. Looks pretty clean for the install just wish I had a final product to show but that will have to be tomorrow I guess. I don't know why I'm rushing, I have all winter. Edit: will I be ok running the pump side of the 12v wire to the relay using 14awg wire? In the instructions it mentions using a piece of 10awg for this connection but I don't think it really makes a difference, does it? Never mind I'm sure I'll be fine.

And of course we all love pictures!!

11-12-2009, 02:28 AM
14ga should be fine. Its much bigger than what is there stock.

11-12-2009, 03:01 AM
Jesus that thing looks like it came off a ship thats been sitting at the bottom of the ocean

11-12-2009, 10:18 AM
Should have I solder those wires together or will I be fine?

11-12-2009, 10:34 AM
Crimps are fine.

11-12-2009, 11:22 PM
Rewire is done and 255 is in. Here's a couple pics of the final product. Let me know what you think.

11-13-2009, 10:27 AM
Yea crimps are fine. Install looks very clean, good work. :Thumbsup:

Your system looks similar to mine. Are there boxes for the subs attached to that plate?

11-13-2009, 07:15 PM
When the hatch is closed the trunk acts as a box and it seals pretty good so I just let it go like that. They hit pretty hard so I'm happy with it.

11-15-2009, 09:46 PM
So now I'm pricing out FPR and I don't want to buy one that's over kill for what I have but I want it to be reliable but not expensive and also I want it to come w/ a gauge. has a few to choose from but I don't know what one I should go with? Also, is it a b**ch to connect this to the factory fuel line after it leaves the FPR?

Here are a link to a FPR I was looking at.

I mean I guess I could buy a FPR and just buy a gauge separate or something to save a little money. I know when I was looking on that site a couple weeks ago there selection for 1G was a lot bigger.

Any suggestions?

11-15-2009, 10:28 PM
That one looks fine. Just dont go with any thing cheap and you will be fine. Fuel lab and aeromotive seem to be the most popular. Now for installing it on a 4g63 I have no idea. Im guessing its going to be pretty hard on your car seeing how your fuel pump was so rusted/corroded and Im sure you probably have screw line connections like the 420a does, goog luck. :thumbsup:

11-15-2009, 10:57 PM
On the 4g63 it's not too bad. You just run the rubber fuel lines to the unit which is a piece of cake and then run the SS line from the unit to the fuel rail. Then of course a vacuum line. Ideally, should be piece of cake.

11-15-2009, 11:41 PM
Would I reuse the same vacuum line thats already on the stock FPR?

11-15-2009, 11:54 PM
You can as long as its still good.

11-16-2009, 12:51 AM
Well the stock fpr seemed to work fine so I could only assume that the vacuum line works fine.

11-24-2009, 01:03 PM
So looking into a EGT setup. Not sure what temp range I'm looking for, the ones I'm looking at are some Glow shift brand ones. Here's what I mean by temp range.

and also a wideband from them too, but concerned of reliability? any thoughts

11-24-2009, 01:31 PM
I have one of the Glowshift EGTs. Never had a problem with it. I was only seeing like 1200* tops on where it was at on the n/t setup. It's not installed on my new DP because I couldn't find a bung for it. But never had any issues with it. I would go with the 2400* one.

Never heard anything about the WB from them.

11-24-2009, 04:00 PM
Yea I would get a different WB. Something that you know works good and is accurate. I have never heard of anyone using this WB and I would be concerned with the accuracy of the unit. Also its not even that much cheaper, other WB are only a couple dollars more.

As for the EGT gauge, I would try to find one around 2000F. I hit about 1600F under high boost so you will want one to go to atleast 1600F.

11-24-2009, 10:39 PM
This may sound dumb but doesn't a EGT just help with finding the right AFR by watching the temp under certain conditions? Won't it just be redundant if I'm getting a WBO2 cause that will tell me exactly what AFR I'm at? Pardon my ignorance but learning as I go!

11-24-2009, 10:59 PM
Ya nowadays EGTs are kinda useless. Still good to know what's going on when it comes to heat, but you really don't need one these days. Before WBs, EGTs were basically the way to tune.

11-24-2009, 11:16 PM
The reason I asked is because I have a 2 spaces as of right now for gauges. One is being used by the boost/vac gauge and the other is being used by a narrow band AFR gauge. So what I'm going to do is replace the narrow band w/ the wideband gauge, but was considering a EGT but I don't see the reason in spending the money if it's not necessary. I haven't read much about installing the w/b into Link but how involved is that? I'm going to do it but what all needs to be done to install it?

11-24-2009, 11:50 PM
Nearly all Widebands have an output on the units that you hook up to some logger or device. On MegaSquirt, that output goes to the unit and reads it there. I want to say DSMLink is probably the same way.

vanilla gorilla
11-25-2009, 12:14 AM
+1 just run the wideband, forget EGT.

11-25-2009, 07:52 AM
I mean when it comes to wiring it in, is it difficult to tap into the ecu wiring?

11-25-2009, 08:22 AM
Here's another dummy question, ebay oil catch cans? any thoughts?

vanilla gorilla
11-25-2009, 10:19 AM
Oil catch can is an oil catch can.

11-25-2009, 10:33 AM
For the WB you have the power wires and then the wires coming from the WB. Then there's the 1 wire to hook up to the 3rd party logger or whatever. The AEM UEGO has everything in a nice harness and is very easy.

There's debates on catch cans. You want the crank case to still be able to breath properly so a lot fo people use a dual catch can on their turbo models. There's a big thread and diagrams on Tuners about this. I have 1. Any oil coming out will get caught in the can and the flowing air goes back in. Going to add a filter to the top of it so fresh air can cycle in. But ebay catch cans work fine. The only reason why those "vender" cans are so expensive is because they're all custom built by hand instead of mass-produced.

11-25-2009, 12:04 PM
EGTs are just so you dont melt your internals. Dave is right, they use to be the way to tune but not so much anymore. I wouldn't say its a useless gauge by any means but a WB is deffinately needed asap.

Ebay catchcans are fine, its just a metal can so its pretty hard to mess that up.

11-25-2009, 12:21 PM
I figured that with the catch can, looks like I can score one for like 20 bucks off ebay. I'm going to definitely get a WBO2 just have to wait till spring along with the FMIC. I'm just goning to get a catch can in a couple weeks.

11-25-2009, 11:03 PM
Got the ISC and the 2g TB elbow in and I didn't expect the difference to be so extreme! I also pulled the 160 degree thermostat pulled back out and reinstalled the 180 degree one I had on hand. Also put the battery and tray back in. I got a used center grill emblem piece that was a little hazzy but I cleaned it up with some Maguires and some wet sand paper. Couple pics from the night.

11-26-2009, 12:01 AM
Wow that TB elbow necks down a lot. That rediculous that they even put that shit on there.

11-26-2009, 11:19 AM
Wow that TB elbow necks down a lot.

Why would they even bother ya know.

and I'm thinking about making my own oil catch can out of something cool.

11-27-2009, 06:46 PM
So when I bought my car, it had a home made oil catch can. On the end that would normally go to the intake, it went to a breather filter. So I being a dumb learning guy pulled it out and threw it in my drawer in the garage. Well in one of my logs, the guys on ECM forums noticed I had that vent/vac line going straight to a filter and venting to atmosphere. He said I should have it recirculated so I just put the home made catch can back into the car but I ran a vac line to the MAF housing to recirculate it. Well that's when I noticed that I was smoking out the exhaust a bit and that's when I noticed the vac line I connected at the MAF housing was actually drawing oil through the turbo.

So after that long story what could have I done wrong to have caused the oil to pull through the intake like it did? Also I noted that the catch can was empty once reinstalled. I would like to just clean this guy back up and put it back in but I don't want the same problem.

12-02-2009, 08:34 PM
So what are your guys thoughts on 2g maf on a 1g? Is it recommended? Is there an option in link for this set up?

Another question, does the ECU need to be pulled to install a WBO2?

12-04-2009, 07:57 AM
Any thoughts?

12-04-2009, 09:38 AM
No idea with you having DSMLink. Seems like the WB should just hook up to some wire at some point, but again, no idea.

And also no ideas with MAF. 420a FTW

12-04-2009, 11:14 AM

Should help out a little

12-04-2009, 12:43 PM
Wow triple post FTL. Work internet = FAIL. My bad

12-04-2009, 09:52 PM

Should help out a little

Dude I searched for like 2 days trying to find anything that would help me, guess I was looking in the wrong place. Thanks

Edit:looks like pin 15 is my queen. This may sound dumb but do I just simply cut the wire at the ECU and wire it in?

12-05-2009, 11:36 AM
Again, not 100% sure, but I would just tap into it to start.

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