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1998 plymouth voyager need help fast and out of ideas

07-22-2009, 08:21 AM
I have a 1998 plymouth voyager 3.0L. This thing just will not run. The only way that I can even get it to start is with the gas peddel all the way to the floor, Then it hardly runs at all. This is what happened. The timing belt broke on my way to work one mornig :frown:(interferance engine) So I got the parts that I needed and got to work. Major over haul. Got it all back together and repaired, crossed my fingers, said a prayer, and turned the key. It started :grinyes: The van ran good for a day. ( I wasn't expecting it to run like a formula one car or any thing.) Then my problem started. I checked and rechecked the timimg. Thinking I did something wrong. that's good. I checked my codes. 12,14,42,54,55. 12 I know is the batt. 14 is the map sensor (replaced no change). 42 Is the asd fuel pump relay ( changed relay and fuel pump, still no change) 54 Is no cam signal (changed both cam sensor and crank sensor, still no change :frown::banghead: and kick car.) Then 55 is that ther are no more codes. Rechecked my codes after I finally got the thing to start again. Only two codes 12 & 55. I haven't yet checked the egr valve to see if it is stuck and i took the idle valve out and cleaned it as well as the throtle body. Oh I almost forgot when you do get it running it gets allittle bit better idle as it warms up.( not much though) It just seems like it is getting too much gas. PLEASE HELP I NEED THE VAN BY THIS WEEK END. (have to get the kids from Wis.)

07-22-2009, 10:32 AM
Check your fuel pressure regulator, remove the vacuum line and see if there is any fuel resent in the line or gas coming out of regulator. I believe it should be on the fuel rail.

Another thing you can check is the Idle Air Control vavle on the throttle body. Make sure to clean throttle body and passage to the IAC.

Hope this helps.

07-22-2009, 10:44 AM
I already cleaned the IAC and throtlebody to no avail. the regulator is in the tank on the pump and I changed it with the pump. Unless that is something different. My schematic in the book shows one up by the fuel rail, but I can't seem to find it. are there two regulators or are there just two different places that they put it. anymore ideas. thanks

07-22-2009, 01:12 PM
Pressure regulator is on the right side (passenger side) of the engine. It is mounted to the fuel rail. It will have a small vacuum line going to the center and the other line will be the return to the tank. Double ck all your vacuum lines as to proper routing.

07-22-2009, 01:28 PM
I checked for the regulator again and I do not have one there mine is stricktly in the tank thanks anyway.

07-23-2009, 08:42 AM
Did you pull some plugs out, are they soaked?

07-23-2009, 06:55 PM
Did you pull some plugs out, are they soaked?
yeh they are but I just found a torn intake gasket so I think It could be a vaccum leak. Hopefully?

07-23-2009, 09:21 PM
good place to start, but it would have to be a major leak to cause your symptoms- otherwise the car might just idle high and surge.

07-24-2009, 08:21 AM
Its pretty big. I can stick my idex finger in the seperation easily.

07-24-2009, 09:19 AM
I have never seen the 3.0 actualy bump valves

do a compression check and get back to me

07-25-2009, 07:16 AM
compression check good idea, the fact that it ran good for a day is a puzzle...

07-25-2009, 11:55 AM
Checked compression 3 cyl. @150 psi and 3 cyl. @90 psi I think timing may be off a little going to check that again

07-25-2009, 01:26 PM
This is pdragons' wife with an update: Timing was a bit off, so he adjusted it. Compression was still low, so he's going to try a wet compression test now. Personally I think it's the rings, but as I know nothing about cars...let's just say I'm getting a lot of eye rolls.

If it's NOT the rings, is there anything else it could be? The valves are all operational.

07-25-2009, 04:30 PM
do a cylinder leak down test and make sure you don't have a bent vaulve 90psi is a bit low for compression even on a cold engine i would not waste my time on a wet compression test', you don't hear any vac. leaks, recheck the timing again and make sure the water pump pulley spins freely,as well as the tensioner

07-30-2009, 12:06 PM
In reading through this... it looks to me like the timing belt was improperly installed, or the tensioner is misadjusted and it jumped time on you (it happens).
This also explains why it "ran good for a day". It'll jump time when under a load, but if the cylinders are already firing, it'll keep on going. Next time you start it when cold, the belt jumps. (I've seen this happen)
This can show up as low compression, but keep in mind that the 3.0L engine is not a high compression engine by any definition, so a leaky compression tester or fittings, and slow cranking can seem like somethings wrong, when it isn't. Check the timing belt (and I know that's a pain in the butt to do, but..stuff happens...)

If the compression is low, and equally low for all 6 cylinders, there's probably nothing wrong and you're chasing invisible demons. The 3.0 wil last just about forever... might smoke a little, but you can fix that with valve seals pretty cheaply. The EGR code is probably coming from the air charge valve system which is under the van (see the 1psi charge port by the right engine mount? look for a busted vacuum hose around there and below there under the van)

hope this helps...

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