I'm at my wits end.

I changed the front pads, calipers, and rotors on my '99 escort in late June (for inspection). Lifetime warrenty on the calipers from Autozone, and they were sticking a bit, so I thought...why not. Roters were work and so were pads.

Drove the car for a few days, and then started to hear a rubbing sound when I braked hard. Passed inspection, and the mechanic told me be thought it was the new calipers, so I replaced them. A few days later, the rubbing started again.

My BIL, a mechanic, looked at them this weekend. He said there's no abnormal wear on the pads or rotors, and the rubbing sound is not there when the car is in reverse. He suggested it was the CV, and said it was pretty easy to fix. His rationale was that the tulip-shaped connector in the CV wasn't aligned properly and the brakes were actually working against the drive train.

I'm a shade-tree mechanic...change brakes, oil, even upgraded the fuel injector spider on my wife's blazer, but I've never done anything with the drive train.

So...I guess my first question is whether or not the rationale makes sense. Then...while he was quick to point out what I needed to do to change it, I didn't catch the exact name of the part he suggested I change, so I also need a bit of help there.

Thanks in advance.

Bob

Generally speaking the CV does not Rub they click. Does the rub get worse if you turn hard to the left or right? Did you know that it is possible for the wheel bearing to be loose and not make a sound accept the rotor hitting the caliper? I have seen a bearing so bad that the breaks push the disk to the outside and squeal against the caliper.

Don’t carve this in stone but check it out. Jack the car up and see if that wheel jiggles back and forth.

And by the way do you know how to spell cheap piece of crap in a box with a life time grantee> that is not worth the paper the receipt is printed on?

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It doesn't get any worse if I'm turning or if the wheel is straight. It does get louder the harder I press on the brakes (if I'm trying to go from 55 down to a stop sign, for example).

I'll check out the bearings, though. My BIL did have me drive slowly down the road so he could check for wobble as I'm driving, but your rationale makes sense. And yes...I'm aware of the value of Autozone's lifetime warranties...

Bob

'94 scort. I've had CV joints behave that way... only noisy when placing a lot of pressure on the front end. But I wouldn't describe the noise as a "rub", more like a squeal, squeak and/or like heavy door hinges. I guess there is a particular noise that maybe could be described as a "rub," basically a very low-pitched squeak-friction noise. Check for a tear in the outer CV boot.

Personally I don't like the quality (or lack there-of,) of AutoZone's parts.
Re specifically, brakes ...
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=5995468&postcount=8
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=5990639&postcount=13
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=5994476&postcount=5
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=5994480&postcount=6

Small update...

It's been a busy summer and I haven't had time to do anything with this car. I've been driving it and now when I'm driving, the wheel shakes a bit as I increase my speed. I hope to find time to jack it up tomorrow because this makes me think it's the bearing...But I wanted to check with the experts here to see if there's anything else I should check on when I've got it jacked up.

Bob

Also check your ball joints and tie rod ends.

OK. Finally had time to take things apart. Just to rule out rims/tires, I put the spare on and drove it...same noise.

I checked to see if there was any top to bottom or side to side play...there was none.

I did notice that I could turn the wheel about 1/8 of a turn before the transmission would stop it...

Bob

You mean the rack would stop it ? (not "transmission" ?)
I've been told by a Ford mechanic that a worn rack & pinion gear isn't a safety issue like inner & outer tie rods are. Just an annoyance. (one I wasn't willing to put up with)

That said, having a worn rack & pinion can later down the road, potentially hide the fact that it may be time for your inner and/or outer tie rods to be replaced. Most people are signaled that it's time to replace by the knocking that goes on. But with a worn gear, that may occur all the time.

Don't know if the '99 is the same, but the '94 uses transmission fluid (red) instead of power steering fluid (black). Some people make the mistake of using power steering fluid, which wears out the pump, gearing, valves and seals prematurely.

If you want to buy cheap brake parts, the Raybestos parts that Pep Boys carries is decent. Otherwise I buy new (not rebuilt) name brand (Bendix) brand pistons for drum brakes or master cylinders, and NAPA or Raybestos dis brake calipers (rebuilt is OK). But in so far as Autozone or Advance Auto fro a caliper no unless it's a brand name special ordered.