My '07 Suburban with 55k miles has a "slip and grab" feeling coming from the rearend (when leaving a dead stop, rounding corners at low speed, and coming to a stop). Almost feels like a bad universal joint. The guy at the local axle shop tells me that this is common among GM trucks. He said that he has never seen one fail, but when I get sick of the feeling to have the rearend replaced. He said that it has something to due with the traction control "govenors". I will be taking the vehicle to a GM dealership (since this is drivetrain related and under the 100k warranty. I was wondering if anyone could clarify, deny or add to the "axle guys" claims. As I would like to be as specific as possible when talking to the dealership. Thanks in advance, for any help you may offer.

My '07 Suburban with 55k miles has a "slip and grab" feeling coming from the rearend (when leaving a dead stop, rounding corners at low speed, and coming to a stop). Almost feels like a bad universal joint. The guy at the local axle shop tells me that this is common among GM trucks. He said that he has never seen one fail, but when I get sick of the feeling to have the rearend replaced. He said that it has something to due with the traction control "govenors". I will be taking the vehicle to a GM dealership (since this is drivetrain related and under the 100k warranty. I was wondering if anyone could clarify, deny or add to the "axle guys" claims. As I would like to be as specific as possible when talking to the dealership. Thanks in advance, for any help you may offer.

It should not be kicking in unless one wheel is spinning.
If it is under warranty let the dealer take care of it.
Let us know how it goes.

The Dealership claims that it is a worn yoke assembly. They are ordering the part and will replace it on Friday. They said that there is a service bulletin on this part/vehicle. I hope that it solves my problem...I'll let all of you know next week.

The Dealership claims that it is a worn yoke assembly. They are ordering the part and will replace it on Friday. They said that there is a service bulletin on this part/vehicle. I hope that it solves my problem...I'll let all of you know next week.


what rear diff is this ? open / locking ?
the locking diff requires the diff fluid to be replaced after 1000mi when the vehicle is to be used for towing or hauling..

the first 500mi the gears need to be hardened by easy driving.. the temperatures with these diff's will get very hot and many have had cracked broken teeth as the metal gets brittle and then cracks after a time..

if the rear end is in need of replacement break it in easy..

The Dealership claims that it is a worn yoke assembly. They are ordering the part and will replace it on Friday. They said that there is a service bulletin on this part/vehicle. I hope that it solves my problem...I'll let all of you know next week.

so is this a TSB?? If so can you post the TSB # for us

-Slyder

I've noticed this on my 2005 silverado 2500hd. Occasionally, from a stop on bare pavement, it feels as if one wheel slips 1/8 turn. I have a hard time believing it is anything in the differential, and I,m wondering if it could be a sprag in the transmission slipping?

The Dealership claims that it is a worn yoke assembly. They are ordering the part and will replace it on Friday. They said that there is a service bulletin on this part/vehicle. I hope that it solves my problem...I'll let all of you know next week.

its been awhile since you posted this ,,,how was this resolved ?

They claim to have replaced the yoke. I didn't hear or feel anything for about 3 weeks. Now the same problem is happening again. I will be making another appointment with them soon.

....Slyder. I'm a novice...Please use english...what does the acronym TSB mean?

The Vehicle is an '07 Suburban LTZ with towing package, electronic "tow button", optional 2wd, 4wd, AWD. I hope this helps.

They claim to have replaced the yoke. I didn't hear or feel anything for about 3 weeks. Now the same problem is happening again. I will be making another appointment with them soon.

....Slyder. I'm a novice...Please use english...what does the acronym TSB mean?

The Vehicle is an '07 Suburban LTZ with towing package, electronic "tow button", optional 2wd, 4wd, AWD. I hope this helps.


who is "THEY" ? I find it hard to believe on a 2007 anything is worn unless you had fluid loss...

I had a clunk issue on moving from a stop..it was just replacing the transfercase fluid...this was at the 30,000mi about 2 years old..dealer did it on warrantee...since then I replace transfercase fluid at 30,ooomi. no clunks...rear diff needs fluid replacement also ..

TSB means a technical service bulletin that GM puts out to all dealerships/tech's..

this info is not given to vehicle owners...you must lookup and using NHTSA find what TSB'S have been issued on your vehicle..then go to dealership with the TSB number to get the specific info...

Just sent you the PM but it looks like we have different issues. Do you have it set to "Auto" all the time? The clunking I had from accelerating after a stop lessened considerably when I set it to 2wd. I never had the problem through turns or stopping.

J cat, I had my transfer case crap out(due to worn parts no less). New parts, new fluids, same clunking. Probably somewhere else down the line.

J cat, I had my transfer case crap out(due to worn parts no less). New parts, new fluids, same clunking. Probably somewhere else down the line.

if you have 2wd/4wd in your vehicle,it is important to know this is NOT full time 4WD...that is 4WD in any form is NOT to be used on dry solid pavement.

with any componet even with proper operation and care/maintenece ,failures may occur..

on your clunking with an older high mileage vehicle the yokes do wear..also the rear diff and U joints can also cause you noises..

this is why its hard to diagnose on the internet..

the rear diff ..many do not remove the cover on fluid replacement , this then means traped metal debris is allowed to remain and wear out parts in the rear diff..

many feel the diff is defective design ..they should have never put the drain plug in...

to speed up lube jobs they just suck out old fluid and replace ..more money in their pocket and you loose..

who is "THEY" ? I find it hard to believe on a 2007 anything is worn unless you had fluid loss...

I'm aware failures can/do happen. I said what I did in response to your quote above. It's my understanding that transfer cases for this model are prone to wear and failure.

My system has the selector with 2HI, AUTO, 4HI, 4LOW(think it's pretty standard). The clunking was worse in AUTO.(There was ice all over, I had reason to have AUTO selected). I don't drive on dry pavement in 4HI and I do know the difference.

I'm aware failures can/do happen. I said what I did in response to your quote above. It's my understanding that transfer cases for this model are prone to wear and failure.

My system has the selector with 2HI, AUTO, 4HI, 4LOW(think it's pretty standard). The clunking was worse in AUTO.(There was ice all over, I had reason to have AUTO selected). I don't drive on dry pavement in 4HI and I do know the difference.

so how do the U joints look...since you appear to have the other issues that are common with this...covered....

Just sent you the PM but it looks like we have different issues. Do you have it set to "Auto" all the time? The clunking I had from accelerating after a stop lessened considerably when I set it to 2wd. I never had the problem through turns or stopping.

Yes, my wife drives this vehicle primarily, so we leave it in "AUTO" all the time as a safety feature. Could this have contributed to my current problem...? Is it possible that it is the transfer case? I hate going to the dealership "unarmed". I would like to bombard them with information. So please share.

Yes, my wife drives this vehicle primarily, so we leave it in "AUTO" all the time as a safety feature. Could this have contributed to my current problem...? Is it possible that it is the transfer case? I hate going to the dealership "unarmed". I would like to bombard them with information. So please share.

the vehicle need be in 2WD at all times on dry solid pavement..this is part time 4WD..therefore when you go to the dealership for the warrantee DO NOT tell them this was always in auto 4WD...


when in AUTO the front axles are locked together,,this reduces MPG and increases drive train wear...

also with this vehicle ALL tires need be at the same wear pattern..this means tire rotations every 10-15,ooomi...with tires of different wear the drive train gets beat to failure...

the vehicle need be in 2WD at all times on dry solid pavement..this is part time 4WD..therefore when you go to the dealership for the warrantee DO NOT tell them this was always in auto 4WD...


when in AUTO the front axles are locked together,,this reduces MPG and increases drive train wear...

also with this vehicle ALL tires need be at the same wear pattern..this means tire rotations every 10-15,ooomi...with tires of different wear the drive train gets beat to failure...

I rotate the tires every 6K. The previous owner did not. Thank You for the info about driving in 2WD vs. Auto. My question remains....what do I tell them is the problem??? I want them to fix it this time as opposed to having to make 4-5 more appointments to get it fixed. Should I say "transfer case"? Or should I just be vague and say "something's not right, fix it please."??? I wonder if I can get one of the dealerships mechanics to drive it first? They always seem like they're knowledge is better than hands on experience. Thanks Again.

I rotate the tires every 6K. The previous owner did not. Thank You for the info about driving in 2WD vs. Auto. My question remains....what do I tell them is the problem??? I want them to fix it this time as opposed to having to make 4-5 more appointments to get it fixed. Should I say "transfer case"? Or should I just be vague and say "something's not right, fix it please."??? I wonder if I can get one of the dealerships mechanics to drive it first? They always seem like they're knowledge is better than hands on experience. Thanks Again.

when a problem like this occurs the vehicle owner and repair tech should go for a test drive..the service manager need be told what exactly you feel is the problem and why ...and since they did nothing the last time I would point this out , of there past repair results...


the drive train has some issue and rather than guessing this needs front to rear drive train inspection...they replaced parts on a TSB that applied to your vehicle , most likely...since they did not repair this correctly the first time finding another dealer would be an option...as well...

they are the experts so they say ...they are supposed to correct problems/find solutions not the owner ..