Trailblazer Rough Idle


bootleg233
05-31-2009, 08:29 AM
Ok IT IS NOW FIXED WOOHOO!!!!!!!!!!
My brother-in-law brought me his 2004 Trailblazer that had an extremely rough idle and would die if ya thought about the air conditioner and all! So he had replaced the cam sensor DIDNT HELP, he replaced the spark plugs DIDNT HELP, he replaced the fuel filter DIDNT HELP, so he asked me about it says alot of people are having a rough idle problem so after more searching on the problem I ran across a fella talking about the CAM ACTUATOR SOLENOID and explained all about what to look for and such and low and behold new solenoid later purrrrrs like a new one!!! In case anyone wonders where it is look right above the power steering pump there is a plug in the side of the engine there with electric wires running to it. One of the signs of being bad is oil inside that 2 wire plug just pull it off and look in it. Now to remove it you will have to take the power steering pump loose so it will move back out of the way so you can pull the solenoid out of the engine if ya get it out look on the end there are grooves running around it with little screens on them see if any are gone or coming apart, this usally sets a P0016 code which is stuff interfering with the sensors inside. If there is any oil in the plug or any screens missing then it will have to be replaced, if you are experiencing a rough idle but runs fine usally otherwise then 9 out of 10 this is your problem expecially after pulling all your hair out and replacing half the engine....LOL well good luck L8terrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

Jethro
05-31-2009, 08:33 AM
curious to know if it would have been cheaper to bring to the dealer for repairs.

GMMerlin
05-31-2009, 10:23 AM
curious to know if it would have been cheaper to bring to the dealer for repairs.
:sarcasmsign:

Come on now, you know better than that..why spend 80 bucks to have the dealer or other professional diagnose the problem and then fix it, when you can spend days and weeks and lots of money putting parts on it you didn't need until you finally get lucky and back into what was causing the problem to begin with:rofl:
Remember the DIY rule of thumb...avoid professional intervention..keep throwing parts at it until one of three things happen
1. you give up and live with it
2. you run out of money
3. you throw enough parts at it until you accidently fix it.


By the way, congratulations that you finally got the problem corrected

bootleg233
05-31-2009, 09:55 PM
Would dealer of been cheaper LOLOLOLOL.............thats my answer! The Dealer part was $90.65 and 15 minutes to put it in.............................The Dealer scanning it Lets say $100-150 and maybe luck up on what it was oh Plus labor @ $75 an hr. then taking it back because they replaced a part that they charged ya 4x the price on and sorry it wasnt the problem but it was "..showing us it was bad hmmmm.." then they will try and say well our master mechanic will look at it and that shouldnt take more than say the rest of the day before he has the time..then so on and so on so on so on.....NAH I Dont do Dealers I will research what the problem is and work on it and solve it myself like I told him just because it says so and so sensor is bad dont mean it is just means something has set off that sensor but anyways enough rambling it is fixed now just wanted to let people know what it was on this one so might be something they want to check into when all else has failed so good luck peoples!!!!!!!!!!

islandlife
06-03-2009, 02:05 AM
Thank you very much bootleg. I am not sure if we are having the same symptoms but my car is running terrible and i did take mine to the dealer. They had no clue what is wrong with it but they were willing to throw parts at it and guess, only difference is that they could not fix it but charged me anyways. Lots and lots of money. I, myself will try your solution and see if that fix my problem. The dealers are good for some things but you have to have large pockets to make it work. They told me they have no clue why my car is stalling, so they recommend guess work and parts or leave it til it dies for good. Well thats not good enough for me since my wife and 4 kids use that car as the primary transport. I heard everything from cam sensor to throttle body to clutch fan to ignition switch and trust me i did replace them all, not clean but replace. So thanks again and i'll let you know if that solution was the right one for me.

stillwell
10-20-2010, 06:55 PM
Hey man do you happen to know the part ## for that?it took it out an it has oil in plug in an dirty screens.they tell me its a cam psition sensor but no acuatoer sylinoid thing??HELP!:banghead:

maxwedge
10-20-2010, 07:35 PM
It is a cam position solenoid not sensor.

ghostridermc1
05-16-2012, 10:32 AM
I was having the same exact problem (rough idle but nice and smooth once I accelerated). I went to auto zone to see if it was a misfire but the scanner returned P0014 which could have been multiple things but the guy at the counter said most common is the cam position sensor. I replaced and it did not correct the problem. After researching I found this thread and my gut told me to try Cam actuator but because it was not easy I took to another mechanic (friend of my dad's) who put it on the scanner and said it was the plugs, although there was not any code indicating the problem. My heart told me this would not fix it but I replaced the plugs anyway and guess what? No FIX!!! Went to O'reilly's and they pulled up P1345/P0105 which pointd toward MAP,Crankshaft sensor, and cam actuator. Again due to ease/cost did crankshaft sensor (no fix) and MAP sensor (no fix). At this point I had no choice but to check the actuator and of course it was missing one of the screens (see attachments). Fortunately O'reilly's had the part (only 2 available in my area). As you can imagine I replaced part and it purrs like a kitten!!! I would also like to add although the manual calls it a Camshaft Actuator Solenoid it is sold at the auto parts store as a "Variable Valve Timing Solenoid".
Moral of the story? Even if it is a little more difficult take the time to go with your gut. It would have saved me over $150. Also, use the internet because overall it has saved me hundreds of $$$ being able to fix myself. :smile:

bootleg233
05-16-2012, 12:20 PM
Great to hear ya fixed it!! This is the problem for so many its crazy!

blazerman47
08-19-2012, 11:48 AM
Got a 98 blazer, idles rough, but runs fine while driving. Now she will stumble or stall at highway speeds.. been told to clean out screen on cam sensor, part has no screen. Need help before I throw parts and money.

maxwedge
08-19-2012, 07:31 PM
This forum is for the large size 4.2l Trailblazer, is this what you have?

blazerman47
08-19-2012, 08:20 PM
Got a 4.3 vortec, 4x4. Rough idle when it warms up or at a stop. Cruises with little issue until she stalled at 70 mph. Restarted and still rough idle. People told me to clean out a sensor with a screen attached. Have not found that screened device. I hear cam sensor, cam actuaator and so on. Very confused. Anyone help?

maxwedge
08-20-2012, 08:44 AM
None of those exist on this truck you need further diagnosis, low fuel pressure, engine misfire, do a full scan first, check fuel pressure also.

trailblazer7
01-01-2013, 03:59 AM
hello, i have 07 trlblzr. a week ago the engine light came on. checked it at autozone. code p0506 came out,which is lower idle than expected range. i went on line and looked and searched around. there is a lot of ideas out there. my truck runs fine .idle is 550 when engine been running for while , 8-900 when just start when cold. but when idling, i hit the window switch, idle falls to 500 rpm. i can feel the truck struggling. the truck had these signs but no engine light came on until along trip up north(8 hours) up and (8) down. after got back the next morning truck ran harsh,heavy feel like . an oil change fixed the harsh feel but the rest still apply. the rpm fall is not just window switch,its any switch than put more work in the engine. i have a feeling the problem is electrical connection to IAC valve . if anyone had same problem and managed to fix please let me know, it will help a lot,thank you.

maxwedge
01-01-2013, 10:21 AM
Welcome to AF, I would suggest that in the future you start a new thread, anyway, I would clean the throttle body thoroughly and see what happens from there.

Jesus Gods Son
11-22-2014, 02:24 PM
The variable valve timing (http://repairpal.com/variable-valve-timing-system) camshaft actuators may stick due to dirty engine oil or a faulty control solenoid. A sticking actuator may cause a rough idle and the Check Engine Light (http://repairpal.com/understanding-the-check-engine-light) to illuminate. Our technicians tell us the engine oil should be checked to make sure it is clean and at the proper level before replacing any parts to correct this concern

The cam actuator solenoid is located on the passenger side front of the engine, These are common
to fail and cause a check engine light code P0014 or P0016. When they fail, it causes a correlation
code between it and the crank sensor. To remove the cam actuator solenoid, you will have to
remove the drive belt and the either remove the power steering pump, or at least loosen it enough to
slide it out of the way far enough for the cam sensor to clear the steering pump cap. Then it is just a
10mm bolt that holds it in. Wiggle it and slide it out, then install the new one.
After these repair, a "Cam / Crank correlation relearn" will need to be done. A high quality scan tool
will be needed to do this properly. Some people have other ways to do it like letting it idle for a few
minutes, or driving on the highway for 10 miles.

Part...... http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/MC/3689-07079786.html?utm_content=MC&utm_term=2002-2009+Chevrolet+Trailblazer+Variable+Timing+Solenoi d+Dorman+917-010+02-09+Chevrolet+Variable+Timing+Solenoid+2007+2006&fp=pp&gbm=a&utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base&gclid=CjwKEAiAhcGjBRDot_fjjtPKrgsSJACNYh7656NNwpPN rvEnQVwaJWRT-gfnzVg7gw4md9BStCwDfhoCAd_w_wcB

Schurkey
11-23-2014, 03:36 AM
I had no choice but to check the actuator and of course it was missing one of the screens (see attachments).
While I recognize that this thread is a zombie, I have to ask:

WHERE DO THE "MISSING" SCREENS GO? How do you remove them--or do they just blow down the oil passage until they block a lifter, damage a bearing/journal, or restrict some oil gallery?

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