Axle/CV Joint?

me again ... 93 LX, 1.9, 105K

I hear a grinding only on left turns, sounds like it's from the passenger side front end. Is this typical CV join/axle assembly symptom?

* Should I try lubricating it before I replace it?

* I just did all the front end bushings .. noticed when I did the ball joint on the pass. side that the axle would swing freely toward be... as if it were not connected. I don't recall the other side feeling that way. Is it supposed to come out of (whatever it goes into) that easily?

Thanks

At 105K, if you still have the original axles, you probably need new ones. I waited tilll much later, than wished that I had repalced them earlier.

It is not normal. Nothing should be moving freely.
That axle should be very easy to remove and examine. Check it out and replace if necessary. I think a new axle is only $50 or so.

Well, the axle shaft would move in-out perhaps a inch or a little more. Both left and right side axles will, if the ball joint is disconnected from the lower control arm. Thats due to the 'sliding' design of the inner joint on the axle. In fact, if you pull hard on that axle shaft you can pull the inner joint apart, and may rip the rubber boot. This applies to the inner joint only, the outer joint doesnt move in that manner. Then you would need to repair it!
The usual noise of a worn out CV joint on turns is a clickety-clack kind of noise, proportional to the car's speed, and a little louder when accelerating. I wouldnt describe it as a grinding. There isnt anything that you can grease really. If the CV joint has gotten dry (from a ripped boot) replacement is needed.
For a grinding noise, I would suspect part of the brake caliper is rubbing the wheel; so I would have a close look at the brakes, & make sure the bolts holding it to the spindle are not loose. Make sure the lug nuts on the wheel arent loose,and that the big hub nut is tight.

That axle should be very easy to remove and examine. Check it out and replace if necessary. I think a new axle is only $50 or so.

At 105K miles, if you are going to remove it, you may as well put a new one in. NAPA sells good rebuilt ones. I would not consider it to be easy. Passenger side isn't too bad, but the drivers side one is a real PIA.

I just got both axles out of a 91 Escort I am working on. I already had the outer ends of the axles out of the hubs, and the car supported on wooden blocks under the body below the front edge of the front doors; about 12" up in the air.
To get the passenger side axle out I used my biggest screwdriver (21" long - 3/8" square shaft) with the tip in between the transaxle and the inner end of the inner joint on the axle - and pried it out with a quick sideways swing of the screwdriver. Then I supported the inner end of the axle with my hand and wiggled the axle till it came the rest of the way out of the transaxle. Dont drop the axle on your face!
This was done from underneath, but also works from above if you have the intake manifold removed. (Wont work on the drivers side though).
For the driver's side, I put a jack under the bellhousing, undid the 6 nuts and 2 bolts on the subframe, and dropped the subrame out of the way. (The jack is needed if you want to be able to put the subframe back up in place). Then there was just enough space to put a big screwdriver (17" long - 3/8" square shaft) up at a 45 degree angle, to fit between the side of the transaxle and the inner part of the inner axle joint. The 'webs' on the tranaxle casting interfere with the screwdriver (or pry-bar of your choice) unless it comes in from behind the transaxle, angled up. I drove the handle of the screwdriver sideways (toward the passenger side) with a framing hammer. The axle popped out a ways; then by lifting the innner end of the axle joint a little, I could slide the axle shaft the rest of the way out of the tranny.
CAUTION: You need to be careful not to put the tip of the screwdriver in 'as far as you can' as you pry, since the tip of the screwdriver may slice a cut in the outer part of the oil seal for the axle assembly. I would put it all the way in, then pull it back about 3/16" before I hammered the screwdriver handle -sideways-.
I have also done this same axle extraction job using a 'Pry Bar" (a carpentry tool), and a 'curved tire spoon' (www.kentool.com #32102, aka T2X. a tool for truck tires).
It wouldnt be such a Bad Job if the bottom of the car was clean, instead of being ungly with oil, grease, and rust.

I caught my outer CV Joint boots the second they tore as had noticed a ton of axle grease all over the wheel well. Tried the best split-boot available (from Dorman) and had virtually no success with it. So I just kept driving on it until it wore out.

It didn't make a grinding noise, it made a squeaky squeal noise during turns and dips like a tortured mouse. Had over 180k on it before it became time for replacement. Over 200k on the driver side. Would probably still be running them had the boots not worn out.

Currently have over 230k on my '94 and the only time I've ever heard a grinding noise on turns is when the top part of the brake pad had worn to the backplate.

Seconding Denisond3, the movement you observed on the inner joints is normal. Do not remove both axles simultaneously. Only remove one at a time or the gear may fall into the transmission. Did have a really tough time getting one of the axles out and needed an air-hammer wedge. (even then it was tough and needed an assistant to pull on the thing while it was being wedged out with the air-tool)

Tried the best split-boot available (from Dorman) and had virtually no success with it.

I'm unimpressed with just about everything they make. I once bought a cap from them (I think it was a power steering cap) that looked just like the OEM one, but didn't fit very good and it came off while I was driving. I replaced it with an OEM one (from the junkyard) which never failed again.

I make my choices very carefully. Split boots from everyone else were complete junk because they weren't designed to seal; letting air and moisture in and grease (remember centrifugal forces) out. They wouldn't prevent the joint from drying out.

The Dorman boot was the only design available that was supposed to seal and keep the lube in. Specially designed rubber/plastic material that would bond to itself when exposed to a solvent. Unfortunately it's tough not to get some of that axle grease you're packing in there on the boot while trying to seal it. Lasted all of about a week before it split at the seam near the inner edge and the grease squirting out.

After the experience I googled and there were some people who had reported success with it. For a large truck, thick axle shafts and slow drivers it might do the job. But I'm the circle and main highways several times a week and regularly do 80+ and on occassion 90-100mph. Spinning centrifugal forces at those speeds likely just ripped the thing apart.