I have a 98 tahoe 5.7l. I replaced the dash in it yesterday. Now it will turn over but will not stay running. I am 99.9 % positive that i plugged all my wires back in .During the process of dismantling i took the wire out top the ignition but then put it back. I heard something about the security link being diconnected but it's not. What could be causing it not to run? What else could it be? HELLLLLLPPPP!!!

I have a 98 tahoe 5.7l. I replaced the dash in it yesterday. Now it will turn over but will not stay running. I am 99.9 % positive that i plugged all my wires back in .During the process of dismantling i took the wire out top the ignition but then put it back. I heard something about the security link being diconnected but it's not. What could be causing it not to run? What else could it be? HELLLLLLPPPP!!!

did you disconnect the negative side of the battery before you started this dash work ??

if it starts and engine runs a couple of seconds this is usually the security ...may have to go thru the relearn process..

yes i did. # 1 rule when working on electrical or dealing with the air bags.

As far as the relearn process, how is this done? I don't have the original keypad and i also have an Omega alarm hooked up on the vehicle.

yes i did. # 1 rule when working on electrical or dealing with the air bags.

As far as the relearn process, how is this done? I don't have the original keypad and i also have an Omega alarm hooked up on the vehicle.

because GM changed this so many times,,,hopefully someone will give you the info...or look in the owners manual/dealer help..

with your other alarm that is another issue as well...

From my '98 C/K service manual:

1st. You need to check for any DTC's, both VCM and Passlock related,write them down and then clear the codes. Most VCM codes start with a Pxxx and Passlock codes start with a Bxxx. Most over the counter code readers will not access the Passlock module!!

Now rotate the key to the CRANK position and immediately release it to the ON position and leave it on the ON position for 10 minutes. The SECURITY light should either flash for a couple of secs and then come on steady for the 10 mins and then go out or flash for the 10 mins and then go out.

If all this happens with the SEC light after 10 mins turn the key to OFF and wait 10 secs.

Repeat the above 2 more times. The whole thing takes around 30 mins.

This is the relearn process and if successful the motor should start and run after the 3rd 10 min procedure.

Hope it works for you.

ok was taken to the dealer ship and they say they reprogramed the security system but still no start. no further diagnosis was done because part of my dash was taken aloose. what is the probability that this is the fuel pump?

ok was taken to the dealer ship and they say they reprogramed the security system but still no start. no further diagnosis was done because part of my dash was taken aloose. what is the probability that this is the fuel pump?

originally you stated it starts then quickly dies,,this is usually the security ...if it don't start just cranks sure could be fuel pump ....fuses and other things..need a simple quick fuel pressure test ...need about 60psi...key on engine off....

since your at the dealer this could be very bad..remember they don't make money fixing 11year old vehicles,,,,!It's people like you that are causing GM problems...

originally you stated it starts then quickly dies,,this is usually the security ...if it don't start just cranks sure could be fuel pump ....fuses and other things..need a simple quick fuel pressure test ...need about 60psi...key on engine off....

since your at the dealer this could be very bad..remember they don't make money fixing 11year old vehicles,,,,!It's people like you that are causing GM problems...

It's people like u that cause people to be out of character. I stated my problem and if u had to put in a comment like that u could've kept your mouth closed. The only reason it was at the dealer is cause i tried all diagnostics i could and was advised by someone at the shop to brinng it in. The #^** they don't make money of an 11 yr old vehicle if the average part is $300 and diagnostics is $60-90. Gm causes their own problem, not i or any other consumer. I suppose i just caused your problem with the bs input u had to say? Ha, No u caused it yourself for saying something u didn't need to when u don't know me or anything about except for what i've stated in this forum. Some people think they know everything!!!!

It's people like u that cause people to be out of character. I stated my problem and if u had to put in a comment like that u could've kept your mouth closed. The only reason it was at the dealer is cause i tried all diagnostics i could and was advised by someone at the shop to brinng it in. The #^** they don't make money of an 11 yr old vehicle if the average part is $300 and diagnostics is $60-90. Gm causes their own problem, not i or any other consumer. I suppose i just caused your problem with the bs input u had to say? Ha, No u caused it yourself for saying something u didn't need to when u don't know me or anything about except for what i've stated in this forum. Some people think they know everything!!!!

I was making a couple of points here one is GM considers your vehicle beyond its life cycle...2nd the dealership does not make any money repairing 11 year old vehicles...they make profit on selling new vehicles...
when you bring a old vehicle like this in for repairs they usually charge alot..

this is not a secret...thats why there going down big time even with our tax bailout...

well sorry i can't keep up with other people and buy a new vehicle every few years to help GM get out a mess they put themselves in. I do have other obligations to myself and my family. Also u going to tell me they don't make anything off of a $300 part let alone putting it on? I doubt very seriously. You may not have meant any harm, but again something that could've been kept out of the post. Thanks for the positive input though.

well sorry i can't keep up with other people and buy a new vehicle every few years to help GM get out a mess they put themselves in. I do have other obligations to myself and my family. Also u going to tell me they don't make anything off of a $300 part let alone putting it on? I doubt very seriously. You may not have meant any harm, but again something that could've been kept out of the post. Thanks for the positive input though.

with the economic condition where all in, the dealership is not the place to go when vehicles this old have problems....if you had a newer vehicle they would be a good choice with a problem other shops could not repair..

its just not in their best interest to fix these clunkers...storing old parts costs money, takes up storage stocking space..also they rarely will give you any guarantee that the parts replaced will correct the problem..

some vehicle owners think the dealerships are the experts,,,not on older vehicles...

ok thanks Dr. Phil. You made your point days ago, not that it really mattered to me. Now lets agree to disagree. You can believe what you want and i'll believe what i want.

ok thanks Dr. Phil. You made your point days ago, not that it really mattered to me. Now lets agree to disagree. You can believe what you want and i'll believe what i want.

since your the one paying for this , I agree to disagree with your actions...

so what did they find ,,,how much to fix all of this...?

I have a 98 tahoe 5.7l. I replaced the dash in it yesterday. Now it will turn over but will not stay running. I am 99.9 % positive that i plugged all my wires back in .During the process of dismantling i took the wire out top the ignition but then put it back. I heard something about the security link being diconnected but it's not. What could be causing it not to run? What else could it be? HELLLLLLPPPP!!!

OK. Enough bickering. Been there and done that. Not productive!!

Back to the original post and some ?'s for you.

1. Was everything good before you replaced the dash?
2. If you suspect the passlock, did you perform the procedure I suggested to the the letter?
3. What ignition wire did you remove and then put back in?
4. If you suspect the fuel pressure then post back readings from a pressure gauge.

j caT. You would better serve this forum by just answering the questions as best you can and not assaulting folks with your views on dealerships and politics. Just MHO and I will not engage you in a bickering match over it.

this guy has given no feedback...re read all of this...his is just pissed off because he screwed up his ride and its gonna cost about a grand to fix at the dealership

first it was a start then stall..now it just cranks...what did the dealership replace for 300.oo ?what was the fuel pressure results?
I don't think he is working on this ...just probing for quick answers...to check up on the repair work being done...


maybe he will respond to your questions ...I'm done with this guy...

to 777 stickman: the truck started fine before i attempt to work on the dash, i even went to the store before i started.
2. passlock was performed to the letter. light never came on
3. my truck has 3 wires running out the top of the ignition switch. colors are yellow, black, and i think orange.
4. fuel pressure was suspected on part of a mechanic i use from time to time that didn't have a gauge.

To Jcat: I am far from pissed about my truck because i do have another vehicle i own to ride in. What i was pissed about is your political comments that could have been kept to yourself as stated before. I never said i spent 300 at the dealer. I only used that as a point for you to see where i am coming. Now everything i stated about my problem is as it goes and was checked. After replacing the dash truck started and ran for a sec or two. The next time i posted the truck was only cranking and not starting. You may be trying to help, but i someone comes at me the way i will get on the defensive which is one reason your questions weren't answered. Oh and by the way, I only spent 35 bucks at the dealer.:grinno:

to 777 stickman: the truck started fine before i attempt to work on the dash, i even went to the store before i started.
2. passlock was performed to the letter. light never came on
3. my truck has 3 wires running out the top of the ignition switch. colors are yellow, black, and i think orange.
4. fuel pressure was suspected on part of a mechanic i use from time to time that didn't have a gauge.

To Jcat: I am far from pissed about my truck because i do have another vehicle i own to ride in. What i was pissed about is your political comments that could have been kept to yourself as stated before. I never said i spent 300 at the dealer. I only used that as a point for you to see where i am coming. Now everything i stated about my problem is as it goes and was checked. After replacing the dash truck started and ran for a sec or two. The next time i posted the truck was only cranking and not starting. You may be trying to help, but i someone comes at me the way i will get on the defensive which is one reason your questions weren't answered. Oh and by the way, I only spent 35 bucks at the dealer.:grinno:

Sorry about the head from Jcat.
Hang in there with stick man.
But a few questions and sugestions to help get to the bottom of your problem.

Fuel pressure can be checked with a fuel pressure gauge.
for a cold start you will need 64-65 lbs to squirt injectors.

To test for a fuel delivery problem squirt some carb cleaner into intake and see if it will start/run on carb cleaner.

Does it have a add on remote start or security system?
Does security light come on key on and then go off?

If just a no start always confirm good spark to all plugs.
If a start and run 2 seconds and shut down recheck the security system.

And as always check fuses and power to fuse box.
Do you have any way to check codes?

Hey no prob, like everybody i come for advice from all that may help.
Haven't been able to get fuel pressure checked like it should be. Today i took a gas soaked rag and put in the throttle body and put the cover back on and it ran for about 5 seconds and cut off. Did this twice. The alarm was taken off before i went to the dealer and wires are back like usual. Light still doesn't come on. I will recheck plugs tomorrow. Checked all fuses today and are good. No way to check for codes.

Hey no prob, like everybody i come for advice from all that may help.
Haven't been able to get fuel pressure checked like it should be. Today i took a gas soaked rag and put in the throttle body and put the cover back on and it ran for about 5 seconds and cut off. Did this twice. The alarm was taken off before i went to the dealer and wires are back like usual. Light still doesn't come on. I will recheck plugs tomorrow. Checked all fuses today and are good. No way to check for codes.


If a some gas starts it for 5 seconds that confirms fuel delivery problem.

If fuel pressure is low or even a few lbs low the injectors will not squirt on a cold start.
Confirm fuel pressure is up to specs.

On security light it should come on for a few seconds with key on and the go off.
Does it do that?


Also go threw the relearn on security.
Try key on ten minutes until security light out and the off and on two more times.
Then off and then try to start it.

If fuel pressure good and relearn run and still no start check for injector pulse.

Let us know fuel pressure and how it goes.

As MT says, the fuel pressure is suspect and needs to be checked. I'm a firm believer in "if it ran good before you did some work and it didn't run after" then you need to go back and look at what you did.

The SEC light not coming on with the key in the run position is an issue for sure.

In the UNDERHOOD fuse box check and or replace the "LIGHTING" fuse #8 50a for 12v "at all times".

In the I/P fuse box check the "SECURITY" fuse #21 10a for 12v at all times (regardless of key position).

In the I/P fuse box check the "GAUGES" fuse #4 10a for 12v with the key in the "RUN" and "START" positions.

The EVO/PASSLOCK module codes can only be accessed by a high end scan tool.

Wires: Black is ground
Orange is power supply to HVAC, Brake, Cruise & 4WD in RUN.
Yellow is power to CRANK fuse in START position.