http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/007S.jpg

I started whittling on my Hiro Testa Rossa body a couple of weeks ago and began enjoying myself so much I couldn't stop. The plan is to build this one mostly stock but open the doors and add a scale hinge or two to the rear deck. If I get motivated I'll scratch build a wooden steering wheel to prove to myself it wasn't a lucky fluke. I found some really poor quality photo's of car #22 on the internet that must have been taken by a modeler because the shots are just what I need (woo-hoo!). I know it goes without saying but I encourage any and all suggestions, criticisms and additions as long as they are positive and friendly. Yes, Hiro's are difficult, yes they are expensive, yes they often have fit problems. This is a "no-whining zone" starting now.:iceslolan

http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt003.jpg

Here is where I am so far on the body. I'm currently trial fitting the doors which were fabricated from .01" brass sheet. The original body was solid resin over a 1/4 inch thick and, because the interior is so visible I had to do something. So I carved everything out to give it a "empty beer can" look. That is so important to this car (and the Barchetta) that I felt it was worth the extra effort. The interior is now much roomier too - I hope my drivers appreciate that extra elbow room.:lol:

http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt006.jpg

I also began test fitting the engine and drivetrain. It's just held together with rubber cement like everything else until I'm satisfied everything will assemble smoothly. I have to say the castings and body in this kit are quite smooth and only need a little cleanup. I have discovered what appears to be a major fit issue with the front engine mounts. When I work out a solution I'll add it to the WIP.

Good luck with this one, especially with the surgury it's about to undergo. I'll be watching for sure.

Edit: As I was typing the above you'd already posted your first progress pictures. Looks great so far!

I think you'll get quite a few of us watching this one. Who doesn't love a '58 Testa Rossa? Best of luck.

Looks like it's gonna be another awesome replica, my friend!!! I will follow this one.

This looks to be a promising work. I will follow it with great interest. You are right, MFH is expensive and complicated, but...

Your first step are very good focused. Follow this line and result will be great.

BorJacho

Well thanks to everyone for the show of support. Sometimes I spread myself a bit thin with projects and your interest helps to keep me focused.

I spent some time with the engine mounts and confirmed the front mounts were way off. Everything else fits so well I'm surprised this part was so outta whack:screwy:? Here's how I fixed it:

http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt015.jpg
The mounting points in space needed to be 2.5 mm higher and 5mm further apart so I just sliced a section out of the part and glued it back together with JBWeld and a straight pin (45 degree angle worked perfect to make two corrections with only one cut). Everything fits great now, even the complicated exhaust through the fender openings. (Notice the exhaust manifolds are now on the correct sides. I had them installed backwards in my earlier post.:icon16:)

I'd be interested to hear from anyone else that has built this model or can confirm the error in this part from an unbuilt kit they have. It would be nice to know if this is a design problem or perhaps I just got the wrong parts in my kit. Hiro did several variations of the Testa Rossa so anything is possible.

http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt010.jpg
Here I have the engine and some other components test fit in the engine compartment. The single Weber carb is installed to check for hood clearance issues. The white stuff I used to fill the windshield trench and reshape the gutter corners is white Milliput epoxy putty. This is the fine stuff, they also make a grey colored putty that is stronger but much harder to carve and sand in my opinion.


http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt017.jpg
I opened up the side vents so all that hot air can escape! Also notice how I've ground out even more resin with my ball mill bit. The body is definately getting lighter! I use a pentel marker to highlight panel edges so I can easily see how thin they are through the inevitable cloud of resin dust while grinding. A simple wipe with alcohol removes it later.



http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt007.jpg
Ferrari continued to develop the Testa Rossa for several years, drastically improving the breed with each successive generation. Here's a side by side comparison between the first and final iteration. Notice how the later cars pontoons were extended to conical shapes. I read somewhere that the Ferrari people discovered through windtunnel testing they could reduce induced wavefront friction best with this shape when transitioning to hypersonic speeds.

http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt009.jpg
Heres another view of how the crazy exhaust fits. I'm pleasantly surprised how well everything fits together here. I expected a lot of bending and filing but it all fits pretty well..

More later.

Great job! I love your detail! It will be my next project too . I have the 1:12 model by MG Plus Models but this one is less detailled than the MFH model. I have to replace the resin aft part by brass tubing so I can install the tank and spare wheel. I only got to find some good pictures/drawings/cutaway from the tubular chassis of the real car.

keep those pics coming!

Ton

Hi Tony,
Great to hear your putting together a 1/12 Testa Rossa project to follow up your awesome Autograph F40. By coincidence, a friend and I were just discussing the MG Testarossa kit. He mentioned he was planning to purchase the Autograph 250 GTO engine for it because it and the TR engine are almost identical. THAT would be an incredible project and you already know a lot about Uli's way: (soldering watch screws to photo-etch and that kind of thing).

Anyone that hasn't seen Autograph models should check it out. Here's a link to their site:
http://www.autographmodel.com/Englisch/Englisch.htm (http://www.autographmodel.com/Englisch/Englisch.htm)

Very interesting project. Fantastic looking car and great wip.

Very interesting project. Fantastic looking car and great wip.

Yup, I'll second that motion :)

Hi Tony,
He mentioned he was planning to purchase the Autograph 250 GTO engine for it because it and the TR engine are almost identical. THAT would be an incredible project and you already know a lot about Uli's way: (soldering watch screws to photo-etch and that kind of thing).


That would be a great project indeed. The MG model engine is quite good but Uli´s is in a higher league!

Well since no one commented on how hilarious my Speed Racer Mach 5 comparison was I guess none of you were 6 year old gear heads in 1970. I thought the resemblence between the two cars was more than coincidence at any rate.

I got to working on the rear deck hinge today.
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/027S.jpg
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt023.jpg
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt019.jpg
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt025.jpg
I got verything lined up and used 5 minute epoxy to set everything in place. Once I feel confident it will open properly I'll set it with JBWeld and level the brass with the resin body using Milliput grey for strength.

Great solution for the hinges! I will definately "steal" it from you :)

Inspireing work!!!

My friend, you are inspiring me to break out one of my bad boy racers, albiet from the other side of the pond...
I got a couple of GT40s, a Cobra Daytona and 2 Grand Sports just itchin to be on the bench... But then again, there was a Model T out there kickin Ferraris in the '50s. I gotta find that article...

Nice work on a cool car so far. It looks like you know what you're doing:-)

Nice Build.....i started my own build only hours before I saw yours posted on here....I'm planning on putting my own WIP on here and can only hope others will give constructive criticism aslo.

Nice Build.....i started my own build only hours before I saw yours posted on here....I'm planning on putting my own WIP on here and can only hope others will give constructive criticism aslo.


Welcome to the board! We always enjoy seeing WIPs. Everyone has their own ideas and it helps each of us learn more about building.

Mark

A Model Factory Hiro TR ? Cool ! I have been looking for one for quite some time, but I got the Hasegawa kit and used Hiro Borrani wire wheels on it.

Wow, I can't believe how much enthusiasm there is for Testa Rossa's on this forum. I'm sure together we can break new ground and discover some new things about this car.

Here's a quick update on my project. I'm still working on the body, tweaking doors etc. I started playing around with the Milliput again, this time trying to make a convincing seat. Of course the colors are backward. I just wanted to see if I could make something a bit more convincing than the metal pieces supplied. I'm satisfied with the result considering it's only my first attempt. I found some white coated wire at Radio Shack that will pass for upholstery piping.
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt027.jpg
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt028.jpg

Great job on adding the metal doors ! I like it !

Well on your way to another best in show, my friend!

Great progress Mike! I would go for the milliput also! It is much more texture like dan the metal. Maybe you can push a hard brush in the MP when it is hardening: it "opens " the surface a bit and gives it a texture like look

Yup, I'll second that motion :)

seriously... it looks sick. Make sure you post the finished product. looking forward to it.

Quick update on my project. I've been sweating the door hinges because they are so visible on this car. Warning: there are at least two totally different ways Ferrari did the TR door hinges so don't assume anything. This design is for #0732 and thats about all I know.

So at some point one must quite thinking and start cutting. I guess the nice thing about scratch work is the unlimited supply of new parts available....

Here's a close-up of LucyBelle's right door hinge (note the lightening holes)...
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/079S.jpg

And this is what I came up with....
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt033.jpg
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt030.jpg
Grinding the resin down to expose the white metal body side reveals a nice flat structure to mount the hinge to on the Hiro kit. This hinge wasn't too hard to fabricate and was pretty easy to get to work because the door swings away from the body. The only trick is to make the panel sweep away from the body perpendicular at the point where the panel meets the car so nothing rubs. With all that, I think I'll try making this one a bit smaller now that I have the articulation down. Then I can start working on the door skeleton and latching mechanism. Drilling all those lightening holes was a pain.

Looks good Mike! But can´t you make a framework on the door and solder the hinge on it (like in real life). The frame is strong enough to hold the hinge and you can make a small invisible connection. Just my thoughts :)

Yea, I think I'll try that for "revision A". This first hinge was glued to the body first, then the door. But if I solder the hinge to the door frame (like the real car) I should still have sufficient wiggle room to align the hinge to the body while the door is held in place. (Damn man, your tough! :cwm27::iceslolan)

Yea, I think I'll try that for "revision A". This first hinge was glued to the body first, then the door. But if I solder the hinge to the door frame (like the real car) I should still have sufficient wiggle room to align the hinge to the body while the door is held in place. (Damn man, your tough! :cwm27::iceslolan)

And if you first make the frame, than the hinge, align the frame in the body ( I think enough space to wiggle than) and than as the last step glue/solder the door on the frame? Or is this even tougher :grinyes::grinyes:

Another quick update on the Hiro Testa Rossa. Here's Door Hinge 2.0:
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt037.jpg
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt039.jpg
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt042.jpg
The one on the right is the latest in ear lobe fashion accessories. Seriously, the door hinges are now exactly to scale and only required 10 times as much work to assemble as version 1.0. After the interior is painted in semi-black I doubt anyone will notice the difference. Live and learn I guess.

At this stage in the build theres a lot of cutting shaping filing and not much color. I needed a quick color fix so I decided to do the fuel tank as a stand alone distraction.
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt044.jpg
The strips of rivets are stock photo-etch from the kit and had a better effect than I thought they would. The white metal was polished and filed flat of all detail except one small row of rivets in the center. Everything else was modified or scratched. I still haven't decided whether I like the rusty finish on the tank straps yet so they aren't glued.

Door hinges look great!
Brass is a wonderful medium to work with, isn't it?

Thanks Alex. I'm still getting the hang of brass but I like the way it bends and files away without dulling or clogging my tools. I'm still in fear of solder and the distorting effects of heat on such tiny parts. (Thats why the door frame was pieced together with epoxy.) The Testa Rossa's doors are so simple I figured it would be a good candidate for my first all-brass attempt. Now it seems I'm thinking of doing opening doors on every car kit I own!:runaround:Make it stop...

Hey Mike, you did a great job on the door hinges and the frame! It is looking awesome! Soldering is a matter of experience but a very nice job. I am using a soldering station where you can vary the temperature.

Thanks Alex. I'm still getting the hang of brass but I like the way it bends and files away without dulling or clogging my tools. I'm still in fear of solder and the distorting effects of heat on such tiny parts. (Thats why the door frame was pieced together with epoxy.) The Testa Rossa's doors are so simple I figured it would be a good candidate for my first all-brass attempt. Now it seems I'm thinking of doing opening doors on every car kit I own!:runaround:Make it stop...

I know! You need to get one of those irons that solders by electric impulse. It heats brass in one spot only, and let's you solder easily in multiple areas. I don't have one and I don't remember what they are called....Somebody should chime in on this....

soldering station?

You guys remember that amazing brass frame-up BMWMECH1 was doing on a 1/8 Pocher F-40? After telling him I was a fan I asked him if he would share his process for keeping everything so tight and undisturbed despite joint after joint. Here's what he said:

"Thanks CrateCruncher, my "process" is not top secret...lol, I use an Amercian Beauty resistance soldering rig, which if you don't know much about it, uses the resistance across the joint being soldered to create heat at the point of contact. It heats up very quickly and the heat is very localized to only the joint area, which means you can solder a piece right next to a previously soldered piece and not run the risk of de-soldering the first joint. It works kind of like arc welding, only with solder. That's how I can maintain alignment without affecting adjacent areas." BM1

Here's the American Beauty website: http://www.americanbeautytools.com/site/index.php?req=home (http://www.americanbeautytools.com/site/index.php?req=home)

Here's a video using one on a 1/43 model: http://www.americanbeautytools.com/site/index.php?req=home&sub=videos&vid=9&cat=hobby&vq=l (http://www.americanbeautytools.com/site/index.php?req=home&sub=videos&vid=9&cat=hobby&vq=l)

I found a published price of $532 for the 250w Super Chief!

soldering station?

http://www.accutron214.com/machineshop/Images/SolderStation.jpg

this one:loser:

After seeing BMWmech awesome work I also considered buying one, but for the occasional work like I do ( a bit soldering tubing and doors etc) a soldering station works fine for me.

...well...
the one i used to use at the model workshop at university had a two pronged tweezer like head.

500+ quid for a soldering iron is a bit steep!

MFH has some good stuff out there. Although the 250 Testa Rossa is OOP, it still is a good build, even with the aftermarket engine from Historic Racing Miniatures

I accomplished something new so I guess it's a good time for an update. I mentioned earlier my soldering skills could use some work.. What better way to practice than by fabricating a space truss for the interior. The Hiro part is grossly out of scale AND far worse to me, it doesn't even look like a truss. Muuuuuust improoooooove paaaaaaaaaaart......................
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt047.jpg
First I layed out the shape based on the dimensions I knew and the shapes in the photos. Then I carefully cut and filed my truss members pinning them down over the plan. I used the tin and reflow method to reduce the heat transfer into the paper plan.

Here's the right side installed compared with the Hiro part on the left side.
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt049.jpg
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt052.jpg
There's a serious improvement I think. And it's functional too. This model already weighs nearly 3 pounds. It's starting to sag in the middle! I enjoyed this work so much I plan to do one for the engine compartment too.

That is an improvement!

That looks great. Your weight reduction techniques would make Enzo smile

That's is great!

First I layed out the shape based on the dimensions I knew and the shapes in the photos. Then I carefully cut and filed my truss members pinning them down over the plan. I used the tin and reflow method to reduce the heat transfer into the paper plan.



Did you solder directly on the paper plan witch is in the wooden board?
I also have to solder some wing brackets for my Porsche 917/10.
So I was wondering witch techniques u used.

Maurits

Maurits

Long time no see ....tomorrow in Schoonhoven :iceslolan

Ton (F40)

Did you solder directly on the paper plan witch is in the wooden board?
I also have to solder some wing brackets for my Porsche 917/10.
So I was wondering witch techniques u used.

Maurits

The paper is a piece of index card (extra thick paper). I put 2 layers of common cellophane tape over the sketch and placed the assembly on a 3 cm chunk of soft balsa so the pins would push in easily. It worked great with only some slight brown discoloration on the sketch. I was using 60Sn/40Pb so temps never got higher than 186C. If you're using lead-free you may have local burning. Let me know how it works for you.

The mailman brought me a Derrington Wheel kit from Norm Veber (aka Replicas and Miniatures of Maryland). My friend Chris showed me one he built the other day and I was really impressed with the smallness of the rim. Here's how it went:
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt057.jpg
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt059.jpg
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt066.jpg
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt067.jpg
The photoetch rim is nickel-silver and polishes up nicely. The wooden rims are cherry and while a bit more crumbly than boxwood they do have a nice color. A first coat of poly-u was applied before assembling the wheel, mainly for strength. This wheel has about 12 brass rivets (.012 brass rod) clipped off close with fingernail clippers. The rim was not sanded at all until it was completely assembled. Then I started shaping with 600, then 1500. Another coat of poly-u was just applied in the last photo. I'll do another quick sand and polish with 2000, then 12000 and be done. Norms wheel took about 4 hours. My scratch wheel took 8 hours just to sand the wood rims down to size!

Amazing Mike! I ruined one set already but I have a lot of veneer. But I think the tric is the poly-u. I assume it is a kind polyester clear coat?

Here in the US we have water-based polyurethane and oil-based polyurethane made for wood and sold under the brand Minwax. I don't know the Dutch equivalent but it should be available in small tins at your home center. I prefer the oil-based because it takes a while to dry and is less brittle. The retarded drying time allows it to absorb deeply into the wood before it dries.

Are you putting that on the Testa Rossa ?

Here in the US we have water-based polyurethane and oil-based polyurethane made for wood and sold under the brand Minwax. I don't know the Dutch equivalent but it should be available in small tins at your home center. I prefer the oil-based because it takes a while to dry and is less brittle. The retarded drying time allows it to absorb deeply into the wood before it dries.


Thanks Mike! I already found an equivalent of Minwax :)

Are you putting that on the Testa Rossa ?Yes, unless I find something better.:naughty:

Renaissance makes a really really great Nardi Steering Wheel. I used one on my Hasegawa TR, and put an EJan horn button in it.

250, you seem nice but no one on this forum has seen a single photo of your work thus far. At some point you are going to have to show us what you've done or other builders won't take you seriously. Sorry, but pictures tell the stories. Some background would help too. Your age, how long you've been building, car interests, would also help. I'm 45 and have been a car and motorcycle nut since I was 8.

And thanks for the tip on the Nardi's from Rennaisance, Ididn't know they offered that. Checked their website just now. They look good. Got a PICTURE?!!!!!!:evillol:

I'm 25, i have been into cars since day one, and I saw a 250 TR crash at the Monterey historic car races not too long ago. I can't post pictures of my TR because I don't know what size the pictures have to be.

Check this out...

http://www.autoblog.com/2009/08/19/video-multi-million-dollar-ferrari-250-tr-tags-wall-at-laguna-s/

I'm 25, i have been into cars since day one, and I saw a 250 TR crash at the Monterey historic car races not too long ago. I can't post pictures of my TR because I don't know what size the pictures have to be.

800 by 600 pixels :wink:

I am still unable to post pictures of my Hasegawa TR.

I am still unable to post pictures of my Hasegawa TR.

You have to host your picture on a photo hosting site and than link from here to your posts.

I am still unable to post pictures of my Hasegawa TR.

Did you actually click on the link that someone helpfully put in your 1958 250TR thread?? If you did, you would find quite detailed help on what to do and how to do it...

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=6025132&postcount=6

I made some more progress on the Testa Rossa yesterday. Most of the brass fabrication is finished now. All I need to do is make the seats, paint everything, and put it together all over again.
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt072.jpg
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt069.jpg
I also put the wheels together and leveled the body out for final primering. Most of the cutting and bending is done so things should start progressing a bit faster now.

Very, very nice and impressive work :thumbsup:
The doors look great!

(I really must learn to solder one day..... :) )

Magnificent job Mike! It looks splendid. I like to recommend neodymium magnets for the doors and trunk lids. Very small and very powerful. You have

rectangles

http://www.supermagnete.nl/photos/large/0912.jpg


spheres

http://www.supermagnete.nl/photos/large/0307.jpg

Discs

http://www.supermagnete.nl/photos/large/2662.jpg

And they are not bigger than a few millimeters. I used them for my F40 which doors did not close properly.

Everything looks great, and I really love the brass work. Im going to have to say you've now pulled far in to the lead. Like what happened to Tony I've hit a dead spot and trying to work through it.

Like what happened to Tony I've hit a dead spot and trying to work through it.

Well I am currently working on the engine and after finishing this I will continue with the brass work...by that time all my coppersmithing tools are in :)

I know all about dead spots guys. I have boxes full of "dead spots". Fact is, the only way I seem to be able to get a project done is to publish a WIP of it as I go!

I got my seats fab'd up yesterday. I wanted them to be larger and more 3-dimensional than the kit parts. Here's how I did it:
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt081.jpg
I began by making 2-d templates using the outline of the kit parts as a guide. Notice how much bigger the new seat backs are.

http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt083.jpg
Next I traced the templates onto some grid lines based on the new width of the seat bottoms. After I replaced the trusses I had too much room and needed to widen them as well. The vertical piping has to be the width of the seat bottoms or it looks wrong. Next I protected the plan with cellophane tape and started molding. The parts were simply peeled off the plan after curing.

http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt077.jpg
Next the backs of the seats were carved slightly so they would fit in place. Milliput is great stuff. The Brit's tried to keep it a secret but now the word is out...:p

Milliput White is a fantastic product indeed.
Being able to use water to work it with and to get a smooth surface AND keep hands clean at the same time is fantastic.
One thing though, I'm not 100% on what the shrinkage on it is like so I've been sparing with it when I use it to correct body shapes.

Milliput is great stuff an you know how to handle it! Great result! Are you going to paint the MP or is it covered with fabric/leather?

Milliput White is a fantastic product indeed.
Being able to use water to work it with and to get a smooth surface AND keep hands clean at the same time is fantastic.
One thing though, I'm not 100% on what the shrinkage on it is like so I've been sparing with it when I use it to correct body shapes.

I haven't tried working it with the aid of water yet. I guess I should have read the instructions:uhoh:. It's fairly sticky up to about 30 minutes after mixing. I used it as bondo on the body and I don't believe it shrinks at all. Earlier pictures reveal areas where I used it. It sands at about the same rate as the resin. I refuse to use Squadron putty on a model ever again. That garbage slowly shrinks for weeks!

Milliput is great stuff an you know how to handle it! Great result! Are you going to paint the MP or is it covered with fabric/leather?

Ton, I hadn't thought about leather. That might look cool in 1/12? I'm just going to paint them flat red and apply thin white insulated wire in the grooves. (Update your thread already!)

Milliput is great stuff. The Brit's tried to keep it a secret but now the word is out...:p

I had to inwardly chuckle at that. I started using Milliput many many years ago for figure sculpting and modifications and, I must say, it seemed pretty good stuff....until I came across the US products of Magic Sculpt and Apoxie Sculpt. I won't use Milliput now.
The US products have a MUCH better shelf life, they are finer in texture, they carve better and don't flake like Milliput. They don't 'sweat' under heat like Milliput does. They mix easier. They have all the good qualities of Milliput, and none of the bad ones. They're cheaper too!
The Americans kept them a secret for a while but the secret got out a few years back...:tongue:

I had to inwardly chuckle at that. I started using Milliput many many years ago for figure sculpting and modifications and, I must say, it seemed pretty good stuff....until I came across the US products of Magic Sculpt and Apoxie Sculpt. I won't use Milliput now.
The US products have a MUCH better shelf life, they are finer in texture, they carve better and don't flake like Milliput. They don't 'sweat' under heat like Milliput does. They mix easier. They have all the good qualities of Milliput, and none of the bad ones. They're cheaper too!
The Americans kept them a secret for a while but the secret got out a few years back...:tongue:

Hmmm, now that you mention it I have noticed one stick in each of my boxes is beginning to turn a sickly brown color. I also noticed you have to be careful not to carve too aggressively on the white stuff or it will flake. Thanks for the info Cheesey. I'm a total beginner at this sculpting thing.

You're welcome, CrateCruncher. It was remiss of me to omit mention of your model in my previous post - had I not been so enthralled with your building of the Testa Rossa I would have not seen the comments about Milliput! Thank you for inspiring me with your Ferrari.

I had to inwardly chuckle at that. I started using Milliput many many years ago for figure sculpting and modifications and, I must say, it seemed pretty good stuff....until I came across the US products of Magic Sculpt and Apoxie Sculpt. I won't use Milliput now.
The US products have a MUCH better shelf life, they are finer in texture, they carve better and don't flake like Milliput. They don't 'sweat' under heat like Milliput does. They mix easier. They have all the good qualities of Milliput, and none of the bad ones. They're cheaper too!
The Americans kept them a secret for a while but the secret got out a few years back...:tongue:

Nice job on the seats and model so far.

I tried a few types of modeling clay, but not the one you mentioned. With Milliput the silver seems to work best for me as it does not peel as bad. I have done many masters using this stuff and styrene. Mixing is a pain plus the sit time is very short.

Tom Tanner/Scale Designs/Ferrari Expo 2010 model/photo contest-Chicago April 2010

Under construction and online in a few months www.ferrariexpochicago.com (http://www.ferrariexpochicago.com)

Ton, I hadn't thought about leather. That might look cool in 1/12? I'm just going to paint them flat red and apply thin white insulated wire in the grooves. (Update your thread already!)The Cabretta leather I use (see my PM) is less than half a mm(metric) and is very smooth and easy to curve around shapes. It can be bought overhere

http://www.modelmotorcars.com/large_pic_lthr.asp?ID=17

You also have adhesive leather look cloth from Hiro

https://www.hiroboy.com/catalog/images/mfhp945.jpg

Very thin piping can be obtained from MSM Creation

http://www.msmcreation.com/images/msma005.jpg

I think I will update my thread on the moment the engine is ready :p

The before mentioned leather product works great - its adhesiveness is alright. I used it on my 250 TR.

The challenge is to find a way to cut around the bends of the seats in way that these won´t be too obvious. Otherwise the leather will stand out and show some edges that are not realistic at all.

Oh...and a sharp knife is recommended as well.


Robert

Hi guys - for what it's worth, my subjective opinion is that 0,48mm diam is much too thick for piping on seats. That scales up to 0,5 inch as a reference point

Hi guys - for what it's worth, my subjective opinion is that 0,48mm diam is much too thick for piping on seats. That scales up to 0,5 inch as a reference point

True, not the best choice...but do you have an decent alternative :wink:

Klutz, I was planning to use .25 mm ignition wire from Detail Master (full scale would be the correct 6mm) but holding it up to the seat it looks tiny. Hence the Radio Shack stuff which is .48mm (and it's $3.00 for 30 meters not $8.00 for 2!).

FWIW, I now refuse to acknowledge any existence of our medievel American system of units. All my posts are now in metric - the system designed for modern civilizations. And yes, it's only a matter of time before the other 300 million people here do it my way....:rofl::rofl::rofl:

And I hope it's easier for you also, cause I sure can't post in Polish, Dutch or Flemish!

And I hope it's easier for you also, cause I sure can't post in Polish, Dutch or Flemish!

Thanks Mike..much appreciated!:licka:

True, not the best choice...but do you have an decent alternative :wink:
It's all very much a question of personal preferecne but 0,3-0,35mm would be my diameter of choice. I would tend to agree with Crate Cruncher above that 0,25mm would "look" too small (even if it is more correct from a scale point of view) in the same way that I feel 0,48mm "looks" too large.

As for alternatives, I used sprue on this 250TR (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=916660) and used my calliper gauge to select sections with the right thickness. I used regular wrapping wire on the rear cover of a Lotus Super 7.

Out of curiosity, I just measured the piping on the RMoM resin seats for the Ferrari 250 California (which I have always thought had very nice molded-in detail) and they are also around 0,3mm.

In this case, subjectivity rules, I guess and there is no real "right or wrong" - the most important thing is that Crate Cruncher is happy with the result and goes with his instincts :thumbsup:

Re: piping on the seats, there is a credible alternative to wire & sprue that you may like to consider - epoxy putty. You've said how much you like Milliput, so why not stretch yourself and explore its capabilities?

Epoxy putties can be easily rolled out to incredibly fine diameters (certainly thinner than is required for 1/24 seat piping) and will offer a couple of advantages over sprue or wire. Firstly, it will be a lot more flexible, and will conform to contours better. Secondly, once it's applied and hardened it can be 'tweaked' with abrasive paper or steel wool to make it a wee bit thinner if required.

I recommend you try it when the ambient temperature is high, because putties get stiffer and less easy to manipulate as the temparature drops. Mix the putty as usual and then take a tiny piece of it and roll it back and forth under your fingertip on a hard smooth surface - a workbench or cutting mat for example. Using the lightest of pressure keep rolling, keep thinning the putty. If he putty sticks to the surface use a VERY light covering of talcum powder to prevent it. Seriously, you'll be amazed how thin you can make the resulting strand. You may not be able to make very long, consistenly thin strands but you should comfortably be able to make them long enough to replicate lengths of piping on your Testa Rossa seats.
There are a couple of options for applying the strands to your seats. You could either take the freshly rolled strand and lay it over the seat, guiding it into position and pressing it down with the tip of a damp (with water) fine paint brush - the fresh putty (aided by the dampness) will stick itself to the seat. Or you could roll the putty and wait a while until it starts to harden, starts to get 'rubbery'. Then stick it to the seat with either a tiny amount of 2-part epoxy glue or a paste made from Millput vigourously mixed with water.

Putty piping isn't going to be particularly robust (so I wouldn't recommend it, for instance, for a piece that's going to be handled repeatedly or put in a silicone rubber mould) but let's face it, once a seat is made, primed, painted and possibly varnished, it will be perfectly strong enough for our purposes.

Even if you choose to use another method for these seats, I urge you to at least play around with rolling your Milliput - it will probably give you great confidence in that stuff's properties.....even if I still prefer Apoxie Sculpt or Magic Sculpt :D

I don't want to hijack your thread but, if you'd like, I could roll some putty and then post a photo or two to show you what's possible. Just let me know.

Jon.

I like that Milliput idea!! I am definitely going to give that a try :thumbsup:

Guys, thanks for taking the time to offer up your ideas. I'm going to experiment with them and figure out what I'm capable of. I may have grown into the idea .48 mm was "about right" when in fact it's really out of scale. About .35 is where I'd like to be.

Just a quick update:
Lucybelle II is now in white (primer anyway). All suspension is epoxied in.
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt087.jpg
Bottom right you can just see my brass anti-roll bar I sub'd for the huge kit part.


I finally got a nice flat red that I like for the heads. Detail work begins:
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt085.jpg
Note the tiny deflecter on carb #1 formed from aluminum sheet - a Lucybelle exclusive. Those tiny little valve cover knobs are white metal castings. Don't sneeze!
More to come. Thanks for watching.

Looks very good...I am happy you did not forget the deflector :) I also thought it was Lucybelle specific...but after reading the TR book of Joel E Finn I now know that it is specific for all the early TR´s. And don´t forget the oil stick on the left side :)

I now have the engine assembled and will begin the plumbing/electrical work next.
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt089.jpg
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt092.jpg
I used a high temperature red paint containing ceramic powder for the engine. It was cured in the oven after spraying for 30 minutes at 120C. I love the dead-flat orange red effect but my camera has a hard time capturing it. The Hiro TR engine is exceeding my expectations in nearly every way. The front engine casting was a bit rough but everything else is wonderfully detailed. (Might these castings be borrowed from the Climax GTO?) I would still give the R&MM engines a higher score because everything is included but this Hiro can be made nearly as nice with some scratch-work and it's already metal! Also, the Hiro intake trumpets are metal so I don't have to constantly worry about breaking them. Pardon my dust. More to come.

That´s a nice looking engine. It´s amazing how much effort you put into this one - even the paint needs to be special. Way to go!

Robert

Looks very very good Mike. The venturies are they Hiro or did you add them yourself?

Thanks guys. The header paint is a special paint but I already had it from a full scale project completed a while back and remembered how orangish and flat it looked after it was cured - like it had been baked in an engine compartment. It took some time figuring out a good primer for it but I'm happy with how it turned out. You don't often get to paint Ferrari engines red so I wanted to really get the look right. I also wanted to be several shades away from the seat color.

The venturi's were made from some .8mm O.D. brass tube I found in the scrapbox. Hiro included some SS tube but its hard to cut and I like the contrast of the brass. I'll use the SS for fuel line ferrules. No waste!

That is superb. I'm going to get a Fotki site in the future.

I've been busily working on the Testa Rossa and now feel like I'm in the home stretch. I can fit all the remaining parts into the small plastic organizer box included with the kit but there are still a number of things to do. Here's where I am:
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt093.jpg
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt096.jpg
The two photo's were taken with and without flash. I find it amazing how much the color white changes under different light. The base coat is Racing White (TS-7). The seats were shot with Flat Red (XF-7) over grey primer for a darkening effect, then rubbed for a leather effect. Anyone that knows the Hiro TR can appreciate how much work has already gone into carving the windshield surround from a huge casting down to a thin stamped metal strip. I'll add .5mm rivets after the windshield is fitted. The wheels were assembled first (thanks Alex), then shot with Tamiya Metal Primer, Flat Aluminum (XF-16), then baked at 100C for 15 minutes for added durability. They turned out great!. Next I need to decal, clear, polish, blacken the body inside, and complete assembly of a million little things. I'm working toward a Saturday deadline so things are really starting to move now. More to follow...........Mike

Stunning job Mike! Wheel job is perfect! I wish I was that far :)

Here's the Reinaissance Nardi I built for my Porsche 356A and the onw for my Ferrari California Spyder. Renaissance makes a really really great Nardi Steering Wheel. I used one on my Hasegawa TR, and put an EJan horn button in it.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y288/Porsnatic/DSC_1315.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y288/Porsnatic/DSC_1329.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y288/Porsnatic/DSC_1615.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y288/Porsnatic/DSC_2558.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y288/Porsnatic/gsl05_00193-1.jpg




--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

250, you seem nice but no one on this forum has seen a single photo of your work thus far. At some point you are going to have to show us what you've done or other builders won't take you seriously. Sorry, but pictures tell the stories. Some background would help too. Your age, how long you've been building, car interests, would also help. I'm 45 and have been a car and motorcycle nut since I was 8.

And thanks for the tip on the Nardi's from Rennaisance, Ididn't know they offered that. Checked their website just now. They look good. Got a PICTURE?!!!!!!

Very nice! Can't wait to see it finished now.
I also noticed something you probably can't change now - only cam covers were painted red, you also have a bit of the red paint on the front engine cover - it was silver. But probably too late now.

Stunning job Mike! Wheel job is perfect! I wish I was that far :)
Thanks Ton. That MG is quite a handful I'm sure. Big scale, high detail projects are a lot of work and take a long time. I don't think that gets mentioned enough. Posting frequent progress updates helps me maintain momentum.

Here's the Reinaissance Nardi I built for my Porsche 356A and the one for my Ferrari California Spyder.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y288/Porsnatic/DSC_1329.jpg



Wow! Thanks for the pic. That looks great. They split the center so you can bend some offset into it and even include a decal for the dark inlay strip. I'm ordering some of these!

Very nice! Can't wait to see it finished now.
I also noticed something you probably can't change now - only cam covers were painted red, you also have a bit of the red paint on the front engine cover - it was silver. But probably too late now.

Thanks. I'm glad you like the progress.

Regarding those forward timing chain covers, engines during this period were all different. Some were painted, some weren't. Most of these cars have been modified, wrecked and restored multiple times making research even more challenging. But rest assured that my bud Mark would never let me make a mistake like that. When I start a new project he often provides me with a wealth of valuable research references. (Thanks Mark!). I'm confident that #0732 had painted chain covers because it's original engine paint survives today(and it looks like poo too!).

Here's how the seats turned out.
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt099.jpg
I finally decided .3mm looked best. I tried rolling Milliput and stretching sprue but couldn't get consistent size in the lengths I needed. I removed the insulation from the wire and then stretched it. You can see strands of before and after in the photo. (The stripped metal wire is beatiful and will make all kinds of great trim details on some future roadcar project).

Edit: I forgot to mention my thanks to Klutz for mentioning the piping diameter as a scale issue in the first place. Looking back on it now the change made the model look a LOT better.

Great job on the piping Mike, it looks very good!

I'm confident that #0273 had painted chain covers because it's original engine paint survives today

This book is dedicated to the #22 and it shows pictures of the chain covers painted red!

http://albums.modelbrouwers.nl/coppermine/albums/userpics/10860/DSC_0354.jpg

Right Ton. Mark loaned me the same book! Incidently, are you going to position your driving lights "as raced in '58" or as restored behind the radiator screen?

Edit: I forgot to mention my thanks to Klutz for mentioning the piping diameter as a scale issue in the first place. Looking back on it now the change made the model look a LOT better.
No problem :thumbsup: Sharing opinions and experiences is what this place is supposed to be about - we all benefit from that.

Right Ton. Mark loaned me the same book! Incidently, are you going to position your driving lights "as raced in '58" or as restored behind the radiator screen?

As restored behind the radiator screen. I will make it as much as possible as it is now in the collection of mr. Perfetti. BTW I left the chain covers alu colour because I like that combination beter with the red cam covers, but it is historically incorrect :grinno:
I managed to solder the hump today :licka::licka: so now I can replace the resin aft and make the tubular chassis, tank and spare wheel.

Under the heading "Disaster - Narrowly Averted!" comes this next update. I've been knee-deep in decals and everything was going well until I got to the #22 roundel on the rear deck. Because it overlaps the blue center stripe I worried that it might not be opaque enough. I looked at the customer build on the Hiro site and everything looked great. Disaster - I mean it looked TERRIBLE!! I quickly dug the paper backing from the trash and returned the roundel onto it. Whew! Now, how do I work around this? If I had known ahead of time I could have easily trimmed a crescent shape from the blue stripe where the roundel overlaps before it ever got near water. However, now that the stripe was set that wsn't an option. I recalled a McLaren WIP where someone had painted clear decal film before applying it to the model. If I could paint a crescent of decal paper to cover the stripe I might just get myself out of this hell hole.
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt102.jpg
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt105.jpg
In short, it worked! I was able to fully recover from this but it has taught me to never blindly trust a kit-makers decals or the method they suggest in using them. From now on I plan to test all the light colors using any spare decals before decaling the model. I shouldn't defend Hiro but it could be argued they left the stripe without a cutout so the builder could locate the roundel centered (post-restoration) or angled/offset ('58 LeMans).

This could have been the worst nightmare ..................almost ready and than this!!!
Luckily you handled it with great expertise an d now everything is fine :)

MG solved this problem like this

http://albums.modelbrouwers.nl/coppermine/albums/userpics/10860/DSC_0357.jpg

strangely enough they did not do it for the front part.

Thanks. I'm glad you like the progress.

Regarding those forward timing chain covers, engines during this period were all different. Some were painted, some weren't. Most of these cars have been modified, wrecked and restored multiple times making research even more challenging. But rest assured that my bud Mark would never let me make a mistake like that. When I start a new project he often provides me with a wealth of valuable research references. (Thanks Mark!). I'm confident that #0273 had painted chain covers because it's original engine paint survives today(and it looks like poo too!).

I stand corrected. Just did a bit of research myself! :-)

Thanks for backing me up, Porschnatic. How is the Alfa coming out ?

I'm on the last lap of this race and it's going to be a squeaker of a finish. I love final assembly. It's that point where you get to bring all the little sub-assemblies out and attach them to the car. Here's where I am on the body:
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt107.jpg
I couldn't get the photo-etch hood screen to fit well so I made a new one. The headligh liners are made from coke can aluminum. That drivers door interior paint looks a little rough! I was going to give it another pass but decided it looked kinda cool the way it is. Driving lights have tape added just like at the race. Notice one light has a strip missing. It must have peeled off pretty early because every photo of the car shows it missing. I hope to have the chassis and body screwed together tonight. That leaves windshield and exhausts for tomorrow and it's done!

you are welcome 250 Testa Rossa, which Alfa? The Tipo 33? If is that one, I stoped because I was rushing it in order to take it to the GSL and it wasn't being well and since it's an expensive kit I didn't want to ruin it. I finished another one, a Guilia. It's here:

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=947389

Also, I already finished a Tamiya Porsche Boxster that being beatifull. I will post some pictures soon. After that, will arrive a big project for me,a Revell Aston Martin DB4 with al the corrections. I have already lotsssss of pictures and goodies to start to play with. I had take my time geting the correct paint with the color Aston Martin UK sent me. That's the reason I had enter this Testarossa thread so much, to check the Derrington gwheel:naughty:
I will mess it if it wasn't for your thread, because, I would use the Renaissance one, which looks like a little bit, but it's totally incorrect. I will have to try to control myself on that one, because, in that Aston the center piece it's semi-gloss black and I will not enjoy the beautifull chrome look as in your:crying:

Keep an eye on it as I'm following yours, I've been tempted to build one...a great one indeed!





Thanks for backing me up, Porschnatic. How is the Alfa coming out ?

I love final assembly

That is the real moment! I can feel the thrill :)

The Tipo 33. I would love to see it when it's done.

OK, for that one I think will have to wait around 4-5 months more:p
But I'm preety sure you will love the Aston Martin...first pictures..next week!

The Tipo 33. I would love to see it when it's done.

Here's the last pic of the engine before frame fold:
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt109.jpg
I got just about everything in there I wanted. The armor cable was twisted up by hand from some aluminum 32 gage. It took forever but I'm happy with the result. The front water lines are solder and heat shrink. I replaced the tie rods with brass though once the body goes on no one will see it.

250 Testa Rosa: If you'd like to chit-chat with other people about subjects unrelated to the thread there is a feature called PRIVATE MESSAGE. Please learn to use it. Some people check a WIP thread every time there is a new post and it is rude to waste members time like that.

Mike the engine and all its connections are a real gem! Weathering is well done too. Are considering to weather the disc brakes a little ?

Sorry if I bother you so much, I didn't know you will take this so personnal!

Here's the last pic of the engine before frame fold:
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt109.jpg
I got just about everything in there I wanted. The armor cable was twisted up by hand from some aluminum 32 gage. It took forever but I'm happy with the result. The front water lines are solder and heat shrink. I replaced the tie rods with brass though once the body goes on no one will see it.

250 Testa Rosa: If you'd like to chit-chat with other people about subjects unrelated to the thread there is a feature called PRIVATE MESSAGE. Please learn to use it. Some people check a WIP thread every time there is a new post and it is rude to waste members time like that.

Getting close. I still need to do the windshield and headlight covers and a few odds and ends.
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt116.jpg

Ton, I put a bit of wash on the drums initially but took it off. It just looked untidy. I generally don't do a lot of suspension detail prefering to focus on carbs and steering wheels. This car has such incredible seats I spent a lot of time on those too. Before I start I mentally assign a visibility score to every part of the project and alot my time in proportion.

This car has been a big challenge but I've loved every moment.

Wow ....she is a real beauty! Be careful with the windshield and the covers ! Love to see the final pictures!

Wow, this really is getting close!

My deadline was Saturday the 26th so I could show this car at our local IPMS show. Friday night about 11:00 I was exhausted and realized it wasn't going to happen. If I had just one more day I might have been able to pull it off. In any event, I'm kinda glad I have more time now so I can do my best. More to come....

This model is gonna look good when it's done. I can already see it completed. Good Job CrateCruncher. If you want a real head-turner, get a Hasegawa TR, both a correct RHD conversion and engine from Historic Racing Miniatures, MFH Borranis, and a steering wheel from Renaissance.

My deadline was Saturday the 26th so I could show this car at our local IPMS show. Friday night about 11:00 I was exhausted and realized it wasn't going to happen. If I had just one more day I might have been able to pull it off. In any event, I'm kinda glad I have more time now so I can do my best. More to come....

Next show is yours Mike :licka: Under the conditions you described you probably would have ruined it.

If you want a real head-turner, get a Hasegawa TR, both a correct RHD conversion and engine from Historic Racing Miniatures, MFH Borranis, and a steering wheel from Renaissance.IMO this is a real head turner, done with a great expertise and craftsmanship. But I assume the "real head turner" setup you mention is the one you cannot show us because you can´t upload pictures:sarcasm1:

I am going to get a Fotki site soon.

I am going to get a Fotki site soon.

Yes I understand...it needs a lot of preparation :runaround:, thinking about it over and over :sarcasmsign:

I know CrateCruncher is building Version A of the MFH TR. I'm surprised Hiro didn't release Version D of the pontoon fender TR. If they did, it would be the # 20 entry from Le Mans 1958, driven by Francois Picard and Jarslov Juhan. The other decal option would be the #58 entry from Le Mans 1958, driven by Lucien Bianchi and Willy Mairesse.

Hey CrateCruncher, how did the car come out ? Any pictures of it completed ?

Wonderful work!!! :worshippy

I'm still working on the TR but progress has slowed since I'm not under any time constraint. I'm at a sticking point with the headlight covers. The vac-formed parts Hiro provided fit flawlessly but I'm having a devil of a time trying to fasten them using the tiny L-shaped photo-etch brackets. I'm probably overthinking it and should just glue everything together and move on. But several of the cars I want most to model have similar covers (GTO, LM,T33) so I want to get a process I can feel comfortable with.

Same goes for the windscreen. This kit came with a double set of vac-form clear parts. It's a good thing for me too because I ruined one of the windscreens when I got carried away trimming with my #11. It was a bear to trim but I got through the second one without messing anything up. Mounting the windscreen doesn't seem like it will be as tough as the headlight covers but we'll see. I'll post some pictures when I have somethign worth showing.

Mike.

Just take your time Mike. I have simular vac formed clear parts and I see trouble coming :)

I've recharged my enthusiasm for this project over the couple of weeks since my last pics. I'm starting to like this model again. Here is how she stands currently:
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt154.jpg
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt153.jpg

My short punch list of things remaining is kinda misleading because literally everything left is either too big, shaped wrong, a poor material choice or missing entirely from the kit. So there has been a lot of scratch work to do. The hold-downs were a simple upgrade:
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt152.jpg

All the belts are being made from top-grain leather instead of the brown vinyl provided:
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt149.jpg

Headlight reflectors were missing from the photo-etch:
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt121.jpg

The only thing that did work out in this phase were the headlight covers. They were first trimmed using Fiskars shears, then sanded to final shape with increasingly finer emory boards:
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt117.jpg

So thats where I am currently. I still need to scratch parts for the battery and make a fuse panel for the passenger side and she's done. WooHoo!

She is real beauty Mike! I love every inch!

she is real beauty mike! I love every inch!
:1:

Inspirational! Awesome work my friend!

Are you sure there were aluminum reflectors in the headlights? I thought they were just painted silver. Straps look great! What are you using for the buckles - photoetch?

Thanks for staying tuned and interested in this one guys. After rereading my last post it kinda sounds like I was whining and I promised at post #1 that I wouldn't do that. The kit parts are nice enough but I tend to get super picky on the high-visibility stuff.

Alex, I'm using the buckles from the photo-etch. Their just right in size. If you look at the photo-etch fret you can see four that are still attached. After trimming the leather down as thin as possible with the #11 I'm rolling the handle over the belt to compress the leather which makes it thin as paper but a lot stronger. There's just something special about real leather. It picks up the light different than the vinyl tape. I think it's worth the effort.

As far as the headlight reflector goes, I'm going off the photo's in my reference book and they look like bare aluminum inserts because I can see the sharp edge through the perspex covers. It may have been added later as a modification? I haven't studied other cars so there may be a lot of painted ones.

Are you sure there were aluminum reflectors in the headlights? I thought they were just painted silver.

The inset is metal as you can see on this picture

http://albums.modelbrouwers.nl/coppermine/albums/userpics/10860/DSC_0354.jpg

You can see it is curled/damaged on the right underside.

The inset is metal as you can see on this picture

http://albums.modelbrouwers.nl/coppermine/albums/userpics/10860/DSC_0354.jpg

You can see it is curled/damaged on the right underside.

Cool! I wonder if that was the feature on this particular car only?
A bit OT - are those Cavalleria books any good? Where can I get one reasonably and what is approx. going price for these - does anybody know?

Very nice built and clean work! Were can I fined the P.E. buckles?

Cool! I wonder if that was the feature on this particular car only?
A bit OT - are those Cavalleria books any good? Where can I get one reasonably and what is approx. going price for these - does anybody know?

No I don´t think so. If I look at 50 year old BW pictures of the 250 TR I don´t see them. On this picture from 1994 from the Lucybell it is not shown either

http://www.hapico.com/20_Auto/0732/003S.JPG

The pictures in the Cavelleria series with the inset are the latest ones after another restoration :headshake

The Cavelleria series are very nice books. I bought mine at about $80 but you see prizes that double that amount. A very good alternative is this book

http://www.amazon.com/Ferrari-Red-Dream-Doug-Nye/dp/0760328277/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1256110636&sr=8-1

This book is a summary of the 16 books of the Cavalerria series and contains about 50% of the pictures of the series.

I kinda suspect those linings in the headlight buckets might be a modification also. But as clear as that '94 photo appears, the light glare may be washing out the color of the aluminum Ton. In some photo's in the Cavalleria book the car also appears to be "missing" the liners and the photography is much better quality. I doubt a recent restoration on what is today a car worth millions would add something so radical as a bucket liner.

But looking at historical photos of the car it seems that every race the headlight covers were held on with generous amounts of tape. Considering those flimsy attachment points its reasonable to assume they were failing regularly during the car's days as an active racer. Modern photo's show the attachment brackets for the covers pop-riveted through the liner and the bucket itself. Was it reinforcement? Then there is the visibility issue. I have an old E-Type with covered headlights. I can say with some experience that you can't see jack on a dark night. I figure racing at 99/100ths with bad lights all night would be really scary not to mention exhausting. The aluminum may have been an attempt at enhancing the illumination.

Buggy, those belt buckles came with the kit on the etch sheet. I just trimmed the fret down with my Fiskars sheers because it was empty of parts at this point in the build. Several of the etch aftermarket suppliers include extra buckles on their seatbelt frets (ie: Crazy Modeler, Hobby Design). Their modern and may be too big though depending on your application.

Ton, thanks for the heads up on that book. I didn't know about it and sure couldn't justify the cost of the 16 volumes.

I kinda suspect those linings in the headlight buckets might be a modification also. But as clear as that '94 photo appears, the light glare may be washing out the color of the aluminum Ton. In some photo's in the Cavalleria book the car also appears to be "missing" the liners and the photography is much better quality.

Mike I don´t know: The Hapicom picture could be the glare but the Cavellaria picture are so Hires that I seriously doubt if there is a lining in the buckets. On the other hand I found a picture of the Lucybelle in the Joel Finn Testarossa book and this pictures clearly shows a very dark bucket :frown: We will never know ...but the good part on this: it does not matter because there isn´t a TR alike :wink:


I can say with some experience that you can't see jack on a dark night. I figure racing at 99/100ths with bad lights all night would be really scary not to mention exhausting. The aluminum may have been an attempt at enhancing the illumination.

End 50-ties the Italian traffic law forbid the use of the headlamp covers because of the loss of light. Every car Ferrari produced for the inner market had no covers anymore.


Ton, thanks for the heads up on that book. I didn't know about it and sure couldn't justify the cost of the 16 volumes.

It is definitely a gift for under the Xmas tree. On the moment there is a complete Cavalleria set for sale on Ebay starting with 1200 Euro :runaround:

Ton