Hey I have had this problem for about a month and have had trouble finding the answer. I have 94 Camry, LE, and 2.2L. It has 240K miles on it. It started all of a sudden. I went out one day and the car just would not start for the life of me. I had to play with it for like 10 minutes and then finally it started. I started driving and was going ok. I got to about 65mph and then felt like my transmission gave out on me but it did not it just would not accelerate anymore. If I push the gas it bogs the engine down. If I baby it will accelerate to about 70mph and then stay around there. It painful to take off in Drive, but if I put it in 1st, and switch up slowly I can get up to speed, it just crawls. The problem is intermittent and sometimes I will be driving and all of a sudden it goes away and I will zip off and drives great no issues. Other times I will be driving and I feel the same bump as if the Transmission is giving out and then it starts it. The engine light comes on when it does happen but I cannot pull a code for it. When it's acting up I know BC car will not want to stay started, I have to baby it to keep it started till. It's a problem that keeps coming and going, it seems like I can go for about 45mins and then it will go away on its own.

What I have done, I have done a tune up, replaced and check Distributor, Wires, and Cap. Replaced Fuel Filter, ran code scanner, the only code I will get is code 71 but I have been getting that since I got the vehicle. Code 71 is EGR I have replaced the Valve/Cap but not the EGR. I took it to a mechanic which had it for a week. He was able to reduplicate the issue one time, and then for four days the car drove fine, nothing. I also asked he could the EGR be messing up and causing it bc of the ongoing code, he told me no. My uncle told me he has a Tacoma that did the similar thing and it was the Neutral Safety Switch. This is expensive so I'm hesitating, it's like $300 and I'm a college student. Any help would be appreciate it, I have been scouring Google for weeks now. Thank You for your time.

"I went out one day and the car just would not start for the life of me. I had to play with it for like 10 minutes and then finally it started."

What was happening when the car wouldn't start? Did the starter turn over the engine and it just wouldn't catch and run on it's own, or did the starter not turn the engine over? If the starter didn't turn over the engine, did you hear any clicks? What did you do to actually get it started that day?

Mike

Assuming it wouldn't start because of running badly and not a starter problem:

When it is behaving strangely, pop the hood (in garage or at night) and see if you can find a leak in the ignition system by spotting or hearing a spark from somewhere to ground - should be visible and sound like snapping.

When behaving strangely, have someone keep it running and pull the plug wires one by one and see if one of the changes has no effect. Pulling the plug wires one at a time should cause the idle to go to hell. The plug wire that has no effect when pulled signals the weak cylinder. You can then isolate the problem to that weak cylinder. Could still be either fuel or ignition. Check for spark in the wire that is attached to the weak cylinder spark plug. If no spark, then ignition. If there is a strong spark with a snap sound, it is a fuel problem. Probably the injector or injector trigger circuit.

If not isolated to a specific cylinder,
check the fuel pressure and flow volume.
Check the lines leading from the tank to the fuel rail for kinks or sharp bends.
Check (replace) the engine coolant temperature sensor.
Check (replace) the ignition coil and rotor.

If it is one specific cylinder that is causing the problem (pulling the plug wire has no effect on running)
Double check the ignition connections for that cylinder.
Listen to the fuel injector for that cylinder to make sure it is clicking at idle (stethoscope).
Check injector for fuel pattern and spray if clicking. If not clicking check connection, switch injectors and see if the problem switches cylinders with the suspect injector. Use new fuel-wet o-rings on the injectors each time. Don't install the injectors crooked.

Have you had any work done on the engine recently that would shed light on the possible source of the problem?

If I were a betting man, I would bet on the problem being caused by a bad ignition coil.

It just will keep starting, it actually act like its out of gas, it will start and then die right away, I have to baby the accelerate to catch it to rpm, once it runs for about 2/3 mins it will idle on its own.

Something I messed with while it was running fine, is I tested Overdrive disable on my AT, if I turn it off it will switch to 3rd. However when its acting up OD stays enabled no matter what, and transmission only goes into 3 gears.

TY Mike sorry for not being so clear.

Brian going to try what u said but I know its not spark issue bc the engine idles fine, even when its acting up, it just is bogged down, if I put it in neutral i can push gas it will rev up to 3rpm real quick, i Low it will zip off. Some of the other things I have not tested going to try next day or two and will report back, ty for your help.

It can still be the ignition.

The OD thing points to the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.

Finally broke down and took it to the Dealership to have a diag done, they told me it could be the EGR VSV, or EGR valve. Wed is my first time off in a long time so I plan on doing what some of the advice given to me, just had not had time to do so, TY YOU FOR ALL YOUR HELP. If you think the above two are mistaken let me know before Wed if possible.

Also its getting poor gas milage, like 20mpg or less. Also it starts up just fine it just wont idle, if i push the gas a little and start it it will force it to stay on. I pulled the plugs the other day when it was acting up, and it was warm, so it stayed idle. When I pulled each one it started having trouble idleing, you can tell. Fuel Pressure was checked today by Toyota and said it checks out ok when its acting up bc he thought the same thing. Also I tested it when cold and after I get it to idle, which takes like two mins, the spark is strong, zapped me the other day and dam it hurt. Plugs were replaced with brand new ones too make sure. Any more help Brian let me know thank you again...

My guess will be the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve or the Engine Coolant Temperature (EGT) sensor. Both of these are prone to causing the hard starting and idling problems you describe.

Another remote possibility is the cap and rotor terminals are heavily oxidized and worn out. Also, pull the plugs to make sure they aren't fouled with oil or gas and that the gap is correct. If your car idles very roughly, then doing these will smooth it out alot. Plus, test the plug wires for proper resistance and for wear spots where a spark might jump through to ground...not really the culprit here but since you have them out, might as well.

Finally, you could try an engine and fuel treatment such as Sea Foam to dissolve any carbon deposits and gum in the engine and intake. For Sea Foam, you pour it into the oil, fuel tank, and into the intake (see sticky at the top of this forum for complete instructions)...treating the entire engine. Try to time treatment a few hundred miles before your next oil change.

Hope this helps!