can i do this on my bike?

I have a 1986 honda magna vf700c. It has 2 seperate brake calipers on the front wheel. One is froze up, so im not able to use my front brakes right now. Is there any way i can convert this to just on brake caliper, since the other side works?

Also, if anyone knows how to get the one caliper unfroze, please inform me how. It took a lot of work to get it off my bike since it was stuck in one position.

I would strongly recommend against trying to eliminate one of the front calipers on your bike. I had an 85 Magna (mechanically identical to yours) and they have notoriously weak front forks. If you took one caliper off, it would cause a twisting effect on the forks, which would most likely lead to a broken fork cross-brace or worse. Mine was missing the cross brace when I bought it because the previous owner dumped it. I went through 2 more in the 6 years I owned the bike due to Michigans horrible roads.

I would strongly recommend against trying to eliminate one of the front calipers on your bike. I had an 85 Magna (mechanically identical to yours) and they have notoriously weak front forks. If you took one caliper off, it would cause a twisting effect on the forks, which would most likely lead to a broken fork cross-brace or worse. Mine was missing the cross brace when I bought it because the previous owner dumped it. I went through 2 more in the 6 years I owned the bike due to Michigans horrible roads.


So, do you know how i could fix this on my own? I know about the rebuild kits for them, but i dont know how to take them apart.

I'msure rebuild kits are still available through Honda or aftermarket parts suppliers. Most caliper pistons are removed by using compressed air through the hole where the brake like attaches. If the piston is seized, it may take more effort as the compressed air may not be enough to overcome the corrosion that seized it in the first place. A muffler/brake shop or machine shop may have tooling necessary to free it up, and wouldn't charge you much to do it (maybe $20) if you can't get it free yourself. A caliper is a pretty simple device, and all there is to a rebuild kit is a couple of rubber seals and the metal/copper sealing rings for the hose attachment.

and all there is to a rebuild kit is a couple of rubber seals and the metal/copper sealing rings for the hose attachment.

For a rebuild, you also need a special tool to hone out the caliper bore. This is the 'cylinder' that the piston rides in.
Calipers almost always seize due to rust and debris in the bore. The caliper piston and cylinder must be rust-free and very smooth in order to work properly.
Sometimes bores are simply too rusty to repair with a hone, and/or pistons are too rusty to re-use. In this case, a new caliper is required.

Imho since your brakes, especially the front one, is a vital safety device, why not just get a new caliper (Honda dealers are usually pretty good at supplying parts for older models) or send your one out to be professionally rebuilt (if possible)?

Plus the two disc master cylinder has a larger bore and therefore more mechanical advantage, to compensate for two calipers....eliminating one would leave you with a very aggressive, grabby single disc system..

I've had many calipers seize on bikes. Often it's not the caliper itself but the pivot or slide mechanism. A caliper can't clamp the pads to the rotor effectively unless it is able to move on it's mount, unless it is a design with pistons on both sides of the rotor.

Take the calipers off (one at a time!), and have a look at the hardware that allows it to move. On both types (sliding or pivoting) there will usually be a bolt(s) that holds the caliper to the support, a sleeve around that bolt, and then that sleeve rests in a bore in the caliper, with o-rings to guide it. If the bolt and sleeve are corroded together, the caliper won't move when applied, and may drag. Often time they are so fused together, they get mistaken for one part. If really bad, they can't be saved..buy new ones. If lightly pitted and you can coax them apart, clean them up to where they can slide smoothly when fitted together and coat evenly with disc brake lube.

If the o-rings are shot or missing, the caliper will cock when applied, possibly making it bite hard and not want to release.

If the sliding hardware looks good, then you need to look at the caliper pistons themselves. Many times they will be so pitted with rust, they can't move smoothly. Occasionally they will be completely fused in place. I'd suggest replacing the caliper if this is the case...repairs never seem to work real good.

By pulling the dust boot back out of it's groove and away from the piston business end, you can see if the piston is pitted. Spraying the dust boot with WD-40 before trying to pull it back will lessen the chance of tearing it and make it easier to get it out of the groove in the piston...

This is where it gets a little tricky. In a pinch, I'll try this procedure...

Again, with one caliper at a time removed, pump the brake lever slowly in very short strokes to move the piston out of it's bore partially. Go too far, you'll pop it out of the caliper, and then you're done, screwed. You can get some idea of how much piston is in there by the depth of the caliper's bore....it will typically be 1/2-3/4 the depth of the caliper body....

Once you've pumped it out a bit, you'll be able to see the sides of the piston clearly. If they are pitted pretty good, spray with WD-40, letting it soak for a few minutes, then wipe it off with a good non-linting shop towel. Try to remove as much scale as possible while doing this.

Then use some very fine abrasive media to clean up the pistons...I've used both Crocus cloth or Never-Dull, both work well. If you use ND, wrap it around the piston, grasp it with you hand and twist back and forth pretty aggressively. Let it dry to a haze, then do it again. Each time it will get smoother....when it seems as good as it will get, wipe clean with a clean cloth, spray with WD-40 again to remove any residues, and wipe clean once more. Pull one side of the dust boot away from the piston and spray flush it out with WD, to remove any crud trapped in there. Pull the dust boot back into place and make sure it is seated correctly in the groove on the piston.

Now you have to push the piston back into the bore...this has to be done as straight as possible...if the piston cocks slightly it can gouge the bore and cause sticking, which is why we are doing this to begin with...so use a C-clamp and a piece of sturdy metal or an old brake pad against the piston face, don't try to squeeze it in with a pair of slip joint pliers or anything like that...those don't apply even, straight force.

Lube the caliper slides/pivots with disc brake lube, reassemble and make sure you pump the lever back up to seat the pads before trying to ride it...or you will have a brief crap your pants moment when you get to the end of the street and find you have no brakes until you pump it 6-8 times...:lol:...ask how I know...:banghead:

If the pistons were pitted, the brake fluid is no doubt horribly dirty and water contaminated. If your brakes seem to be working good now, don't wait to flush and bleed with new DOT4 (better than DOT3 and compatible with DOT3 systems) to get the trash, rust and old fluid out of those calipers, or they will just go bad again, and that crud will eventually ruin the master cylinder as well. DO NOT USE DOT5...silicone fluid, not compatible with other fluids and won't work in your bike.

This may work, or it may not. Or it may work for some time and then start binding again...some calipers are just too trashy and can't be saved this way...but it's worth a shot...has worked for me more often than not...

I know the guy that had the bike when the front brakes were working. He's in the family. He said he drained all the brake fluid out because he has a bad habbit of slamming on the front brakes and it almost threw him off once. He said before that, the calipers worked fine, so im guessing it's not much wrong with the calipers. The right side works fine though, it moves freely, but once you compres the brake then let off, the left side hangs, it wont release the brake. The air idea sounds like it would work, but i still dont see anywhere on the caliper where you can tear it apart.

Man I love taking the time to describe exactly how to go about something, so it can be ignored

:banghead:

That's what makes AF so much fun Larry.....:lol:

Man I love taking the time to describe exactly how to go about something, so it can be ignored

:banghead:


wasn't ignoring you, thats just to much mechanics for me to do. I was hoping for a way to tear it apart and do a quick clean and thats all!

That is a simple job. Just because I went into detail doesn't mean it's complicated...all you would basically do is remove the troubled caliper, don't even have to take the hose off. Pump the piston out enough to clean it, put the dust boot back in place and push the piston back in, then put the caliper back on the bike.

The rest was just detail. Takes maybe 30 minutes to do. No disassembly at all, except for removing the caliper from its mount....

If you want to try an ever cheaper and dirtier route, simply pull the caliper, pump the piston out a bit, stick the WD-40 stick under the dust boot, shoot a shot in there, and put it back on...I've done this on the road when a caliper on a bike I just bought started seizing on the ride home...got me home, and showed me that a more detailed cleaning would probably fix the problem permanently...

but you'll still have to verify the caliper can move on it's slide or pivot...regardless of what you do. If it can't move, all it will ever do is apply the piston side brake pad weakly...it won't have any stopping power, and will wear the one pad very fast...

That is a simple job. Just because I went into detail doesn't mean it's complicated...all you would basically do is remove the troubled caliper, don't even have to take the hose off. Pump the piston out enough to clean it, put the dust boot back in place and push the piston back in, then put the caliper back on the bike.

The rest was just detail. Takes maybe 30 minutes to do. No disassembly at all, except for removing the caliper from its mount....

If you want to try an ever cheaper and dirtier route, simply pull the caliper, pump the piston out a bit, stick the WD-40 stick under the dust boot, shoot a shot in there, and put it back on...I've done this on the road when a caliper on a bike I just bought started seizing on the ride home...got me home, and showed me that a more detailed cleaning would probably fix the problem permanently...

but you'll still have to verify the caliper can move on it's slide or pivot...regardless of what you do. If it can't move, all it will ever do is apply the piston side brake pad weakly...it won't have any stopping power, and will wear the one pad very fast...


Alright, well this was the problem i had with it. When i applied the brakes, one side stuck and kept the brakes on, that was the side i had removed. It took me forever to get the pistons to go back inside the brake housing (sorry i dont know the proper term). Thats why i thought i might need to take it apart and do the rebuild thing to it. So with that info, would you still suggest doing it like this, or doing a rebuild on it, or just getting another one?

Well since there is no bearing drift on a bike's wheel to push the pistons back after application, they use a "stroking seal" that deforms when the brake is applied, and in trying to go back into shape it pulls the piston back with it.

If it took extraordinary effort to push the pistons back into the bore,there may be too much damage to the piston skirts and bores and seals for any hope of an easy solution...

A rebuild or replacement is probably going to be the answer. I'd still give my method a shot, all you'd be out is little grease and a can of WD-40, which you probably already have. If it doesn't work, nothing lost but a little time.

Did you ever examine the sliding hardware? Does this caliper only have pistons on one side, or both sides of the rotor?

Finally, it's not a floating rotor design, is it? I'd doubt it, I don't think they were using those that early on street bikes...

http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/showschematic/m2753sch11083

Never mind...looked it up. Dual piston, sliding type. Make sure the sliding hardware isn't crapped up with corrosion or bent while you have it off...

http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/showschematic/m2753sch11083

Never mind...looked it up. Dual piston, sliding type. Make sure the sliding hardware isn't crapped up with corrosion or bent while you have it off...


ok, i'll give this a try..i know this is an automotive forum, but i was wondering if you or someone else in here could help with a riding mower problem. If so, here's my problem. I turn my key to try to crank it, but nothing. I have to start it by touching both ends on my solenoid. People say most solenoids are bad when they click, but mine doesn't click, so could it be that it's not getting the right power to it? I was thinking some wire might be bad, but if it starts off the solenoid, does that mean the wires from my ignition are good? Solenoid was replaced a few years ago, but did not help.

Your ignition switch or the wiring from it to the solenoid is bad...crossing the terminals on the solenoid to start it is doing the same thing the ignition switch does when it's contacts close, but for whatever reason the circuit is not completing.

You can unplug the wiring from the ignition switch and try shorting across the wiring terminals there (assuming it's a simple two wire ignition switch) and see if it cranks the starter like it should. If so, the switch is bad. If not, the wiring is probably broken somewhere along the way...

ok, i'll give this a try..i know this is an automotive forum, but i was wondering if you or someone else in here could help with a riding mower problem. If so, here's my problem. I turn my key to try to crank it, but nothing. I have to start it by touching both ends on my solenoid. People say most solenoids are bad when they click, but mine doesn't click, so could it be that it's not getting the right power to it? I was thinking some wire might be bad, but if it starts off the solenoid, does that mean the wires from my ignition are good? Solenoid was replaced a few years ago, but did not help.

You may have a bad ignition switch or safety related switch. You need to check for voltage while the key is in the start position at the small terminal on the solenoid marked "S". If no voltage is present, then either the ignition switch is bad, or some safety interlock that prevents the engine from being started is bad. Many tractors have safety switches hooked to the seat, clutch, parking brake, deck engagement lever, etc... that prevent the starter from turning over if there is no rider in the seat, the mower deck is engaged, the brake isn't set, etc... This is so stupid people don't kill themselves or the neighbors cat by trying to start a tractor in gear with the deck engaged while not in the seat.

You may have a bad ignition switch or safety related switch. You need to check for voltage while the key is in the start position at the small terminal on the solenoid marked "S". If no voltage is present, then either the ignition switch is bad, or some safety interlock that prevents the engine from being started is bad. Many tractors have safety switches hooked to the seat, clutch, parking brake, deck engagement lever, etc... that prevent the starter from turning over if there is no rider in the seat, the mower deck is engaged, the brake isn't set, etc... This is so stupid people don't kill themselves or the neighbors cat by trying to start a tractor in gear with the deck engaged while not in the seat.


I have set my safety switch on the back where i can start the mower without being on the seat. My engage lever is up and i have it in netural. I have to turn the key position to on to be able to start it off the solenoid, as it wont start if the key is not in the on position. I have 2 terminals on the solenoid, which one has an orange wire on it, but the other has nothing. I dont see any loose wires under there that are missing. Here are a few pics so you guys can point out what i need to do. O, i didnt see anything marked by an "S". They had a little rust under there. Its an older mower. Thanks for all the help!

The yellow wire that is hooked to the small terminal in the front of the picture should be the signal wire from the ignition switch. It should have power when the ignition switch is in the start postion only. If it doesn't, then the ignition switch is faulty.

The yellow wire that is hooked to the small terminal in the front of the picture should be the signal wire from the ignition switch. It should have power when the ignition switch is in the start postion only. If it doesn't, then the ignition switch is faulty.


Ok, im going to check the wire tommorow, but lets say the switch is good and a safety switch is bad. How do i disable the safety switches? On the seat, i took a piece of metal and its holding down, but i didnt know if there were wires i could connect together.