Neds getting Link!!!

That's right!1! Shipping my ECU tomorrow to ECMtuning, I am so excited.

Also, this may sound like a stupid question but the cable I get from them connects to the OBD1 port right?

Yes, that is correct.

best decision car wise youcan make.!

I need to do a serious tune to resolve this fuel cut issue. I've never messed w/ any kind of tuning so I'm just jumping right in. I'm sure I will have lots of questions.

You'll need to do a ton of reading on the ECMtuning website. They've got some great articles on there to learn from.

I've been looking around there site quite a bit today.

dsmlink chip automatically removes the 3.1g/rev fuel limiter~

That's good to know. There's a couple things that are pretty cool too like the studderbox option, that's something I really want for the track. Does Tim on here have Link? He's the closest to me if I need help w/ it.

Actually the ECU imposes fuel cut at 2.55g/rev not 3.1g/rev. :)

bring it to the meet we'll do some tuning do you got a wb?

No but it wouldn't be a bad idea to get that too

will make tuning soo much easier

Whats the cheapest yet reliable wide band set up on the market right now?

plx or aem uego if you want gauge type. I love my aem it logs the data right into link which is extremely helpful.

The AEM is what I run, but be aware that the correlation between what is displayed on the gauge and what is logged by DSMLink is different. Typically deviation is about 0.3 AFR points between logged and actual AFR. There are different options in the DSMLink software, such as AEMWideBand, AEMWideBand1, etc. Most guys find that the DynoJetWB has the best correlation, but with mine AEMWideBand1 seems to work the best.

So although it's a nice cheap WBO2, you'll have to play with it a little bit to get it right.

MY BEST reading is aemwbgauge and its to .1

So he's already installed the chip including the non-eprom conversion and has shipped it back out already. Scheduled delivery via UPS is Monday...I have off Tuesday!!! I can't wait. Now I have never tuned any thing before so when it comes to tuning...what do I tune? Do I tune so I gain more performance or to just make it run better? What do I adjust to make it run/perform better?

haha generally performance and functionality go hand in hand.

first thing you should do is do an idle log. I'll tell you what to look for or post up your log when you got a chance.

I've had a shitty idle surge for a long time and I can't seem to cure it. I'm hoping that maybe I can figure it out w/ link

I'm looking at about $200 for the wideband UEGO. Can't quite swing that right now...someday soon tho.


Link will be here tomorrow!!!

Link has arrived!!! I'm going to install the ECU in about 40 minutes and I should be able to upload my first log on here later on tonight.

wont be able to upload it unless you host it on box.net

Postponed till tomorrow morning.

Here's a post at idle, notice throttle position? is the throttle cable too tight maybe? Also the O2 reading keeps rising and falling. Idle is adjusting 500 rpms and the O2 reading goes as high as about .85v and A/F ratio dips down to about 12.5:1...Then idle drops 500 rpms and O2 goes down to about .12 and ratio rises back to 14.7ish.

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c208/ned032002/link1.jpg

Here's a post at idle, notice throttle position? is the throttle cable too tight maybe? Also the O2 reading keeps rising and falling. Idle is adjusting 500 rpms and the O2 reading goes as high as about .85v and A/F ratio dips down to about 12.5:1...Then idle drops 500 rpms and O2 goes down to about .12 and ratio rises back to 14.7ish.

Can you post the log somewhere? We really can't help you with just a screenshot. There is just too much information missing.

Where can I do that?

Try that.

http://www.box.net/shared/c9es2931a2

I think most people use www.rapidshare.com

That works. Is your mod list up to date and complete? Also, is your 1g automatic or manual?

Manual, Im pretty sure my list is up to date.

Alright, I just wanted to make sure we were dealing with stock injectors. What you need to do first is get closed loop operation set up and then deal with open loop. You'll need to add some captured values to the list so we can get things rolling.

You'll want to add MAFRaw, CombinedFT, AirflowPerRev and it might be a good idea to add all the FT's. Then get a log at idle, maybe one or two minutes. After that, go for a nice cruise keeping the ECU in closed loop. Then back to the house for another minute or two at idle and then post that up.

Make sure that the car is warmed up before you start the process. I would also drop your knock CEL down to a degree or two. Right now it's set at 5 degrees and you were knocking pretty hard during your pull.

Oh, and you've done all the pre-tuning stuff like plugs, wires (if needed), boost leak test, etc?

Alright, I just wanted to make sure we were dealing with stock injectors. What you need to do first is get closed loop operation set up and then deal with open loop. You'll need to add some captured values to the list so we can get things rolling.

You'll want to add MAFRaw, CombinedFT, AirflowPerRev and it might be a good idea to add all the FT's. Then get a log at idle, maybe one or two minutes. After that, go for a nice cruise keeping the ECU in closed loop. Then back to the house for another minute or two at idle and then post that up. Make sure that the car is warmed up before you start the process.

I will do this within the next half hour

I would also drop your knock CEL down to a degree or two. Right now it's set at 5 degrees and you were knocking pretty hard during your pull.

How do I do this?

Oh, and you've done all the pre-tuning stuff like plugs, wires (if needed), boost leak test, etc?

I already replaced plugs, wires, and fixed all my boost leaks in my intake. and yes stock injectors

Here it is
http://www.box.net/shared/65epuqrh2p

What does the CEL mean at random times while driving?

The CEL is signify to you that you are knocking. And looking at your log its pretty bad. Over 5.6 degrees some times and explodes up to 15 :O degrees thats massive. Something is seriously wrong hopefully jsut a malfunctioning knock sensor or phantom knock cause that shit is retarded (no pun intended)

your airflow gm/rev is also low which does indicate a boost leak.

the coolant temps are pretty high after your cruise 206 degrees and your intake temps are scorching 134. Don't worry about the 1% throttle thats nothing. your front o2 is operating properly but your condtions seem awfully rich and your LTFT is pegged.

Alright, then what do I need to do 1st?

Could a hole in the recirc. hose cause the fluctuation in the reading?

Ah, crap. I forgot one. Can you do the same thing again, but add ClosedLoop to the log. Sorry about that. Without that value, I can't run the MAF Adj function.

AFRatioEst is also way off, so there is something else wrong. How high did you pressurize the system during the boost leak test and how long did it take to bleed down? Have you ever checked your knock sensor for the infamous "goo leakage"? I'm thinking you might be running into some phantom knock since it's showing up at TPS values below 30%.

Ah, crap. I forgot one. Can you do the same thing again, but add ClosedLoop to the log. Sorry about that. Without that value, I can't run the MAF Adj function.

I can't right now because my wife just left for work so I can't do any test runs right now.

AFRatioEst is also way off, so there is something else wrong. How high did you pressurize the system during the boost leak test and how long did it take to bleed down? Have you ever checked your knock sensor for the infamous "goo leakage"? I'm thinking you might be running into some phantom knock since it's showing up at TPS values below 30%.

How do I check for "goo leakage"? I used a boost leak tester I bought off ebay, it looks similar to this just w/ a hose on it is what mine looks like it. I kind of cobbled the recirc. hose, could this be the issue?

the knock sensor is located on the back part of the engine just below the intake manifold. If there is black goo leaking out or dripping or whatever you want to call it. Time to replace that knock sensor. With the amount of timing your car is pulling I'm surprised you're making any power at all. It will run so much better when you get this knock issue straightened away.

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j294/steviekallday/Picture016.jpg

see it there

Kind of a shitty spot huh? lol

I just did another boost leak test and to my surprise my MBC was leaking like a SOB. I scored it from a friend and didn't think much of the hole but holy crap it was blowing air like hell. After I eliminated it, I had NO other leaks. Once my wife gets home then I will do another run including closed loop as a displayed factor.
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c208/ned032002/0609091705.jpg


Talked to the guy I bought the car from, said he already replaced the knock sensor and I just went out and felt the outside exposed side and it didn't feel gooey.

well thats good you found the boost leak. There def was one. This knock issue is going to be tough then.

I noticed that my A/F ratio was around 9 somthing when I was getting higher up in the RPMS...is that normal? That means it's burning rich right? How could you tell looking at the graph that I had a leak somewhere? I want to learn all this so please no flaming even for a dumb question.

The airflow gm/rev was low at idle indicating a boost leak. The af is way too low at WOT but don't put too much faith in the dsmlink estimates they are noramlly close but not exact. The wideband is the way to go in that regards. Check my A/f thread in tech articles to see where to aim for.

What is the next thing I should look into for this knock issue? Is the air just not getting cooled enough? What do I have to tune? I haven't adjusted anything yet? Also what can I do about lowering my idle? Also I read that a 1G A/F ratio should be 14.7:1, according to your A/F thread knock is reduced by burning richer. Should I lower my ratio or leave it as it is?

What is the next thing I should look into for this knock issue? Is the air just not getting cooled enough? What do I have to tune? I haven't adjusted anything yet? Also what can I do about lowering my idle? Also I read that a 1G A/F ratio should be 14.7:1, according to your A/F thread knock is reduced by burning richer. Should I lower my ratio or leave it as it is?

Right now you are running too rich which can also cause knock. The idling at 14.7 is a great start. The air that is coming into your intake is air that has been heated by your engine so that is why your Intake temps are so High. The best way to reduce those temps is to dam off the intake so the heated air from engine doesn't enter.

are you on stock injectors fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator?

Yes I am, I've seen a few pics of other guys dameing off there intake but is there a risk of cutting off air flow all together?

not really. none that I've ever heard of. are you running stock fuel pressure? You're going to need to lean it out a bit I would subtract a few global percentages (5%) and see how that affects your estimates. But don't go off them verbatim they are just estimates we are going to have to get a wb soon.

New log
http://www.box.net/shared/yk83jskjx4

I made an airbox out of card board just to see if I would see a difference.
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c208/ned032002/0609092040.jpg

Now on my way home I noticed that my lights were dim, i dont know what the problem is but just before I pulled into the driveway my ABS light came on so I'm guess either the battery or alternator is shitting out again.

yea sounds like your battery is weak

See that 30 degrees cooler isn't that sweet!

now we gotta figure out whats causign that phantom knock.

It was pretty cold outside but I'm sure it's pretty accurate. How do I look for the cause of this phantom knock?

I just replaced the battery and alternator last July, like 2k miles ago

I just did another boost leak test and to my surprise my MBC was leaking like a SOB. I scored it from a friend and didn't think much of the hole but holy crap it was blowing air like hell. After I eliminated it, I had NO other leaks.

You know that hole is supposed to be there right? It's a vent hole so that pressure doesn't get trapped between the MBC and the wastegate causing the flapper to stay open. All MBC's of that design have one.

AFRatioEst is still way off and indicates some type of metering problem. You have to be leaking somewhere or have some type of fuel delivery problem. I'm not so sure that's phantom knock. I saw a couple places where your IDC hit 100+%.

Have you checked base timing? What plugs are you running and what did you gap them to?

Low g/rev does not indicate a boost leak. The MBC hole is not a boost leak as it needs to be taken out of line when leak testing. 206* is a bit warm, but nothing that will cause the car to pull timing. That starts at 210* IIRC.

My low g/rev is partially due to my valve cover being vented. I BLT'd my car to 25 psi without even a hiss, FWIW.

100%IDC = turn the boost down or upgrade injectors.

Ignore the phantom knock. Set the knock CEL threshold to 30% throttle and 3000rpms. If your knock CEL comes on after that, then begin to look for a fix.

Your MAF needs adjusting...see the suggested CombinedFT values attached.

Adjust mine to where the white dots are?

I'm running NGK 6s, can't remember what I gap'd them at. I don't have a problem replacing them again, I put them in almost 2 years ago but they only have 4.5k on them but it still wouldn't hurt.

What does IDC stand for?

Injector duty cycle the percentage of flow your injectors are running at

O IC, so the injectors are getting maxed out for sure.

The MBC hole is not a boost leak as it needs to be taken out of line when leak testing.

So when installed, it is not actually a boost leak? Cause that's the only "leak" I had then.

206* is a bit warm, but nothing that will cause the car to pull timing. That starts at 210* IIRC.

Lower temp thermostat, is that what I should look into?

Also, my Turbo Timer isn't working anymore since Link was installed.