EGR valve

1999 regal 3800.........can anyone tell me where my EGR valve is located? thanx.....JOE

On the LS, its on the driver side back near the firewall. Looks like a metal "mushroom"... hard to miss

What specific EGR related issue are you having? Do you have a diagnostic trouble code (DTC)? If so post it.

Local parts store read the code...said I have a bad EGR valve. On the highway, the engine kind of flutters and shorly after my Service Engine Soon light will come on. Thanx fer reading ...........JOE

You can try cleaning the EGR valve by using carburetor cleaner inside the EGR cavity to clean and loosen the carbon on the back side of the pintel. Keep the EGR inverted so as to not allow the carb cleaner to drain into the electronic solenoids. Let it sit for about 1-hour with the carb cleaner, then use a brass brush to clean under the seat. Pour out the carb cleaner and use brake clean for the final wash, then dry with compressed air. Next, soak the same cavity with PB-Blaster and rotate to allow the penetrate to soak the pintel rod well for about 15-min while moving the pintel back & forth off of the seat with a small screwdriver, then pour the excess out. (do not blow out with air) then reinstall. Total cost less than 5-bucks! :grinyes:

http://img253.imageshack.us/img253/772/12wq7.jpg

Seems to me that I am having the same problem. I did not run it much over the winter and the same codes are coming up. Where do I go from here? Thanx...JOE

Seems to me that I am having the same problem. I did not run it much over the winter and the same codes are coming up. Where do I go from here? Thanx...JOE

What codes? Be sure to post the DTC(s).

codes are 1404 and 404

P0404:
Exhaust Gas Recirculation Control Circuit Range/Performance (out of spec.. and probably sticking).

I had the same EGR valve error 404 back in January along with P0300 (random misfire detected).

The engine was on and running fine. Then it started missing at idle when fully wamed up and surging a bit. There was no warning, I was driving along and when I stopped it started missing.

I unbolted the EGR valve and did some carbon cleaning very similar to what was described above and it worked on the first try.

While I had the valve out I also tested the EGR position feedback circuit and found that it worked fine. It's a variable resistor with about 4k total resistance between pins B and D. C is the center tap which changes resistance as you move the valve pintle.

The electrical connectors are in a row like this.
A-B-C-D-E

I suspect the coil will energize with 12V of either polarity. The connector layout is pretty much symmetrical.

A: EGR valve control
B: EGR pintle position ground
C: EGR pintle position signal
D: 5V reference A
E: 12V Feed (EGR valve Ignition positive voltage).

A ----- E main actuator coil
B ---- -D position sensor resistor (C is centertap)

So the outer 2 pins (A and E) are directly across the actuator coil. It runs on 12V DC max but is smoothly variable.
I used a regulated and current limited power supply to test it.

The Pintle started pulling in when I reached 5V DC (400mA at the time) and as you raise the voltage it smoothly pulls in farther. Mine was fully actuated at 10V DC.

If you clean your EGR valve it will probably be fine.
And if interested you can perform some basic electrical tests as well. It's a pretty simple circuit.

well.................the pintle was pretty clean but I shot it up with PB blaster anyhow. It moves freely up and down with no soot around the seat. Will test drive in the morn..............will let yall know what happens.....................JOE

When you take your EGR valve off there is a gasket that has a screen that helps to stop carbon from going into the EGR stoping the pintal from moving. I have bought these at Auto Zones and I am sure other stores have them as well. I have used these on other GM's and have good luck using it.

I ended up having to replace the EGR valve and so far all is well except for my wallet. Got no flutter and car runs good. Thank you for all your help.............JOE