EATC Reset

How do I reset the EATC diagnostic codes? I tried hitting the Front Defrost button but that doesn't work. Diagnostic codes 24, followed by E0, 11, 84 and 00 appear when running the test. Common fault 24 indicated blend actuator is not working which explains why hot air only comes out of ducts despite fact that A/C compressor is providing cool air. I tried disconnecting battery also, running diagnostics again, and receiving same codes. Is there something I'm missing? OFF and Floor button simultaneously and then A/C button within 2 seconds. Diagnostics run producing those codes. Then, hitting Front Defrost button. No joy. Codes still appear.
Any ideas on how to get rid of those codes and other than code 24, I have no idea what they relate to.

Thanks,
Jim
2001 Taurus SEL

You should be pressing the OFF and Floor buttons simultaneously, then the Auto button within 2 seconds. Since you are getting into the self test most, I suspect you typed 'A/C' but are really pressing 'Auto.'

Are you sure you are pressing the front defrost button to clear codes rather than the rear defrost? Also, I suppose if you're doing nothing to fix the codes, there's a good chance that they are being reset through the self test which is why it never appears as if they are clearing.

I do not have the service manual for 2001. I expected the 2002 to be similar, but evidently it's not since all the self diagnostic codes should be three digit codes in the 2002 model year. Code 024 matches up as 'Temperature Blend Door Failure or Short' but none of the others exist in the 2002 manual. Oddly the factory service manual for the 1998 model year also indicates 3-digit self diagnostic codes.

-Rod

Rod,

That was it. I was not entering the diagnostic mode correctly. Instead of hitting AUTO afer pressing the FLOOR and OFF buttons I was hitting MAX A/C. After receiving your response I ran the test and got 024. I then reset the code, which apparently moved the blend actuator. It took two times to get it to break loose. After the first time, the air was not as warm but was indeed cooler than the earlier tries. After running the test the 2nd time it moved the blend actuator all the way. Now it's putting out very cold air. I'm grateful for your assist.

Thanks a lot for catching this and helping me out.

Jim

Interesting, I wonder what mode it was going in to, something undocumented I guess. I'm glad you got it working, and thank you for the follow-up!

-Rod

Rod,

The pleasure was mine. I used to work for Collins Radio and lived in Cedar Rapids back in the 70s. Yes, it appears there are some other undocumented things going on when I ran the test through that routine. Anyways, it's working good now. Thanks again and have a good day.

Jim
01 3.0L DOHC SEL
01 AM General H-1 Hummer Wagon
94 Mustang Cobra Indy 500 Pace Car
08 Escape

It's a small world, I'm an Engineer (Technical Project Manager) at Rockwell Collins here in CR, which as I'm sure you're aware, used to be Collins Radio Company.

-Rod

Not that this adds anything to your problem as it seems to have cleared up, I just want to add this for anyone else's benefit that may have a similar problem, redundancy aside and year non-specific.

-The infamous blend door actuator motor assembly that makes a thumping sound when trying to change the temperature. I've had this.

-The pin to the blend door that keys to the above motor will round over and will not advance by the motor. I currently have that problem and have decided to live with it because it's a real PITA to get to and I've too much else to do. So, to get it to work, you have to put the fan on the lowest speed and then the blend door can move. The fan puts too much pressure on the door for it to move. An unfortunate casualty of another of my debacles involving a gaggle of thermometers falling inside the air duct....don't ask....

-Maybe not the same as the temp problem, but just for good measure, if all you can get is air to your defrost, there's a very good chance you have a vacuum line disconnected or leaking as this is the default position when the vacuum is gone.

-Vacuum leaks or lines disconnected will cause other non-operational problems. Often the leak can easily be found by a sucking or hissing sound. Sometimes you will experience a performance problem and maybe even an engine fault code relating to fuel/air not right.

Help me anyone to make this a nice complete list for the forum search. I've run out of memory. :)