trans vaccume lines--and more, 85 s-10

first, i'm replacing a 5 speed in a 2.8l s-10.

second--what are those 3 vacume lines that attach near the top for? is there any specific order or placement for them? but most importantly, what are they for?

third, replacing the trans because the front seal went out ... or, soemthing else up there that throws a ton of oil on the y-pipe, and makes more smoke than a herd of chainsmoking bufallo. BUT, i also noticed that when i would come up to a stop sign, or light, and leave the trans in 3rd gear, but the clutch was in... when i would STOP, the trans would make a loud whine, it would speed up for about 2 seconds, and fade over 5-10 seconds... would quit instantly when pulled from 3rd. and didnt do it in any other gear--what would cause that?

thanks for answers ahead of time.

first, i'm replacing a 5 speed in a 2.8l s-10.

second--what are those 3 vacume lines that attach near the top for? is there any specific order or placement for them? but most importantly, what are they for?

third, replacing the trans because the front seal went out ... or, soemthing else up there that throws a ton of oil on the y-pipe, and makes more smoke than a herd of chainsmoking bufallo. BUT, i also noticed that when i would come up to a stop sign, or light, and leave the trans in 3rd gear, but the clutch was in... when i would STOP, the trans would make a loud whine, it would speed up for about 2 seconds, and fade over 5-10 seconds... would quit instantly when pulled from 3rd. and didnt do it in any other gear--what would cause that?

thanks for answers ahead of time.

I would check clutch and throw out bearing when transmission is out.

hre is no vacuum line to transmission but if 4W the transfer case may have a vacuum switch on it.

MT2500 is correct. I would add that you should observe whether or not the rear main seal is leaking oil into the bellhousing/clutch area. With the tranny out, it's a good time to look at that area closely. With luck, it's a one-piece canned seal that can be pried out and a new one driven in with a socket or bearing driver. Less user-friendly is a two-piece seal; if that is the case, then removal of the oil pan and rear main cap is required for replacement.