2000 2.4 Stalling Issues

I have a 2000 Z24 2.4 Convertible and it stalls alot. It starts fine and drives fine but when im just driving down the road it stalls on me. I have to let it sit for about 10 mins and then it starts back up. But then just to do it again down the road... PLEASE help. Thanks:banghead:

I would start with checking for spark or fuel when it doesn't start. I'm guessing but It sounds like you may be loosing spark. Possibly a crank sensor? Really common for them to fail when they get hot and work when they cool down. Just a thought.

Start with the basics. Whats missing, fuel or spark, and go from there.

sounds alot like coil packs. when they start going bad they dont work when they get hot, like after the engines been running a little bit. after they cool down, they work fine again for a little bit

sounds alot like coil packs. when they start going bad they dont work when they get hot, like after the engines been running a little bit. after they cool down, they work fine again for a little bit

You might be thinking of a 2.5 or a 2.2. The 2.4 has the coils in the coil tower that mounts under the upper engine cover.

Thank you i will check... I know the fuel pump still turns on when i turn the key back forward, and i have already replaced the fuses and relays. Oh and also the filter... I have to be driving it in order for it to stall. I have let it idle for hours and nothing happens.. I will try these and see what happens.

You might be thinking of a 2.5 or a 2.2. The 2.4 has the coils in the coil tower that mounts under the upper engine cover.

Yes the coils are under the engine cover.. Could some of them not be touching all the way since the last time i replaced the plugs.. I know they can be hard to get on all the way?

Could it at all be this??????????

fransd
07-04-2009, 02:29 AM

Toyota (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/#) cavalier 2.4 stalling problem is maybe a design fault.
A small hose, going from the resonator box to the oil separator, maybe a major cause of the cavalier2.4 stalling problems. The resonator box sits above the air intakehttp://images.intellitxt.com/ast/adTypes/2.gif (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/#), its part of the black plate above the throttle (nearest the radiator)
The resonator box is attached to the throttle body and also has a little spout with a small hose attached which goes to the oil separator. This hose is suppose to suck the fumes from the crankcase back into the air intake and so back through the combustion cycle. This car requires the crankcase to have a vacuum. Presumable so that hot oil fumes do not affect the cam and crankcase sensors. (these are major sensors and not cheap)
So that hose needs good airflow, but…unbelievingly, this hose has a build in kink or buckle so as to make it easier to fit in place. Close examination show that just above the buckle the hose is softer and easy to further depress so as to close it right off. The air suction might not close it right off but most probably reduces the air flow considerable
I have replaced that hose with a strong reinforced hot water hose and cut exactly the right length so as enable to shape it in a fair curve without buckle or kink and yes for some days now, although I am still a bit nervy driving it, I have put the car through some good testing and not one warning light or stall (so far)
I'll be happy if this would help some of you with a same problem
Don't forget the spark plug (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/#) gap, .060'' or 1.5mm or just slightly less

You might be thinking of a 2.5 or a 2.2. The 2.4 has the coils in the coil tower that mounts under the upper engine cover.

you're absolutely correct