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Should I replace OEM Intank + Airtex Inline -with- Walbro 255HP Intank?


Sh4rky
04-01-2003, 01:47 PM
Sorry, I know there are other topics that discuss this subject but I couldn't really find a specific answer for my application.
I have a 96 Integra GS-R, I'm running a custom Drag III turbo kit, with stock injectors (240cc) and the Airtex inline pump. Should I replace OEM Intank + Airtex Inline -with- Walbro 255HP Intank to run 8 - 10psi of boost? First, will it provide the necerssary pressures safely? Secondly, will I see any advantages by using this setup (walbro intank) VS my original (oem intank+inline)? I'm planning to go AEM EMS in the near future too, btw.

GSR
04-01-2003, 09:39 PM
you'll need the inline to supply the fmu with the sudden pressure increase it requires. dont run anything over 8psi on a 12:1 fmu. the 12:1 means it raises fuel pressure 12psi for every 1 psi of boost. static fuel pressure is 40psi so 40psi+(12*10psi)=160psi of fuel pressure :bloated:
your injectors can only take so much

if you decide to later on switch to ems with bigger injectors to allow a lower steady fuel pressure then you can go ahead and use the intank.

intanks flow volume, inlines flow pressure, fmu's rely on pressure

casperGSR
04-01-2003, 10:30 PM
I'd look into some new injectors before you do anything else, specially if you want to run more then 7 lbs... I was running rc 310cc injectors as soon as force fed my motor and i was only running 6 lbs, I've got 500cc holley injectors to run 12 lbs daily (17 to 18lbs at the track)... btw, if you can get holley instead of rc's... much better injectors IMO.

GSR
04-02-2003, 12:31 PM
Originally posted by casperGSR
I'd look into some new injectors before you do anything else, specially if you want to run more then 7 lbs... I was running rc 310cc injectors as soon as force fed my motor and i was only running 6 lbs, I've got 500cc holley injectors to run 12 lbs daily (17 to 18lbs at the track)... btw, if you can get holley instead of rc's... much better injectors IMO.

17-18psi? :eek: is that on a t04b or t04e compressor?

i'm assuming your engine is built

what kind of fuel managment are you running

are holley's saturated (high impedance). and whats the price on the 500cc. (are they 500cc or 50lb, i though holley only had lb ratings)

casperGSR
04-02-2003, 06:17 PM
Originally posted by GSR


17-18psi? :eek: is that on a t04b or t04e compressor?

i'm assuming your engine is built

what kind of fuel managment are you running

are holley's saturated (high impedance). and whats the price on the 500cc. (are they 500cc or 50lb, i though holley only had lb ratings)

t04e (60 trim)... motor is coming outta the shop actually in the next two days as soon as we tweak some things (nagging exhaust leak where the downpipe bolts onto the turbo housing). I currently have the vortech fmu which is fine for my daily driving as far as the amount of boost I'm running but I'm gonna be getting the aem setup so I can actually do the 17/18 lbs at the track... so in truth i haven't ran it yet at 18 but plan to, so my fib i guess. Anyways, as far as the holleys yes they are saturated and they do go by lbs/hr rating... but to my understanding the 50lbs rating is equivalent to 500cc, very well could be wrong. I was able to get them for 270. And yes my engine is built. Hopefully should have some pics of it shortly to put up of the rebuild.

casperGSR
04-02-2003, 06:20 PM
Originally posted by casperGSR


t04e (60 trim)... motor is coming outta the shop....
oops, actually the car is coming outta the shop, meant to say motor will be done having work done on it and car will be outta the shop.

GSR
04-03-2003, 04:17 PM
its actually a little higher. something like 1lb=10.5cc but it doesnt matter

I just bought the ems+boost solenoid for $1000 last week, now im just waiting on the wb o2 and controller...cant wait...hoping for at least 280whp@11psi and a 12sec 1/4. oh and i just ordered mandrel bend polished ss 3" piping for really cheap, hope they come through

delphi injectors are about the same price. $320 new for up to 60lb

andno, the fmu is not fine even for low boost. i have the same setup on my car now, went dyno at 5, 7, 9psi and found out im running really lean (13.5) between 5.5-6.5k and overly rich by 7.5k (11:1) on all three runs...not good

ems is the shiznit, but its a bitch to make it idle smooth

well good luck on your car. post pics, graphs, slips when you get a chance

casperGSR
04-03-2003, 06:13 PM
Originally posted by GSR
its actually a little higher. something like 1lb=10.5cc but it doesnt matter

I just bought the ems+boost solenoid for $1000 last week, now im just waiting on the wb o2 and controller...cant wait...hoping for at least 280whp@11psi and a 12sec 1/4. oh and i just ordered mandrel bend polished ss 3" piping for really cheap, hope they come through

delphi injectors are about the same price. $320 new for up to 60lb

andno, the fmu is not fine even for low boost. i have the same setup on my car now, went dyno at 5, 7, 9psi and found out im running really lean (13.5) between 5.5-6.5k and overly rich by 7.5k (11:1) on all three runs...not good

ems is the shiznit, but its a bitch to make it idle smooth

well good luck on your car. post pics, graphs, slips when you get a chance

that's interesting... with the vortech I've never ran really lean, actually i usually run around 14.5 or 14.6 when you average it out, obviously it'll jump back and forth on the spectrum but usually ran from 14.4 to 15.0 (ideal number being 14.7) unless i go open throttle which will obviously send more fuel. 280whp at 11psi should not be a problem. I'm looking to push 375 to the wheels at 17 or 18 lbs hopefully, we'll see... as far as 1/4 mile I'm not expecting much because I'm not gonna be able to launch the way I would like to until I get some aftermarket axles, stocks won't last too long if I hammer it off the line at 18lbs. As far as the idle, that's best part of turbocharging a car that's not meant to be, usually your idle is a bitch and there's nothing better then when somebody rolls up next to your car and asks whats wrong with cause it's not idleing right, that's when you smoke and he learns. :D Definately will post some pics and graphs... What kinda work you have on your block?

casperGSR
04-03-2003, 08:17 PM
Originally posted by GSR
I just bought the ems+boost solenoid for $1000 last week, now im just waiting on the wb o2 and controller...

BTW, where were you able to get the ems for only $1000... was it new or used?

GSR
04-04-2003, 04:07 PM
it was used, from a friend but i can get you a new one for $1100, I believe the price includes shipping, let me know if yo need his #.

anything under 80% throttle (measured by tps) will run the ecu in open loop mode where it receives feedback from the sensors and makes constant changes to try and keep a 14.7 ratio. If you're measuring from your narrow band sensor chances are your numbers are off. narrowbands only measure lean/stoich/rich, but not how lean or how rich. theres a diagram showing the voltage output at different a/f ratios that shows how accurate a narrowband 01-volt sensor really is, ill try to look for it. ideal ratio for fi is somewhere around 12.5:1. at 13.5:1 im sure i was detonating pretty bad :(

there shouldnt be a bad idle with stock cams. hondata is fairly easy to idle smooth, the ems just needs a little more time. a jumpy idle is caused by lumpy cams but imo, it sounds like ish. and what you hear when a car lines up at the track is a 2 stage rev limiter. It cuts spark to keep the rev limit at a preset level (hear a lot of backfiring) for consistent launches, and on turboed cars it retards timing and adds a shitload more fuel so the it completes combustion in the manifold/turbo. this keeps the turbo spooled even with no load. imagine those cars leaving the line fully spooled at 30psi :eek: .

the ems has this anti-lag feature.

I have nothing done to my block besides a .079 hg and arp studs. im now at 153,9xx miles.

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