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2004 Rodeo burns 1qt oil in 3K miles


tap2004
06-12-2009, 02:19 PM
My 2004 Rodeo with 43K miles burns 1quart of oil in 3K miles (can't even make it to an oil change without having to add the quart). The dealer says this is normal. Does anyone have this issue or agree that it's normal. I also have ticking in the engine which they say is excessive carbon build up. They want $300 to do a decarb service. Could the two be linked?

Cat Fuzz
06-12-2009, 05:08 PM
It is published in the owners manual that the oil consumption is 'normal'. They know about it and this covers their butts when people will inevitably let the engine get to low on oil and spin a bearing. Typically, having to add one quart between oil changes is nothing to be concerned about.

The ticking is what they say it is. Oil passages restricted with gunk and carbon build-up. Ask them to guarantee that it will solve the ticking problem and have them do it. BTW, the gunk and carbon is usually due to not changing the oil often enough. You could have the de-carbon job done and then switch to synthetic. That will help prevent the build-up in the first place.

Ramblin Fever
06-12-2009, 05:43 PM
Hmm, this is more of an issue on the 98-2002 yrs.

You're having this issue at only 40k miles ?? Does this truck primarily see city or highway driving? And, does it ever GET to see the highway for more then an hour at a time?

These trucks love to be drove, and will gunk up badly if they're not able to burn the crap out sorta-speak.

FWIW...a long time Isuzu engine specialist highly recommends running Rotella synthetic 5w-40 diesel/gasoline rated oil in these engines, can be found at Walmart. And make sure you use a GOOD oil filter; i.e Napa gold, K&N, Isuzu, Purolator. Do NOT be using Fram on this engine.

tap2004
06-12-2009, 06:10 PM
I bought the car used in 2006. It only had 10K miles on it, so it hadn't been driven very much when new. Most of my driving is city with highway drives usually not longer than 30 minutes.

I am concerned that the engine is not going to last because of these issues and maybe I should trade it in. I don't know how to do mechanical work so worried about the long term potential issues ... if burning oil and carbon build up are the start of more costly problems? Or it may just sound like the improved maintenance recomeneded here and by the dealer will help with the longevity of the engine?

I will ask for the better quality oil and parts when I go in for service. And it sounds like I should take some road trips to help keep the engine clean.

amigo-2k
06-12-2009, 06:56 PM
I've burned about 3/4 qt per 3k since new on my 2000. It is normal.

I also, add a half can of sea foam before I change oil to keep the carbon in check.

As long as you watch the oil every 1k, you should not have any issues.

Cat Fuzz
06-12-2009, 07:07 PM
I remember my old 78 AMC Matador. Didn't burn a drop of oil. I would still check it every single time I got gas. Nowadays, most cars can just be expected to burn a little bit.

Ramblin Fever
06-12-2009, 11:44 PM
The actual burning of the 1qt per 3k miles isn't really an issue in my mind, especially if they're using 5w-30, which is the most likely aspect. And if so, a qt of that thin stuff every 3k sounds about right.

There's no reason why that engine shouldn't last you a LONG time; ANY engine with a lot of city driving is going to get gunked up....it's the nature of *city* driving as you're not putting the engine at or above 3-4k rpm AND you don't drive long enough in the city to get that engine good and hot to clean the crap out.

My brother in laws 4.2L inline 6 chevy engine, which is supposed to be one of the best, burns a qt every 3,500 miles and it sounds god awful, ticking like a sewing machine....reason...mainly cause it sees NOTHING but city driving at 45mph or less and it has 150k miles of NOTHING but this kind of life.

My 3.2L Isuzu Rodeo currently has 192k miles, runs and sounds like new, and doesn't use a dab of oil in 4k miles.....but I am the original owner and we do a lot of highway driving, including steep mountain passes which really work the engine and cleans the crap out.

I guarantee you, if you take that truck on a good Sunday family drive of an hour to two hours at least twice a month, it will run better.

There's no way I'd part with an Isuzu that only had 40k miles on it...no way...that trucks got a long way to go.

Also, the dealer, no matter what you ask of them, they are not going to shell the cost of a different kind of oil unless you supply it to them.

rexbest
10-13-2009, 09:50 PM
Hmm, this is more of an issue on the 98-2002 yrs.

You're having this issue at only 40k miles ?? Does this truck primarily see city or highway driving? And, does it ever GET to see the highway for more then an hour at a time?

These trucks love to be drove, and will gunk up badly if they're not able to burn the crap out sorta-speak.

FWIW...a long time Isuzu engine specialist highly recommends running Rotella synthetic 5w-40 diesel/gasoline rated oil in these engines, can be found at Walmart. And make sure you use a GOOD oil filter; i.e Napa gold, K&N, Isuzu, Purolator. Do NOT be using Fram on this engine.

Just a question out of pure curiosity, but what is wrong with Fram filters on Isuzu engines? Also, what are your opinions on Bosch, STP, or Mobil filters?

Cat Fuzz
10-14-2009, 02:36 AM
Just a question out of pure curiosity, but what is wrong with Fram filters on Isuzu engines? Also, what are your opinions on Bosch, STP, or Mobil filters?

Just about anything is better than a Fram. Frams are cheaply made and are only popular due to effective marketing. The filter element is thinner than almost any other oil filter out there. They use cheap materials when putting them together and they have been known to fall apart on the inside and clog things up.

I'd rather use a Wal-mart brand filter than a Fram.

motorking
10-16-2009, 09:28 AM
I bought the car used in 2006. It only had 10K miles on it, so it hadn't been driven very much when new. Most of my driving is city with highway drives usually not longer than 30 minutes.

I am concerned that the engine is not going to last because of these issues and maybe I should trade it in. I don't know how to do mechanical work so worried about the long term potential issues ... if burning oil and carbon build up are the start of more costly problems? Or it may just sound like the improved maintenance recomeneded here and by the dealer will help with the longevity of the engine?

I will ask for the better quality oil and parts when I go in for service. And it sounds like I should take some road trips to help keep the engine clean.
Hi,
I am the technical training manager for FRAM. I would ask that you do not belive what others in this forum say about FRAM, this is really misinformation. I am going to show you two service bullitens that Isuzu has posted for your vehicle and I agree that some more freeway driving to get your engine and oil to full operating temp may help.
Here are the bulltens and if you have any other filtration related questions, I can be reached at Jay.Buckley@Honeywell.com and will be happy to answer them.
Oil recommendations-
Engine Oil


Grade SE, SF, SG, SH, SJ or ILSAC GF-1, GF-2, or GF-3All temperatures 5W-30 (preferred)Above -18°C (0°F) SAE 10W-30Below -18°C (0°F) SAE 5W-30
Service Buliten regarding oil use
2007 Service Bulletins
TSB SB07-01-S001

ISSUE DATE: JANUARY 2007
Engine Oil Usage Testing and Reporting (This Bulletin Supersedes SB04-01-S004)

Affected Vehicles
All Light Duty Isuzu Vehicles
Service Information
This bulletin has been revised to include new mileage information for Ascender, i-280, i-290, i-350, and i-370 vehicles and to update Model Years.
Before performing any warranty repairs, based on a customer's complaint of excessive engine oil consumption, the attached Engine Oil Usage Test/Report must be completed in full.
The updated Engine Oil Usage Test / Report is divided into two parts, PROCEDURE # 1 and PROCEDURE # 2.
Procedure # 1, the inspection and testing portion of the Engine Oil Usage Test / Report, are eligible for warranty submission. Procedure # 1 warranty claim may only be submitted ONE time per vehicle. Review Procedure # 1 Results and perform the appropriate action.
Complete all steps in Procedure #1 before continuing on to Procedure # 2 (if required).
Procedure # 2, the validation portion, is NOT reimbursable under warranty. Complete all steps in Procedure # 2. Review Procedure # 2
Results and perform the appropriate action.
The Technician, Service Manager and Customer are to acknowledge the findings by signing and dating the bottom of the Engine Oil
Usage Test / Report. Attach a copy of the completed report to the back of the Repair Order (R/O) hard copy and provide a copy to the customer.
NOTE : 1.Normal authorization procedures must be followed for such repairs.
2.Information released on paper and electronic format prior to bulletin release cannot be updated.
For the most current and up to date information refer to website.

All engines require oil to lubricate and protect the load bearing and internal moving parts from wear including cylinder walls, pistons and piston rings. When a piston moves down its cylinder, a thin film of oil is left on the cylinder wall. During the power stroke, part of this oil layer is consumed in the combustion process. As a result, varying rates of oil consumption are accepted as normal in all engines.
Oil Consumption
The accepted rate of oil consumption for engines used in Ascender, i-280, i-290, i-350, and i-370 vehicles is 1 quart (0.946 liter) in 2,000 miles (3200 km).
The accepted rate of oil consumption for engines used in Trooper (UX), Axiom (UP), VehiCROSS (VX), Rodeo (UE), and Rodeo Sport/Amigo (UA) vehicles is 1 quart (0.473 liter) in 1,000 mi (1600 km).
IMPORTANT : Always refer to the Isuzu Service Policies and Procedures Manual for specific details on warranty coverage and policies.

This rate only applies to personal use vehicles, under warranty, that are driven in a non-aggressive manner and maintained in accordance with the appropriate maintenance (http://www.alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO~V139465608~C39038~R0~OD~N/0/101825161/105763690/105765795/105765799/34853741/56180732) schedule, with less than 36,000 miles (58,000 km), driven at legal speeds in an unloaded (for trucks) condition.
IMPORTANT : This rate does not apply to vehicles that are driven in an aggressive manner, at high RPM, high speeds, or in a loaded condition (for trucks). Oil consumption for vehicles driven under these conditions will be more.

Many factors can affect a customer's concern with oil consumption. Driving habits and vehicle maintenance (http://www.alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO~V139465608~C39038~R0~OD~N/0/101825161/105763690/105765795/105765799/34853741/56180732) vary from owner to owner. Thoroughly evaluate each case before deciding whether the vehicle in question has abnormal engine oil consumption.
Gasket and External Leaks
Inspect the oil pan and engine covers for leakage due to overtightened, damaged, or out of place gaskets. Inspect oil lines and fittings for signs of leakage.
Improper Reading of the Oil Level Indicator (Dipstick)
Verify that the dipstick tube is fully seated in the block. When checking the oil level, make sure the dipstick is wiped clean before taking an oil level reading and fully depress the dipstick until the shoulder bottoms out on the dipstick tube. The dipstick should be the proper part number for the engine/vehicle that is being checked.
IMPORTANT : Refer to the Owner Manual for checking and adding engine oil.

Not Waiting Long Enough After Running Engine to Check Oil Level
Some engines require more time than others for the oil to drain back into the crankcase. To assure a sufficient amount of oil has drained back to the crankcase, and an accurate reading can be obtained, the vehicle should be allowed to sit for at least 15 minutes, after the engine has been shut off, before taking an oil level reading. In order to ensure accurate results, the temperature of the oil should be close to the same temperature as the last time the oil level was checked.
Improper Oil Fill After an Oil Change
Following an oil change, verify that the proper amount and type of oil was put in the engine and that the oil level on the dipstick is not above the full mark or below the add marks. Refer to the Owner's Manual or Service Manual for information on recommended oil quantity, viscosity, and quality.
Aggressive Driving, High Speed or High RPM Driving
Aggressive driving and/or continuous driving at high speeds/high RPM will increase oil consumption. Because this may not always be an everyday occurrence, it is hard to determine exactly how much the oil economy will be affected.
Towing or Heavy Usage
Towing a trailer will increase oil consumption and may cause oil consumption to fall below the normal accepted rate referenced in this bulletin for an unloaded vehicle in a personal use application. Large frontal area trailers will further increase the work required from the engine, especially at highway speeds, and thus increases the rate of oil consumption.
Crankcase Ventilation System
Verify that the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system is operating properly. Blockages, restrictions, or damage to the PCV system can result in increased oil use.
Oil Dilution (Fuel and Water)
On vehicles that are usually driven short distances, less than 5 miles (8 km), especially in colder weather, unburned fuel and condensation generated from cold engine operation may not get hot enough to evaporate out of the oil. When this occurs, the dipstick may indicate that the oil level is over-full. Subsequent driving on a trip of sufficient length to enable normal engine operating temperature for 30 minutes or more, in order to vaporize excess moisture and fuel, may give the customer the impression of excessive oil consumption.
Engine Temperature
If an engine is run at overheated temperatures (see Owner's Manual or Service Manual) for more than brief periods, oil will oxidize at a faster than normal rate. In addition, gaskets may distort, piston rings may stick, and excessive wear may result. Verify that all cooling system components are in proper working order.
Engine Wear
Piston scuffing, excessive piston-to-wall clearance, tapered or out of round cylinders, worn, damaged or improperly installed valve guides, seals and piston rings will all cause an increase in oil consumption.

As you can see, they seem to be aware of the issue and they agree with one of the posters on here that too much city driving is bad for the engine. You should also heed the checks about making sure the PCV system is functioning, not just replacing the PCV valve, make sure all the passages and hoses connected to it are clear and free of sludge. You do not know how much short trip driving the PO did with this truck, it could be sludged up and using a high detergent oil for a few changes could also be in order.
good luck:biggrin:

95.5 Rodeo
10-16-2009, 12:38 PM
Just about anything is better than a Fram. Frams are cheaply made and are only popular due to effective marketing.

Cat,

Not only effective marketing but trolling by their technical training manager. Jay Buckley (apparently a real person) spends a lot of time on the internet trolling the forums, doing damage control and extolling the virtues of Fram products.

Jay- my Rodeo's lifters ticked horribly in the morning when I used a Fram oil filter. I changed to another brand and the problem went away. My buddy installed a Fram fuel filter on his Chevy pickup and it split down the seam, blowing gasoline everywhere. He was lucky his truck and his dog didn't go up in flames.

Sorry, but I am sticking with "tribal knowledge" and "15 yr old internet studies of cut open oil filters" and staying away from your company's products.


Regards,
Dale

Motorking's forum posts-
http://www.cleanmpg.com/forums/showthread.php?p=233557
http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f23/where-should-i-buy-filters-236667/index3.html
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=448762&postid=5090411

pharm_rodeo
10-17-2009, 03:50 AM
A lot of companies hire "experts" or "the average joe" to sing the praises of their products. Look at the blogs out there just advertising one certain product line. Everyone is doing it.

These people are nothing but trolls.

What are the odds of a "technical trainer" posting after someone stated that FRAM is a POS? :lol:

Must be boring trolling the boards everyday cutting and pasting unreliable specs.



BTW, FRAM products are worthless. If it weren't for Walmart carrying FRAM they'd be out of business. :lol2:


ETA: Jay I'll make sure you get plenty of emails.

motorking
10-17-2009, 05:18 AM
I guess we have to agree to disagree. Yes, I do look at postings about our products on the internet and offer help and advice when I can. That is exactly what I did here, looked at the problem and gave the guy the official factory TSB that address's his issue. I guess that somehow makes me a bad guy? FRAM cares very much about what you think about our products, that is why I am here in the first place. Have a great weekend guys.:grinyes:

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