95 Escort Turn Signals and Hazard Switch not working????

Guys I checked both fuses (hazard and meter) and they are both good. When I flip the turn signal level you can hear the flasher clicking but no turn signal light in dash nor outside. :confused: When I push the hazard switch with the turn signal switch flipped it changes the speed of the sound of the flasher a bit when in vs. out. Any suggestions? It hasn't been a year since I replaced the multi-function switch so I hope its something simple. Ideas/suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys. :wink:

Could a plug have disconnected at the switch :confused:

Will check but I don't see how it could could it unless you physically hit it or something? :confused:

Might be a good idea to check the bulbs. I've heard that the signals on some cars will not flash if there's a burned out bulb and a burned out bulb would affect both the turn signal and the e-flasher.

Will do. Thanks for the suggestion. :smile:

Anybody know where to get a multifunction switch other than dealer?

If the clicking which you hear is the usual, fairly loud, solid-sounding clicking (the relays within the flasher unit) then there's no need to replace the multi-function switch, because that won't be the problem, because the switch is clearly activating those relays. Problem is likely that those relays aren't passing current, and that will be for one of two reasons: either a bad connector at flasher unit (corroded contact or melted plastic), or an open-circuit PCB track within the flasher unit.

The most likely suspect would be connector C296, which plugs into the flasher unit - I think you might find the connector for the black/red wire, which feeds 12V in from the Hazard fuse, is corroded or the surrounding plastic might be melted. If it isn't that then look closely at the connector contacts for the dark green/black and dark green/white wires, which feed 12V out to the indicator lamps, again looking for corrosion or signs of overheating.

If the connector contacts are clean and undamaged then you'll be able to identify the fault by taking some voltage readings - leave the connector plugged into the flasher unit and probe into the back of the connector. Voltages should be:
Pin 8, black/red wire: 12V at all times
Pin 7, dark green/red wire: 12V only when turn signal switch is in Left position
Pin 3, dark green/yellow wire: 12V only when turn signal switch is in Right position
Pin 1, black wire: 0V at all times, and should have continuity to ground when tested on the resistance range
Pin 6, dark green/black wire: 0V except when Left turn signal is selected, at which time it should alternate between 0V and 12V at the same rate at which the flasher unit clicks
Pin 4, dark green/white: 0V except when Right turn signal is selected, at which time it should alternate between 0V and 12V at the same rate at which the flasher unit clicks
Pin 2, brown wire: 0V when the Hazard switch is 'On', and should have continuity to ground at that time, when tested on the resistance range
These diagrams are for the '95:

'95 Turn signals - wiring diagram 1 (http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x64/Selectron/Escort/95-all-turn-hazard-01.png)
'95 Turn signals - wiring diagram 2 (http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x64/Selectron/Escort/95-all-turn-hazard-02.png)

'95 Flasher unit - location diagram 1 (http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x64/Selectron/Escort/95-all-flasher-location-01.png)
'95 Flasher unit - location diagram 2 (http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x64/Selectron/Escort/95-all-flasher-location-02.png)

If the clicking which you hear is the usual, fairly loud, solid-sounding clicking (the relays within the flasher unit) then there's no need to replace the multi-function switch, because that won't be the problem, because the switch is clearly activating those relays. Problem is likely that those relays aren't passing current, and that will be for one of two reasons: either a bad connector at flasher unit (corroded contact or melted plastic), or an open-circuit PCB track within the flasher unit.

The most likely suspect would be connector C296, which plugs into the flasher unit - I think you might find the connector for the black/red wire, which feeds 12V in from the Hazard fuse, is corroded or the surrounding plastic might be melted. If it isn't that then look closely at the connector contacts for the dark green/black and dark green/white wires, which feed 12V out to the indicator lamps, again looking for corrosion or signs of overheating.

If the connector contacts are clean and undamaged then you'll be able to identify the fault by taking some voltage readings - leave the connector plugged into the flasher unit and probe into the back of the connector. Voltages should be:
Pin 8, black/red wire: 12V at all times
Pin 7, dark green/red wire: 12V only when turn signal switch is in Left position
Pin 3, dark green/yellow wire: 12V only when turn signal switch is in Right position
Pin 1, black wire: 0V at all times, and should have continuity to ground when tested on the resistance range
Pin 6, dark green/black wire: 0V except when Left turn signal is selected, at which time it should alternate between 0V and 12V at the same rate at which the flasher unit clicks
Pin 4, dark green/white: 0V except when Right turn signal is selected, at which time it should alternate between 0V and 12V at the same rate at which the flasher unit clicks
Pin 2, brown wire: 0V when the Hazard switch is 'On', and should have continuity to ground at that time, when tested on the resistance range
These diagrams are for the '95:

'95 Turn signals - wiring diagram 1 (http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x64/Selectron/Escort/95-all-turn-hazard-01.png)
'95 Turn signals - wiring diagram 2 (http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x64/Selectron/Escort/95-all-turn-hazard-02.png)

'95 Flasher unit - location diagram 1 (http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x64/Selectron/Escort/95-all-flasher-location-01.png)
'95 Flasher unit - location diagram 2 (http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x64/Selectron/Escort/95-all-flasher-location-02.png)

Wow Selectron! You are da man! Thanks so much for the roadmap and stopping me from ordering a multifunction switch that I am finding costs over $300. Will chase the problem as you laid out and will report back. Thanks again! :wink:

Ditto on Selectron's info above. It seems the mutifunction switch is working.
It won't be the bulbs either. It is unlikely that all your turn signal bulbas AND the dash bulbs all stopped working at the same time.
My money is on a relay. Trace the circuit from the switch and see where it goes dead.

I always pick up the multifunction switches at a salvage yard when I need them. I just bought one the other day for my '88 Escort. It might not last as long as a new one, but doesn't cost as much either.

I always pick up the multifunction switches at a salvage yard when I need them. I just bought one the other day for my '88 Escort. It might not last as long as a new one, but doesn't cost as much either.

On the other hand it could last as long as a new one. I stay away from the dealer!

Ditto on Selectron's info above. It seems the mutifunction switch is working.
It won't be the bulbs either. It is unlikely that all your turn signal bulbas AND the dash bulbs all stopped working at the same time.
My money is on a relay. Trace the circuit from the switch and see where it goes dead.

I hate to expose my ignorance but I have forgotten how to operate my multimeter in such a scenerio. :banghead: Could you provide a down and dirty on what settings to put it on to chase the power? Thanks. :biggrin:

I hate to expose my ignorance but I have forgotten how to operate my multimeter in such a scenerio. :banghead: Could you provide a down and dirty on what settings to put it on to chase the power? Thanks. :biggrin:


BUMP... anybody???:crying:

Probably you would be measuring voltage, not current or resistance. So set it to measure DC volts (not AC volts), and at least 12 volts. Then connect the black lead to a ground point - usually any bare metal part of the body of the car. With the other lead of the multimeter you put on any bare wire, and trace the voltage along.

Wow Selectron! You are da man! Thanks so much for the roadmap and stopping me from ordering a multifunction switch that I am finding costs over $300. Will chase the problem as you laid out and will report back. Thanks again! :wink:

Found the problem. For some strange reason the connector that goes into the relay under the dash had worked its way out a bit. Pushed it back in and walla! Turnsignals. Thanks :iceslolan